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Posted: 4/16/2018 6:11:57 PM EDT
I just installed an Accu-Strut LT to my 1985 Mini-14. I am hesitant to install the red locktighted set screws to the gas block base because I don't want to have to take a heating torch to remove them later. I have used blue lock tight on the vertical struts. Is it absolutely necessary to use the small set screws to attach the strut to the gas block?
pic Attached File |
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[#1]
Not a torch... a heat gun.
Much like a blow dryer, but much hotter! |
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[#2]
If you don't attach the thing as it was designed to be attached, then it will not work as designed.
So, yes, you must use the screws on the gas block. |
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[#3]
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[#4]
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[#5]
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Damn. What about using blue instead of red? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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If you don't attach the thing as it was designed to be attached, then it will not work as designed. So, yes, you must use the screws on the gas block. One thing that might make a difference is to replace the very wide gas bushing contained within the gas block with a much smaller bushing. Accuracy Systems supplies them. I used the second smallest, I.E. one larger than the smallest orifice available, in my Mini. I believe the I.D. as .040". No functionality issues. What this does is divert less gas from behind the bullet, and so less gas through the gas block itself, thus the block heats up more slowly, all other things being equal. The working of the action is much less violent, and the bullet's velocity is slightly increased, both good things, and there is some evidence that accuracy is improved a little. http://www.ruger-mini-14-firearms.com/Gas-Reduction-Bushing-Kit.php Naturally, this is much more easily done prior to installation of the AccuStrut. If you do so, obtain new screws for the gas block, and torque them to the correct spec. Make certain that the gas block is centered on the barrel in all directions (fore-and-aft, and rotationally, and ensure that the gap on either side of the gas block, between the upper and lower sections of the gas block, is identical. The folks at Accuracy systems can sell you the screws, and provide the correct torque figure. Here is a discussion on how to fit the gas bushings, and to properly assemble the gas block: http://rugerforum.net/ruger-semi-auto/127252-mini-14-removing-gas-block-installing-asi-gas-bushing.html Having done the gas bushing switch-over, and having ensured that the gas block is located, assembled, and torqued properly, there is almost no chance you will need to visit that portion of the Mini ever again. Since the AccuStrut has been demonstrated to work, there should be no problem with using the Loctite supplied, since you will never need, or want, to take it off. |
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[#6]
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Given how heavy this has made the mini, I'm not sure I want to keep it on there, hence the question. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Not a torch... a heat gun. Much like a blow dryer, but much hotter! http://accu-strut.com/pages/more%20info_XD.htm |
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[#8]
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EagleArmsHBAR, nice OE straight 20rd mag. I've got 5 of them and they perform flawlessly. Even better than my 5 Ruger brand curved 20rd mags I got with my newer style, 583 series Mini because they have a welded on lug to engage the mag catch vice the bent flange the Ruger mags have. As to your question on the set screws locking your Accu-Strut to the gas block, as you can see, I have the SOCOM version that's lighter and as it only has 1 clamp, I also drilled in a small dimple on each side to allow the set screws to bite into the gas block as it's supported by only a single clamp. However, I didn't use any locktite on it; I just keep an eye on it to make sure they stay tight. As you have 2 sets of clamps because you're barrel is the thinner, pencil version that needs the stiffening support of the 2 clamps, the set screws don't have to support the tube but only keep it from moving fore and aft. I'd dimple the gas block where the set screws contact it and call it good. https://i.imgur.com/39j2Tdw.jpg View Quote |
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[#9]
Quoted:
EagleArmsHBAR, nice OE straight 20rd mag. I've got 5 of them and they perform flawlessly. Even better than my 5 Ruger brand curved 20rd mags I got with my newer style, 583 series Mini because they have a welded on lug to engage the mag catch vice the bent flange the Ruger mags have. As to your question on the set screws locking your Accu-Strut to the gas block, as you can see, I have the SOCOM version that's lighter and as it only has 1 clamp, I also drilled in a small dimple on each side to allow the set screws to bite into the gas block as it's supported by only a single clamp. However, I didn't use any locktite on it; I just keep an eye on it to make sure they stay tight. As you have 2 sets of clamps because you're barrel is the thinner, pencil version that needs the stiffening support of the 2 clamps, the set screws don't have to support the tube but only keep it from moving fore and aft. I'd dimple the gas block where the set screws contact it and call it good. https://i.imgur.com/39j2Tdw.jpg View Quote If you wish to make the most of it, use the two-clamp XDrill AccuStrut. More rigidity than the SOCOM; less weight than standard model. Again, no offense intended. |
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[#10]
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Intending no offense to above poster, I do not suggest the use of the single-clamp SOCOM AccuStrut. Although it is lighter than the standard version, the two-bracket model far greater rigidity than the single-clamp unit. Look at the SOCOM version; the point where it attaches to gas block becomes a vertical pivot, whereas the two-clamp model avoids such pivot point by use of second clamp nearest the gas block. I didn't bother doing so when mounting my XDrill strut, but it can do no harm, and likely some good, to drill a couple of divots for the screws on the strut which attach to the gas block. If you wish to make the most of it, use the two-clamp XDrill AccuStrut. More rigidity than the SOCOM; less weight than standard model. Again, no offense intended. View Quote |
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[#11]
