What are the downsides to Benelli M1 Super 90 for a starter 3 gun shotgun? Used in this case. Just add an extended tube and GTG?

Thanks in advance

You'll see a lot of people go to a enlarged safety & load button.

The M1 Super 90 gives a good kick too (recoil - inertia so no smoothing like gas operated shotguns)

I've loved mine.

Bigger_Hammer

How does it compare to say an 11-87?

Do you think there are better entry options that are gas operated?

The Remington 11-87 is gas operated, but the gas ports on a 11-87 slug barrel are reduced on the assumption the shooter will be using high brass buckshot - slugs.

So, folks find their 11-87 shoots wonderfully with a "bird barrel" (because it retains the Automatic Gas Regulation system) but then are upset when the same gun won't shoot the lightest low brass loads with the slug barrel on it.  

While I like the 11-87 for hunting shotgun (a bit heavier for smoother swing + less recoil with the gas operation), I think between those two, that the M1 Super 90 is "better" for 3 gun if you are shooting low brass as most matches do.  

There are some folks who will take a 1100 and bore out the gas holes on a slug barrel to allow more gas to operate low brass lighter shells.

Bigger_Hammer

I have an 11-87 and Benelli. Benelli all day long. It points like an extension of my finger.

Love mine , but for competition maybe add a larger safety & load button as already suggested.

 It feels so much different from any other semi auto shotgun I've shot.  Like the Remington 1100 , 11-87 or Winchester 1400.

 It will also feed a mixture of any ammo as fast as u can pull.

I shot an 1100 for early 3 gun (1995-2015) for about 10 ;years until I got tired of replacing parts, and a 21" M1S90 for10 years with never a problem (( except at Ft Benning at 26F where it was a bolt action for 3 shots due to cold soak of cartridges and wrong lube, and possibly too many layers of clothing... changing lube to INOX MX3 solved the lubrication problem) ... I added at Briley extended tube,....ran a tapered end mill around to break the edges of the loading port...drilled and tapped the bolt release button, and added a short section of aluminum for extended bolt release... loctited in a Light Modified choke tube,... added a 3/8" neoprene cheek riser to the comb to raise point of impact... added 10/22 flip up rear sight and triangular light pipe fiber optic to gain point of aim/impact for use with slugs, though I shot it with the sights up even for birdshot.... used a mild abrasive cratex bullet to slightly round and polish the front edge of the shell lift... there is a "U" shaped cutout that can trap your finger... it  cut little circular divots in my loading hand thumb until I figured out what was happening... others  had their lifter welded up and re shaped....mine will shoot 7/8oz Fiocchi Aero and 1oz Federal reduced law enforcement slugs into 3" at 75m at same point of aim

I ran a 7 shot velcro side saddle that was only loaded during matches... as an inertia gun so be aware that you need some recoil movement to make the action work... I later added a 28" M2 barrel and M2 fore end as a skeet and clays gun

Pics or links to the larger load button?

Fo on a M1S90. By far my favorite shotgun.
The only downside I’ve ran across is mine’s receiver is drilled and tapped for an odd pattern mount. I bought a Burris Speedbead for a Benelli M2/SBE, which required a fair amount of fitting to get fit properly.
As someone stated before, they point like an extension of your body. Very nice handling shotguns and they run like a hot damn.

The 11-87 was an OK shotgun when it was the only option.

The 1100 and 11-87 release a shell from the mag tube after the bolt opens. An extended magazine full of shells move forward in the tube under recoil ("shell surge") which can foul up the action operation and feeding. The Inertia operated guns (and Beretta gas guns) release a shell from the magazine tube when the hammer falls which makes for a more reliable feeding sequence.

The Benelli M2 is the most used shotgun in 3 Gun, the M1 is just the M2's older brother. Mechanically they are the same guns. You cannot  go wrong with a M2 or M1 as an entry, or top level, shotgun.

The Beretta 1301 is the best gas operated shotgun for 3 gun type use, but the M1/M2 still reigns supreme due to its reliability (as long as you use ammo that will operate the inertia action. ie: Don't try to shoot ammo less than 1150 fps and 1 1/8 oz of shot)

M1 Super 90 is one of those guns that was done so right that it just can't be improved on much.  I've been shooting 3 gun for decades and It seems every couple years there is some new hotness in shotguns that everyone rushes out to buy and leaves everyone disappointed after a season or two of fighting issues caused by either design or manufacturing.

