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Posted: 3/13/2023 7:14:34 PM EDT
So I switched over from cam to ez lok. I wanted something that was more secure, and that I didn’t have to worry about as much.
Got a chance to use it this weekend, and had pretty constant issues getting past 8 or so rounds without it loosening. From reading all the reviews, I think I have to be doing something wrong here. This is the host I used.  Attached FileCan is a rev 45. I tried a couple of different pressures based on my experience with the cam lok. First was pretty light, then moderately light, then finally I tightened the piss out of it. All had the same result of loosening after 5-9 rounds. Any ideas? |
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Posted: 3/13/2023 9:18:54 PM EDT
[#1]
Which part of the interface is loosening -- can to adapter? Adapter to barrel? Etc
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Posted: 3/13/2023 9:25:09 PM EDT
[#2]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Which part of the interface is loosening -- can to adapter? Adapter to barrel? Etc Can to adapter. Barrel adapter torqued per specs and never have a problem. |
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Posted: 3/13/2023 9:55:56 PM EDT
[#3]
Weird.
Been using EZ-Lok with a 2011, G17, Mod9 SK, and Obsidian. Works like it’s supposed to. How tight do you snug the can to the muzzle adapter? |
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Posted: 3/13/2023 9:59:09 PM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Can to adapter. Barrel adapter torqued per specs and never have a problem. Maybe lubricate the taper in the can, and put a little more torque on that. The first time I took out Cam-Lok I tightened it as if I had arthritis and was old, because I've talked to old guys at gun shows around 2007 worried about that (that I could remember). I shot 45 rounds before it loosened. Cam-Lok is less secure than EZ-lok. We have had EZ lok at sales events on the road and have shot 300 rounds without retightening. If you don't have some kind of weird manufacturing defect like a missing front radius on the muzzle adaptor or something, EZ-Lok should be working. It just needs approximately 24-30 inch lbs of torque on installation. I can put 70 inch lbs on a screwdriver with one hand. 24-30 doesn't require much effort. |
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Posted: 3/13/2023 10:06:52 PM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Maybe lubricate the taper in the can, and put a little more torque on that. The first time I took out Cam-Lok I tightened it as if I had arthritis and was old, because I've talked to old guys at gun shows around 2007 worried about that (that I could remember). I shot 45 rounds before it loosened. Cam-Lok is less secure than EZ-lok. We have had EZ lok at sales events on the road and have shot 300 rounds without retightening. If you don't have some kind of weird manufacturing defect like a missing front radius on the muzzle adaptor or something, EZ-Lok should be working. It just needs approximately 24-30 inch lbs of torque on installation. I can put 70 inch lbs on a screwdriver with one hand. 24-30 doesn't require much effort. Ok, I will try that and report back. |
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Posted: 3/20/2023 9:39:15 PM EDT
[#6]
Any update?
I used my CGS SK with EZ-Lok on 2 different pistols today, about 100 rounds on 1, 200 on the other. The warmer the can gets, the tighter the lock up. Can has to cool down quite a bit before you can get it off the barrel adapter/muzzle device, which is the way it should be. Something else I noticed today . . . I have somewhere North of 1k rounds through one of the guns with the EZ-Lok adapter. I noticed today that there is quite a lot of carbon (not lead, I’m using CMJ bullets) in the gap between the end of the muzzle and the inside lip of the barrel adapter. So much so, that the bullets will soon be touching that buildup upon exiting the muzzle. Which can’t be a good thing. Cans are filthy, stuff happens. Something to be aware of, though. I didn’t get a pic yet but will take one before I try to remove it. *Update 3-22-23* Took a bronze brush and a bronze punch as a scraper to it and knocked off the big chunks of carbon. Took about 30 seconds. Also note that the taper does a very good job of keeping the threads clean. Here are some before photos: https://share.icloud.com/photos/09dM8L7w8O8uzjcF5lFYj4Isw https://share.icloud.com/photos/0d6NBO4BjWb06jaWRj_WiESzQ https://share.icloud.com/photos/091YOsphiz8HTknHncJq5uQoA |
