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Posted: 12/19/2018 5:52:58 PM EDT
Anybody revived one of these?
For $100, I ordered two to try to cobble together a working unit. Anybody else done something like this? |
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Anybody revived one of these? For $100, I ordered two to try to cobble together a working unit. Anybody else done something like this? View Quote I ordered 2 of the ones you mentioned. |
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They show sold out now, but my order for 2 went through prior to that.
They have 2 listings for them at different prices in their surplus section. |
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They show sold out now, but my order for 2 went through prior to that. They have 2 listings for them at different prices in their surplus section. View Quote Did you get the 7’s or the Spirit 3x things again? Out of my two, it would be cool to get at least one running. I’d be a lot happier handing that to my 7-yr-old for our night scouts or nerf battles than one of my PVS-14s. |
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Quoted: My order went through also. Did you get the 7’s or the Spirit 3x things again? Out of my two, it would be cool to get at least one running. I’d be a lot happier handing that to my 7-yr-old for our night scouts or nerf battles than one of my PVS-14s. View Quote If I can't get either of the 7s to work, then I at least have 2 bodies I can play with if I want to switch the tube around. |
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Quoted: The 7s. I am sure that it uses the same tube as the Night Spirit. If I can't get either of the 7s to work, then I at least have 2 bodies I can play with if I want to switch the tube around. View Quote I work with some electronics nerds I can have look at them if it’s a problem on the PS boards or something |
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Quoted: Cool. I’m hoping they will show up next week when work is slow and I can play around with them some. I work with some electronics nerds I can have look at them if it’s a problem on the PS boards or something View Quote It’s a crapshoot, but with the nights spirits a few of us lucked out. Testing the tube itself is easy, and all you have to do is hook the leads up to a battery. If it lights up the tube is good. I had one or the tube barely lit up and was at the end of service life Or somebody burnt it out in the daylight |
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I got a shipping notice today. Hoping they come before Christmas.
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I got a shipping notice too. You guys are horrible for my wallet.
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Not arguing, i was looking for a cheap pvs7 housings for some tubes i have. Those wont work. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Quoted: For 100 bucks, nothing is shitty. If the gen 2 tube works, awesome. If not, 100 buck body, and still awesome. Go be rich somewhere else. |
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Got mine in.
One fired right up but looks pretty dirty. The other won’t turn on. I’m looking forward to playing with these. |
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Got my 2 units. Both have dead tubes that won't power up. Bodies and optics are in good shape, just need a cleaning. If anyone is in the inverse situation I would trade a body for a tube, IM me.
Any advice on buying a tube for these? Attached File Attached File |
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China sells new tubes, but you'd pay more for the tube than it's worth as far as performance goes. Check the ATN Night Spirit thread, someone is attempting a 10130 mod on them that would work the same for these since neither are inverted.
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My 2 cam in today.
Both are 100% functional, so I lucked out big time. The only thing is that one of them has no lens cap or eyecups. Anyone know where to get them? |
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Well shit. I see all the tranny and civil war bumpstock threads but missed that one. And now I'm assed out.
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Found these eyecups on ebay:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-2-pcs-Microscope-Telescope-Eyepiece-Eye-Shield-Rubber-Eye-Guards-Eye-Cups/182371377822?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=484932203532&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 Measurements look like they will work. Eta: they do not! They are too huge. |
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Thanks for the link to the eye cups. I just ordered a set. I am new hear and new at playing with Night Vision, and these seemed like a great project. And way to get a loaner set to take someone with me.
