I've had this SS600 for 15 years or better. I seldom use it. I find I get a better primer crimp removal with a common deburring tool as long as I don't get overly aggressive with it, but it's a hand killer if I have a high number to do.

I think the SS600 should work better than it does. I want to use it more but I can't get it to a point that the primers insert easily. It swages the pockets fine, or so it seems, but I always have a hard time seating the primer. They go in roughly and most times deform a bit, and I can't abide that.

I don't mind to keep using the deburring tool, but it's just so laborius.

Is there another option for swaging that will allow easy primer insertion. Perhaps a press mounted solution?

I have used the reamers from hornady or Lyman. They work pretty good. No issues at all.

Lately I have used the RCBS swager kit. goes in a die and swages the pocket. It works like advertised and I am impressed.

Yeah, I don't know what to do. It takes about 6 twists with a deburr tool, in an already overworked arm. I can get by with 2 or 3 twists if I use the SS600 first, but this adds a whole other step. Looks like I'm going to have to break down and just buy one of those prep centers. Any recommendation on one of those?

I have tried a bunch of solutions.

RCBS single stage press swager. Too much force to release handle. It hurt my carpal tunnel. Pockets were still tight. Very slow process.
Dillon Super Swage. Much faster but even sorting by headstamp the primer seating force was not consistant.
Hornady Primer Pocket reamer. Works excellent. Nice consistant primer seating force. Use in a drill it goes fast. Hurts my carpal tunnel after a hundred or so cases.
Swage-It on press swager for Dillon 650XL press. It worked ok not terrific. Still got 2-3 crushed primers per 100 cases. It does not roll the edge over.

I just bought the on press swager for the Hornday LnL AP press. I have not tried it yet. Maybe next weekend. If this works I will make the case feeder work for feeding it.

Yeah, I like the RCBS Swager 2 kit also.  No tedious hand work and no particle residue from reaming.

I can't tell you what's wrong with it but i'll bet you something is wrong with it.

I don't have that issue at all with my super swage (im no rocket scientists) it took me 20+ years to realize dillon sent me a fubard carbide sizing die ........... They made it right.

Have you tried calling tech support?

I also use the Hornady reamer. I chuck it up in a cheap corded drill, lock it in my vise, set the trigger on the drill, then go to town.

I use this

http://swageit.com/

it works great

decap, trim, swage, resize with each pull of the handle

I guess I got a good one, it's not set it and forget for mixed brass, but I think it's an excellent efficient tool.

Love mine, and I've done tens of thousands of 9mm and 5.56.

I've got the inserts from Inline Fabrication as well -- they seem to center the swager in the pockets.

I had a SS, sold it.

I used the Hornady reamer for years, but a recent case prep blitz of 5000+ cases of LC/WCC along with some random non crimped sent me looking for a better solution.

Bought a Hornady swage kit and loved it, youtube showed me a simple finished case "guide" to minimize handling and it was rock n roll to the finish line.

I found a good set point that "so far" has worked with all headstamps to give an acceptable swage. I couldn't be happier.

I know a retired machinist that uses the Hornady swege on a LNL, he made a set up adapt a case feeder and chute to drop the brass into a bucket. He sweges around 800 rds an hour. I have used some of his brass and they prime very well

Only reason I didn't buy the Hornady is I load on Dillons. If I scored a cheap used LNL I would buy the swege kit.

For smaller batches I used a Lyman primer in small drill press.

What dryflash said.

I got the 223 one for my LNL. I love it and have had zero issues with over 5k various mil brass processed in the last year or so. Once I got it set up I havent made an adjustment and I just feed it whatever and have good results. One tip though, resize your brass first. If the mouth is pinched closed any it may not fit on the post, or hang up (not come off) in the eject die. I spray lube in the neck, body, and a shot in the primer pockets. Resize in one run, reset the press and swage while the lube is fresh.

Keep an eye of eBay for one of the old Pro-Jector presses.  The LNL swage kit will work just fine and you can dedicate a press solely to swaging.  Assuming you have room on your bench.

I tried the Swagit. I think it’s a good idea in theory, but it doesn’t swage the primer pockets as much as I like. I contacted the company and they sent me another of a slightly bigger size and it’s still not right. I went back to the Super Swage.

The RCBS unit works very well, but it takes a bit of trial-and-error work to get it adjusted precisely to the point where the primer pockets are adequately swaged. However, this is a one time adjustment. Once this is done, the process goes fairly quickly.

