Answer is maybe on PC'g a bullet that has a gas check tail, and not using a gas check.

Hence PC coating will allow you to push a hard cast bullet (at least lyman #2) over 2KFPS without leading problems, but some GC cast bullet design bullets will not shoot well with out the gas check in place isntead.

Take the 55gr lee 224 bullets, and although PC coating will prevent them from leading, they shoot like shotgun patterns if the gas check is not installed when PC coated.

So myself, will just mod a GC mold to remove the tail small gas check section, so the cast bullet becomes a non gas check bullet type isntead.

As point out above, Lee 44 mag 310 fp bullet mold that started off with a gas check tail section to produce this bullet,


And the top of mold gas check section milled off to produce a gas check-less design bullet mold at 270gr instead.
Note, always planned to shave the mold to shave the gas section off the mold, even before I bought it. Hence one of my pistols is a 629 that you don't push 310gr full loads through it, since it will not hold up long.  Also, was looking for a gas check-less bullet around 270gr in the first place, and mod'd mold project turned out better than hoped for a bullet to run through my marlin 1894's as well.  Hence bullet using bottom crimp groove, ends up feeding like a dream in the actions, and only has about .003" jump to lands as well.




Loaded round on the left is the .003" jump to lands in the 1894's with a 270gr bullet loaded to 1800fps out of the rigs, sized to .4325" (micro groove/Ballard rifling requirement for the over sized bullet) and tack drives at MOA at 100 yards through the rigs as well.

Talking powder coated bullets;

You may be able to leave off a gas check for pistol rounds.

It's been my experience in 223, 300 blk, and 7.62x39 no gas checks = a pattern.

Same load but with a gas check = a group.

Only testing with your bullets and guns will tell how it will work for you.

Mill with flywheel cutting and dial indicator is used on the top of the mold with the spruce plate removed to tram the mold to the spindle head in the vise before cutting to begin with.   As for depth of cut, gas section on the mold is mic'd to start with, cutter kiss off to zero out the DRO, then DRO used for the needed depth of facing to remove the gas check section.
Note, still wanted a touch of the gas check section to slightly round the base of the bullet for seating to cases, so it was not total removed instead.

Once the top of the mold is faced and side edges lightly chamfered by hand and some face clean up with some 400 sand paper, depth of spruce bolt channel is tap'd deeper as need, and then mold cleaned and spruce plate reinstalled.

All this may sound complicated, but only take a few min's to do if you know how to machine.