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Posted: 3/21/2023 10:51:43 AM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Any update? I used my CGS SK with EZ-Lok on 2 different pistols today, about 100 rounds on 1, 200 on the other. The warmer the can gets, the tighter the lock up. Can has to cool down quite a bit before you can get it off the barrel adapter/muzzle device, which is the way it should be. Something else I noticed today . . . I have somewhere North of 1k rounds through one of the guns with the EZ-Lok adapter. I noticed today that there is quite a lot of carbon (not lead, I’m using CMJ bullets) in the gap between the end of the muzzle and the inside lip of the barrel adapter. So much so, that the bullets will soon be touching that buildup upon exiting the muzzle. Which can’t be a good thing. Cans are filthy, stuff happens. Something to be aware of, though. I didn’t get a pic yet but will take one before I try to remove it. My two boys put a brick of .22lr through a pistol as I loaded magazines for them a couple weeks ago. I saw the same lead build up. In my cleaning kit I have an m1-garand gas cylinder plug wrench, and it happened to be a close diameter for use as a carbor scraper to clean that. It worked fairly well. I’m not sure if the build up would be a problem. HK MP5 three lig mounts have been in use a long time and have a tight bore also like that. I don’t think I’ve ever heard of issues. |
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Posted: 3/21/2023 1:11:00 PM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Something else I noticed today . . . I have somewhere North of 1k rounds through one of the guns with the EZ-Lok adapter. I noticed today that there is quite a lot of carbon (not lead, I'm using CMJ bullets) in the gap between the end of the muzzle and the inside lip of the barrel adapter. So much so, that the bullets will soon be touching that buildup upon exiting the muzzle. Which can't be a good thing. |
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Posted: 3/21/2023 1:14:19 PM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Maybe lubricate the taper in the can, and put a little more torque on that. The first time I took out Cam-Lok I tightened it as if I had arthritis and was old, because I've talked to old guys at gun shows around 2007 worried about that (that I could remember). I shot 45 rounds before it loosened. Cam-Lok is less secure than EZ-lok. We have had EZ lok at sales events on the road and have shot 300 rounds without retightening. If you don't have some kind of weird manufacturing defect like a missing front radius on the muzzle adaptor or something, EZ-Lok should be working. It just needs approximately 24-30 inch lbs of torque on installation. I can put 70 inch lbs on a screwdriver with one hand. 24-30 doesn't require much effort. Would it make sense to use anti-seize on the EZ-Lok threads, taper, or both? |
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Posted: 3/21/2023 6:04:50 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Would it make sense to use anti-seize on the EZ-Lok threads, taper, or both? I do. Don't know if it helps but it makes sense to me. |
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Posted: 3/21/2023 6:06:50 PM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted: My two boys put a brick of .22lr through a pistol as I loaded magazines for them a couple weeks ago. I saw the same lead build up. In my cleaning kit I have an m1-garand gas cylinder plug wrench, and it happened to be a close diameter for use as a carbor scraper to clean that. It worked fairly well. I’m not sure if the build up would be a problem. HK MP5 three lig mounts have been in use a long time and have a tight bore also like that. I don’t think I’ve ever heard of issues. This carbon buildup should be self limiting. Just like any other muzzle device. Doesn't hurt to clean it every now and then though. |
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Posted: 3/21/2023 6:58:44 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Would it make sense to use anti-seize on the EZ-Lok threads, taper, or both? i use aero shell on both and it seems to help, no marring or anything out of the ordinary. ive never ran it completely dry and dont ever plan to. i wouldnt hesitate to use anti seize, although you dont need a lot. |
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Posted: 3/21/2023 7:13:10 PM EDT
[#13]
I just put the lock-cease 20-20 on the ID taper. That way there is no mess, and there is no friction on the interface. The system will work the best with a little lubrication on the taper.
With anti-sieze compounds, I would stick to lock-cease or a gun oil, as the solids are either non existent or very fine, whereas some anti-seize compounds probably have larger materials in them that could potentially work against alignment. |
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Posted: 3/22/2023 1:18:41 AM EDT
[#14]
@ Green0 - copy that on the buildup. Even it wouldn’t be a problem, I don’t plan on letting it go much more.
Periodic maintenance, to include of mounting systems, is just a natural part of can ownership. And nothing against the Ez-Lok. I love how well it works! |
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Posted: 3/22/2023 3:14:08 AM EDT
[#15]
Thanks for the positive feedback.
