I've done a lot of research looking for a 7.62x39 bolt gun looking at Howa, Ruger, and CZ.  I decided on the CZ 527 suppressor ready.  I was well aware of the issue of the barrels not being straight in the synthetic barrel channel with many touching or almost touching the right side of the stock.  As these complaints are all over the internet since 2017 you would figure CZ would have this corrected by now, right?

Well with no one having this gun on the shelf, I had to order it and sure enough, the barrel is almost touching the R side of the stock.  You can put 3 dimes in the space on the left near the fore end, and barely slip a dollar through on the right.  It is so obviously off it makes you wonder how it got out the door at CZ.  Total bullshit on a 600.00 rifle.  I've read that CZ is happy to fix this, but you have to ship the rifle and it can take 6 weeks.  Also bullshit.

So, it appears the stock is warped near the fore end.  I put the barrel in a vice and pushed the fore end to the right, shimming the right side of the barrel channel with a stack of business cards.  I heated the last 4 in. of the stock with a hair dryer while gently prying the R side open with a popsicle stick.  I let it cool with the shims in place and viola, the channel is now near centered, at least acceptable.

With the warped stock, sticking bolt that needed worked several times to function consistently, and decently light trigger with some creep and tons of over travel, my first impression of this gun is not good.  They gave me a computer generated test target that shows 3 shots in the same hole at 50 yd with S&B ammo, so I'll hold off on my opinion of this gun until I see if it shoots up to the hype.  

They sell the wood stocks fairly inexpensively if you're interested in that.

I agree with you and I wanted the 300 blackout, but the price was crazy and gets worse when you pay $100 for a wood stock to get rid of the gimp plastic.

I got the ruger American instead and it had light primer strikes, so joke was on me!

Just an FYI, I spoke to one of the smiths at CZ USA and they fix the stock almost exactly like I did above except they use a heat gun instead of a hair dryer.

My 300 BLK has the same stock bend. I've been leaving the right side shimmed with folded paper, removing it to shoot. It takes about two days now for the stock to bend back to barely touch the barrel. I may try a heat gun on low.

In for the range report!

BTW, Not long ago my buddies convinced me I needed to jump on a CZ452 American. This was after they stopped production for a while and changed to the current model.

A batch of them were discovered stagnating in a warehouse and Classic Firearms got them. When I buckled and got one, I was disappointed to see the test target at 50m was a horizontal waterline.

The stock is nice wood for an inexpensive rig, but it was touching on the right side of the bbl and the gap on the left was huge.

When I recently got sucked into shooting in Phoenix, I pulled it out of the safe and risked removing the material to balance the clearance along the whole length of the bbl. It was a risk because I had not even shot it.

So, the good news is that I threw a scope on it and took it out last week. The rifle shoots very well. Like 3/8" 5 shot groups at 50 yards using CCI Standard Vel.

So, keep the faith and good luck with the range test, can't wait to hear how it goes.

So after much work I came up with a decent hand load with a .311 125 gr Sierra Pro Hunter that is printing 1.10 MOA at a smoking 2600 FPS.  At 30.0 gr. CFE BLK I am 0.3 over Hogdons listed max but showing no signs of pressure.  If you load for this gun do yourself a favor and buy the Lapua brass.  I tried to  reload some Federal AE OFB and had terrible accuracy and misfires due to cases with short head space not related to my die.  Otherwise, it is printing Wolfe Military Classic at 1.5 in at 100 yd, Wolf copper HP at 2.5 in. and Federal AE 124 gr. at 3 in.  

So with the Sierra Pro Hunters for hunting and the Wolf Military Classic for plinking, this gun should be good to go.

I’ve always heard those rifles made the best of even cruddy ammo.

Were you going for speed with that CFE, or was it your most accurate load? I only ask because my experience with CFE was high velocity, low accuracy and inconsistent shot to shot velocities.

I used the CFL BLK because I had it on hand for 300 BO.  It seemed that it liked the hotter loads.  I only chronyed 3 rds of the 30.0 but the SD was 2.  The other load that showed promise was 29.4, 5 shots SD of 9 so it seemed consistent but today, that group really  opened up.  Across the board though both with 300 BO and 7.62x39 I seem to deal with a lot of fliers which has been frustrating to determine the cause.