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I appreciate the advice on the XDrill Accu-Strut, but I am not a fan of the barrel shroud look. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Intending no offense to above poster, I do not suggest the use of the single-clamp SOCOM AccuStrut. Although it is lighter than the standard version, the two-bracket model far greater rigidity than the single-clamp unit. Look at the SOCOM version; the point where it attaches to gas block becomes a vertical pivot, whereas the two-clamp model avoids such pivot point by use of second clamp nearest the gas block. I didn't bother doing so when mounting my XDrill strut, but it can do no harm, and likely some good, to drill a couple of divots for the screws on the strut which attach to the gas block. If you wish to make the most of it, use the two-clamp XDrill AccuStrut. More rigidity than the SOCOM; less weight than standard model. Again, no offense intended. |
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[#12]
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[#13]
Quoted:
Intending no offense to above poster, I do not suggest the use of the single-clamp SOCOM AccuStrut. Although it is lighter than the standard version, the two-bracket model far greater rigidity than the single-clamp unit. Look at the SOCOM version; the point where it attaches to gas block becomes a vertical pivot, whereas the two-clamp model avoids such pivot point by use of second clamp nearest the gas block. I didn't bother doing so when mounting my XDrill strut, but it can do no harm, and likely some good, to drill a couple of divots for the screws on the strut which attach to the gas block. If you wish to make the most of it, use the two-clamp XDrill AccuStrut. More rigidity than the SOCOM; less weight than standard model. Again, no offense intended. View Quote Second, I have a 583 series Mini and it comes with a thicker and therefore, stiffer barrel that doesn't need the strut for stiffening. As I've said over and over in this forum, it's for the 'M-14 look' and as a heat sink, not for stiffening. Barrel heating is always a concern and the use of the SOCOM length version along with a Choate HG with it's vastly superior cooling capability over the stock Ruger HG significantly reduces barrel heating. |
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[#14]
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Google Mini-14 barrel shroud and you'll see what I mean. I ended up removing the red loctite, dimpled the gas block, and installed the set screws with blue loctite. View Quote |
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[#15]
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We understand what a Mini-14 with a barrel shroud looks like but the Accu-Strut with holes doesn't go around the barrel, it goes under it so I guess some of us are puzzled by your use of that analogy. Whatever, dimpling the gas block and then blue locktite is the way to go so you should be set. View Quote |
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[#16]
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My point was that i don't like barrel shrouds on Mini-14s, or anything that looks like a barrel shroud. The pics of the xDrill strut looks like a barrel shroud mounted under the barrel. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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We understand what a Mini-14 with a barrel shroud looks like but the Accu-Strut with holes doesn't go around the barrel, it goes under it so I guess some of us are puzzled by your use of that analogy. Whatever, dimpling the gas block and then blue locktite is the way to go so you should be set. Keep in mind, while doing so, that your choice, apparently greatly influenced by appearance, might not the best choice with respect to outcome. That is, in terms of obtaining the lightest-weight, most effective AccuStrut possible. I say this as one who searched the interwebs long and hard before settling on the XDrill as optimal for me. Outcome, was paramount, and appearance was very much secondary. No insult intended, naturally. We all have our personal preferences. |
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[#17]
Quoted:
First, no offense taken. Second, I have a 583 series Mini and it comes with a thicker and therefore, stiffer barrel that doesn't need the strut for stiffening. As I've said over and over in this forum, it's for the 'M-14 look' and as a heat sink, not for stiffening. Barrel heating is always a concern and the use of the SOCOM length version along with a Choate HG with it's vastly superior cooling capability over the stock Ruger HG significantly reduces barrel heating. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Quoted:
Intending no offense to above poster, I do not suggest the use of the single-clamp SOCOM AccuStrut. Although it is lighter than the standard version, the two-bracket model far greater rigidity than the single-clamp unit. Look at the SOCOM version; the point where it attaches to gas block becomes a vertical pivot, whereas the two-clamp model avoids such pivot point by use of second clamp nearest the gas block. I didn't bother doing so when mounting my XDrill strut, but it can do no harm, and likely some good, to drill a couple of divots for the screws on the strut which attach to the gas block. If you wish to make the most of it, use the two-clamp XDrill AccuStrut. More rigidity than the SOCOM; less weight than standard model. Again, no offense intended. Second, I have a 583 series Mini and it comes with a thicker and therefore, stiffer barrel that doesn't need the strut for stiffening. As I've said over and over in this forum, it's for the 'M-14 look' and as a heat sink, not for stiffening. Barrel heating is always a concern and the use of the SOCOM length version along with a Choate HG with it's vastly superior cooling capability over the stock Ruger HG significantly reduces barrel heating. I Cryo-treated my pencil-barrel Mini, and the results convinced me to have a number of other semi-auto rifles sent off for treatment. Doing so was a significant improvement with all the firearms so treated. A simpler way to vent the Mini barrel is after installing a Choate HG, to drill a few holes in the bottom of the fore end of the rifle stock to admit cooling air below the barrel. The Choate HG has plenty of cooling slots, but without cold air coming in underneath the barrel, they are almost useless. They are starved for incoming, cool air. Hot air wants to go upwards, through the cooling slots in the Choate HG, but it must be replaced by cool air coming in from underneath, else little real cooling occurs. As long as one has the metal heat shield installed within the fore end of the stock, drilling holes in the underside of the stock, to supply cooling air, has many positives, and no negatives. Common sense prevailing, of course; no sense over-doing it and weakening the fore end needlessly. A series of 1/4" holes drilled down the fore end about an inch apart has served me well over the last couple of decades. |
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[#18]
Increased thermal mass slows barrel heating and increased surface area allows for more rapid cooling. I'm sure your approach works for you, I just like the look of mine. To me, the front of the Mini looks funny without something. It might be aesthetics, but I'm fond of the look as it mimics my M1A quite well now.