I bought 3 of them. After I was done with a day of playing with them and moving parts around. I have one complete, that works awesome. One that's now working but missing eye cups, it works, but it has a bright white spot in the field of view. What does a bright white spot mean? It's not to bad, its not right in the middle and its only maybe a 1/8", hope it does't grow. And I have one housing, dead tube, no bat cover, no eye cups, no daylight cover, but it works if I swap a tube into it and a bat cover. I can make a bat cover, I think... so now on the hunt for another tube that will fit it. I saw the talk about maybe a 10130 might fit. hmmm Now the question I have is.... how do I attach these to a mount? This ATN dove tail looks different than the photos of other adapters I have seen. I have a Rhino 2 coming and would like to find a way to attach it to that, or a old Rhino. Thanks for any help and advice. lol I have lurked hear for years... So thanks for all the advice and laughs I have gotten in that time. |
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I was wrong, after paying with the unit with the bright white spot, it's a bright pin point, and looking on TNVC web site at there FAQ and a few other places on the web. It sounds like a "emission point" it doesn't go away when I block off all light to the unit. And sadly.... it was really dark hear tonight so got to try the two working ones out next the each other.... and the one with the emission point is a much better tube, sees a lot better in really dark areas. So for some reason (thinking of you ATN.... and use) there seems to be a lot of difference in the quality of the tubes in these. But lol I am supper happy..... I am hooked these things are cool. So much better than I expected... I was thinking toy, but tonight I was comparing it to a PVS14 and I was impressed, these did a lot better than I expected.
So a question, I don't want to derail, just learning and wondering if there's something I should do. Everything I have read so far says if there's a "emission point" and how to test for it. To send the unit in for repairs, or that it needs to be serviced. lol fat chance with these... is there any cause or fix for it that doesn't involve a new tube? Should I just use it till it croaks or is there something I should do or fix? Shame because like I said.... it's a much better tube.... That unit was almost as clear as the gen 3 PVS14 in a really dark area. Thanks for any ideas, education or help... and recommendations still looking for how to attach these to a Rhino mount. I found a Kit that ATN sells for them, that includes there Rhino.... but all I want is the adapter, and I didn't see them selling just that anyplace, plus I wonder if there would be some funky fit issues with there knockoff Rhino... Ok starting to ramble. |
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I've heard that you can get EPs lasered to try to stabilize them. This will leave a regular black blem in place of it.
For a $100 mystery tube ATN unit, I don't think anyone would advise going down that path. |
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Thanks for the education and thanks for starting this thread. I will just run the one with the EP till it croaks and have fun with it. I would much rather learn with and watch a $100 tube die than a expensive one. Like I said, I am new at this. I am learning a bunch. Your thread just brought someone new into the community, and I am going to introduce my friends to it.... :) I am totally hooked now....
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Thanks for the education and thanks for starting this thread. I will just run the one with the EP till it croaks and have fun with it. I would much rather learn with and watch a $100 tube die than a expensive one. Like I said, I am new at this. I am learning a bunch. Your thread just brought someone new into the community, and I am going to introduce my friends to it.... :) I am totally hooked now.... View Quote It’ll end up costing you thousands and thousands of dollars, but you will gain a superpower. |
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Really wish I'd have been able to get in on this deal. Haven't yet dipped my toes into the night vision world and this seems like it would have been a really good way without spending thousands right off the bat.
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Me too. I'm always just missing these damn things. View Quote |
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Damn, wish I would have seen these sooner.
