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Posted: 5/6/2020 2:28:15 PM EDT
[#1]
No. The stocks are for FA AUGs only.
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Posted: 5/6/2020 6:10:03 PM EDT
[#2]
The stock only works with the corresponding carrier. FA with FA or SA with SA. Interchanging guide rods would likely destroy the rivets to where you're completely out if luck with both stocks. Austria will not send guide rods to the US and the factory will not convert guide rods either. But even if you could make it work, the latch is all wrong. Modifying the latch is not advisable. You either make the receiver accept complete FA parts or you modify a FA stock to fit a semi receiver (resulting in the SA receiver being able to accept complete FA parts) - both methods will put you in prison.
Someone mentioned reusing the gasblock. That's theoretically possible but improbable due to the unique knowledge and tools needed to place the gas block in the correct position. Steyr at one time had a very large pile of barrels with screwed up gasblocks made by FN... |
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Posted: 5/6/2020 6:26:57 PM EDT
[#3]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Someone mentioned reusing the gasblock. That's theoretically possible but improbable due to the unique knowledge and tools needed to place the gas block in the correct position. Steyr at one time had a very large pile of barrels with screwed up gasblocks made by FN... Is it not simply pressed into place? Are there threads or something under there? Edit: These guys say it's just a press fit, and MSAR heated their blocks during installation, allowing them to cool around the barrel. (No mention of Steyr's method.) http://bullpupforum.com/index.php?topic=13564.0 |
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Posted: 5/6/2020 6:53:41 PM EDT
[#4]
Thanks for the info... I was hoping there would be more to salvage out of the surplus auto parts kits!
Not worth it for semi auto users then! |
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Posted: 5/6/2020 7:38:43 PM EDT
[#5]
I've mentioned making a barrel using an old gas block.
If I ever got around to trying it, I'd try to build a jig using a good barrel. My napkin sketch involves a steel tube, opposing set screws and an adjustable slip ring with a pin in it. |
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Posted: 5/6/2020 8:01:07 PM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By KitBuilder: Is it not simply pressed into place? Are there threads or something under there? Edit: These guys say it's just a press fit, and MSAR heated their blocks during installation, allowing them to cool around the barrel. (No mention of Steyr's method.) http://bullpupforum.com/index.php?topic=13564.0 There's a guy here black and green big cartoon head avatar, he used to work for MSAR and put the gasblocks on the barrels. It's my understanding that the gasblock is heated until it glows red and is then press fit in a jig onto the barrel. |
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Posted: 5/6/2020 8:03:55 PM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Dustyattic: I've mentioned making a barrel using an old gas block. If I ever got around to trying it, I'd try to build a jig using a good barrel. My napkin sketch involves a steel tube, opposing set screws and an adjustable slip ring with a pin in it. That'd work I bet. My old FFL has 10 new 9mm gasblocks for the AUG... I've thought of many ways to put the gas block on the barrel, then finish the barrel around the position of the gasblock. Cutting the lugs is the part I can't find anyone willing to do. |
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Posted: 5/6/2020 8:31:46 PM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By maleante: That'd work I bet. My old FFL has 10 new 9mm gasblocks for the AUG... I've thought of many ways to put the gas block on the barrel, then finish the barrel around the position of the gasblock. Cutting the lugs is the part I can't find anyone willing to do. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By maleante: Originally Posted By Dustyattic: I've mentioned making a barrel using an old gas block. If I ever got around to trying it, I'd try to build a jig using a good barrel. My napkin sketch involves a steel tube, opposing set screws and an adjustable slip ring with a pin in it. That'd work I bet. My old FFL has 10 new 9mm gasblocks for the AUG... I've thought of many ways to put the gas block on the barrel, then finish the barrel around the position of the gasblock. Cutting the lugs is the part I can't find anyone willing to do. Interesting. I imagine cutting the lugs first, and lining up the block on the jig last. I think you're the opposite? Either could be done equally well with a tool to line everything up. Maybe a moveable pin on the backside of the dividing head frame itself. I think you'd need a shallow chamber so you can ream to set headspace after everything else is done. I don't know, I'm no professional. I think if it were possible to get away from the interference press fit, it would save a lot of misery. Maybe if it were a nice snug slip fit with a couple of small holes drilled on the opposite side to spot weld with a TIG after everything is lined up perfectly. |
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Posted: 5/6/2020 10:38:06 PM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Dustyattic: Interesting. I imagine cutting the lugs first, and lining up the block on the jig last. I think you're the opposite? Either could be done equally well with a tool to line everything up. Maybe a moveable pin on the backside of the dividing head frame itself. I think you'd need a shallow chamber so you can ream to set headspace after everything else is done. I don't know, I'm no professional. I think if it were possible to get away from the interference press fit, it would save a lot of misery. Maybe if it were a nice snug slip fit with a couple of small holes drilled on the opposite side to spot weld with a TIG after everything is lined up perfectly. I'm pretty sure the gasblock installation is a do or die one shot process so the tool would have to be perfect. Looking at the the diameter of AUG barrels, I think you could get away with a taper pin job easily, at the expense of aesthetics and purism. |
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Posted: 5/27/2020 1:40:46 PM EDT
[#10]
Yes I've gotten it to work. Much easier than most think. I'll post some photos in a bit
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Posted: 5/27/2020 2:07:56 PM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I'll post some photos in a bit Just be careful you don't post pics of a MG (such as a modified stock latch "conversion device") unless you're authorized to register new MGs of course. |
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Posted: 5/27/2020 2:33:44 PM EDT
[#12]
Thanks for looking out, I'm a SOT 02 so all good
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Posted: 5/27/2020 2:57:01 PM EDT
[#13]
Awesome sauce.
Looking forward to pics. 
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Posted: 5/27/2020 3:56:01 PM EDT
[#14]
 Attached FileFull auto stock latch:  Attached File Proper latch for semi auto receiver:  Attached File Semi auto receiver width:  Attached FileStock nub to file down for use with long top rail:  All parts:  Attached FileJust a reminder, this a registered MG on a form 2 built by a licensed FFL 07 SOT 02 in accordance with state and federal laws. This is entirely for educational purposes. |
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Posted: 5/27/2020 4:10:44 PM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Yes I've gotten it to work. Much easier than most think. I'll post some photos in a bit Cool pictures. MG parts to semi receiver for a MG is quite easy, as you've shown us. However for anyone who is looking to use the kit to piece together a semi auto (i.e. MG parts to semi receiver for a semi auto gun) it isn't possible and the actual usable parts for a semi gun are extremely few. |
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Posted: 5/27/2020 4:18:55 PM EDT
[#16]
I'm no lawyer but if you throw in a semi auto pack, who is going to know otherwise that your stock used to be part of a MG. I'm not advocating for breaking the law, but people fear the ATF too much. They're not watching us build things in our garages
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Posted: 5/27/2020 4:38:19 PM EDT
[#17]
@AZ2A
Thanks for the pics. Are you engraving your markings on the stock latch? I've thought about going this route, but I really want to use an A3 stock, so I either need to shorten the anti-bounce rods and recoil springs inside the bolt carrier (which seems to be what most people do), shorten the guide rods inside the semi-auto A3 stock (which I think I could reach with a cut-off wheel on an extension), or transplant the guide rods from that stock to my A3 stock (which multiple AUG guys have recommended against, but I haven't found where anyone's actually tried it). 4th option: Abandon these foolish thoughts and source a new FA A3 stock from Steyr. 