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Posted: 3/22/2023 8:49:12 AM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Any update? I used my CGS SK with EZ-Lok on 2 different pistols today, about 100 rounds on 1, 200 on the other. The warmer the can gets, the tighter the lock up. Can has to cool down quite a bit before you can get it off the barrel adapter/muzzle device, which is the way it should be. Something else I noticed today . . . I have somewhere North of 1k rounds through one of the guns with the EZ-Lok adapter. I noticed today that there is quite a lot of carbon (not lead, I’m using CMJ bullets) in the gap between the end of the muzzle and the inside lip of the barrel adapter. So much so, that the bullets will soon be touching that buildup upon exiting the muzzle. Which can’t be a good thing. Cans are filthy, stuff happens. Something to be aware of, though. I didn’t get a pic yet but will take one before I try to remove it. Need to get out and shoot it, but I did lubricate as directed. It seems to be much harder to get off than before just taking it on and off. I think maybe that was the problem. |
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Posted: 4/17/2023 11:22:08 AM EDT
[#17]
Got it out today. Same thing. About 4-5 rounds and it’s loose. I wonder if it could be my piston?
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Posted: 4/18/2023 12:52:12 PM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Got it out today. Same thing. About 4-5 rounds and it’s loose. I wonder if it could be my piston? clean the taper/mating surfaces. have you been doing this? |
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Posted: 4/18/2023 12:53:12 PM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted: clean the taper/mating surfaces. have you been doing this? Yup. And oiled the taper on the can. |
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Posted: 4/18/2023 5:01:31 PM EDT
[#20]
are the tapered surfaces seem like theyre wearing evenly?
at this point in time id probably send it back to griffin. those guys are great. i ovalized an adapter and took credit for it and they still replaced it for free. |
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Posted: 4/18/2023 8:24:51 PM EDT
[#21]
The picture is a little confusing as you have a tilt barrel pistol, but I don't see a piston in the photo- the color of the piston is typically a heat treated 17-4 color tan, or gold or brown. I can't see the piston in the photo.
If you have an EZ lok piston, and there is a loosening issue, the piston and the adapter should probably get seen by customer service. I don't know what would cause this. I do know that a nitrider destroyed a large batch of parts by using some bazaar abrasive blasting media that erroded parts, but those parts were all trashed. Parts that are properly made and interfaced shouldn't be loosening. |
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Posted: 4/18/2023 8:27:53 PM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryQuoted: The picture is a little confusing as you have a tilt barrel pistol, but I don't see a piston in the photo- the color of the piston is typically a heat treated 17-4 color tan, or gold or brown. I can't see the piston in the photo. If you have an EZ lok piston, and there is a loosening issue, the piston and the adapter should probably get seen by customer service. I don't know what would cause this. I do know that a nitrider destroyed a large batch of parts by using some bazaar abrasive blasting media that erroded parts, but those parts were all trashed. Parts that are properly made and interfaced shouldn't be loosening.  Attached File Attached FileGotcha. I’ll contact CS. |
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Posted: 4/18/2023 9:12:44 PM EDT
[#23]
I think CS is a good idea. This problem doesn't really make sense. There is no torque limit for EZ lock, so the only thing I could think is maybe it is not tight enough. Or I guess if somehow the threads aren't actually going together to the point the taper engages, that would be a way for it not to work. I've never seen that, but anything could happen I guess.
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Posted: 4/18/2023 9:47:17 PM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I think CS is a good idea. This problem doesn't really make sense. There is no torque limit for EZ lock, so the only thing I could think is maybe it is not tight enough. Or I guess if somehow the threads aren't actually going together to the point the taper engages, that would be a way for it not to work. I've never seen that, but anything could happen I guess. So maybe that’s where I’m confused. I assumed it was a torque limit like the cam lok. So I can just crank down as hard as I can without worry about damaging anything? I apparently messed up my cam lok piston from putting too much torque to it. |
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Posted: 4/18/2023 11:45:21 PM EDT
[#25]
I've never had to put a lot of torque on mine. Matter of fact, since I like to swap the can around I barely tighten it. After a few shots I have to work to remove it due to the heat tightening the taper. Any tighter and I have to wait until it cools fully to remove it.
Yours sounds... weird. |
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Posted: 4/19/2023 8:19:14 PM EDT
[#26]
Unlike Cam-lok there are no interruptions in an EZ lok threaded joint so to pop through, you would have to rupture the part. I haven't seen that happen yet. That would require putting two wrenches on the parts and putting a massive torque on the parts.
Like the poster above said, your experience doesn't totally make sense, so it may make sense to have CS take a look at it. My experience of EZ lok has been like the poster above, that fairly minimal torque can retain the parts, and that sometimes they are more difficult to remove than to attach. |
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