Didn't want to play wait and see with sleepy Joe and Komrade Kamala coming into office so I decided to splurge on another AUG.  I sold my old one back in March or April to free up some funds for some other things.  I loved that gun a ton.  With the current political climate I didn't want to wait and am selling a few manually operated firearms to get some more semi-autos since I don't have any fears of bolt actions or lever actions getting banned anytime soon.

Was trying to find a good price for a AUG and found a NIB, Black NATO model for $1,750 so I jumped on it.  I feel like that is a pretty solid price in the current climate we find ourselves in.  Now I just need an optic and some irons for it.  Already bought 5 more mags for it, too.

Congrats on the new AUG. One day when things calm down I'd like to find a black NATO stock.

For anyone who thinks they want an AUG or another AUG but can't spend the ~$2k to buy right now, check out the $850 blem receiver groups.

What optic are you going with? I am struggling heavily to choose. I can’t decide t2/magnifier, elcan1-4, lpvo, acog w/rmr ... it’s too hard

I feel like the length off the gun dictates it needs to be good at cqb, which means red dot, but the length of the barrel means it needs to be good at moderate distance (lpvo), but in my eyes it’s ultimately about looks (seeing as I’m mounting mine on the wall)

Find a talon mount and use a 30mm lpvo.

Interesting. I just damn near settled on an Acog TA110 (led) // RM06 combo.

That’s an accupower? Would be same cost as acog. Do you have any issues indoors, for example? Like <15 yards?

I have astigmatism so red dots are kind of a no-go for me.  I haven't tried any holo sights yet to see how they work.  I usually stick to LPVOs.

My last AUG was like Maleante's where I had a Trijicon AccuPower on it.  I may just run the same setup again.  I like the Burris RT-6, too, so I may consider throwing one of those on it.

Yes, it’s an accupower. I have a meopta kdot that I moved around on some different AUGs, and even though the accupower glass is noticeably inferior to the kdot, I prefer the reticle and overall size of the trijicon. Meopta has a new optika6 line of scopes with a 1-6x offering that’s relatively inexpensive. I may try one out in the near future. I like meopta glass. It’s a solid product at a reasonable price point.

I haven’t noticed anything out of the ordinary with lpvo’s up close and indoors. Works well for me.

EuroOptic has a Gen 1 Viper PS-T for $299, so I ended up going with that and will be throwing that on the AUG.  Then I got some Magpul MBUS for BUIS.

I put a Burris RT3 on my AUG, I like it.

@maleante

Does VLTOR still make the receivers for Steyr USA or are they made in-house now?  I know the receivers used to be marked VLTOR on them but I don't see anything on mine.  It's a 2020 manufactured rifle.

Here it finally is.  Was waiting to post pics until I had the entire setup completed.  I honestly like the look of the black AUG more than the ODG one I used to have.  I'm not sure why but the black just looks more badass.

I'm jealous. I've always wanted one.  Where did you get it?

As far as I know, yes-ish. They were supposed to move receiver production over to Alabama like they did with the barrels, but I don't know if they've done so yet. I'll see what I can find out...

Flip your receiver upside down, take a pic, and post it here.

Got it from a guy on Armslist.  I don't trust most sellers on there aside from the ones marked as Premium Vendors, which he was.  He was selling them for $1,750.  




Here's the underside of my receiver

That's a new cast receiver. I'm guessing here, but with Vltor only making the receivers from forgings and milling everything on it, if Steyr doesn't have that capability, then it would make sense that they would revert to what they already know how to do. That is, machine M1 receivers out of the cast A2 style raw castings. Though there's no way to know unless Steyr confirms it.

Thanks!  As always I appreciate the information you provide.  I didn't realize the Austrian receivers were actually cast aluminum until after you mentioned mine was cast.  I went off and did some reading afterwards.  I always assumed they were forged steel for some reason.

@maleante

So I got a Steyr 1.5x optic and plan to remove the rail and throw the 1.5 on it as I like the classic look and I am not a fan of the SFP Viper I have on it now (don't care for SFP optics, prefer FFP or FP).

How hard is it to remove the rail and add the optic?  I saw one guy on YouTube say this is an armorers job because you can easily screw the receiver up doing this and that the screws on the receiver that hold the rail/optic use blue loctite and you need to heat to loosen them.  

