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[#1]
Quoted: I stumbled on a local surplus seller via Facebook, and decided to pick a a DH-132B CVC helmet for 36 bucks as a sudden Covid project/dip my toes into ballistic helmets. So, here we are now! I have completed the primary assembly of thr helmet and I'm extremely pleased with how it turned out! (Apologies for taking forever to get it done) *UPDATE* Did not expect to get so many people on board! Below I am sharing my plans for the helmet, as it seems I will do progressive updates. No, i did not go the least expensive route possible. This is more for fun, and to make it into something I want (instead of dropping 400+, or some Korean brand). I may add rails in the future, but for now I'm just gonna stick with a basic setup and maybe pickup a Surefire HL-1 clamp on illumination device, slap some velcro on for patches, and call it a day! Thanks! *The Shell I actually received* https://i.imgur.com/6w66rRb.jpg https://i.imgur.com/9GLm2UF.jpg https://i.imgur.com/0WYYOds.jpg ***Retention I've chosen to go with*** https://i.imgur.com/KyIgN8u.jpg **Pad system I've chosen** https://i.imgur.com/l6LaPbo.jpg Overall Cost to me thus far: CVC Shell: $42 shipped TW Epic Air Liner, and velcro discs: $103.64 shipped TW CAM FIT H-Nape Retention System: $68.95 shipped (thanks for the hookup US Elite!) Total: $214.59 (And I'm sure some sweat, time, and heartfelt words of contempt) Additionally, I picked up a Tan Surefire HL1-A to mount on the side for $55 shipped. So technically $269.59 if you wanna get technical for the whole "project" and not just the helmet system itself. Other costs may arise in the future should I elect to get an NVG mount (no need atm), velcro, ARC Rails, or some krylon to repaint. **UPDATE 2/FINAL?** So here we are, with all materials (I did opt to use a titanium Brad-Point drill bit per the suggestion of another builder): https://i.imgur.com/P8MuTkm.jpg Here, we see how the kevlar frays/pulls out of the drilled hole, however you can see directly after that how you can clean that up with a razor blade. I'm sure it can be done much better or more clean but it works for now: https://i.imgur.com/DiIq97E.jpg https://i.imgur.com/mMvGEvH.jpg Here, I have marked the rear of the helmet for drilling. Note, the snap button was not centered and I had to ensure NOT to go off of that. Also - the points measured 2.5" from center and appx 1-3/4" up from the bottom of helmet. https://i.imgur.com/MhST3on.jpg One issue I did run into was paying attention to kevlar build up on my drill bit, as it liked to build up and make the bit useless. This was remedied by cleaning, or eventually like I did by pushing more with the drill: https://i.imgur.com/JJUfkVA.jpg Once drilled, slapped on my velcro tabs in an even placement for padding!: https://i.imgur.com/JmK7Lqn.jpg Here are the pads in place, this picture is pre-drilling but utilizing the same placement regardless: https://i.imgur.com/cq5O03j.jpg Ta-Da! Sorry it took so long haha But it was worth it and a fun project for the afternoon: https://i.imgur.com/jnNH5xG.jpg https://i.imgur.com/6TQGgn8.jpg With the other attachments I've picked up, again pre-drilling but same idea: https://i.imgur.com/4WlFyR3.jpg https://i.imgur.com/1qupk7Z.jpg So overall, yes this is a very cost effective method to get a ballistic helmet and a neat project. Thanks everyone for your experiences! https://i.imgur.com/JktmJqY.jpg https://i.imgur.com/EWPSGNk.jpg https://i.imgur.com/u1Ns5mi.jpg View Quote |
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[#2]
Im in the middle of my cvc build. I think I ordered the wrong rails from gunnook, I didn't know they sold several different ones. They leave about a 1/2" gap on top, they are probably fast rails with the 5 little squares. Which is ok, as long as my ear pro works and I can run a light. The other work I had to do, was cut 1/4” off each bolt for the rails. This isn't a beauty contest, the velcro on top will kind of hide the gap. Paint is drying, Ill finish up tomorrow, although Im waiting on the nvg mount and pads.
