Hey all, I'm still pretty new to reloading and have only used one powder.

how do you figure out that you want to try new powders and that the new powders won't go kaboom?

ive seen at least 4 different suggestions for both 9mm and .223. I intend to load for 30-06 and 6.5cm eventually as well so it's hard to try and keep all the different things straight right now.

I get load books from the powder companies whose powder I want to use and from the bullet companies whose bullets I use.
Also get the Lyman book.
Do a bit of research on the caliber I want to load for and when I see the same info for best load several times I order what they used.

buy as many reloading books as you can.

amazon and ebay have clean, used ones cheap.

check out online data from places like

http://www.hodgdonreloading.com/

http://www.alliantpowder.com/reloaders/

https://load-data.nosler.com/

and ask on your favorite reloading forums like this one

You’ll end up with several powders.  I roll 4 rifle calibers and 4 pistol.    I think there are about 6 different powders in my cabinet.

Once you load rifle, you will see there is not as much “overlap” with rifle powders as with pistol.   Just stick to manufacturers recommendations for starting loads, don’t jump right into max charges.

Especially so, for a new reloader.

Yup, buy the book for the big brands of bullets you intend to load.

Then buy another common book, and might as well get a Lee book (compilation from other sources) while you're at it.

Download the western powders manual too.

For a newbie wanting to keep it simple and safe -

Winchester 231 - all handgun cartridges (9 mm)  <-- it just works!

Ramshot TAC - 223 <-- ball powder that makes loading easy and safe.

Get started with those.  When you add the other two cartridges, we can talk again.

Can't fuck up .223 using TAC, book recipes work just fine for me, no intricate tailoring needed. Works good on midweight .308s too. I believe it is usable for lightweight 30-06 as well.

IIRC H4350 is suitable for -06 and 6.5CM.

I go to the manufacturers website and look up their published load data then I start near the bottom and work my way up.  A powder burn chart will help you pick a powder that will work best for your load.

When I shoot the load, I look at the primers after firing and if they have nice round edges then I know it is safe.  The size of the group and a chrono will help you determine if the load will be accurate.

231 is really popular but if you look at a powder burn chart, you can find similar burn rate powders such as Unique, Power Pistol, and WSF.  You cannot use the same load data for all of them but they should be pretty close.

One reason I like W231 is the wide range of charge weights over which it is produces safe pressures.

W231 has about a 50% wider range than True Blue.  I see that as a benefit to the new reloader who may have less than stellar technique for throwing charges.  

Some powders (IIRC, like Titegroup) should be avoided by the newbie due to the more narrow range of charge weights over which it is safe and due to the adverse consequences of going over the max charge weights.

To me, cleanliness is of secondary importance.  IME, some powders keep the gun clean by sending particulates down range as smoke.  That is really bad at an indoor range but is even noticeable outdoors.

Others may make the gun a little bit dirtier but make much less smoke.  <-- W231

Then, there are powders than make atrocious smoke and make your gun FILTHY.  <-- Unique

So, the OP's observation about being overwhelmed is valid.  

Pick a powder.  Ask about it on the forum.

I don’t always agree with your reasoning but modern powders often can give you something the old ones don’t.  So like you the new powders are worth researching and if they fit the bill, use them.  

My pistol powders now lean toward modern clean powders, preferably with flash retardant.  
Much of my rifle shooting reloading now leans toward temp stability.   Almost a certainty for my hunting ammo.  


That said older powders like IMR 4064 and RL 15, and Win 231 were very workable.   I am nearly ready to let go of my penchant for RL15 as there are better more modern powders out there.   IMR 4895 is done when the jug is empty.  I use H4895 instead.  That said you can come up with plenty of accurate loads with both.  IMR4064 always seems to shoot well in large and mid sized milsurp cartridges. IT IS Clunky though.  

I view my old accuracy loads as back up plans.  


I can do quite a lot of rifle shooting with H4895, H4350, and H4831SC.  
One oddball that just suits one cartridge is AA2200 for the 6.8 rem.  It just works nicely there so I have it as a single application powder.

Thanks for the immense info everyone. I enjoy reading the discussions between all of you as well.

ive been doing some research and am happily doing more!

OP, ball powders like True Blue and TAC will make throwing charges MUCH easier for you when starting out.  I would say that is enough to recommend them all by itself.

When you gain some more experience, you could experiment with other powders.  If you see some need not fulfilled by the ball powders, go for it!

Until then...


One final thought - StaBall6.5 is a temperature stable ball powder for your 6.5 Creedmoor.  It will work elsewhere but, heck, it's named 6.5 for a reason.

As a new reloader should own Hornady's and Sierra's manuals. Virtually all other data is available online. Download Accurate Arms/Western Powders, VihtaVuori and any other data base you can. Store Hodgdon, Nosler, Barnes and others in your favorites.

