User Panel
Posted: 2/22/2020 4:14:12 PM EDT
After a year of mulling it over I'm still interested enough in the NVG game to warrant seriously considering a purchase. I've already decided I want to go bino instead of mono, but all things considered, this is purely for fun. The truth is I don't hunt often, and besides going to a couple training courses, an NVG purchase for me would be purely a toy/luxury. As such, I'm having some trouble deciding where my budget and desires should meet, and I was hoping the more experienced members could provide some input.
Background: I'm a .mil flyer, and have been using ANVIS-9 green phosphor tubes. We recently switched over to white phosphor tubes, and I have limited time under them. I love them, but I'm debating whether or not WP tubes are really necessary for me on the civ side given their price. Plus, I understand that ANVIS sets are auto gain, whereas manual gain is generally preferable for ground use. So my main questions are: - Is manual vs auto gain that big of a difference for ground use? - Is white phosphor really worth the extra money for someone who is used to ANVIS-9 green tubes and will only be using this for training/fun? I'd like manual gain, but I can get manufacturer refurbed ANVIS-9 green phosphor tubes for ~$4.5k, and send them to TNVC to put them in RNVG housings for ~$1.3k more. As much as I'd like manual gain, the extra 2-3k to get into brand new manual gain binos (and even more for white phosphor) is where I'm starting to have trouble justifying the costs. I'm also keeping an eye on the EE (I don't mind buying used if it meets my specs/the price is right), but so far nothing quite fits the bill. Long story short, ANVIS-9s are my baseline, and I'm wondering if manual gain/WP are worth the extra cost for a casual user. Ideally I'm trying to stay under $6k for a usable set of gen 3 binos, and I'm wondering if that's realistic/possible. Sorry if this was a bit all over the place; I'm new to night vision, there's a ton of info to get lost in. |
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[#1]
Augee I'm sure will be in shortly, as he loves the ANVIS stuff.
Mind I ask what you fly and what do you see the main differences between the green vs. white while flying? Any SA differences that are readily apparent? We mostly hear the ground aspects of WPT vs. green, but not much from the Angels 10 or the NOE perspective. |
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[#2]
Quoted:
After a year of mulling it over I'm still interested enough in the NVG game to warrant seriously considering a purchase. I've already decided I want to go bino instead of mono, but all things considered, this is purely for fun. The truth is I don't hunt often, and besides going to a couple training courses, an NVG purchase for me would be purely a toy/luxury. As such, I'm having some trouble deciding where my budget and desires should meet, and I was hoping the more experienced members could provide some input. Background: I'm a .mil flyer, and have been using ANVIS-9 green phosphor tubes. We recently switched over to white phosphor tubes, and I have limited time under them. I love them, but I'm debating whether or not WP tubes are really necessary for me on the civ side given their price. Plus, I understand that ANVIS sets are auto gain, whereas manual gain is generally preferable for ground use. So my main questions are: - Is manual vs auto gain that big of a difference for ground use? - Is white phosphor really worth the extra money for someone who is used to ANVIS-9 green tubes and will only be using this for training/fun? I'd like manual gain, but I can get manufacturer refurbed ANVIS-9 green phosphor tubes for ~$4.5k, and send them to TNVC to put them in RNVG housings for ~$1.3k more. As much as I'd like manual gain, the extra 2-3k to get into brand new manual gain binos (and even more for white phosphor) is where I'm starting to have trouble justifying the costs. I'm also keeping an eye on the EE (I don't mind buying used if it meets my specs/the price is right), but so far nothing quite fits the bill. Long story short, ANVIS-9s are my baseline, and I'm wondering if manual gain/WP are worth the extra cost for a casual user. Ideally I'm trying to stay under $6k for a usable set of gen 3 binos, and I'm wondering if that's realistic/possible. Sorry if this was a bit all over the place; I'm new to night vision, there's a ton of info to get lost in. View Quote ETA: My -9 was a refurbed from ASU-NVG with thin filmed GP. Worked great but I already had filmless converted to 10160 format so I swapped them in. I love the lightweight of the -9. If you're not partial to Anvis objectives and want a true ground use goggle, skip the -9 and go straight to an RNVG with PVS-14 optics. You'll get a little bit more performance from the -14 glass versus Anvis and the RNVG is more rugged. Photonis Echo WP works fairly well and will save you some $. They lose out in very low light to Gen 3 so if that's important to you then go thin filmed GP or WP. |
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[#3]
So, if you can afford to do so, I would absolutely recommend WP, though your budget doesn’t allow a super lot of wiggle room.