Besides the open shooters, there's two competitors- those who chase the new shotgun designs every season and there's everyone else who shoot the tried and true Benelli.

I've put thousands of rounds through mine and the only issue it's ever had is the magazine spring weakening from substantial use.  There's a reason that the guys who make a living with a shotgun like the guys who get paid to cull wolves and coyotes from airplanes and helos use them.

Poster above is correct about the M1 and M2.  I believe all of the internal parts, and for the most part, the external.parts are interchangeable.  The only real difference is the shape of the back of the receiver where the stock mounts.

The best modification one can do to an M1 or M2 is to put a soft recoil pad on it like a.limbsaver.  More than for comfort, it helps with the operation.  It's possible to induce a malfunction in the inertial operation guns by holding it too tightly and/or by adding mass via shell holders, lights, etc..  The softer recoil pad will allow the gun to move under recoil when it's held tightly.  

A guy I used to compete with had an M1 S90 with a surefire fore end and shell holder mounted on it.  He just compensated by shooting nothing but high brass magnum loads through it.  Any other shotgun would have been beaten apart from a steady diet of Magnum pheasant loads every other weekend.

from Mr Benny Hill... the magazine spring (for an M1S90) should be 13" longer than the installed length of the magazine tube... I had to shorten the spring for my M1S90s Briley tube to 12" length to shoot some slightly longer slugs... one year at Ft Benning the house clearing required 22 slugs

So if I have a 28in barrel and want to add a mag tube what would you suggest not to mess up the recoil system? Is this an add the mag tube shorten the barrel thing? Especially if I add a placard shell holder on the receiver.  Any ideal parts or parts to avoid?

Just put a softer recoil pad on it and test it to determine the minimum load that will cycle it reliably.  I use 3 dram loads at a minimum in mine, but mine has the pistol grip stock which tends to reduce some of the recoil and therefore requires a slightly hotter load to reliably cycle that one with a standard stock and I'm fairly large and tend to hold the gun pretty tightly.

I got good reliability with my 21" M1S90 LM choke with a 8+1 and 7 on the side saddle with Federal 3 dram 1 1/8oz loads...the 28" was shot with factory tube... my perception was that was about all the weight I wanted to hang on the gun... I know some of the guys had a slightly longer tube on the 23" so they could load an extra couple after the buzzer and first shot

The whole “don't add weight” to a Benelli thing is way over blown if you use decent quality ammo...and it does not have to be extra hot,fast “high brass” ammo/

I know of many, many M1 or M2 guns that will run just fine with 15 shells weighing down the guns (12 in the tube, 1 in the chamber, 1 in the “ghost load” position, and 1 in a Match saver). We are talking factory spring set up and 3 dram (1200 fps) 1 1/18 oz target loads.

@RedFox1911

 There are so many different sources , sizes & styles to choose from.  Start here and find something you like.

Just changing the recoil pad made a world of difference for me. Mine came with the triangle safety and I can confirm it’s great.

There are no downsides to using an M1/M2.

I love mine -till I fire it.  Then I remember why I call it The Mule!  

But, it's light (see above Mule comment), points well, very reliable, it's a great shotgun.

Now on mine, when as new, it would cycle with 1 oz trap loads.  Then I had the barrel ported, and most of the time, it will just about kick a fired 1 oz shell out, but not all the way.  If there's only one round in the gun it has a better chance.

But no issues with anything heavier power, and certainly no issues with buckshot or slugs (ouch.  Sighing in an M1 off a bench with slugs is not a fun day).

Have the load port shaped and polished. Beware of Benelux thumb, will eat anything.  Get the extension tube and be careful of the weight on the receiver.

I have a M1S90 factory SBS and thought it kicked bad also until I put a limbsaver butt pad on it. The factory pad was very hard and did not give much. You might want to consider replacing the butt pad if you have not already. I really enjoy shooting it now and take it out almost every time I got shooting.

I have a M1S90.  Mine in particular did not like the pistol grip stock and added flashlight at the end of the gun when using LOW RECOIL loads. I have since replaced it with a shortened straight stock with Kickeez buttpad and no light.  Works flawlessly now even with a Nordic +5 mag extension.

