I understand that now may not be the best time to start trying this but I need to start at some point.

This is my weak spot when it comes to being prepared.

I would like to start reloading 9mm and .223/5.56.

School me on Equipement. I have no problem with buy once, cry once.

Currently I have zero experience in the this field.

Thank you.

Read books, look at you tube, shop around for reloading stuff. Don’t be in a hurry, take your time. You can often find good used reloading equipment at gun shows for cheap. Good luck. I have been reloading since the mid 80’s. It’s fun for me.

Tag, I'm doing the same thing. Hopefully OP doesn't mind me asking some noob questions too. Most of the picture links in the tutorial threads are borked. I have all my equipment either in hand or on order except for a case trimmer.

Im going to start reloading calibers I already have brass for. (223, .40, and 30-06)

I'm going to be looking for components soon, my question: what were 2019 prices on primers, common powders and bullets? I know it's going to be higher, but I have no idea on where prices even started the year at before things got crazy.

I would say start with a single stage to get your feet wet. Setting up a progressive takes patience and know how and could be a problem for new reloaders.

I recommend the Lee Challenger kit. Nothing about it is particularly high grade but the powder measure is remarkably consistent, and the press is sturdy enough if you’re not a super precision shooter. It’s easy to learn the concepts on and if you get creative with setup can still crank out 200+ rounds an hour.

Get a nice beam scale. The Lee works but I’d say that’s the first thing you should look to upgrade. RCBS sells a few good options. Avoid digital scales, unless spending $500-1000 is something you’re interested in.

Pre panic I was paying $29-39 per thousand primers depending on brand and type. Components were about $55/k for 223 projectiles, and 9mm projectiles I paid about $63/k shipped. This is for blasting ammo, not SD or precision work. Those projectiles are and have always been more expensive.

its never a bad time to start looking for reloading gear. just keep your eyes open, and grab whatever you can when you see it for a decent price. used presses, tumblers, media, dies, brass, powder, primers, bullets, scales, books, etc. it might be a bad time to start up a complete reloading set up right now, but that wont keep you from getting started, researching gear, and buying odds and ends when you see them. like everything gun related, it takes time to get everything you need, so starting today is as good a time as any.

I suggest buying the ABCs of reloading and read it cover to cover.

It does a really good job of walking you through each individual step of reloading (with pictures) and explaining exactly what each step accomplishes.

It was recommended to me when I got started and it was the book that finally gave me the confidence that reloading is something I can do.

It's been about 10 years now and I crank out tens of thousands of rounds a year now.




Looks like there is a 10th edition coming out soon if you want to wait. It's up for pre-order now no idea what the release date it.

Also start with the pistol calibers using carbide dies. As you are just starting out that eliminates the extra steps of the learning curve for rifle case preps. Lee dies and the Challenger kits are good, but as mentioned upgrade to RCBS or Lyman powder scales (either brand) and powder measures ( I prefer Lyman for fine adjustment). Hornady and Speer manuals have a lot of “how to” information, and they don’t have to be the latest editions for the calibers you mention.

If your LGS has reloading component catalogs, especially from powder companies, get them. Easier to have hard copy references than reading from a computer.

There is an overwhelming amount of media and data on line.  You can easily be overloaded.

Find a friend that reloads and watch the operation.  Ask questions.  Take notes.

A friend of mine gives reloading classes, but I bet that is pretty rare.

Watch Amazon or Natchez Shooters Supply for deals on the RCBS Rebel Press Kit.  The equipment will last you a life time!  You will always need a single stage press and a quality mechanical scale!
All you need then is a caliper, dies, and shell holder.  And, a method to trim rifle brasss.
A small vibratory polisher is not all that expensive.  DO NOT GO FOR Ultrasonic or SS Pins methods.  Keep things simple.

Arguably, you do not need to tumble or clean your brass at all, but it does look nicer. When I started loading, I tried to go cheap with no tumbler.  

This is what stainless pins and two hours in a Frankford Arsenal wet tumbler will get you:



The Frankford is often under $90 and you only need about a quarter cup volume of pins.  Some folks don't use pins at all.  Two hours!!!!!

Frankford also makes some inexpensive dry tumblers that will last a long time.

I would also suggest a single stage press.  Get a case gauge  to check your reloads to ensure they will chamber.       223 is pretty finicky depending on the brass you use.   I would also suggest a Small base die set for the 223 since you might find a good deal on some military Lake City brass. The small base die completely reforms the case. Military firearms have a bigger chamber so the brass needs to be completely resized to save you some trouble.   Happy Loading

I started with a Rick chucker supreme kit. Frankford Arsenal tumbler. Walnut media from harbor freight. Homemade separator.

Harbor freight calipers and Le Wilson case gauge.