I use WW-231, TiteGroup and Bullseye for lead pistol loads and jacketed .45acp.
I use Power Pistol for full power 9mm and .40 S&W.

Every cartridge and bullet combination is going to shine with adjusted charges in the proper burn rate. Some powders are excellent across several calibers, Varget, RE-15, H4895 and VihtaVuori N140 work great in .233 to .308. You can use them in .30-06 for M1 Garand loads.

Read and re-read the manuals. If you are confused or need some clarification simply ask away. There is pinned reloading information at the top of this page. Read it.

I always reference the bullet manufacturer's data. It's my belief that they have the greatest experience and largest data base when using their products. I do not agree with those who believe that some reloading data "down loaded or "lawyered down" as they like to say. The published maximums are exactly what the tester discovered on the day they performed their tests. Using their components in their firearm they topped out and reported it as such.

Be aware, military surplus brass in .308 (7.62x51mm) needs a full 2.0 grain powder reduction when compared to Winchester brand commercial brass. Other brands of commercial brass lat on a continuum between these two extremes.

Availability is another factor

Dryflash often recommends True Blue powder.

I've never seen it.

All the local shops in my area carry winchester, hogedon, and Allient powders.

If I ever see a lb. on a shelf, I'll try it, but I'm not paying Hazmat $$ to try something
.
.

I remember during the obama era, the only powder on anybodys shelf was CFE-p

I was mad as hell about it, and didn't like the idea of having to work up new loads.

later I had to admit, CFE-p is a great powder, similar to HS-6

.

I know

but why pay hazmat when I can buy other powders local

lots of good powders available for 9mm

Sport Pistol or Titegroup for plinking, USPSA, IDPA etc.

BE-86, Unique, Power pistol, HS6, CFE-p,  win231 for warmer loads


.

Nothing local so that forced me online, which led me to Shooters World AR Plus. Ordered 7lbs today as alternative for my h335 55gr fmj loads

I only had time for the first string of PPvarmint today, I started at 25.5gr, and it was already up there in velocity and showed promise in the accuracy department, even with FMJ.

So far I like it.

Have some SW match rifle loaded up in .223 that I need to get to as well. I have a good feeling about it.

Side note: ramshot big game seems to have a fairly good usability range. It also produced pretty damn good groups across a wide test range (7gr, 1gr increments) with good velocity and negligible pressure signs in 30-06 for me.

Again, check out the ramshot/accurate .pdf. They do seem to have very liberal charges. I know I'm easily .7gr under their max for 55gr .223, and I'm not pussy loading it.

I wish alliant would push more data.

I've found that it's easier in the long run for me to start a bit lower than I think I need, and load up some a bit higher than max. No shame in pulling down cartridges, only shame in blowing up a gun. But it's really annoying to have to go back to the range because you skimped on loading the last two increments before max.

Good to hear. I have a pound of ultimate pistol and 2 lbs precision already but nothing loaded.

Also Shooters World has a Shooters group on Facebook.

James from Shooters world said 24 gr of AR Plus would be a good starting point to match velocities of my 25 gr if h335 and 55 gr fmj.

Aren't a lot of SW powders essentially rebranded Accurate Arms powders like AA#2 & AA#5? Not that there's anything wrong with that.

OP..several of the answers here are not answering the question you are asking. How to choose a powder. The kaboom part will depend on the powder you use.

The questions I ask myself. Velocity, accuracy or economy.

For bonded rainy day loading I go with powders that offer velocity. (Defense)
For accuracy I go with powders that offer accuracy in spite of velocity. (Target)
For economy I go with powders that use less powder for a larger volume of ammo. (Plinking)

The bullet weight will dictate the powder depending on the above answer or the powder will dictate the bullet depending on the above.

Pick bullet or powder. Decide on what you want it to do. Start reading and find the bullet or powder that fits.

How I use this. My favorite load and put away bullet is the nosier 90gr accubond in 6.8. I have a few powders that will work just fine with this bullet but I want velocity. Going through tables of the powders I have I decide on H322 as it will give me about 3000 fps at max value. I start mid table with powder volume and work to my desired velocity.

That touches on a great point.  

When at all possible I like to try a new powder buying a pound locally.  When I am satisfied that it does something better than what I have tried before I only then will buy the bigger jug in 4,5,8 pound container.  My buddy does it differently, when he establishes a powder he buys a case of one pounders that you only have to break a seal on one at a time.  A couple bucks in cost more his way.



I would much prefer to buy all my powder locally but it runs very high in my area and unless it is a shotgun powder no one stocks jugs, just single pounders.

Back to the OPs question as was suggested.

One thing I like to do is look at several manuals I have and online manuals too.