I can make room

#2 Phillips bit in my drill has removed many thousands of primer crimps.

I think it comes down to what you can figure out how to set up, all one has to do is read posts like this and some guys don't have a problems with one brand or the other then there is another guy that thinks it sucks. I have no problem setting up and using the Super Swager, set it up 6 or 7 years ago to do 223 brass and have not messed with the settings since for any brand of brass. If I ever need to do another large run of 223 mil brass I just might have to try the Hornady swager on the LNL just for the fact it looks faster and a lot less brass handling.

Love mine for this very reason

Most of my brass is from a belt fed MG.  Its beat up.  What I've been doing for years is I Size, Swage, Trim on a 650.  Since I do not sort brass before hand, some of the brass is not swaged correctly (probably < 10%).  The MG beats up the case heads really bad and I need to check and remove any large dings (with a file) in the rim or they may get stuck in the T-slot of MG bolt (not fun when its not feeding correctly).  So I have to inspect all rounds.  I've bought a set of Go/NoGo pocket gauges.  While checking the rim, I check the pockets.  If the Go gauge won't go in, I use my Super Swage.  99 out of 100, after the Super Swage, the Go gauge goes in.  The ones that don't I put on the side and may for may not follow up with a Primer pocket uniformer (it all depends on time and how many failed the gauge test).  So every round that have been processed are now GTO !  But sometimes there still is a pocket that pasted the test but still is extremely tight so they have to get extracted.  Its not perfect but works for me.

What others have said...............  I have one but don't use it.

What I found was you need to adjust it for cases each time if you want a good swage.............

( A burr on the inside of the flash hole or difference in thickness of the web WILL throw it off)

I use a "center" for that now............  take your pick of motorized accessory and get it done...........

I have used Dillon's swager for over 25 years and love it.

You have to separate brass by headstamps and adjust the tool to fit each brand if brass.

The swager has to fully enter the primer pocket or it won't do the job. A bright light and magnification will help you set the tool up properly.

You want the swager head to enter the pocket completely until flush, but no more.

Anyone using these to help remove crimp?

https://ballistictools.com/store/reloading-products/case-and-ammunition-gauges/small-and-large-primer-pocket-gauges

We use those to set / test when we set up for a different headstamp.

Makes set up a non issue Imo.

My brother didnt have the right teqnique so we also have the inline fabrication centering spacers which eliminates the need for technique to make it centered.

Its not the tool for someone using mixed headstamp brass.

Using it for sizable runs of same kind of brass it works fine imo.

Every year on the Memorial Day weekend we have a Family and Friends shoot. During the shoot, we test reloading equipment against each other to find the "best". This year we tested Case Prep Centers. We have one guy that has a Frankford Arsenal Platinum Series Case and Trim Center another guy has the RCBS Universal Case Prep Center, And I have the Hornady L-N-L Case Prep Center. All though there are other prep centers these are the only three we had to test. Some other one might be better but that is something you will have to test.

First, we had two 15 min runs on each prep center each. The owner of the prep center did all the set up to make it fair.

The first one tested was the Frankford Arsenal It only has three prep stations. We set it up with a chamfer, a deburr, and a neck brush.
On the plus side, it did do an average of 92 pieces of brass every 15 min. On the negative side, it took forever to set up the trimmer.  It threw brass everywhere. The trim was within .0002. The footprint was in-between the RCBS and the Hornady, needing about 10" X 16" of workroom without setting it up on end. And if you need to do the primer pockets you would have to reconfigure the prep stations due to only three prep stations.

The next one tested was the RCBS. Now. the RCBS has 6 prep stations with two of them that rotate a lot faster than the other four. It was set up with the chamfer, deburr, neck brush, military crimp pocket reamer, flash hole deburrer and pocket brush.
Now for the plus side, It processed 63 pieces of brass on average for each 15 min. run. The trim was within .0001. The RCBS trimmer is spring feed. You put the handle down and the spring feed will trim the brass as you use the case prep stations with another piece of brass that you had just trimmed. It all so does not require a collet. Once you get used to loading the brass it is quite easy to do. It also has a micrometer for adjusting the trim and is fairly accurate. Now, for the negative. The RCBS requires the largest setup area the footprint is huge. You also get brass shavings everywhere. The motor did bog down when using the prep stations.