Thank you for the advice, I ordered ABC's and the latest Hornady manual.

I bought a Hornady LnL AP press, Lyman tumbler, and Hornady digital scale so far.

I'm going to be a bit contrarian and recommend a Dillon XL750 with casefeeder.

Progressives are a bit tougher to learn with but it's possible to disable some of the features so you are only working one cartridge at a time.

Reloading bulk 9mm and .223 on a single stage gets old fast.  

You're going to want some way to gauge headspace.  Dillon drop in gauges work well.  You could opt for a hundo gauge for your 9mm to speed things up a bit.  I like to gauge all my bulk ammo when I finish a batch so I know it will chamber.  It also gives me a good opportunity for checking primer seating.  

Something like the Hornady comparator is also a useful tool.  It will help extend brass life by minimizing resizing your bottlenecked cases.  It attaches to your calipers.  I recommend getting the flat base to go with it as it makes it easier to get accurate readings.

Speaking of calipers, you NEED a set.  They don't have to be fancy.  I like digital calipers because they are quicker to use.

You also need a method to weigh charges.  Most people will recommend a beam scale.  I use an RCBS digital scale.  If you use a digital scale, don't buy the cheapest one you can find.  And get some check weights to test it.  With digital scales, you want to always isolate them from electronic interference, keep them away from moving air when in use, turn them on at least a half hour before you plan to weigh anything to give them time to warm up, and calibrate it before you start using it.  I like to check the weight my powder measure is throwing frequently so a digital scale makes that much quicker.

I would advise against buying a reloading kit.  I bought an RCBS Rock Chucker Supreme kit when I started and never used many of the things in the kit because I replaced them with better options before I ever reloaded a single cartridge.

You will want a method to clean your cases.  When I started I cleaned them by soaking them in water with a splash of vinegar.  Today I use a wet tumbler for the first cleaning and a vibratory tumbler with corn cob for removing case lube from rifle cases.  I like Lyman vibratory tumblers.

While you work on figuring out which equipment to buy, I suggest starting to pick up some components as you see them become available.  Maybe put in a bullet order with RMR or the like as most bullet manufacturers are taking 4-8 weeks to ship.  For 9mm and .223 powders, I would recommend stocking up on True Blue or Silhouette for 9mm and Tac for .223.  All 3 have been relatively available during this panic.  Primers will be the toughest to find.  Small pistol and small rifle primers are in particularly short supply.  Buy any you can find for a decent price.  Under $40/1k is decent for the current market.  $25/1k was normal pre-panic.  Regular or magnum small rifle and small pistol primers will work for what you want to load.

Others have recommended the ABC's of Reloading.  I will recommend the Lyman 50th Edition reloading manual.  It has a broad range of load data and covers the basic steps and precautions a new reloader should be following.  I go even further and buy the manuals from the manufacturers whose bullets I like to use a lot of.  You can't have too many reloading manuals.  Then again, the powder manufacturers have data available online for free if you want to save money.

For .223, you will need a way to trim the cases.  I have a Giraud Tool bench trimmer, Dillon press mounted trimmer, and LE Wilson lathe style manual trimmer.  I like the Giraud the best.  The Dillon is the fastest if you have something like an XL750 press with casefeeder.  I use the LE Wilson for low volume stuff.  I also have a couple Lee hand trimmers which are cartridge specific and very tedious to use.  I do not recommend them.

watch YouTube videos

the very last video you watch should be the release video for Area 419's Zero press.

it should be the absolute last video you watch on the subject

@Kalahnikid

start with pistol.

straight-walled cases are a great place to start, the only thing you can really dork up would be over-charging the round (putting in too much powder)

the biggest threat there would be a double-charge, which is easy enough to check.  I would purposefully double-charge a case with the powder you're using, just to see what it looks like.

the other threat would be mixing powders, which is also easy enough to prevent:
one type of powder on the bench at a time.  
before you bring out a different powder type nothing on the bench should have exposed powder in or on it.  No powder measures, pans, tricklers, cases, nothing.

after you get comfortable with straight-walled pistol cases then you can easily take the next step to a necked cartridge

the only real difference between the two being the sizing becomes more relevant and the cases need to be lubricated before sizing

a warning, you're not going to save money reloading.  you'll just shoot more.

I am also a recent newb.  I bought a used Dillion 550B (9mm) and spent hours watching youtube and setting up the dies.  I have 4 hours setting and measuring dies and case sizes.  No joke!  But I really took my time.  I got a Franklin tumbler and walnut.  Have cleaned several hundred cases of brass.  

I got a nice little scale and used the 50th reloading book to come up with a 115gr recipe.  I got 100 loaded, all in good overall specs, I want to shoot those then will do more.

