I use a .38 Special case with the casehead down to stop the casefeeder.

I'm interested in what he uses to stop the primer feed.  It looks like I would just need to raise and block the little feeder pawl.

Yeah, that will work.

I recently had some mashed up primer fall into one of the primer “carousel” holes.  That kept that pawl from dropping into one of those holes and advancing the carousel.

So along those lines you could probably cut a semi-circular shaped piece  out of a playing card or index card or milk jug plastic and slip It between the pawl and the top of the carousel.

If that doesn’t work various outfits now make a “primer switch”.

Dillon now has steel lock rings (for dies). Would this be preferable to the zinc alloy?

Done

(for the 650)
I made a tiny metal tab, probably saw it on a youtube video.  It is about 1/4" wide by 1" long with a slight bent to make it easier to get into place.  A small hole is either drilled or punched in the tip of the tab, just large enough for it to go under the pawl and hold it above the primer index wheel. The pawl simply slides over the wheel when it is inserted without feeding a primer.

You may think this would cause wear, but I have had it in place for thousands of rounds of brass processing, both depriming and sizing, and it has no signs of wear.

I will try to remember to snap a photo of it.

I really wish some of these 3D printer gurus would make a cheap primer switch.  The ones currently on the market are more than I want to spend.

Primer stop tab under the pawl:

Anyone have a trick to keep the white roller wheel on the primer slide kicked out on a 750.  Keep having it get hung up and apparently the rubber band trick in the first post isn't working for me.  Trying to figure what I did with my bad of heat shrink.  Thinking about removing the wheel and putting a piece on there to keep it from moving out of place.

I want to say loosen the block at the primer tower tube and rotate to change align on the wire to roller..  

Thanks ill give it a try and see what happens

ETA:turning the mount holding the guide rod just a hair seems to have done the trick.

Done

I was cleaning my powder measure after polishing the inside hopper funnel and notice the collar thing wasn't moving freely, it'd move but took some effort.  Everything was degreased with rubbing alcohol

Attached File


Just take some 400 then 1000 grit sandpaper and polish these to flats, this is one of them, the other is 180 degree opposite


Attached File


Now this collar moves up and down freely with no binding

Whoa, what happened to the OP and his content? I came back to reference something in this thread and it is all gone. All of his posts across various forums have been changed to DONE. There was some great info here from him

Steve is Done I guess.  Hope all is well, he has a wealth of info.

This year has been rough on folks.

Wishing him the best.  Sucks that he decided to bail, I used many of his mod suggestions on my 650....

Not sure what was originally posted but I had this saved for some reason.
Any way of restoring the information in his posts?

He had posted a lot of info on the Dillon 650.  Sorry to se him gone....

If I need to delete, Let me know....

My first progressive was a Dillon 550B and it served me well for over 4 years before I decided to sell it and step up to a Dillon 650 w/casefeeder. I've come up with a number of ideas over the last 15+ years to make my both Dillon presses and accessories to my bench work better for me. I have compiled them and a few ideas I used from others into a tacked thread that has been up for a few years on AR15.com. Feel free to use any of them as I've found them to be helpful and inexpensive.

These are by no means all the mods various people have come up with, just the one's I've done on my presses. If you have any ideas you've come up with, maybe you could add a few pictures and a description in a reply here explaining how to add them to your press so we have a 'collected wisdom' sort of thread. Nothing like sharing ideas.


My first, Cheap Tips and Tricks For Dillon 550B and XL650s - Updated 4/14/2015 I've kept this thread updated as I come up with added items or suggestions to clarify my post. I started with some of these cheap 'fixes' as soon as I got my first 550B some 15+ years ago and started to use it. Some of my ideas (e.g. 550B case bin & bracket and both 550 & 650 tool holders) predate Dillon's release of similar items.


The second, CURE the Indexing Jump and Resulting Powder Spills in Your 650! is a result of many of us having issues spilling powder as our 650 index because of 'jumping' into the next position. I found it was the result of a simple miss-adjustment that's easily rectified.


I'm not saying these are what anyone should do or that you're missing the boat if you don't consider them. I simply am providing them as a resource that handloaders with these presses can consider as possible enhancements to their own presses. Feel free to consider them or not, whichever is your pleasure.
Steve

Still that He bailed.  Sucks.  

FYI, original posted info for this thread is still available if you do an internet search for the thread address then view the archived data.

Link?

Copy and paste the following in an internet search(I used Bing):

One Man's Reloading Steps for Dillon's RL 550B and Both XL 650 and New XL 750 with Casefeeders - Page 1 - AR15.COM

Then view the cached data

Bing and Google caches have already updated. Use the following link to view the original post:

https://web.archive.org/web/20160408112336/https://www.ar15.com/forums/t_6_42/365425_One_Man_s_Reloading_Steps_for_Both_Dillon_550B_and_XL650_with_Casefeeder.html&page=1

What's up with the "Done"s?

Guess he's done then.

Not sure what was in your pictures as they don't show for me but I've been doing this for years to stop the Primer feed.

Oh crap!   That is so simple and elegant!

I have my moments... lol

That is slick. I remove the screw from the primer cam.