Quoted:
I was wrong, after paying with the unit with the bright white spot, it's a bright pin point, and looking on TNVC web site at there FAQ and a few other places on the web. It sounds like a "emission point" it doesn't go away when I block off all light to the unit. And sadly.... it was really dark hear tonight so got to try the two working ones out next the each other.... and the one with the emission point is a much better tube, sees a lot better in really dark areas. So for some reason (thinking of you ATN.... and use) there seems to be a lot of difference in the quality of the tubes in these. But lol I am supper happy..... I am hooked these things are cool. So much better than I expected... I was thinking toy, but tonight I was comparing it to a PVS14 and I was impressed, these did a lot better than I expected. So a question, I don't want to derail, just learning and wondering if there's something I should do. Everything I have read so far says if there's a "emission point" and how to test for it. To send the unit in for repairs, or that it needs to be serviced. lol fat chance with these... is there any cause or fix for it that doesn't involve a new tube? Should I just use it till it croaks or is there something I should do or fix? Shame because like I said.... it's a much better tube.... That unit was almost as clear as the gen 3 PVS14 in a really dark area. Thanks for any ideas, education or help... and recommendations still looking for how to attach these to a Rhino mount. I found a Kit that ATN sells for them, that includes there Rhino.... but all I want is the adapter, and I didn't see them selling just that anyplace, plus I wonder if there would be some funky fit issues with there knockoff Rhino... Ok starting to ramble. View Quote |
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Damn, wish I would have seen these sooner. Sure sounds like an emission point. I'm always on the lookout for tubes with EPs to practice on. Had success zapping a few with a laser so far. If you want to be a guinea pig, I'll do it if you cover shipping both ways. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Damn, wish I would have seen these sooner. Quoted:
I was wrong, after paying with the unit with the bright white spot, it's a bright pin point, and looking on TNVC web site at there FAQ and a few other places on the web. It sounds like a "emission point" it doesn't go away when I block off all light to the unit. And sadly.... it was really dark hear tonight so got to try the two working ones out next the each other.... and the one with the emission point is a much better tube, sees a lot better in really dark areas. So for some reason (thinking of you ATN.... and use) there seems to be a lot of difference in the quality of the tubes in these. But lol I am supper happy..... I am hooked these things are cool. So much better than I expected... I was thinking toy, but tonight I was comparing it to a PVS14 and I was impressed, these did a lot better than I expected. So a question, I don't want to derail, just learning and wondering if there's something I should do. Everything I have read so far says if there's a "emission point" and how to test for it. To send the unit in for repairs, or that it needs to be serviced. lol fat chance with these... is there any cause or fix for it that doesn't involve a new tube? Should I just use it till it croaks or is there something I should do or fix? Shame because like I said.... it's a much better tube.... That unit was almost as clear as the gen 3 PVS14 in a really dark area. Thanks for any ideas, education or help... and recommendations still looking for how to attach these to a Rhino mount. I found a Kit that ATN sells for them, that includes there Rhino.... but all I want is the adapter, and I didn't see them selling just that anyplace, plus I wonder if there would be some funky fit issues with there knockoff Rhino... Ok starting to ramble. I have a 14 with a small EP I’ve thought about getting lasered. |
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Quoted: How good are you? I have a 14 with a small EP I’ve thought about getting lasered. View Quote It's a work in progress. The science is getting the EP zapped. The art is getting consistent results. My limited sample size hints at the method being improved with the last tube being left with a black spot slightly larger than the EP. |
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You aren't missing much here. As much as you want to get in on the cheaper surplus NODS the fact is most of the units are either broken or under performing when compared to anything more recent. The Russian FeP Ekran tubes provided in these units are barely Gen 2 and digital outperforms in every way. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Me too. I'm always just missing these damn things. There is no loss here. I think one unit was scrapped because of eye cups and dirty battery cap contacts, and the other had the front housing unscrewed enough to where the tube wasn't hitting the contacts. It is a crapshoot, but a good gamble. You wouldn't be in the thread if that weren't a fact. These are at least a solid gen 2. The tubes have noise, but I have 2 NVG-7s and a night spirit 2 for less than $300 through Apex. The Sionyx cameras look awesome, but I am not going to buy one until they come out with their next product. Why rig everything to work how I need it to when they have been watching the thread here and other places? Their next model will be more adaptable, given that they have been posting in the thread here. These ATN surplus models are beyond decent entry-level shit that have convinced me to spend more money on better NV stuff. |
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If we wanted to get new tubes for these, what would we be looking for?
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Quoted: If we wanted to get new tubes for these, what would we be looking for? View Quote If they didn't work, then you lost a little on the gamble. Don't dump money into these to fix them, dedicate things to something better while cruising for CHEAP tubes if you can find them. I lucked out on mine, but if they didn't work I would have just let it go. |
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I am in the same boat as Zedsdeadbaby. In that, these units have gotten me hooked and convinced me to invest more in night vision. I need to start another thread to ask some questions about that.... I am learning a lot, and having a blast, for a low investment so far. Great way to get started. But I am going to keep sniffing for a reasonable tube to toss into one, because doing a tube change and upgrading one would continue the learning process. But maybe I am being goofy... But I also want to be able to take some of my shooting buddies out at night, and none of them have night vision. So was wanting some loaners I wouldn't worry about, or feel to hurt if they get broken.