The last one tested was my Hornady case prep center. It also has 6 prep stations. It was set up with the chamfer, deburr, neck brush, military crimp pocket reamer, flash hole deburrer and a primer pocket uniformer.
Now for the plus side, The trim was within .0001. The adjustment handle has little knobs that let you adjust every .0001 and is very accurate. It has the smallest footprint of all tested. The brass shavings are collected into two trays that can easily be removed and dumped. Now, for the negative. The Hornady only did 61 pieces of brass on average for each 15 min. run.

My final analysis is this: If you want to do a bunch of brass quickly and swage your brass and don't need to do anything to the pockets and don't care about trim accuracy and brass shavings all over the place get the Frankford or even two they only cost about $180.00 each. If you have a lot of space and don't care about brass shavings getting everywhere get the RCBS. They cost about $315.00 each. Now if space is at a premium and cleanliness is important to you get the Hornady they cost about $450.00 each.

This is excellent info. Thanks for taking the time to post it.

I got by this time using a makeshift prep center. I have an old tabletop drill press that I just chucked up a deburring tool in and layed the whole contraption on it's side. I cut the crimp out of about 500 mostly IMI cases in about an hour, maybe a bit over. It was pretty easy and I didn't have to twist my wrist or shoulder. Just pushed the pocket onto the deburr tool for about a second and it was done. Very minimal cut and very few do-overs as I was priming. This method was also faster than the SS600.

I'm going to experiment with it and maybe refine my process some and also look into the prep centers you described. Thanks again for the info.

Any updates? Curious about getting a case feeder to work with the swager.

I also ment to add that I did contact Dillon, and they did send me a new small swage rod. I haven't tried it yet, but the problem really couldn't be anything else. I have processed many thousand small pockets on the old swage rod. Seems unusual that steel would be worn down by swaging brass, but I have no other explanation since in the earlier years I seem to remember it swaged fine. I remember doing a 5000 count lot with it back in the late 90's and all those primed fine. I guess its closer to 20yrs old.

And thanks to all who addressed my question.

I don't care for the Swage It either. There's no way to adjust the height of the button or the depth of the Swage. It is all based on feel.

Nothing I'm aware of beats a 1050 for processing brass. The second best option is probably the Hornady AP swage conversion.

My Swage has always come out fine and my primers slide right in (almost to the point that I was worried the primer pocket was over swaged), but I find the Dillon SS just as tedious.  It doesn't hurt your hand like hand reaming, but it's still tedious.

I do wonder if your swager isn't set up correctly, It sounds like it may not be swaging deep enough...

I bought the Swage-It for my Dillon 650.. (yeah, yeah here comes all the Dillon Warranty nut jobs)..

Anyway, I'm not completely happy with that either, because of the up stroke process swaging.

I am seriously looking into the Hornady LNL AP with the Swaging kit. Having it setup for Dedicated swaging.  I think the Downstroke swaging process will be much superior and I should be able to process brass by the thousands in short order.

I really do wish Hornady would release an LNL AP Swager, where it is setup to be a swager and not include the PM, or shell plate, or priming system, etc.  I wrote them an E-Mail suggesting that as a Dedicated Swager, they said they would forward my idea/request to the new products team, so it was probably filed in the trash can.  But I think that would sell like hot cakes and would likely be the best Swaging solution on the market.

-Masta

Swaging on the LNL is tedious. It is just a faster version...

I think a good option, if you want to use the LNL for swaging exclusively, is to buy the complete press and then sell the power and primer parts on Ebay.

And while we're wishing for Hornady to come out with a dedicated press, I would like to see them make a 9mm system.  I'm surprised they don't already sell one.

What is tedious about swaging on the LNL?

It actually works very well.

Still, it is one extra step in the loading process.

Here's something that looks like a pretty good deal if anyone is in the market.

No affiliation with the seller, etc.

https://www.ar15.com/forums/Equipment-Exchange/WTS-Hornady-Primer-Pocket-Swage-Tool-223/114-1782900/

lol, yeah, it’s going to be an extra step no matter what though! lol

Does it radious the primer pocket?   The Dillon does, the Swage-IT does not..

Do you have a pic of a before and after priner pocket?

Thanks!

-Masta

Yes. The Hornady button will radius the outside lip of the pocket. Get yourself one of these and set the swage so it will just allow insertion of the GO stem and you'll be all set.

https://ballistictools.com/store/reloading-products/small-and-large-primer-pocket-gauges

No before. Just after. All the 223 brass I have on hand has already been swaged.

Here's a close up of the radius.