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[#3]
Went with a surplus ops core h nape, I shoot left handed, I’m going to have to get used to that buckle being in my way. I wasn’t going to spend the crazy amount with the buckle on the other side. I’ll add the nv mount later, if I ever can afford it lol.
Next on the list is comms. |
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[#4]
You guys got me to do this. Damn you!
I spent $60 on the CVC shipped in February. The pads and harness were paid with a gift card on Amazon. So only $60 out of pocket. Attached File Attached File Attached File |
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[#5]
Riot Ready Homebrew Operator!
Attached File Attached File Attached File First off, props to @NeedsMoreMausers and everyone else who contributed to this thread! It’s one of the best threads on arfcom in years! This was a fun project. I got a level III CVC for $90, Skydex 1” pads and Velcro for $30, and a Brigade QM enhanced sweat pad for $14. Had an Ops Core H Nape and a NODs plate in my Misc Parts Bin. Spent like $15ish on carbide drill bits (NODs plate uses a 3/16” bit and the helmet screws are 1/4”) Total cost for a US made level 3 ballistic helmet that’s perfect for ear pro: $150ish. I am satisfied |
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[#6]
Quoted: Riot Ready Homebrew Operator! https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/427499/E362F6DE-80F4-4FC4-8F5B-E0904CCE154E_jpe-1901154.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/427499/DC002B29-3B77-49E9-AE5F-F3B1C8020EF7_jpe-1901162.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/427499/FA22279C-186E-4276-AEE7-F2310ADDDFFE_jpe-1901174.JPG Was a fun project. I got a level III CVC for $90, Skydex pads and Velcro for $30, and a Brigade QM enhanced sweat pad for $14. Had an Ops Core H Nape and a NODs plate in my Misc Parts Bin. Spent like $15ish on carbide drill bits (NODs plate uses a 3/16” bit and the helmet screws are 1/4”) Total cost for a US made level 3 ballistic helmet that’s perfect for ear pro: $155. I am satisfied View Quote I've contemplated the same kind of pad setup to accommodate hearing protection without using rail mount stuff. |
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[#7]
Quoted: I've contemplated the same kind of pad setup to accommodate hearing protection without using rail mount stuff. View Quote Having tried mounting them to the arc rails for a while, I greatly prefer it this way. It keeps the helmet a bit more streamlined, and most importantly you get to use your muffs without the helmet. Big fan. The OpsCore Headloc also has ear openings that are big enough for larger headsets. With a tac-coms set, you just have to make sure the mic makes it through. |
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[#8]
Cool setup, shows how economical these helmets can be yet still offer solid ballistic protection. As to the non-rail ear pro, only downside is you have to remove the helmet to get the muffs off. With a rail mounted setup you can just pull them out from your head and swing them back onto the rear of the helmet. Kinda nice in hot weather or just need to give yourself a break.
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[#9]
Quoted: Cool setup, shows how economical these helmets can be yet still offer solid ballistic protection. As to the non-rail ear pro, only downside is you have to remove the helmet to get the muffs off. With a rail mounted setup you can just pull them out from your head and swing them back onto the rear of the helmet. Kinda nice in hot weather or just need to give yourself a break. View Quote True facts. It’s a definite nicety I miss having. This is the nature of kit decisions tho. *NOTE!!* for those of you looking on ways to cut cost: if you go cheap on the chinstrap, be sure you get ACTUAL ACH/ECH/MICH/OpsCore bolts!! The ones made on government contract for the military and the ones made by OpsCore have a ballistic specification to the steel. The airsoft ones are made of softer steel. |
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[#11]
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[#12]
Did you get the helmet light to line up properly?
On an OpsCore, the Arc rails aim flashlights slightly inward. I was test fitting one but it kept pointing out on mine |
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[#13]
Quoted: Did you get the helmet light to line up properly? On an OpsCore, the Arc rails aim flashlights slightly inward. I was test fitting one but it kept pointing out on mine View Quote It seems to point/illuminate where I'm naturally looking just fine, which is forward and slightly inboard. |
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[#14]
Dang all yall... I got my large shell coming in today... Already got the parts to finish it out... Now I have a weekend project..
