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Posted: 1/15/2019 5:36:37 PM EDT
Hello; I recently picked up a Traditions Hawken Woodsman percussion replica that was used and today was the first range trip and the rifle would not fire (first step into muzzle loading). I did fire off a cap prior to loading and the cap did not pop on the first hammer strike, on the second it did, it just smushed it down a bit on the first strike. I was using CCI no.11 caps, they did not seem to seat all the way down on the nipple. After loading with pyrodex, a patch, and a ball, the cap would pop but no ignition, I tried a few more caps with the same result and some not popping until the second hammer strike. I did clean the rifle prior to the range trip and the communication hole and nipple were clear and passing air. When I got home I burned a bit of the powder and it lit but with a bit more effort than I would think, the powder came with the gun.

The only thing I can think of is the wrong number cap or bad powder? I feel like the cap should go flush to the top of the nipple and the no.11 seemed to ride high on the nipple, any advice would be great. Thank you all, this place is a wealth of knowledge for a new guy.
Link Posted: 1/15/2019 5:52:08 PM EDT
[#1]
I am much more familiar with TC and Knight in line muskets running 209 primers but I do use a cap and ball revolver.  The first thing you want to do is consult the manufacturer to determine what the correct cap is and if you have any choices for ignition.
While you may have gotten some powder with it you don't know the history of it so buy some new powder.  It would seem to be fairly straight forward  hammer strikes cap or primer which ignites powder resulting in success. Its not always a perfect system because it is exposed to the elements.  The flash hole can become clogged and a wire small enough to clean it with is something you want to carry. Because it is important for the ball or sabbot to be seated at the same depth every time to achieve accuracy I run a wet patch down the bore after every shot then a dry patch then reload.   As far as the initial strike of the hammer not causing the cap to fire there are a couple of possible problems. too light of a spring on the hammer, the wrong size or type of cap or wet or damaged caps.  I find using the 209 primer with an in line musket like a TC Omega or TC Encore preferable.  I have had to change out the nipples on the black powder pistol and it is possible that if someone dry fired your rifle the nipple could  have been beaten down and not be tall enough requiring you to replace the nipple.   Hope that helps.

call them
Traditions Firearms
Tel. 860-388-4656
Link Posted: 1/15/2019 6:32:27 PM EDT
[#2]
If CCI percussion caps are not going down flush on the nipple, try some RWS or Remington caps.

I normally remove my nipple after firing, soak it in the hot water detergent mix you're going to be using to clean the barrel, then a pipe cleaner after soak.  I also carry spare nipples and a wrench when I go out shooting.

As far as Pyrodex, I've never used it, but if you got it with the rifle, unless it was sealed it could be suspect, I prefer 3f goex in my .54 Lyman GPR.
Link Posted: 1/15/2019 8:39:39 PM EDT
[#3]
Get a pinch of black powder, remove the nipple, put BP in the hole and reinstall the nipple. Cap and fire. Pyrodex is very hygroscopic and it doesn't take much exposure to humidity to spoil it. I converted my CVA Mountain rifle to use small rifle primers because of frustration with pyrodex.
Link Posted: 1/15/2019 9:00:45 PM EDT
[#4]
It is possible that someone has put a musket cap nipple on it trying to get better ignition.
Link Posted: 2/10/2019 12:16:29 AM EDT
[#5]
Another vote for Fffg.  BP substitutes can be hard to ignite.

Before loading, dry patch the bore.  Point the muzzle toward the ground and pop three caps.  You want to see it obviously blow grass or leaves to assure the ignition path is clear.

Your first hammer strike is seating the cap.  The second strike gets ignition.  When seating a primer, set cap on nipple, push hard with thumb to seat.  Carefully lower hammer to rest on cap.  Push hammer forward attempting to fully seat cap.    That might correct ignition problems.

You may need to remove the nipple and sand it with very fine emery cloth to remove enough material to allow the cap to seat easily.  Go slow.  Test frequently.

A fine piece of wire to clear your flash hole should be part of your kit.

Clean the old school way with hot soapy water.  Or Windex with vinegar.  Spark plug anti-seize for breach plug, drum and nipple threads.  Cut up blue paper (shop towels) for cleaning.  Pillow ticking for ball patches,

have fun.  Don't inhale the smoke.  Can cause addiction.
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