Simply you need a chrono to have any kind of accuracy.
If you're just trying to figure for hitting steel out to like 4-500yds, the internet should get you there and you can figure the rest.
If you're getting into reloading and want to copy a factory load that your rifle likes to save ammo costs on, say a premium bullet that you'll use a lot of for Prarie dogs or shooting matches, etc... you could work up to what is safe, and then work back until your drops at range are the same.
So you get the load in the ballpark and then go like .2gr increments until your 100yd zero or whatever has the same drop at 300 that the factory stuff does, but likely with much tighter groups. If you're lucky, they'll shoot the same POI to zero so you can use either ammo without worry.
You of course MUST use the SAME bullet, which is going to be hard to do with say a 55gr .223, but could very easily be done with say winchester power points or nosler varmageddon (insert whatever name brand bullet offered in factory ammo that you might use).
Using common bullets with known BCs, you could also measure your drop (along with height over bore and all that shit), plug it into the calculator, and play with the input velocity until it lines up. That ought to get you +/- 25fps if you have good environmental data, and can print good groups at a decent range. I would probably use 300yds at a minimum.