BTW, you're lucky with cryo treating your Mini. A number of people on PerfectUnion.com have tried that with their Minis and reported poor results. Further, 6 people I personally know at our shooting club have cryo'd their ARs as part of an attempt to accurise them for our CMP shoots and all 6 say the effort didn't produce any better results. None the less, it's supposed to work so I'm glad it did for you. |
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[#19]
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Increased thermal mass slows barrel heating and increased surface area allows for more rapid cooling. I'm sure your approach works for you, I just like the look of mine. To me, the front of the Mini looks funny without something. It might be aesthetics, but I'm fond of the look as it mimics my M1A quite well now. BTW, you're lucky with cryo treating your Mini. A number of people on PerfectUnion.com have tried that with their Minis and reported poor results. Further, 6 people I personally know at our shooting club have cryo'd their ARs as part of an attempt to accurise them for our CMP shoots and all 6 say the effort didn't produce any better results. None the less, it's supposed to work so I'm glad it did for you. View Quote By the same token, I would expect that Cryo-treating an AR with the early GI 20" lightweight barrel would show more positive results than, say, a 16" heavy barrel. |
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[#20]
Poor results in that they claim it was a waste of money because it did nothing. Not my claim, theirs. I have no bone to pick, just relaying what they said to me.
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[#21]
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Poor results in that they claim it was a waste of money because it did nothing. Not my claim, theirs. I have no bone to pick, just relaying what they said to me. View Quote If the Minis which were Cryo-treated had barrels whose muzzles were worn, or for some reason, had other fundamental accuracy problems, I would not expect the Cryo-treating to show obvious results. After all, the Cryo-treating, as mentioned, serves to greatly reduce heat-induced stringing in thin barrels. By itself, Cryo treating will not cure fundamental accuracy problems, such as worn muzzle due to improper cleaning tools/technique, loose fit of barreled action within the stock, and many other possible issues. All I can say is that I did a lot of accurizing mods to my Mini before I Cryo-treated it, and had it pretty accurate--for a Mini. My only Mini experience is with a pencil-barrel Mini, and very limited beyond that. My comments should be taken in that light. Having already addressed the most important accuracy issues on my particular Mini, I was able to see the effect of Cryo-treating. It is possible that some of your friends did not jump through all these hoops, and so the benefits of Cryo-treating were not apparent. But briefly, Cryo-treating fixes (or greatly reduces) Heat-induced issues, but is NO substitute for the correction of other, possibly more fundamental problems. I might add that my StG58A FAL (from DSA) showed similar improvements after Cryo-treating with respect to hot-barrel stringing. To be honest, I did a test of all then-available muzzle devices (posted on FALFiles), and concluded that weight at the end of a thin barrel (such as found on the pencil-barrel Minis and Mil-grade FALS) was an accuracy-enhancer. So, I installed a short Choate Flash suppressor/Front Sight unit n the Mini, and a Belgian Combo unit on the FAL. Happiness in both cases. Now, let me ask a question; what model(s) were the Minis which your friends Cryo-treated? Were they older Minis, or newer ones with the thicker barrels? No problem if you do not know, naturally. Again, not trying to be contentious, and I appreciate your comments. |
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[#22]
To answer the question above, 3 guys with older, good condition Minis and 6 guys with new ARs. I'm not the one saying it didn't work for them, they are. I can say that the guys I know who used it were and are smart enough to ensure that they addressed any other accuracy problems like bad muzzle crowns, etc. as well before they cryo'd them. Cryo'ng was a big thing at our range (private club with some 1,100 members, 95% of them engineers BTW) a few years back but it didn't show to be especially helpful so it's died out as of late. However, it appears that your mileage did vary so good on you that it worked out well.
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