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[#15]
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[#16]
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[#17]
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[#18]
I am selling several for 100 shipped. Shipping is about 15 so not a bad price.
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[#20]
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[#21]
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[#22]
I'm curious about the age of the shells you guys are modifying. Some of them look like they are from a surplus in which case mean they are out of there shelf-life. I see so many of them on ebay. Just curious how the majority of you guys got yours?
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[#23]
Quoted: I'm curious about the age of the shells you guys are modifying. Some of them look like they are from a surplus in which case mean they are out of there shelf-life. I see so many of them on eBay. Just curious how the majority of you guys got yours? View Quote Most of the ones on eBay as surplus are unused/unissued. At least mine was. A Kevlar helmet probably, theoretically, has an expiration date but I seriously doubt that the effectiveness of the helmet will deteriorate unless seriously used and impacted hard or frequently or comes into contact with bad chemicals. Otherwise I see no degradation. A properly painted outer shell will help prolong the life. |
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[#24]
Quoted: I'm curious about the age of the shells you guys are modifying. Some of them look like they are from a surplus in which case mean they are out of there shelf-life. I see so many of them on ebay. Just curious how the majority of you guys got yours? View Quote Got mine through a trusted source. The 3A Kevlar ones have only been made since GWOT. The tricky part is getting the ballistic one and not the fiberglass. It’s really easy to tell the difference though as the fiberglass is like 1/4” thick and the kevlar one is 1/2”. Kevlar helmets don’t have an expiration date |
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[#25]
Quoted: Got mine through a trusted source. The 3A Kevlar ones have only been made since GWOT. The tricky part is getting the ballistic one and not the fiberglass. It’s really easy to tell the difference though as the fiberglass is like 1/4” thick and the kevlar one is 1/2”. Kevlar helmets don’t have an expiration date View Quote Actually they do, after about 5 or so years the fibers start to break down from normal wear and tear. Chemicals, ultra violet light, even water degrades Kevlar performance and accelerate that process. Now if it's not used that much that would pro-long it but if you're getting it from ebay or a guy on facebook eh.. IDK I would trust my life with that. IMO |
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[#26]
Quoted: Actually they do, after about 5 or so years the fibers start to break down from normal wear and tear. Chemicals, ultra violet light, even water degrades Kevlar performance and accelerate that process. Now if it's not used that much that would pro-long it but if you're getting it from ebay or a guy on facebook eh.. IDK I would trust my life with that. IMO View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: Got mine through a trusted source. The 3A Kevlar ones have only been made since GWOT. The tricky part is getting the ballistic one and not the fiberglass. It’s really easy to tell the difference though as the fiberglass is like 1/4” thick and the kevlar one is 1/2”. Kevlar helmets don’t have an expiration date Actually they do, after about 5 or so years the fibers start to break down from normal wear and tear. Chemicals, ultra violet light, even water degrades Kevlar performance and accelerate that process. Now if it's not used that much that would pro-long it but if you're getting it from ebay or a guy on facebook eh.. IDK I would trust my life with that. IMO I'll preface this by saying I don't own one of these helmets, and am not an expert on armor. However, I've seen enough testing (both you tube and real life) done on kevlar expired by DECADES that if I ever come upon one of these helmets for a decent price I plan on buying it, and I won't think twice about wearing it should the need arise. It is my funeral, after all. |
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[#27]
Quoted: Actually they do, after about 5 or so years the fibers start to break down from normal wear and tear. Chemicals, ultra violet light, even water degrades Kevlar performance and accelerate that process. View Quote How is kevlar fiber that's completely encased in resin in a solid composite material exposed to any of those things? There are kevlar composite materials used in aviation parts that are as old or older than these helmets, and are subject to much more extreme conditions. |
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[#28]
Quoted: Actually they do, after about 5 or so years the fibers start to break down from normal wear and tear. Chemicals, ultra violet light, even water degrades Kevlar performance and accelerate that process. Now if it's not used that much that would pro-long it but if you're getting it from ebay or a guy on facebook eh.. IDK I would trust my life with that. IMO View Quote I trust them more than I do the so called American made helmets, that are nothing more than US made materials that are sent to some murky Asian destination to be made into a helmet that is the sold back in the US as American made. |