I look for powders that appear to be right in the best burnrate band for what I want.   If I look in a manual for a given projectile weight and the powder weights suggested end earlier than the others on the list then I presume it is a powder that can work but isn’t the optimal burn rate.  Same if they don’t load as low as the others on the list.  The powder may be great say for a 55 grain 223 load but flip the page and it may not work for 77 grain.   You may want two different powders or you may choose one powder than can work in both.  Lots of info out there if you ask what powders work for heavies versus light bullets.

Do some googling or bing searches and read discussions.   I want to know if a certain powder in a certain cartridge is noted for sudden pressure spikes at the top.  That is just extra risk in my book.  I want straight predictable rises.  No two tenths change  and I go from fine to beating the bolt open.  

No spookiness allowed.  Another spook factor is powders that get bad spikes in hot temps.  Most will increase but I again don’t want ugly surprises.

If I am finding my best accuracy at max pressures then I am weighing every charge to avoid an overthrow.  If I have a good charge four tenths below pressure signs then I feel higher confort with a thrown powder charge.  I have more comfort in thrown ball than stick.  Stick I throw light, scale weigh and trickle to target weight.  I am one that never really found perfect throwing with extruded powders.  I polished my rcbs uniflows and dillon measures which help.



Edit

Also for loads for beginner reloader with pistol.........use a fluffy bulky powder, one that is obvious when you look that you threw a charge in a case TWICE.  Deliberately charge a case and learn what it looks like by eye.   Throw a double charge in a case.  Can you recognize the difference?  It isn’t always easy.  A fluffy versus dense powder uses more case volume for the same weight.  A small charge of dense powder is harder to see if double charged.  When in doubt, empty it and rethrow.  On a progressive it is easy enough to get distracted if something on another stage has a hickup, like a flipped primer or a bullet falling before being seated.  Go slow and methodically,   When you have it down pat as second nature then perhaps go to more economical small dense powder charges.  

just my thoughts.

Features and compatibility with reloading techniques (i.e. large grain in a progressive is unattractive to me. But ball powder in ultra-precision single stage loads I avoid as well).  T stability and copper fouling removal/cleanliness.  Cross cartridge compatibility.  Accuracy and performance. And high velocity, which implies burn rate is optimized.  Price and availability.  All of these are factors in what powders I run.

Burn rate charts can help.

Faster powders make good pistol target powders, as the get slower, they tend to give more velocity in pistols, unique, and Power pistol are good examples.

beyond that you get to magnum pistol powders like 2400, H110, win296, and then into rifle powders.

LOL

I'll buy a can if I see one at a gunshow, or road trip

I do internet searches or talk with people and find what the favorite powders and charges are. I then compare that to load manuals. I avoid oddball or hard to get powders. When I work up the load, I usually find what is working well for others works well in my firearms.

My expectations of loads is probably less than others. I usually don’t waste a lot of time and money looking for the perfect load. I choose how much precision I need and only developed a load to meet that. I have a new service rifle upper to develop 77 and 80gr loads for. The manufacture recommended H4895. I will test some loads using H4895 and if they are accurate enough I will go with it. I could try other powders. It may squeak out another 1/4 moa. That will not be seen at my marksmanship skill level so it would be a waste of wear on the barrel.

A judicious sense of effort.  

check out the nj high power radomski link in the 69 sierra thread.   His page will get you close.

In some guns, like the M1a, sometimes the most precise load isn’t the one the shooter can deal with all day, dropping the powder back a bit or even to a lower node might be precise enough and be more shootable for that shooter.

You make perfect sense to me working to the task required.


H4895 and 77 smk will do the job if you can.  

Despite all the recommendations given above, I will tell you how I settled on my most recent change in powders.

Analysis & Test

Here is a link to the thread in which you'll find all the details - link to thread on AR15.COM

I had been accommodating what would have been very high pressures, probably KABOOM level pressures, had I not loaded the cartridge with a very charge.  I was using charges in the range of 34.5 to 36.0 gr of H4350 while others were using as much as 41.0 gr.  I was getting lower velocities than they but I would not go higher.

The Analysis -

Many thanks to @30Caliber, who ran his QuickLoad software.  Using his data, I was able to identify new two powders to try in a cartridge I've used for 20 years - the 6XC.

Analyzing the Analytical Results -

So, by looking over the QuickLoad results (analysis) and with some load development testing, I found a powder that lowers the chamber pressure by 10,000 psi, actually yields higher muzzle velocity.

The Testing -

Using normal load development test methods, I found that a load that groups as well or better than I can shoot (<0.5 MOA groups).  My chronograph measurements agree amazingly well with the QuickLoad predictions.  



This is most likely NOT the way to go for a newbie to reloading but it worked 100% for me.

As such, it represents yet another way of "finding and deciding on new powders" which is what this thread is all about.