TXDX Thanks for that super cool offer to try and fix that EP. That's really cool and awesome of you. Thanks. Where I am at, is it doesn't bug me. It's just a speck over near the edge. But I know nothing about EP's... does a tube with one die slow or quick? Will the EP slowly grow or just blink tube gone? I don't know.... Is it worth the trouble? I can totally live with it, if it is what it is and wont change or spread. This EP, is almost always in the image, only time it goes away is if I look at a white wall and turn the ir on then it gets bright enough to make it go away. But walking around the neighbor hood with porch lights and light spilling out everywhere from the houses... the EP is always there.... It goes away the instant the power is turned off. I am wonder if it's to small to bother zapping. But I know nothing about these things. Like I said... lol great for learning. |
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As for these tubes. The two I have, have a big difference between them. I am new and green.... but I can really tell. The one with the EP is much crisper and brighter, when I get someplace really dark. I wonder if that could have something to do with the EP?? and something going on in that tube. Or just more use on the other one.... or a broad range of quality between the tubes. The one with the EP is almost as good as my PVS14, the other one is more like I would expect from a gen 2, but then again. I am new so what do I know. What's funny is. The unit with the EP looked like it was brand new, but had been stripped for parts, I wonder if they swapped the tube out of it and it's a higher grade tube out of something else... but it had a EP so they changed it. Or.... it got stripped for parts and never got used because of the EP and that lack of use is why it's so much better. I don't know...
You know.... I think everyone so far has been right... lol don't look at better, it will cost you thousands... lol it already has. Plus, the these aren't that great... because they are good enough to get you hooked... and then it will cost you thousands... I know I was kicking my self on the thread about the spotters that I missed that Apex had right before these.... so I was sorta waiting for them to drop these (they had working 7 and spotters listed... then those were out of stock... then they dropped the deal on the broken spotters... I was hmmmm where's the deal on the broken 7s..... hmmmm).... and wile I was waiting, I pounced on one of the PVS14 deals I saw on hear, then a couple days after that got hear. These came up and I jumped on them. And I am using them to learn with.... that way if I break or damage something... it's one of these, and not my PVS14. I am still a little nervous to take the PVS14 out and haven't played with it much. These made me really notice how much nicer it is to have both eyes for walking around then just one.... |
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TXDX Thanks for that super cool offer to try and fix that EP. That's really cool and awesome of you. Thanks. Where I am at, is it doesn't bug me. It's just a speck over near the edge. But I know nothing about EP's... does a tube with one die slow or quick? Will the EP slowly grow or just blink tube gone? I don't know.... Is it worth the trouble? I can totally live with it, if it is what it is and wont change or spread. This EP, is almost always in the image, only time it goes away is if I look at a white wall and turn the ir on then it gets bright enough to make it go away. But walking around the neighbor hood with porch lights and light spilling out everywhere from the houses... the EP is always there.... It goes away the instant the power is turned off. I am wonder if it's to small to bother zapping. But I know nothing about these things. Like I said... lol great for learning. View Quote |
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Thanks for the education. I am learning new things on hear every day. Thank you and everyone else. This place is great.