For $4,500 a set of green ANVIS to start is probably not bad at all, though, and as you pointed out, they can be converted to RNVGs along with some other housing options in the future if you decide to. Meanwhile, re: manual gain versus automatic gain only in terms of dual tube googles, this came up a couple days ago, so I’m going to more or less re-post what I wrote last time, but the short version is: While manual gain doesn’t really hurt anything, and in general, I’m agnostic towards it, I don’t really consider it to be a necessity for ground use, at least not in a ground combat role—though others have pointed out recreational situations in which it can be somewhat useful. Note, this was in part written in the context of navigating during extremely bright, moonlit nights and the use of gain to “calm down” bright images, especially during movement in rural terrain. An important part of learning to use Night Vision is ironically learning when not to use Night Vision. When pulling technology out of the kit bag, the question you need to ask yourself, not just about VAS technologies, but anything, is "why am I using this, and what is it accomplishing, and what am I giving up?" At least in terms of a ground application, the big point when it comes to image intensifying Night Vision is movement. Traditional I2 is typically preferred when you are moving from one place to another discretely. This could be movement to an ORP, or movement on an objective, through a structure or a built up area, etc., the prime benefit of I2 is that it gives you relatively naturalistic vision minus the fact that it enhances it and allows you to see outside of your normal visual spectrum. For observation, detection, fixed defense, etc., often thermal devices are preferred, because they provide superior capabilities for those applications, and so long as you're not moving around a lot, they're better tools for the job. This is also one of the reasons that we teach and preach a combination of technologies for full spectrum operations. Because of this, I2 tends to be preferred for more... well, "offensive" applications, the classic maxim of "close with and destroy," fast moving actions on contact, actions on objective, etc., as well as movement to the objective, and if you're trying to sneak away unnoticed, movement from the objective. In terms of how this applies to I2 Night Vision and manual versus automatic gain, something to consider is the principles of movement and maneuver and patrolling--I won't go into them all, but here's the thing: If you're under a full moon or fairly high illumination--that is to say, a situation where your NVGs might be "too bright," maybe it's worth considering whether you should be using Night Vision at all? Night Vision has a lot of limitations in terms of situational awareness compared to your natural vision, being able to see further into the dark may or may not be the be all end all of the tactical situation if your environment is so bright that you can see just fine with your natural vision, at least well enough to conduct your movement. For those that have any experience patrolling and/or maneuvering, the term "SLLS Halt" is likely familiar, an acronym standing for: Silence, Look, Listen, Smell. When conducting a deliberate movement, you should be conducting frequent SLLS Halts, and if it's bright out--you should probably be moving primarily without your Night Vision while on the move, mounted to your head, dropping them down when you conduct your SLLS Halt, and preferably pulling out a thermal monocular and scanning with that as well, before resuming movement. If you're in a team, it can be worthwhile to perhaps have some guys on NVDs, or even better yet, Fusion, during your movement, and FWIW, this is a situation where the use of a monocular or even articulated goggles can potentially shine if you're into that kind of thing, but during the SLLS Halt, everyone should a) know the drill, and b) be taking part. So, manual gain. The big advantage to having manual gain on a monocular is that the overly bright image in one tube can cause your brain to essentially "shut off" your other eye. Adjusting the manual gain to a lower level when using a monocular can be extremely important in very dark conditions, because you still want to get as much unaided eye information as possible, better depth perception, better situational awareness, etc., and if the image in one eye is so unevenly superior in one eye versus the other, you may end up at a disadvantage. Now, if conditions are so dark that you can't see or move without NVDs, and you have dual tube goggles, a) you'll likely want the gain cranked up as high as possible, and b) you'll want to have both eyes in the tubes so that you can take the fullest advantage of the binocular parallax and other advantages of dual goggles. On the other hand, if conditions are so bright that your unaided eye can see pretty well without the NV tube, then the brightness