You can move the indicator plate but you need to disassemble the eyepiece somewhat. If the diopter adjustment stops just before +2 then the plate is roughly at the right location, but if not, then if you absolutely want to you can move it.
Even if it does not stop close to +2, but is in any useful range, for example you can adjust the numbers from +1 (or even just slightly positive) to -2, then that should be enough for normal use and you can just screw in or out the whole eyepiece to reset the zero diopter.
If you want it to be as precisely aligned as possible then you will need a magnifying diopter scope to peek into the eyepiece while doing the adjustment, but two other easy methods are:
- loosen the locking ring by turning it clockwise (looking from behind the unit). Grab it gently with your thumb & index finger making as even pressure as possible and turn.
- now you can grab the eyepiece in the same manner. Grab the larger outer part of it, that which was touching the locking ring
- set diopter mark to zero and see to which direction you needed to go to zero, were you at the plus or minus side
- if the setting you run normally with was on the plus side, you need to turn the eyepiece counter clockwise to bring it further from the tube. If it was on the negative side, you need to turn the eyepiece clockwise to screw it toward the tube
- so basically you are adjusting diopter by turning the whole eyepiece (moving the lens cell in / out, just as adjusting diopter normally does)
- now as the indicator is showing zero, either:
1. look at the image with your eye while you turn the whole eyepiece and stop when the image becomes sharp
2. grab a camera, focus it to the stars (either manually, or after autofocus disable it so the focus remains the same. Or if it shows you the focus range in meters anything >70m is good), and then turn the eyepiece while looking at the eyepiece through the camera to see when it is the sharpest (gets you closer to real zero than with your eye, even with corrective glasses if you need such)
- retighten the lock ring
If the diopter indicator plate is all wonky, or the adjustment range is not sufficient, then you need to do further disassembly. The whole procedure is best understood by reading the technical manual that you can find searching google for "7451865 PVS-14 TM-11-5855-306-23-P" (one of the first results)
This applies to a mono only. In a bino if you don't have access to collimation equipment and want to retain collimation, you need to mark up the angle of the whole eyepiece assy after you adjust anything so that you can place it at the same position it was. If you need to take the lens cell out, then marking the angle of the lens cell is important as that is the part is offset to enable collimation adjustments.
I don't think almost anyone cares what the indicator plate is showing. You will be fiddling with it anyway. Especially with a bino, storing it can touch the diopter focus ring and throw either side off by a little and a mismatch between sides will show when next used. In a mono such small changes don't matter nor are visible. But even then the indicator plates are so coarse that they are almost useless anyway.
Edit: I just reread your post, and somehow the clock positions you wrote flew past me. Seems it is enough far off that you indeed would need to either move the indicator plate, or take out the whole eyepiece from the PVS-14 body and put the lens cell on another set of threads. The indicator plate can be moved by taking of the snap ring on top of the diopter focus ring, rotating the focus ring so that it lifts up just a bit, and then move the indicator plate to a place where you wish. Turn focus back and reinstall snap ring. You won't loose the seal doing this nor if you are resetting the zero (which you will need to do anyway if it is off). You may break the seal if you turn the eyepiece out too much and the O-ring pops out. There is quite a bit of threading on the housing, but it is possible to pop it off depending on where it is set now. Probably it is screwed pretty much all the way in though.