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Quoted: My thought on that is "Why bother". If they didn't work, then you lost a little on the gamble. Don't dump money into these to fix them, dedicate things to something better while cruising for CHEAP tubes if you can find them. I lucked out on mine, but if they didn't work I would have just let it go. View Quote |
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Quoted: Got a pic of the EP? Does it persist for a few seconds after the -14 is turned off? If it's not bothering you too much, I would leave it as is, especially if the EP is noticeable only when the scene is very dark. It's a work in progress. The science is getting the EP zapped. The art is getting consistent results. My limited sample size hints at the method being improved with the last tube being left with a black spot slightly larger than the EP. View Quote |
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Quoted: One of the more successful results. EP replaced with a black spot. Not visible with the tube input completely blocked off. https://i.imgur.com/j30atjz.jpg https://imgur.com/j30atjz View Quote |
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In theory, wouldn't this be pretty straightforward? We know that shining a laser directly into the tube (even a 0.7mW IR laser) will eventually cause a burn in the screen. Couldn't you just set up a PVS-14 on a tripod, set the laser on another tripod, aim the laser at the EP, turn it on and wait until it burns in?
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In theory, wouldn't this be pretty straightforward? We know that shining a laser directly into the tube (even a 0.7mW IR laser) will eventually cause a burn in the screen. Couldn't you just set up a PVS-14 on a tripod, set the laser on another tripod, aim the laser at the EP, turn it on and wait until it burns in? View Quote Most EPs that I've seen on Gen 3 tubes are on the screen side. Don't know if it's because of my limited sample size, that they are far more obvious and annoying than input side EPs, that tubes are more predisposed to screen side EPs, or what. Screen side EPs can also grow and destroy a sizable fraction of the screen area while continuing to glow in the process. Input side EPs are zapped by going thru the photocathode with a laser. The GaAs photocathode is transparent above a certain wavelength in the near IR region (~890nm for pure GaAs, dopants might change it, tube PCs are transparent by 950nm). Screen side EPs are zapped by going through the screen. A laser is focused down to a tiny spot and an XY stage is used to position the beam over the EP. Quite a bit of power is required too, makes a full power PEQ-15 look eye safe in comparison. |
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Lasers damage the photocathode, not the screen. Yes, the phosphor screen can degrade over time from being stimulated but the rate of degradation is much slower than the rate at which the photocathode degrades. The EP that I zapped was on the screen side and would persist for a few seconds even with the power removed from the tube. That same EP would be equally bright if I were to disconnect the PC and MCP in wires from the intensifier module itself. In other words, the tube could be rendered completely unresponsive to input light and the EP would still sit on the screen. Most EPs that I've seen on Gen 3 tubes are on the screen side. Don't know if it's because of my limited sample size, that they are far more obvious and annoying than input side EPs, that tubes are more predisposed to screen side EPs, or what. Screen side EPs can also grow and destroy a sizable fraction of the screen area while continuing to glow in the process. Input side EPs are zapped by going thru the photocathode with a laser. The GaAs photocathode is transparent above a certain wavelength in the near IR region (~890nm for pure GaAs, dopants might change it, tube PCs are transparent by 950nm). Screen side EPs are zapped by going through the screen. A laser is focused down to a tiny spot and an XY stage is used to position the beam over the EP. Quite a bit of power is required too, makes a full power PEQ-15 look eye safe in comparison. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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In theory, wouldn't this be pretty straightforward? We know that shining a laser directly into the tube (even a 0.7mW IR laser) will eventually cause a burn in the screen. Couldn't you just set up a PVS-14 on a tripod, set the laser on another tripod, aim the laser at the EP, turn it on and wait until it burns in? Most EPs that I've seen on Gen 3 tubes are on the screen side. Don't know if it's because of my limited sample size, that they are far more obvious and annoying than input side EPs, that tubes are more predisposed to screen side EPs, or what. Screen side EPs can also grow and destroy a sizable fraction of the screen area while continuing to glow in the process. Input side EPs are zapped by going thru the photocathode with a laser. The GaAs photocathode is transparent above a certain wavelength in the near IR region (~890nm for pure GaAs, dopants might change it, tube PCs are transparent by 950nm). Screen side EPs are zapped by going through the screen. A laser is focused down to a tiny spot and an XY stage is used to position the beam over the EP. Quite a bit of power is required too, makes a full power PEQ-15 look eye safe in comparison. |
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How are you guys mounting these to a helmet?
Mine have some kind of rail but I think I need some kind of adapter. |
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