level of your aided eye is honestly just not that big of a deal--a monocular at high gain will allow you to see deeply into the dark darks, but your brain will "prefer" to use your more natural eye, and if it's that bright, your aided eye won't really be "overpowering" your unaided eye. So that's rural movement. Say you're conducting operations and movement in more urban/suburban terrain. Again, mono or duals, mixed lighting or pitch black, a lot of the same things apply, except for this: If you're in an urban area with mixed artificial lighting, you'll find that there are a lot more inconsistent dark darks, crevices and corners and alleys to hide in, and if you're looking into these areas for potential ambush threats, you'd better believe you want to see everything you can, lest you miss the dirtbag with the AK behind that car in that alley because you cranked your goggles lower than they could be--worse if you're part of a unit movement and crossing a linear danger area, and your ass is the one that got everyone lit up because you were futzing with the gain. So in urban/mixed light? You want all the gains, and plus, your tubes still have Automatic Brightness Control (ABC) that will regulate the brightness of your tubes as you move between lit and unlit areas. P.S. a lot of these are also good reasons is why it's good to have a good IR, directional IR illuminator to pump mWs into dark spaces when your goggles may be adjusting down and where scumbags can hide that doesn't have a downrange visible signature. Okay, so wherever you are, you've moved from your Release Point (RP) and you've hit your ORP (Objective Rally Point). Now it's game the motherfuck on. Whether we're talking an urban/suburban objective, or a more rural one. If you're going to conduct the assault under NODs, and you have the option of dual tubes, you'll want to be under dual tubes, and you'll want the gain up high, because once you initiate the assault, you're moving moving moving until you've completed your actions on the objective, and you're not going to have time to mess around with the gain on your goggles, and again, you don't want to get caught in a situation where you miss something because you've got your gain down too low. Again, this is why it's critical to have your equipment ready, know what it does and does not do, have everything switched to the right setting, etc., all the stuff I talked about in the other thread in terms of Load and Make Ready procedures--because once the heat is on, you're not going to want to be messing with that stuff. So, here's the thing. Under none of those circumstances does manual gain make a lick all of difference positively, so instead, you have a control you rarely touch or use, the only thing it adds is the potential to get messed up and accidentally dicked with. Manual gain dual goggles "brief well," but honestly, IMHO, it's not that important. I don't hate manual gain dual tubes, I spend a lot of time under PVS-31As which have the manual gain control, and needless to say, a lot of Shooty McShooterson guys use 31As, so it's not like you're going to get "kill't in da streetz" if you have a manual gain knob--the real answer is that the gain control knob simply rarely gets touched (to adjust gain, that is--on the 31As the gain control knob is also the ON/OFF switch, so it gets touched a lot for that ). Just like offset irons + MRD mounting footprint + 1-4x variable magnification range on the SU-230/PVS-C Elcan SpecterDR, sometimes with USSOCOM systems, you have a bunch of Officers (I am one, don't taze me--) that end up sitting around saying "and I want that, and I want that, and I want that..." and you end up with systems that have... just a little redundancy in them and a sprinkle of "good idea fairy" dust for good measure. At the same time, something to consider is that both the DTNVG and DTNVS were designed and built with a lot of feedback and development from both European SOF and LE and U.S. professional end-users, and the DTNVG has become one of the most popular goggles among a lot of a prominent trainers in the U.S., many of whom a) buy their own goggles with their own money, whether from us or from others, rather than being sponsored by anyone to push their goggles, and b) are former high-level SOF, and neither the AN/PVS-23 (F5050), nor the AN/PVS-15, or GPNVG-18 have manual gain capabilities, either, with no one that I'm aware of complaining about that fact or feeling that it was a limiting factor, with most of the rest using either PVS-31As or Sentinels, with the arguments for PVS-31As being "it's what my customers use" or "lightweight," never "because it has manual gain." ~Augee |
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[#4]
Actually, if you go with the Anvis-9, there will hopefully be a new goggle coming to market soon that looks like it will be a perfect fit between the -9 and RNVG Anvis. The Artemis from TNVC. I'm excited for it and hope it shows up soon.
