Just for laughs--don't plan on using it.  Cogburn Arsenal offers such.  Since barrel of the rifle tapers where device is installed, was looking for advice.  I have an e-mail to them, but they are a little bit slow on responding, for reasons.

No advice, but I'm definitely interested in the outcome for my own scout

You are a bad influence and have negatively affected my bank account.

I reject your version of reality, and substitute my own.

Was looking at the Cogburn one but ended up with a different one to try on a Mini 14 tactical.  Ended up ordering the "custom" size of .625 and had it in less that a week.  Seems to work although I haven't had the opportunity to get stabby with it.

https://triple-r-products.com/products-1/ols/products/clamp-on-bolt-on-ar15-bayonet-lug


Was thinking about trying one for my Scout Rifle, too.  Not sure what size as I didn't look too closely at it to determine how much taper there was, yet.

Any updates on this?

Waiting the usual lengthy delivery time.  Always got my stuff, correctly made, in the past.  IMHO, the mfr might consider adding some help.  Running printers is not as involved as programming them.

Answering customer questions is also useful, if done in a timely manner.  Charging consumer Credit Cards prior to shipping is not customary industry standard.

My CC was charged on receipt of my order, but waiting months for my item.  Waited a long time for previous items, as expected, and delivered.

Mfr needs to upgrade his manufacturing capabilities, and Customer Service.

Good products, but mfr can do better for his business, and his customers, by responding to their questions. in a timely manner.

Classic example of a "one-person shop" being overwhelmed with e-mails.  Hire someone trusted to be able to deal with e-mails, or restrict your business.

Would it be possible to use a low profile clamp AR gas block with bayonet lug?

I regret to say that multiple msgs/e-mails on my part,  to the mfr, have come with zero responses.

That thing looks super DUPER crude. As in would be laughed at by a soviet design bureau crude. You could probably count on it marring the shit out of the barrel.

Item arrived.  Was bought undersized, so that I could sand the inner bore with a Dremel to fit my tapered barrel.

Given the number of projects surrently ongoing, I have no idea on what point in time I might get to it.

Will advise at that point.

Crude it might be, but I'm using it in an application for which it was never designed.

It's rounded in all the right places, and has no excess metal.  Call it "minimalist", but functional.

If you choose to make your own, more sophisticated version, please let me know.

Interesting.  Installed on what barrel/application?  Straight barrel or tapered barrel?  I assume you lightly drilled "divots" into the appropriate places on the barrel into which the carefully "tapered" ends of the set screws would seat.

Many different applications, and many possible solutions.  What is suitable in a given application may not be suitable in a different application.

Just "imagining" things, but a single set-screw, drilled and tapped through the thickest part of the bottom of the base (the lug itself) ought to be sufficient, given an appropriately tapered set screw, and suitable "divot" lightly drilled into the barrel to accept it.

The bayo lug is unlikely to be forced backwards, since the bayonet ring is placed adjacent to the immoveable front sight, on my GSR.  It is also prevented from moving backwards by the taper of the GSR barrel.

The set-screw through the base of the lug is simply there to prevent the Bayo base from moving forwards on the barrel, in the case of the bayonet being "stuck" in some manner.

Having read some accounts of "difficulties" on extracting bayonets from opponents, it seems worthwhile to ensure the bayo lug is immoveable in both directons.

One does not always have the opportunity to "correctly" insert the bayonet into the "corrrect" location.

Human bayonet use would require horizontal bayonet orientation, while horse bayonet use would require vertical bayonet orientation.

Most militaries just kept on with their WW 1 bayo configurations, on acount of inertia, and simple cost factors.

Most Bayonet use against humans is intended for intimidation purposes, and not for lethal effect.

Ever seen a "wall" of armed troops marching against one with bayonets displayed?

I have, and it's an intimidating sight.

I once was able to discuss this with Anthony "Cold Steel" Walker (USMC).

I borrowed some rare books from Walker, and subsequently returned them, much to his obvious surprise, and delight.

RIP Colonel.  Thanks for trusting me with your books.  Glad to return your trust.  Semper Fi.

https://marineraiderassociation.org/walker-anthony/

That's an interesting feature.

Of course, I don't expect to actually use the bayonet as a sticker.  This is just a little project of mine, and best of luck to you with your project.

Bayonet lug installed.  I found that portion of the lug that interfaced with the socket/locking levers on the bayonet needed a little bit of careful Dremel-grinding and then some light sanding on some surfaces in order to allow the elderly but cleaned-up M7 bayonet to easily seat and be easily removed.
The bayo lug, being somewhat "tilted" on the tapered barrel, required this very slight "massaging".  

Used Casey "Aluminum Black" to darken the bright metal.  Blueing compound from same mfr was Unsat

The clamp sits on the barrel with a "taper" clamp that suits the barrel profile nicely.  I used some Red Loctite (High-Temp) on the clamping surfaces after de-greasing.

Given a tight and tapered clamp on the barrel, using supplied Allen wrench, I very much doubt the bayo lug will ever move backwards on the barrel, as that would be against the barrel's taper.  If the item ever shows a tendency to move forward, as in user withdrawing a stuck bayonet, then I'll drill and tap a hole in the bottom of the lug and install a flush, threaded Stainless steel set screw (perhaps with a small "divot" for same in the barrel) to lock the unit into place.  Anyone seeking another bayo lug orientation other than vertical can apply same knowledge.

Since I have a YHM purpose-made .308 A2-style flash suppressor on the rifle, I elected to mount the bayo lug so that the bayo ring engages the forward part of the flash suppressor, thus exposing more of the bayo blade.  Since the A2 style .308 YHM flash suppressor has a closed bottom, I anticipate (hope) for no muzzle-induced heat degradation of the plastic.  We'll see.

Sidenote:  Beware of flash suppressors for .308 rifles which are simply re-worked 5.56 flash suppressors.  The .308 ctg expels more hot gasses than does the 5.56 ctg, and needs a bigger, purpose-made flash suppressor.  Simple physics.

All, in all, looks nice, and I'm satisfied with it so far.  As mentioned, I don't anticipate ever having to "Fix Bayonet".

But always nice to have options, don't you agree?