Aluma-Hyde II on Lancer Carbon Fiber FF tube... any helpful hints ? - Page 1

Site Notices

TNVC Partners With Envision Technology - MARS Rangefinder Family, MARS-Lc!

[ARCHIVED THREAD] - Aluma-Hyde II on Lancer Carbon Fiber FF tube... any helpful hints ?

Posted: 2/11/2018 2:49:50 PM EDT

I'd like to paint my Lancer Carbon Fiber free float tube to match the Magpul FDE furniture.

I will be using the Coyote color.. since from online reviews, it appears to match Magpul FDE closest.

I have read about the clear coats on CF products, and that you shouldn't sand through it... EVER.

So I am planning on wiping it down with a solvent to "degrease" it...with either a Xylene or Tolulene since that is the main solvent as per the SDS.

I am considering using the clothes dryer for a suitable 90ish degree drying / curing area, I have one with a shoe/ boot shelf gizmo that you put in, that allows the dryer to run , and whatever to sit on the shelf to dry. I will make a "jig" to spray the handguard, and then allow me to lay it horizontally into the dryer.

I am comfortable that one of the dryer temp. settings will be close enough to 90 degrees.. ( I'll check with a thermometer on the shelf, prior to doing it )

I will be following the Brownells instructions closely...

"
Aluma-Hyde II dries to the touch in only minutes and reaches full cure in about a week. Here’s the way we apply it: Warm the part and the Aluma-Hyde II to about 90? F.; spend a couple of minutes shaking the daylights out of the Aluma-Hyde II and apply a medium coat for good coverage. You can recoat in a few minutes but don’t wait more than thirty minutes. Once Aluma-Hyde II starts curing, you must wait until it’s fully cured to recoat. You can cut the cure time to approximately two days by circulating warm air (90? F. works fine) past the part. Absolutely no primer coat is required for a tough, durable, abrasion-resistant, rustproof finish that blends beautifully and compliments all gun finishing applications.

I am also going to tape the interior of the slots, etc so the paint doesn't get all messy inside.

Anyone else have some helpful insight or comments ?

I would appreciate the input.

Posted: 2/11/2018 2:48:06 PM EDT

[#1]

AH-II magpul FDE is a closer match these days I believe from what I've sprayed with it. Need to shake the uber shit out of the can, I would break the mags down and hose them inside and out to clean. Warm to about 90/100 but baking is supposed to be at 195 degrees. Use a heat gun or hair dryer bwtn coats to warm and speed up the flashing for recoating. Bwtn coats I would take the nozzle off a can of break cleaner and remove the AH nozzle and place it on the break cleaner to blast out any build up of AH, helps keep the nozzle clean.

Trigger guard is unsprayed magpul fde the lower/rec. is AH-II magpul fde

This go around there is slight difference, factory magpul furniture fde

Be advised, purchasing a few spare spray nozzles isn't a bad idea at all. I had one new can where original nozzle wasn't shooting correctly, off it came and on went a spare. Do a little test spray on a piece of cardboard before each application, you will see quickly if somethings not right with the spray pattern.

Posted: 2/11/2018 3:55:22 PM EDT

[#2]

Thanks for the move !! I knew there was a better forum...

And thanks for the nozzle info and other info.

Posted: 2/14/2018 10:21:33 PM EDT

[#3]

I agree that lately the Magpul FDE is a much better match than the Coyote. (The coyote is closer to gray)

Posted: 2/15/2018 10:27:25 PM EDT

[#4]

Quote History

Quoted:
I agree that lately the Magpul FDE is a much better match than the Coyote. (The coyote is closer to gray)

View Quote

thanks for the feed back... ironically the threads I checked , suggested the opposite.

The Aluma -Hyde is on back order so I just ordered some of both and the OD.

Posted: 2/16/2018 9:59:46 PM EDT

[#5]

I have used a lot of Aluma-Hyde II in Magpul FDE and IMO it is a much closer match than coyote. Years ago Coyote was a great match but not sice they brought out the MP FDE. I have sprayed everything from steel, stainless steel, and aluminum as well as Cro-Mo and parkerized Cro-Mo, to wood and plastic stocks, but never carbon fiber. What I would do is scuff the CF with a Scotch-brite pad, LIGHTLY, spray a light coat, blow dry it to skin it over, and recoat. Repeat until covered, then bake at 200-220*F for two hours. That will completely cure it. I have not followed the directions on the can for over 15 years on the advice of others and have had much better results baking it rather than letting it cure a week naturally or blowing 90*F air on it, which still takes forever. 200-220*F. Bake it and be done with it.
The temp is not critical, 180-220, but do not go higher than 225*F. I have gone higher accidentally and the finish will bubble, and it can be a bitch to get off. Soaking in Acetone will remove it but only on metal/aluminum parts, never plastic or wood. I would not think Acetone would be good for CF either.

IMO a spray nozzle is a one time use. Get a dozen or so as well as clean out nozzles. Shake the hell out of it, a full three minutes, use a blow out nozzle to clear the tube, put on a NEW spray nozzle and get on with it. Blow out nozzles can be used many times but I promise you, if you don’t change the spray nozzle each time you use it (if more than an hour or so has passed since you used it last) it will bite you in the ass.

[ARCHIVED THREAD] - Aluma-Hyde II on Lancer Carbon Fiber FF tube... any helpful hints ?

Armory » Refinishing

Win a FREE Membership!

Sign up for the ARFCOM weekly newsletter and be entered to win a free ARFCOM membership. One new winner* is announced every week!

You will receive an email every Friday morning featuring the latest chatter from the hottest topics, breaking news surrounding legislation, as well as exclusive deals only available to ARFCOM email subscribers.

Warning

Confirm Action

About AR15.COM

Stay Connected

Newsletter

Contact Us