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[#5]
Quoted:
Augee I'm sure will be in shortly, as he loves the ANVIS stuff. Mind I ask what you fly and what do you see the main differences between the green vs. white while flying? Any SA differences that are readily apparent? We mostly hear the ground aspects of WPT vs. green, but not much from the Angels 10 or the NOE perspective. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Augee I'm sure will be in shortly, as he loves the ANVIS stuff. Mind I ask what you fly and what do you see the main differences between the green vs. white while flying? Any SA differences that are readily apparent? We mostly hear the ground aspects of WPT vs. green, but not much from the Angels 10 or the NOE perspective. Quoted:
I've had a NVD-BNVD-SG articulating goggle and I currently have an Anvis-9 with filmless WP and a Sentinel with thin filmed GP (similar to the RNVG). As you're describing your use & budget (kind of) and prior experience with Anvis-9, that's the cheapest option and I'd probably just run it as-is unless you break it, then upgrade to the RNVG Anvis. |
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[#6]
Quoted:
So, if you can afford to do so, I would absolutely recommend WP, though your budget doesn’t allow a super lot of wiggle room. For $4,500 a set of green ANVIS to start is probably not bad at all, though, and as you pointed out, they can be converted to RNVGs along with some other housing options in the future if you decide to. Meanwhile, re: manual gain versus automatic gain only in terms of dual tube googles, this came up a couple days ago, so I’m going to more or less re-post what I wrote last time, but the short version is: While manual gain ... View Quote This was a really great writeup; I really appreciate you taking the time! Gives me a lot to think about and digest. I was hesitant to jump on the 9s because I didn't want to just buy something subpar because the price seemed right (even though I'm familiar with them), and it's good to hear that I'm not totally off the mark. |
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[#7]
Quoted:
Were either of those auto gain vs manual? If so, do you notice a major disadvantage on the ground with the auto gain? View Quote Gain control is nice to have and if I can have it I'll take but truthfully after using both types it's not a necessary feature IMO. Especially if you go with higher spec tubes. Lower spec tubes can produce more noise in dark conditions and turning down the gain I've found helps to make a better image. Or use a good illuminator and it cleans it right up. Going with a gain control goggle means you have to use 11769 tubes which means if you decide to switch housings later on you have less options. Most binos are auto-gain and use 10160 tubes, so going auto-gain you have more options later down the road. |
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[#8]
Manual gain is great for calming the image down so it creates less fatigue on your eyes and can quickly be changed by rolling the gain knob similar to the AimPoint Comp series RDS.
Auto gain is better suited for dynamic situations where you don't have to worry about adjusting the gain in a fast pace environment. WP vs GP comes down to what you prefer. While L3 and Harris/Elbit tubes are closer to white vs the Photonis WP tubes which have a blue hue to them and give me eye strain that leads eventually to a head ache. IMHO GP are the better deal since WP is the new flavor of the month since a lot of SOF are requesting them, so they're commanding a premium price vs GP. IMHO I'd rather spend the extra money getting a higher grade tube vs a color palate change. As for buying a refurbished set of Anvis 9 then having them converted you may want to search around for a deal on a factory built unit with a warranty. For the money these are the best I've found with HP+ tubes that will give you excellent performance in extreme low lighting, are a little more than what you'll pay with what you listed and the ability to articulate up to turn of a single pod that is raised or both if they are articulated or stowed in the up right position. Check around as I have and see other companies charging thousands more for the same unit with the same specs. $6899 is an AWESOME deal. https://www.jrhenterprises.com/BNVD-Single-Gain-3rd-Gen-Pinnacle-HP-Night-Vision-Bino-BNVDsgHP.htm |
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[#9]
please stop hi jacking threads..this is a technical forum not GD. <<Striker>>
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[#10]
Quoted:
I'm on U-28s, so most time is spent up pretty high where gain issues aren't a huge factor. Main difference I notice is that the white phosphor appears more... natural, for lack of a better term. Some guys say its less strain on their eyes over time, which I also find to be true. But the biggest difference I notice is that for me at least, picking out contrast in the negative areas (shadows, etc) seems a lot easier than it was with the green. I'm not exactly sure why, but if I had to wager a guess, it's probably because the contrast between the light and dark in white is more obvious than in green, because green is a darker color. Additionally, on low illum nights (almost no moon), the white definitely seems to be brighter. Some guys claim they can get a sharper resolution with the whites, but I think that's more of a placebo effect with them being the new hotness, if we're being honest. Were either of those auto gain vs manual? If so, do you notice a major disadvantage on the ground with the auto gain? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Quoted:
Augee I'm sure will be in shortly, as he loves the ANVIS stuff. Mind I ask what you fly and what do you see the main differences between the green vs. white while flying? Any SA differences that are readily apparent? We mostly hear the ground aspects of WPT vs. green, but not much from the Angels 10 or the NOE perspective. Quoted:
I've had a NVD-BNVD-SG articulating goggle and I currently have an Anvis-9 with filmless WP and a Sentinel with thin filmed GP (similar to the RNVG). As you're describing your use & budget (kind of) and prior experience with Anvis-9, that's the cheapest option and I'd probably just run it as-is unless you break it, then upgrade to the RNVG Anvis. If you have any further questions, give me or Augee a PM, I give out my cell number to many. Feel free to indulge, our advice is always free as we all train for living. Just not the luxury of flying with them like you Sir. Thanks for your service in what you do. |
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[#11]
I'll be brief.
