I have 2 Dead AIr suppressors arriving shortly and was considering the Keymo, versus Q plan B, but then Xenonwas announced. Other then the lack of choice in muzzle device it seems to fit my needs of being lighter over having a quick change capability.

It looks like the Xeno is available now on their site, so I picked up a set, they're already out of the 5/8x.

I didnt see any threads cone up in search and thought Id see if anyone else was considering this?

You might consider taking a look in the NFA/Silencer section of ARFcom. I know i've seen them mentioned a couple times.

Thanks for that!

This is the big Dead Air Xeno thread in the Silencer subforum

Yeah, get a cup/glass of your favorite beverage, get comfortable and read through that massive Xenomorph thread.

As far as considering it, yeah, I'm thinking it looks like a really good option. The DA rep here has promised more thread patterns and partnership with other companies to make more muzzle devices.

Also, here are a couple good videos on it:

If I wasn't so heavily invested in Keymo I'd go the Xeno route. Hopefully some dudes start dumping Keymo cheap so I can score a few more brakes! Haha

I  have a 5/8x24 in Keymo id sell, unopened waiting for the can. I have a Xeno brake on the way.

Throw it up on the Equipment Exchange. You'll sell it.

Moved to Xeno on a couple of rifles and pretty happy.  Some have said I can buy the same technology from another vendor.  Genre h maybe?  But I will pay extra for Dave’s design work.  Pretty happy and most suppressor dealers have the 1/2 and the 5/8.  I never buy from manufacturers.  Maybe just me.  If they are doing their job, they should be the seller of last recourse.

Anyone know is a xeno will work on a saker?

No Xeno adapter for the Saker (yet).  But it's in the pipeline.  We're working to get some other muzzle device variants out first.  

Todd Magee
Dead Air Engineering

Like the 13.5 LH key micro?

It looks to be a fair amount longer than plan A if I am looking at the total attachment correctly. I do like the left hand threads though.

Is the Xeno FH or brake predrilled for pinning?

Nope.  We didn't predrill for a reason because we didn't want to facilitate getting people in trouble.  While the devices are over two inches, note that each user needs to do some math.  

You have to subtract the length of the your barrel threads and any shims used from the length of the muzzle device --and then-- add it to the length of the barrel.

It's like this:

OAL pinned & welded length = Actual barrel length + ((muzzle device length - (barrel threads + shims)).  

The length of the Xeno brake sits at 2.10 nominal.  If we solve for exactly 16.00", your barrel threads need to be less than .600" long.  Most are a tiny bit over this so a shim can be used behind the brake to bring it over if needed.    

Todd Magee
Dead Air Engineering

It is and it isn't.  The Plan A sits really far back on the muzzle device, but what that means is that the muzzle device sticks really far into the suppressor.  To the point that they're muzzle devices may hit your blast baffle.  Even if it doesn't, having too much of your blast chamber space taken up by a muzzle device can give you LCS.  Loud Can Syndrome.  

The Xeno adapter sits in a good middle ground but extends back over the muzzle device so not all of that length is added to OAL when mounted.  It also allows for some tool features as well.  Rather than being stuck with hook spanners to tighten it down into the suppressor, you can use a socket and a wrench.  I've never had a Plan A in hand, but I do know that the Xeno adapter is only .28" longer than a Plan B.  By the time it's installed, it can be .4" longer because we add some length for a wrench flat on the muzzle device in case you need to access it if stuck.  That's your true system length.  Both Plan A and Plan B have this design flaw.  In our judgment, an extra .4" was easily worth it.  We do a lot of wrenching and found this to be a no brainer for all of the benefits provided.  

Todd Magee
Dead Air Engineering

I recommend mocking it up.  Take the barrel, put the muzzle device on it, and put the bolt into the barrel extension.  Drop a wooden dowel and mark it off.  Measure to the mark.  Proof in the pudding and all.

This assumes you have all the pieces.  Even if you do the math before you buy, I still recommend my method once you have all the pieces.  I also recommend checking suppressor alignment, even if you bought name brand everything.  Just added safety.

Todd’s way is of course correct, no doubt.  I’m just offering an alternative.

And in the end, super wise and well said.

Thanks for the info fellas!