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Posted: 12/4/2021 6:42:10 PM EDT
I'm planning to spray my 11-87, which has the "rougher" blued finish that seems to rust if I look at it wrong.

I've used Duracoat aerosol on other projects but don't have any experience with Aluma-Hyde...Duracoat was pretty thick and (if I remember correctly) it only required 2 or 3 coats.

I've read that some apply up to 6 coats of Aluma-Hyde so I wanted to see if that's typical and if there are any suggestions (I know that prep is key) for best results?

Thanks in advance.

Link Posted: 12/4/2021 7:54:11 PM EDT
[#1]
Until the item is fully, and completely covered. Be careful not to overdo the coverage or assembly issues could result in areas like pin holes and threaded areas.
Link Posted: 12/4/2021 8:01:29 PM EDT
[#2]
I used to use this stuff in the ban era to refinish mags.  Didn't need many coats but you have to cook it in an oven to make it work properly.
Link Posted: 12/4/2021 9:07:37 PM EDT
[#3]
I redid my old 10-22 last winter and used 3-coats, all applied 20-minutes after the last.
I used a heat gun to keep the piece warm during the whole process, and it turned out very nice.

ETA: Oven cure is not necessary, just air dry for a couple of weeks at room temp.
Link Posted: 12/4/2021 10:50:48 PM EDT
[#4]
I'm thinking that the rough bluing will provide a good surface to paint over (after a thorough degreasing) or should I lightly sand it first?
Link Posted: 12/5/2021 1:08:34 PM EDT
[#5]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
I redid my old 10-22 last winter and used 3-coats, all applied 20-minutes after the last.
I used a heat gun to keep the piece warm during the whole process, and it turned out very nice.

ETA: Oven cure is not necessary, just air dry for a couple of weeks at room temp.
View Quote


I found that the finish was much tougher if baked.  
Link Posted: 12/5/2021 1:55:49 PM EDT
[#6]
I've read that it's not needed but does help the cure process to bake it at a low temp (175 - 195) for 2 - 3 hours.
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