IMO, white phosphor: YES! Although you having used both are really in a better spot to make that judgement for yourself. I have VERY limited time behind green, and found white to be much, much better. Worth the price of admission for me. Manual gain - I got this, and almost never adjust it. If I did it all over again knowing what I know now, I'd skip it to save the $500 and a few grams of weight. Other than just farting around, the one thing I've found it useful for is dialing down the other tube to match when I've got the Tarsier focus ring closed on the other (they're fking $200, I only bought one). Beyond that, the auto-gating (someone smarter will have to tell me if there's a difference between that and auto-gain) works just fine to tone down "over-bright" images. |
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[#12]
I teach a lot of NV and go to a lot of NV classes from other instructors and come into contact with a few hundred students a year. Other than dept issued units with PVS-15/31’s I can count on one hand the manual gain units I see at classes that are not PVS-14’s.
The shear numbers of dual tube auto gain systems from Sentinels/RNVG’s/MOD3’s/DTNVG’s/ANVIS pretty much speak for themselves. |
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[#13]
I own a manual gain MOD3. I wanted the manual gain function in case I ever split them, they would function exactly like a -14 so you could dial down the intensity. I don't really think there's a lot of those floating around out there, and it was more or less so I could test them out, since I owned every other flavor of MOD3 when they came out.
Aside from that, all of my other dual housings are auto, and I wouldn't really want it any other way. There are times that I will grab the MOD3 and turn the gain down for stargazing though, but it really isnt that big of a deal and I would not consider it the primary use of that set. lol. The manual gain adds more weight, so if you don't need it, I would just skip it. |
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[#18]
And this is why the FB groups are booming and this tech forum is getting stale. You all realize the other vendors are killing it on social media, without most of this drama, right? :-(
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[#19]
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[#20]
Quoted:
And this is why the FB groups are booming and this tech forum is getting stale. You all realize the other vendors are killing it on social media, without most of this drama, right? :-( View Quote |
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[#22]
Quoted:
I teach a lot of NV and go to a lot of NV classes from other instructors and come into contact with a few hundred students a year. Other than dept issued units with PVS-15/31’s I can count on one hand the manual gain units I see at classes that are not PVS-14’s. The shear numbers of dual tube auto gain systems from Sentinels/RNVG’s/MOD3’s/DTNVG’s/ANVIS pretty much speak for themselves. View Quote |
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[#23]
Quoted:
I teach a lot of NV and go to a lot of NV classes from other instructors and come into contact with a few hundred students a year. Other than dept issued units with PVS-15/31’s I can count on one hand the manual gain units I see at classes that are not PVS-14’s. The shear numbers of dual tube auto gain systems from Sentinels/RNVG’s/MOD3’s/DTNVG’s/ANVIS pretty much speak for themselves. View Quote |
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[#24]
15’s are auto, but I pumped them in with issued goggles. Because I never recommend those units if you’re not a DOD entity.
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[#25]
In terms of issued systems:
AN/PVS-14 AN/PSQ-20 AN/PVS-31 AN/PSQ-36 are all manual gain systems. AN/AVS-6/9 AN/PVS-7 AN/AVS-10 AN/PVS-15 AN/PVS-18 AN/PVS-23 GPNVG-18 Are all automatic gain systems (apologies if I missed any, I'm rattling them off off top of my head ). FWIW, manual gain can be useful in conjunction with Fusion technology as well with a thermal channel, including the COTI, as it can allow the thermal channel to "pop" with higher contrast to the I2 image without being distractingly bright, though once again, I haven't exactly had much trouble using the COTI with automatic gain systems. We're starting to stray off topic a little bit here, but on advantage of the COTI over the E-COTI is much more user-friendly controls for regulating thermal channel brightness in varying lighting conditions (the COTI and E-COTI also have automatic brightness control as well). ~Augee |
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[#28]
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[#29]
Quoted:
Yay, more NV forum drama... View Quote There Was a Firefight |
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[#31]
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[#35]
So, yeah. I think 6K is reasonable for a set of RNVG's. You might not be getting filmless tubes, but I think you'll certainly get something great and usable.
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[#36]
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