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Posted: 5/27/2020 4:57:17 PM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted: @AZ2A Thanks for the pics. Are you engraving your markings on the stock latch? I've thought about going this route, but I really want to use an A3 stock, so I either need to shorten the anti-bounce rods and recoil springs inside the bolt carrier (which seems to be what most people do), shorten the guide rods inside the semi-auto A3 stock (which I think I could reach with a cut-off wheel on an extension), or transplant the guide rods from that stock to my A3 stock (which multiple AUG guys have recommended against, but I haven't found where anyone's actually tried it). 4th option: Abandon these foolish thoughts and source a new FA A3 stock from Steyr. 4th option! And I engrave all the information on the actual stock as well as the serial number on the latch just to play it safe regarding laws. Can't seem to find solid information on the legality of engraving the serial # in plastic. ETA: I'll pay a finders fee if you find a second FA A3 stock
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Posted: 5/27/2020 6:31:52 PM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I'm pretty sure the gasblock installation is a do or die one shot process so the tool would have to be perfect. Looking at the the diameter of AUG barrels, I think you could get away with a taper pin job easily, at the expense of aesthetics and purism. Quote HistoryQuoted: Originally Posted By Dustyattic: Interesting. I imagine cutting the lugs first, and lining up the block on the jig last. I think you're the opposite? Either could be done equally well with a tool to line everything up. Maybe a moveable pin on the backside of the dividing head frame itself. I think you'd need a shallow chamber so you can ream to set headspace after everything else is done. I don't know, I'm no professional. I think if it were possible to get away from the interference press fit, it would save a lot of misery. Maybe if it were a nice snug slip fit with a couple of small holes drilled on the opposite side to spot weld with a TIG after everything is lined up perfectly. I'm pretty sure the gasblock installation is a do or die one shot process so the tool would have to be perfect. Looking at the the diameter of AUG barrels, I think you could get away with a taper pin job easily, at the expense of aesthetics and purism. Is the removal and reinstalling on the gas block what makes cutting 16” barrels down to Commando length not possible? I want one but can’t afford the GunSouth imports at the price of a new AUG. I was hoping you could EDM the barrel gas port to the correct ID and rethread it. I’ve been wanting to make my M3 into a SBR just to have a commando length to go with the 16”, 20” and LMG barrels. |
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Posted: 5/28/2020 12:16:09 AM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Is the removal and reinstalling on the gas block what makes cutting 16” barrels down to Commando length not possible? I want one but can’t afford the GunSouth imports at the price of a new AUG. I was hoping you could EDM the barrel gas port to the correct ID and rethread it. I’ve been wanting to make my M3 into a SBR just to have a commando length to go with the 16”, 20” and LMG barrels. Hold tight. Steyr has new 14” barrels they’re working with. Supposedly the barrels only work with brass case ammo, they will not function properly with steel case or underpowered ammo. No idea when or how much but a wild guess says that they’re getting close to selling them and the price won’t be the cost of a new AUG. |
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Posted: 5/28/2020 12:20:57 AM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I'm no lawyer but if you throw in a semi auto pack, who is going to know otherwise that your stock used to be part of a MG. I'm not advocating for breaking the law, but people fear the ATF too much. They're not watching us build things in our garages One could make the simple argument that modification to the latch or receiver is consistent with manufacturing a MG even in the presence of a semi auto hammer pack... I’m not one to tempt fate by doing such a thing, but if someone else does then best of luck to them. |
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Posted: 5/28/2020 12:52:17 AM EDT
[#22]
then how was the transferable trigger packs done?
A buddy has one but he rarely takes it out of his AUG from the 80s. |
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Posted: 5/28/2020 1:06:33 AM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryQuoted: then how was the transferable trigger packs done? https://www.ar15.com/forums/armory/How-were-Steyr-AUG-FA-conversions-physically-done-/22-414987/ |
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Posted: 5/29/2020 6:59:10 PM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryQuoted: @AZ2A Thanks for the pics. Are you engraving your markings on the stock latch? I've thought about going this route, but I really want to use an A3 stock, so I either need to shorten the anti-bounce rods and recoil springs inside the bolt carrier (which seems to be what most people do), shorten the guide rods inside the semi-auto A3 stock (which I think I could reach with a cut-off wheel on an extension), or transplant the guide rods from that stock to my A3 stock (which multiple AUG guys have recommended against, but I haven't found where anyone's actually tried it). 4th option: Abandon these foolish thoughts and source a new FA A3 stock from Steyr. I’m about to mod and register a FA latch to use on a SA receiver and will engrave the latch. I think milling a FA pack to fit a SA receiver, registering the plastic pack housing, and the cut down anti-bounce rods to fit SA stock is probably the easiest way to use an A3 stock. FA A3 stocks seem like unobtainium. |
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