I have started using the lanolin/alcohol resizing lubricant.  Then, wet tumbling for about an hour to wash the lubricant off.  Would there be any issue with just leaving the lubricant on the cases for long term storage?  I'm thinking this might be a good deterrent to corrosion or tarnishing.

I store my processed brass in buckets with a food grade lid, after they’ve been washed and dried as a last step.  I just opened one of the buckets to check and the brass is still as shiny as it was the day they went in.  According to my label that was 4 years ago.

I would remove it prior to storage and tumble with nufinish.

Minimize handling and store airtight. Should stay shiny.

I have never used lanolin, but I assume it is no Bueno for protecting brass, nor is it primer/powder safe.

Don’t let the lube dry, it will much more difficult to remove.

When the lube is still wet it removes with dish soap and hot water by just tumbling in a tub by hand for 15 seconds or so.

Once tumbled or sized, washed and dried, I store in semi sealed tubs or buckets. It may turn a darker yellow over time but it does cause anymore problem than loaded ammo doing the same.

It is a decent way to add some corrosion resistance.  The difference between dry tumbled brass and wet tumbled brass is dramatic.  

If you wet tumble (wash) your brass, yes, you can seal your brass away but once exposed, it will begin to tarnish, your fingers may leave finger prints, etc.

Some people who wet tumble their brass have even reported reloading troubles because there is absolutely no lube on the brass.

I have some resized brass that have been covered in Dillon spray lube for years.  They are fine.  The years-old lanolin lube tumbles off as quickly as any other lube.

Dry tumbling brass leaves behind an ultra-thin skin of lube which I actually like/appreciate.

If you want to prevent corrosion over the really long term, you have to seal your brass in a container.

I clean all my prepped brass before storage.  Then in to an ammo can with good seals and a desiccant pack for good measure.  I used to just throw them into a can but I've lost some brass to corrosion.  I haven't lost one shell sense the change.

I noticed some lanolin lube on the bench top in a few places and it was very gummy. The bench top has a sealant on it so the lube didn't penetrate into the wood.

I tried soap and water to remove it, but it just smeared. Once I used some alcohol, it came right off.

From this experience, I would be hesitant to leave the lube on brass for an extended period of time unless you plan to use alcohol to remove it down the road. I'd be afraid of gummy reside left inside the case.

After sizing, I tumble in dry media with some car wax and a little odorless mineral spirits, then store in ziplock bags.  

I've got brass that has been stored over 20 years this way and it hasn't tarnished much from what I can tell. It was done before wet tumbling became a thing, so it wasn't as shiny to begin with. I find dry media stuck inside some cases so even this method isn't perfect.  

Use your Food Saver if you have one.  Make sure they are clean and ready to load before storage though.  Even primed is better!  If like me, you need them when you break them out and you do not want the extra step of cleaning.

I store clean brass in baggies, coffee cans (with lids), plastic containers or whatever is handy; no dessicants, etc. Couldn't imagine storing lubed brass or brass with any sort of residue, but have never tried it. Brass storage is pretty simple.

I'll complete all steps of prep then store in bulk in plastic coffee cans or gallon ziploc bags. Often i'll bulk prime before storing as well. Never an issue with clean brass and it is ready to load right now whenever I want more.

ETA: clean as in spotless with no remaining lube. If it tarnished slightly while exposed to air no big deal - look at your fingers after loading xm193 or xm855 into mags and then do the same with reloads. Which one leaves you with cleaner hands?

Agreed, however, there is also nothing wrong with leaving lube on them for a long time.  Walnut media with the usual capful of paint thinner takes it right off and you are ready to go.

Lanolin has been the basis for the lubrication of brass wind instruments for much longer than brass being used for cartridges.

The points folks have raised are all still valid in that polymerization can make it stiffen and get gummy, but at least it doesn't have a record of creating a problem like brass corrosion or verdigris.

I don't see the point of leaving a lot of it on the brass, but at least one doesn't tend to need to wash it off with a solvent to protect the brass from it for long term effects or anything like that.

Some lubricants are not meant for long term storage on brass, but those were not common outside of industrial use anyway.

Thanks for all the replys.  Sounds like it might be best to remove lubricant, but on the other hand, some seem to have no problem with the lube left on.  I store my brass in good containers so corrosion really has not been a problem, but I'm always looking for better solutions.

Dish soap has phosphates that will tarnish the brash.  Use laundry soap instead.

I put it in a bucket, run hot water and a dash of laundry soap, rinse several times.  

Throw the brass in front of the dehumidifier for a couple of hours to dry off. (I used to put them on a cookie sheet in the oven for half an hour at 250°, but my wife caught me using her Pampered Chef pans, and that ended...quickly.  )

I've also started using an old food dehydrator to dry the brass, but it doesn't have the volume I need for a bucket of brass.

Is there anyone on here that hasn't gotten in trouble with the wife over some gun or car part going into the oven?  LOL

My second wet tumble gets no pins and I substitute dawn dish soap with Armorall wash-n-wax. Stored in gallon zip-loc bacs in plastic bins and they stay minty fresh.