It will be short lived as I have virtually NO primers  

Awesome advice from everyone who took time to type out great responses, thank you very much!

agreed, most people do a drive-by with the "I don't want to do any work, just tell me what to do"

folks that demonstrate willingness get responses.  it also helps when we get a reference point for where your comfort and experience levels are

I used to help a friend reload (15 years ago), but life got busy and eventually we both moved away from where we were from. I remember doing .223 case prep by hand.... reaming primer pockets, trim case, measure, trim more, measure, de-burr. I thought it really sucked. so looking at some of the modern stuff like the Giruad is like...WOW! I watched a video of one in operation, how does that measure case length? Off the shoulder?

I used to help cast too, I thought that was way more fun than reloading. Maybe I'll try that on my own someday too.

casting bullets is so easy I really don't know why more people don't do it.

last weekend I melted out close to 10k 115-grain 9mm bullets

it was a 6-pound bucket of shit in a backstop before I got to it. now it's bullets

you're turning garbage into bullets.  stuff you can fire out of a gun.  for pennies on the dollar.

i just decided to do it one day.  bought a burner, propane tank, and an old cast iron dutch oven from a pawn shop

all in for gear it was less that $250   that includes an $80 Lee electric melting pot, a mold, and the other stuff i mentioned.

i felt like a real dummy for not starting earlier.  it's stupid easy

That looks like a lot of fun!

If you powder coat the bullets, do you still have to grease them?

Very cool, thank you for the explanation! I don't think people were doing that yet back when we were casting (that I knew of)

Must resist................

This made me watch a powder coating video.  The process is much easier than I expected and I have a spare toaster oven.

I added a bit above.



I wouldn't dissuade anyone from doing what they're interested in. take your time. I should change my name to Brassratt.
dedicate a space to this. I have a room. set things up see how it all works for YOU.


I started on a Xl650. its not all that. the only things I've done wrong was bent a depriming pin into a J and ran out of powder once
and had a bunch of WAY under weight 9mm.

start collecting anything you can. you'll use it sooner or later.

It may be in the archives, but there's also a way to make 9mm cases into .40 cal bullets, and .40 cases into .45 projectiles.

Last time I checked into this the forming dies are extremely expensive and the process required not only special dies but also a special press that could sustain the extreme forces necessary to swage lead into the case and form the nose.

IMHO, bullet casting is wayyyy cheaper and unlike manufactured bullets from brass cases, lead projectiles can be recovered and recast indefinitely!

I started reading the ABC's of Reloading last night.

When a guy with hook hands tells you to be careful with gun powder ... you pay attention!

Not the popular answer, but to get started I'd get, new or used, a Lee Perfect Powder Measure, a Lee "C" Reloader press, harbor freight digital calipers, Lee or other priming tool, amazon $25 digital drug dealer model mg scale, and a set of dies.  Get Hornady spray case lube.  A reloading tray or two. For .223/5.56 the Lee trim tool that fits in a cordless drill works to keep OAL under control, for ~$10. Don't bother with a tumbler right away, but if you get a deal on a used one, grab it.  I'd personally skip the dry media style and DIY a SS pins wet tumbler.

Sure, you can get a progressive later, but you'll find uses for a cheap C press.  I have lots of better presses, but will still use the Lee C style for little odds and ends.  

During one of the past panics, I loaded 200-300rds of 9mm a week during the summer with similar setup.  It was time consuming, but it worked. I'd shoot on Monday night, deprime all my brass that night, which is an easy mindless task you can do while drinking a beer. Prime the next night watching TV.  Charge 100 cases at a time, double check with flashlight while they were in trays, seat bullets, repeat.  Since your powder measure is just mounted to the bench, and the seating die is in the press you don't have to change anything out to do another batch of primed brass.  The part where you need to pay 100% attention is charging, especially with super fast powders/large volume cases.

IMHO, the most dangerous thing for new reloaders/sloppy reloaders is loading .38 and similar revolver stuff.  In order of problems I've seen in order squibs with no powder>double/triple charged revolver KBs>wrong powder used.  

As a starting reloader with 9mm and 5.56, the biggest way you can screw up is to use pistol powder in 5.56.  You need to watch for this 100% of the time and always clean your measure completely out of pistol powder.  

Buy a Dillon 550. Dillon dies except throw in Redding Competition seating dies for both calibers.

When you are new, save the headaches and buy processed brass. Shoot me a pm if you need sources.

Do yourself a early favor. Start with proven components before you go chasing the last penny saved. Example for 9mm-Make it easy Delta Precision 124 JHP-buy in lots of 2k. on .223 just stick with Hornady 55 grain SP.

Once you learn how to produce great ammo with proven components, then start changing variables to suit your taste/budget.

I haven't forgotten about this thread, but I'm not chasing components around in a panic. Picked a stupid time to start I guess.

I'll be back someday.