My experience was similar, where I would get 4 shots at/under MOA and the 5th would ruin the group. Admittedly, I was shooting CFE 223, so not the same powder. I personally had bought it to get good velocity but things were inconsistent. I had one group of .223 with an ES of 159, and it was a mild load.

I was so frustrated I set it aside but may try again some time.

Have you played with seating depth or primers at all?

I'm using Federal match primers (? 210M) as that is what I have on hand.  I started with OAL 2.150 and ended up a 2.190 without any significant improvement with regards to that change.   I think with the magazine limitation, getting near the lands in that chamber is not possible.  Also, with the Sierra 125 Pro Hunter, seating any longer and I don't think you could retain the bullet in the case.

That is par for the course with them.  I've had four different 527 rifles and each one had the barrel favoring the right side of the stock.  That said, it doesn't really mean anything when you start shooting unless you're OCD about the barrel being perfectly aligned in the stock.  Every one I have had shot sub-MOA with ease.  My 527 in .223 was printing 5/8" groups with Hornady steel match.  My 204 Ruger shot like a damn laser beam.  The only rifles I have shot that shot better than the various 527s I've owned is my Savage 12 LRP in 6.5 Creedmoor, but that is straight up match/precision rifle and not a hunting rifle.

I hogged out the recoil lug area of the stock and bedded it with the barrel centered before even firing a shot. Don't know how it did from the factory but it shoots great now. 527 SR 6.5 Grendel.

Did you do anything with the rear tang?  There is already a pillar there I believe.  I was thinking about putting a pillar in the front and bedding the front and rear because my rear action screw keeps loosening making me think there is a bedding issue.

Great info.  I bought the same rifle for the same reasons aware of the same issue and opened the box to find that my stock was badly warped too.  I guess I shouldn’t have been surprised but somehow I thought I would luck out.  

I am going to try the fix you suggest.  On the plus side, I took it out to the range for the first time a couple weeks ago and it was easily shooting MOA with steel cased ammo.  

I put some subs through it as well.  Very quiet.  If I can get the stock fixed and smooth the bolt out, I think it will prove to be the 300 Blackout alternative I was hoping for.  That, or I may just suck it up and buy the wood stock which will look better anyway.

Edited to add:

Any advice on smoothing out the sticky bolt?

You might consider trying the 123 gr .310 Gold Dot.  My 7.62x39 AR really likes the 123 GD over a stout charge of CFE BLK.

I’ve also experienced that CFE BLK does best at max charges.

I'm having bolt /feed problems on a .223.  It's quite smooth unloaded but really feeds badly.  I've read potentially mag lips are too tight/need smoothing, also some potential that  mag doesn't seat at right height sometimes, perhaps an action screw (bolt) height being off?   If too long the mag isn't high enough and the round feeds low?  Haven't done much with it recently with weather pretty hot for outdoor shooting.

@Featureless - As a new 527 Lux owner, I ran into this same issue and was about to give up.  With a fully loaded 5 rd mag, I couldn't get the bolt to close.  Oh great, did I get a lemon? Then my son discovered that if you simply start pushing the back of the bolt forward with your thumb, the bolt will go forward and start to strip a round from the mag. It comes down to how you cycle the bolt and the alignment of the bolt relative to the top of the mag.  It is what it is.  Typically most people, including myself will tend to start the bolt forward putting upward pressure on the bolt handle.  This push the front of the bolt down somewhat.
I found out just by dumb experiment that if you put more of a downward pressure on your CZ bolt handle as you push the bolt forward, rounds will feed just fine and the bolt will seem smoother as well.  Probably wouldn't hurt to take some very fine sand paper or emry cloth to the top of your mags.

Works well with the thumb (found that from reading up on it, too) but that's not the way it's supposed to have to work and plenty of reviews and videos, etc., show people doing just fine without resorting to the thumb push.  I really like the way it feels and shoots, on a limited number of outings, except for the feeding.  It may be I need to just find a sweet spot in positioning/holding the bolt.  Fortunately I not depending on the controlled round feed to deal with Cape Buffalo.