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Posted: 2/21/2020 6:34:10 PM EDT
I don't know. Maybe you can, but I could never get any purchase on the selector switch knob on my Steiner/LDI DBAL type lasers.

Hard to tell where that stubby knob was pointing, too. So, I took it off and installed these military knobs. The source is listed. They are $7.18 each plus a few bucks for shipping. These have a phosphorescent line on them. Not often found. Tape that over if you don't like it. I do like it.

If you buy knobs, here is what you need to know:
The selector switch has an 1/8" shaft with a flat side. On mine, the flat sides point "up" when the switch is in the OFF position. Perfect for these knobs, because one of the screws is aligned on that flat.
Go easy on that OEM switch knob when you remove it. The set screw is potted with a hard-ish plastic compound. You have to apply steady, persistent pressure with something like a dental tool to slowly pierce into it. The tool will sink in ever-so-slowly. If yours is potted like mine with a clear substance, you will see the stuff pop free of the knob and set screw. Then pry it out. Mine came out in two chunks.
Careful. The knob can turn while you are stabbing at this, and then you will stab your thumb or scratch the device. Go slow. I warned you, so don't come crying to ME.

Here are a couple pictures of the replacement knob on the DBAL-I2. Clears and stops at the limit pins just fine. In the "HIGH" settings the pointer barely protrudes past the body of the laser. But it is "tall" enough to grab.
I prefer this knob. It is easy to grasp. It is easy to switch with my weak hand thumb. It is easy to see with a glance or by feel where the knob is pointing.

Here is where I bought mine. I started with two to see whether they would fit correctly and work. Just ordered another two.
See eBay item 230321215248 The seller is kentelectronics

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Link Posted: 2/21/2020 6:58:12 PM EDT
[#1]
Great mod. I'm happy with the standard knob, but I don't shoot with gloves on which is where this mod will definitely help. Thanks for sharing.
Link Posted: 2/21/2020 7:20:24 PM EDT
[#2]
Link Posted: 2/21/2020 7:36:00 PM EDT
[#3]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Look like the old "test" switches on the PSR1A seismic intrusion detector.

FWIW, I've seen/tested/sold probably ten thousand of those sets over the last 28 years in business and I can't remember ONE of those switches broken. So good job on picking a solid switch!
View Quote
I ordered these knobs to replace knobs on a PRC104. Once they were in my hand, I remembered the lasers. That's where they ended up. Next batch go on the radio. Wish I had a couple PSR-1 sets. I much prefer hearing the ground sounds to being pestered by alarms.
Link Posted: 2/28/2020 10:27:38 AM EDT
[#4]
A couple things I didn't mention.

First, the set screws in these military knobs are spline d. Use spline wrenches rather than Allen wrenches or change the set screws to whatever you prefer.

Second, the metal insert that surrounds the switch shaft inside the plastic knob, is placed at different depths in different versions of any knob. They are chosen by the OEM to match the front panel and switch mechanical characteristics. Some are deeply set into the knob. Some are flush. Some fit different shaft diameters. Some have a flat side to mate with a flat shaft. It varies. The DBAL switch is mounted with the hardware against the exposed surface of the housing and the shaft is pretty short. The particular knob I linked to will cover the switch hardware and can reach clear to the surface of the housing, but the inset still allows good set screw purchase against the shaft (mine, anyway). If you consider another similar knob, remember that, if for instance the metal insert in the knob is flush with the back side of the plastic knob, you may end up with a gap behind the knob. That gap can be as thick as the switch mounting hardware and the "top" of the switch that much higher above the enclosure surface..

Keep those things in mind.
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