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[#29]
Quoted: Actually they do, after about 5 or so years the fibers start to break down from normal wear and tear. Chemicals, ultra violet light, even water degrades Kevlar performance and accelerate that process. Now if it's not used that much that would pro-long it but if you're getting it from ebay or a guy on facebook eh.. IDK I would trust my life with that. IMO View Quote Been trusting my life with one that’s been mine for 15 years, and another for 8. They work. |
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[#30]
Quoted: Quoted: Actually they do, after about 5 or so years the fibers start to break down from normal wear and tear. Chemicals, ultra violet light, even water degrades Kevlar performance and accelerate that process. Now if it's not used that much that would pro-long it but if you're getting it from ebay or a guy on facebook eh.. IDK I would trust my life with that. IMO View Quote Been trusting my life with one that’s been mine for 15 years, and another for 8. They work. View Quote But out of that 15 years how many times have you been shot in the head? lol.. I mean, I see where you guys are coming from but you can pick up a brand new (made in America) shell for around $350 to $390 for just the shell. I was looking around on GunNook. They have some all the way to rifle rated but it was not $300. IDK That's just a big risk to me. But to each is own |
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[#31]
Quoted: But out of that 15 years how many times have you been shot in the head? lol.. I mean, I see where you guys are coming from but you can pick up a brand new (made in America) shell for around $350 to $390 for just the shell. I was looking around on GunNook. They have some all the way to rifle rated but it was not $300. IDK That's just a big risk to me. But to each is own View Quote What are you in the home-brew helmet thread for anyway? There are dozens of threads dedicated to opscore and TW bukkake. |
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[#32]
Quoted: so I’m gonna go out on a limb and put a paycheck on you never even having been shot at. even the sexiest Hillary Special Team Wendy helmets won’t stop rifle bullets. What are you in the home-brew helmet thread for anyway? There are dozens of threads dedicated to opscore and TW bukkake. View Quote Well your wrong about no helmet stopping rifle rounds. I would do some research on that before you make that type of a statement. As for why I'm here, I was looking for some side rails and this thread was in google. I then noticed all the suspect shells being used and it caught my interest. As for the other dozens of threads.. I for one would never own anything TW due to the type of people they back. And Opscore are just over priced helmets IMO.. Also I should point out I'm not trying to ruffle any feathers or piss anyone off. I'm just asking questions |
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[#33]
Quoted: Well your wrong about no helmet stopping rifle rounds. I would do some research on that before you make that type of a statement. As for why I'm here, I was looking for some side rails and this thread was in google. I then noticed all the suspect shells being used and it caught my interest. As for the other dozens of threads.. I for one would never own anything TW due to the type of people they back. And Opscore are just over priced helmets IMO.. Also I should point out I'm not trying to ruffle any feathers or piss anyone off. I'm just asking questions View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: so I’m gonna go out on a limb and put a paycheck on you never even having been shot at. even the sexiest Hillary Special Team Wendy helmets won’t stop rifle bullets. What are you in the home-brew helmet thread for anyway? There are dozens of threads dedicated to opscore and TW bukkake. Well your wrong about no helmet stopping rifle rounds. I would do some research on that before you make that type of a statement. As for why I'm here, I was looking for some side rails and this thread was in google. I then noticed all the suspect shells being used and it caught my interest. As for the other dozens of threads.. I for one would never own anything TW due to the type of people they back. And Opscore are just over priced helmets IMO.. Also I should point out I'm not trying to ruffle any feathers or piss anyone off. I'm just asking questions You were looking for rails huh? Curious why you just don't pick some up off the shelf at gunnook since you are apparently the founder. |
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[#35]
Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: so I’m gonna go out on a limb and put a paycheck on you never even having been shot at. even the sexiest Hillary Special Team Wendy helmets won’t stop rifle bullets. What are you in the home-brew helmet thread for anyway? There are dozens of threads dedicated to opscore and TW bukkake. View Quote Well your wrong about no helmet stopping rifle rounds. I would do some research on that before you make that type of a statement. As for why I'm here, I was looking for some side rails and this thread was in google. I then noticed all the suspect shells being used and it caught my interest. As for the other dozens of threads.. I for one would never own anything TW due to the type of people they back. And Opscore are just over priced helmets IMO.. Also I should point out I'm not trying to ruffle any feathers or piss anyone off. I'm just asking questions View Quote You were looking for rails huh? Curious why you just don't pick some up off the shelf at gunnook since you are apparently the founder. View Quote Oh cool, I see what your trying to imply, but unfortunately it just happens to be a coincidence. Souldat is form a very popular old war game. https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1-d&q=souldat+game |