Beware of Benelli thumb like mentioned.  Happened to me once and I had the extension added to the carrier.  A big bolt knob, bolt release and big safety makes manipulation very easy.

Modify to ghost load if you want that feature.

I had a 1100, but the gun was very heavy and didn't point nearly as well as the Benelli.  I hated the loading button on the 1100, even when I had the Dave Metal works Easyloader.

The only plus side to 1100 over M1s90 is the price of parts for the 1100 are cheaper, like barrels and such.

At the end of the day I sold off the 110 and kept the M1S90.

Thanks, I'll try that.

There seem to be two version for the Benelli, which one have people used, and which one do you all recommend?

Model 10403 -- Benelli Tactical Pistol Grip Stocks (bolt-on pad)
Model 10404 -- Benelli Tactical Pistol Grip Stocks (pop-in pad)

Have to chuckle about the shell lifter for the Benelli.  It's as if they designed it to be just the right length to catch your thumb between it and the front of the receiver!  There are longer shell lifters for sale that elimate this, but I just make sure I push the shell in with purpose and then pull my hand back.

I am pretty sure I got the 10403, I just remove the limbsaver from my M1 and there are no model markings on the pad. Too swap out butt pads all I had to do was remove the 2 screws from the factor pad and transfer them to the limbsaver pad, then tighten everything down.

If I were you I would contact Limbsaver and verify the pad that is proper for your stock before you order.

eta: you are spot on with the lifter, I got a extended one from C-Rums for my M2 and will get one for my M1.

eta2: I bought two, one for myself and one for my buddy. I just called him since has not installed it yet. It is a model 10403.

Thanks, I'll get it (have heard good things about it before just too lazy to really hunt one down) and see how it works.

Correct!

I hunt with an original HK M1S90 (no tactical shooting with it) and have probably 30,000 rounds thru it.  Only other gun I liked shooting more was my Krieghoff

M1S90 is recoil operated not gas

Own one in 26" vent rib barrel, great for a skeet and sporting clays gun.

• Put on a slip on recoil pad
• The extractor spring broke some years back and had it replaced.
• Had to replace the firing pin retaining pin O ring

Attached File

A hint to those with M1s or SBEs The firing pin retaining pin O ring can be purchased at your local hardware store for about $.20 and not the absurd prices "online gun places" charge.  I think I carry about 10 in my hunting bag and replace them at least once per year, need it or not.

I replaced all the springs in my HK M1S90 this spring for around a $100 bucks and will be good for a few seasons (after Benelli replaced them under warranty, years before)

After a first shot of the week,  bolt issue in Saskatchewan a number of years ago, a spare bolt and trigger lives in my hunting bag, they are cheap on Ebay of all places.....

The only “downside” I’ve experienced is the heavy perceived recoil. You notice it compared with other guns but it is not unmanageable.

If you were near me, which you aren't, I would offer to bring my M1 and M2(both has limbsaver pads installed) and we could hit the range together. You could shoot your gun then mine and see the difference. I have personally noticed a large improvement in felt recoil since changing butt pads.

I was skeptical about the whole Limbsaver “70% felt recoil reduction” claim. I figured it was just a marketing ploy. However, I had to replace a broken recoil pad on a 10 gauge single-shot shotgun and Limbsaver had a pre-fit model that was the right size (just had to relocate the screw holes) so I figured I would give it a try. Frankly, all I was hoping for was a recoil pad that fit.  

I was amazed how much the new Limbsaver pad actually mitigated the stout recoil from that 10 gauge shotgun, even when firing 3.5” shells. It was a night and day difference. It made the gun much more controllable.

When they first came out I bought mine direct from HK . I think it was 400 bucks dealer pricing . Anyway nice gun but they kick like a mule .

So is the magazine tub attached like the M2 is and needs heat? How am I supposed to take out the old mag spring assembly?

You do not have to remove the factory magazine tube from the receiver to change the spring on the M1or M2.

Look at the other end of the mag tube (with the forearm cap removed) and you should see a cap pressed into the end of the mag tube. Pull that cap piece out and the spring, plug (if it has one), and follower will come flying out.