But after that I saw a bunch of people online saying it is simple to do.  And in my own experience with stuff having blue loctite it is not hard to remove the screws, so this seems way simpler than the guy on YT was making it sound.  I'm not sure if the guy in question above was just confusing blue loctite with red or what was going on.  Just wanted to check with you since you know your stuff before I proceed with this and just see if there's anything I need to be careful of.

Removing the rail is pretty easy, don't sweat it. The only thing I've heard that should be done by a professional is removing the flash hider on the barrel.

Not hard at all, just exercise some caution because the bolts thread directly into the aluminum rail or optic housing (no steel inserts/bushings).

For perspective, anyone can be an AUG armorer for the low price of $600. You don't need to have a certificate to perform any of the maintenance tasks that the armorers course covers if you are mechanically inclined and have common sense. The below is a page from a much more detailed manual than what the new armorers course gives out... you'll note that the procedure includes heating up the bolts and applying blue loctite on the reinstall. From experience, Steyr in Alabama does not always use loctite on the bolts holding the attachments to the receiver and the thread locking compound that is sometimes used is very weak and can be loosened with light to moderate force. You'll also note that there is no torque spec. I asked Herbert, who is Alabama's AUG gunsmith and worked for Steyr in Austria prior to that, if there is a torque spec because it isn't listed in the manual. His response, "gutentite" i.e. tighten the bolts but don't go crazy on it.

My method is the following:

Remove the three bolts from the underside of the gun. Most commonly they are 4mm hex, with very recent guns using T30 torx instead. I like to use a socket and wrench to loosen and tighten, rather than a T handle or L key.

Remove the rail or optic housing.

Clean the threads.

Attach the rail or optic housing.

Apply a small amount of blue loctite to the bolts.

Thread in the bolts.

Use the socket and wrench to tighten until contact. Then while gripping the mechanism head of the wrench (to limit force) I will give it a 1/8 - 1/4 turn twist (with my wrist only, not arm strength) to tighten everything up but not overdo it. Do the same to all three bolts. Don't go crazy on it.


I've done the above on many AUGs and have not had any issues with stripping out threads, bolts loosening under use, or subsequent removal with the blue loctite applied. In the past I did use a torch to heat the bolts, but after removing a few and finding little or no loctite compound, I don't recommend or do so any longer.

Even then, the right tools will get it done. It's not something to be afraid of if you're mechanically inclined and have the proper width wrenches. I've encountered some that made me cuss due to the 14 gallons of red loctite applied, others that loosened with ease, and one that I could not under any method remove. That barrel I sent to Pete as he has a fixture to get them off...

Awesome, as always your knowledge is much appreciated!

Thanks to both of you!

@zeebz

Welcome! I made a mistake when I typed this up. I meant 1/8 - 1/4 turn, not inch. Already updated it with the correct info.

Thank you for clarifying!  Again, your information is always greatly appreciated.  I'll post pics once I get the optic on.

ETA: Got two of the bolts out.  My socket set has a T30 Torx bit so it was easy to do.  I do need to run to the store and get an extended T30 Torx bit, though, as I can't get the third one out because the hole you have to get through to it is too narrow and the control ring on my Torx bit hits it.

What is the height like on that extended rail? Does it seem to work with standard AR height mounts or do you feel like you still have to scrunch down? I have that issue with my Tavor but I've been thinking now is the time to add an AUG.

I think it works pretty well for AR height mounts.  I've let some others shoot my last AUG which also had the extended rail and everyone always talked about how comfortable the gun was to shoot including bringing the scope up to the eye and getting a good sight picture.  The only issue I had with the extended rail is I have large hands and I've skinned my knuckles on the rail pretty good a few times.  I basically learned after donating some DNA to the gun that the proper way to charge it is with your palm facing up.

I really like the Steyr optic on it, and the glass is surprisingly really good!

Removing the rail and changing the optic was a piece of cake.  As you said, Mal, not much force was needed to remove the Torx heads.  Really don't know what the dude on YT who was a supposed Steyr armorer was talking about when he said you needed to heat them up to loosen them.

Now I'll probably throw the extended rail up on the EE or something.

I think I found the same guy you did but he doesn't have any more. :(

Was he located in Florida?  If so it's probably him.  Did he say if he was getting any in?  PM me if you want and if it isn't the same guy I can give you the information of the guy I got mine from.  I think he's a Steyr certified dealer (if that's a thing?) as he sounds like he gets a lot of their stuff in.