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Posted: 5/14/2018 7:13:19 PM EDT
I have a few guns I want to parkerize. I like the thought of doing it myself. While it might not be cost advantageous at first, I'm sure over time I will eventually break even.

Ive watched a bunch of YouTube videos and here is what I'm thinking to start. I am open to any ideas or suggestions.

40" Stainless steel tub (eBay has one with a lid and drain that looks nice)

A three burner propane camp stove.

Maybe a second tank to heat hot clean water

I will degrease with acetone in steam table trays and then blast in a cabinet

Do I need a second tank for hot water to preheat or rinse afterward, or will I be fine rinsing them in the garage sink after?

Thoughts?
Link Posted: 5/14/2018 7:17:52 PM EDT
[#1]
Brownell's has a good instruction sheet.   https://www.brownells.com/userdocs/learn/Inst-482%20Parkerizing.pdf
Link Posted: 5/14/2018 7:19:03 PM EDT
[#2]
I've always rinsed in the sink.
Link Posted: 5/14/2018 9:44:19 PM EDT
[#3]
Thanks guys.  That Brownell's document had some great info.

So I'm looking at:
1. Degrease - Acetone
2. Blast
3. Degrease again - More Acetone
4. Preheat in water (Some people are saying yes, some are saying not important)
5. Park
6. Rinse
7. Oil

If I don't preheat I'll go with one tank.  Also looking at the Duracoat Black Pre-Dip to get it nice and black.
Link Posted: 5/15/2018 8:22:18 PM EDT
[#4]
I never pre heated mine.  It gets hot in the park tank.

I also made sure I had coffee filters to strain the crud off of the top of the park solution after using it several times.
Link Posted: 5/15/2018 10:23:12 PM EDT
[#5]
Got the tank ordered today along with some stainless steel mesh jewelry containers to hold the small parts both in blasting and parking.
Link Posted: 6/3/2018 7:36:48 AM EDT
[#6]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Thanks guys.  That Brownell's document had some great info.

So I'm looking at:
1. Degrease - Acetone
2. Blast
3. Degrease again - More Acetone
4. Preheat in water (Some people are saying yes, some are saying not important)
5. Park
6. Rinse
7. Oil

If I don't preheat I'll go with one tank.  Also looking at the Duracoat Black Pre-Dip to get it nice and black.
View Quote
Brownells Pre-Black dip is a lot cheaper than Duracoat and it's a concentrate. Also, I use a hot rinse tank (just water) after removing from the phosphate tank prior to using oil.  It stops the white flash stuff (I don't remember what it's called) from forming on the phosphated parts.

I don't pre-heat the parts and have always had good results.  Oh, the pre-black only works with zinc phosphate so don't use it with manganese phosphate.
Link Posted: 6/3/2018 9:37:48 PM EDT
[#7]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:

Brownells Pre-Black dip is a lot cheaper than Duracoat and it's a concentrate. Also, I use a hot rinse tank (just water) after removing from the phosphate tank prior to using oil.  It stops the white flash stuff (I don't remember what it's called) from forming on the phosphated parts.

I don't pre-heat the parts and have always had good results.  Oh, the pre-black only works with zinc phosphate so don't use it with manganese phosphate.
View Quote
Thank you.  I had already ordered the Duracoat pre dip, it says it will work with manganese...My first run is going to be an UZI.  I'm going to give a practice run to the demilled Uzi pieces.

Was planning on going with light metal tubs for pre/post wash, but contemplating picking up a second tank to heat.
Link Posted: 6/4/2018 4:39:38 PM EDT
[#8]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Thanks guys.  That Brownell's document had some great info.

So I'm looking at:
1. Degrease - Acetone
2. Blast
3. Degrease again - More Acetone
4. Preheat in water (Some people are saying yes, some are saying not important)
5. Park
6. Rinse
7. Oil

If I don't preheat I'll go with one tank.  Also looking at the Duracoat Black Pre-Dip to get it nice and black.
View Quote
Leave out step 3 and 4. No need to preheat. After blasting, go right into the park tank.

If you can find DuLite oil, it is very good preservative. That's what we used when I was at Barrett and Serbu.

Get your park solution about 190*-200*, add in some 0000 steel wool that does not have any type of treatment to it. Unroll a wad of it and lay it in the solution after it gets up to temp. Let the acid completely dissolve the steel wool. Will make your parts come out very dark.

After parking and a hot bath to neutralize the park solution, blow dry with an air hose and dip in the oil. Leave it for awhile to let the oil really soak in.
Lay a screen on your drip tank to let the excess oil drip off .
Link Posted: 6/7/2018 9:42:23 PM EDT
[#9]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:

Leave out step 3 and 4. No need to preheat. After blasting, go right into the park tank.

If you can find DuLite oil, it is very good preservative. That's what we used when I was at Barrett and Serbu.

Get your park solution about 190*-200*, add in some 0000 steel wool that does not have any type of treatment to it. Unroll a wad of it and lay it in the solution after it gets up to temp. Let the acid completely dissolve the steel wool. Will make your parts come out very dark.

After parking and a hot bath to neutralize the park solution, blow dry with an air hose and dip in the oil. Leave it for awhile to let the oil really soak in.
Lay a screen on your drip tank to let the excess oil drip off .
View Quote
Awesome Thank You!  I finally have almost everything in, unfortunately work is going to keep me too busy for a couple of weeks to get up and running.

I didn't realize the steel wool would dissolve.
Link Posted: 6/8/2018 3:56:04 PM EDT
[#10]
No problem.  I did the parkerizing at Barrett for about 2 or 3 years before going into assembly and test fire for 12 years.
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