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[#36]
Oh lord,
Whelp here goes another great tech thread derailed by a troglodyte from GD |
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[#37]
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[#38]
Quoted: *NOTE!!* for those of you looking on ways to cut cost: if you go cheap on the chinstrap, be sure you get ACTUAL ACH/ECH/MICH/OpsCore bolts!! The ones made on government contract for the military and the ones made by OpsCore have a ballistic specification to the steel. The airsoft ones are made of softer steel. View Quote Now if you are using the original fiberglass DH-132 shell, you can go a little cheaper and not worry about the bolts being ballistic rated. I would still go with a good chin strap though. I used the original DH-132 shell for mine since I had several shells sitting around from when I was in the Army. So my only cost was for the pads, chin strap and rails. |
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[#39]
Quoted: Oh lord, Whelp here goes another great tech thread derailed by a troglodyte from GD https://i.imgur.com/KtqLPIk.jpg View Quote He wont be back in this thread |
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[#40]
Quoted: Now if you are using the original fiberglass DH-132 shell, you can go a little cheaper and not worry about the bolts being ballistic rated. I would still go with a good chin strap though. I used the original DH-132 shell for mine since I had several shells sitting around from when I was in the Army. So my only cost was for the pads, chin strap and rails. View Quote I like that idea as an inexpensive bump helmet sort of concept. Do the fiberglass ones have the same outward flare as the ballistic? |
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[#41]
I have 10 cvc kevlar helmets right now from different manufacturers. I also have 4 lightweight non kevlar helmets. The external shape is the same on all of them. There is a difference is sizes though from medium to large. I have never ordered the rails or installed rails because I prefer the more minimalist approach to the setup. One thing I have noticed with the non kevlar bump helmet shell is that some of them are really thin almost too thin. They are not all made the same so if you go the bump route I would make sure it's not a thin one. My too thin one is probably 2mm thick where as the other two are probably 4 mm thick. It is a very noticeable difference.
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[#42]
My original DH-132 is fairly thick. Yes they will size different than the newer kevlar versions. My shell is a medium and I had to go with 1" pads to get the correct fit. I know I have bounced my head around inside of tracked vehicles with the old DH-132 fiberglass shells and they always held up fine. When I was in all we had were the fiberglass shells.
Attached File Attached File Attached File Attached File |
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[#43]
Wow, been insanely busy with life/work and havnt been on arfcom in a minute. Love seeing all these builds guys, definitely a few (if not most) that are obviously nicer than mine!
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[#44]
Quoted: My original DH-132 is fairly thick. Yes they will size different than the newer kevlar versions. My shell is a medium and I had to go with 1" pads to get the correct fit. I know I have bounced my head around inside of tracked vehicles with the old DH-132 fiberglass shells and they always held up fine. When I was in all we had were the fiberglass shells. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/101824/IMG_2707_jpeg-1990355.JPGhttps://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/101824/IMG_2705_jpeg-1990356.JPGhttps://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/101824/IMG_2709_jpeg-1990357.JPGhttps://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/101824/IMG_2708_jpeg-1990358.JPG View Quote @chumpmiester Did you drill holes for those rails or is that how the factory holes lined up? |
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[#45]
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[#46]
Quoted: I had to drill holes for the rails. The older fiberglass shells are definitely easier to drill but you still have to use a good sharp drill bit to prevent blowouts. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: @chumpmiester Did you drill holes for those rails or is that how the factory holes lined up? I had to drill holes for the rails. The older fiberglass shells are definitely easier to drill but you still have to use a good sharp drill bit to prevent blowouts. Got it, thanks. It lines up great and looks good. |
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[#49]
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