Posted: 8/12/2020 12:38:56 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 8/12/2020 12:40:01 PM EDT by networkguru]
I have been studying case annealing in the DIY context.
Extensively with many guides read and watched.
I am going to try to use the tempilac and socket method to anneal my converted 300blk brass.
But my deep well socket is only allowing 9mm of exposed brass.
I can put a shim in it to push the brass out more, sure.
But my question is, does it really matter if I anneal past the shoulder?
Everyone always mentions annealing for accuracy.
And that is related to neck tension around the bullet.
Yes I have read it helps forming the brass too.
It can help with split necks etc.
My press has no issue forming unannealed .223 brass to 300blk.
No signs of split necks.
I see that my 223 brass is annealed past the shoulder.
Does it really matter?
Is there a ideal exposed length out of the deep well socked for 300blk?
Well I annealed some cases today.
I used a small camping propane bottle with a 90deg shaft torch.
Its for mapp but worked great.
Bottle is pretty stable and you can use a propane base if you wanted.
Went well. I wore a head lamp and could see the tempilac very clearly.
It was very obvious when it changed.
I used my 12v Bosch drill.
I could still see the tempilac at decent rotation but settled for a manageable speed.
I held the brass about .75" away from the torch mouth.
I counted off 1 mississippi, 2 mississippi, etc to gauge approximately how long it takes.
Pretty much the tempilac changed right as I said 4.
Of course I used tempilac on every case.
I also painted a line of tempilac on the outside of a piece of brass from neck to base to see how hot the lower part got.
The tempilac really only changed where it was in the flame.
Sounds like you did a solid job.
I’m far less scientific than that for my annealing.
I just use the candle method, and get reasonable results that way.