My setup is a Galil ACE in 7.62 NATO, which I am planning on putting an Aimpoint Comp2 with an LT150 mount. I don't like the cheek riser.

Looks like the go to for a 5.56 rifle is 50/200. What would be the 7.62 equivalent? Obviously there's more factors but I'm trying to learn and choose one.

I'm going to zero with M80 ammo and the furthest I shoot is 200 yards.

Thanks.

Poor mount choice. The HOB will be ungodly.

Look for a shorter mount / 30mm ring

For the sake of saving ammo, I'd zero it at 50 yards, which should get you close to a 200 yard zero, and then rezero it at 200 yards.

Once it's zeroed for 200 yards, reshoot at 50 and 100 yards to find your POI.

As AeroE said, you really need to confirm what your rifle does at specific distances, and not just guess based on a chart.

If you want to shoot further, you can work on extrapolating the drop at other distances. You'll need to know the velocity and ballistic coefficient of your cartridge, but once you have that you should be able to find a ballistic drop chart that closely matches your POI, which will give you a good starting point for longer distances. Again, this is no substitute for actually confirming your POI, but it should help you get close.

Hunting rifles, I zero ALL 2" high at 100 yds
This gives a 200 zero for practical purposes
At 300, a hold on the top of the animal's back gives a good vital zone hit.
From there, things diverge somewhat depending on the cartridge
I try to shoot game animals at 300 yds or closer.

Precision rifles are zeroed at 100 yds, so I can use the ballistic reticles in the scopes.
Loads are chronographed and impact points checked to make sure the reticle is true.

This.

But I start the zeroing process with the longest anticipated engagement-range first.

For my 7.62s, that's 300-yds, where the target berm has been lasered, so I know it's exactly that distance. Once I've got it dailed in for 300yds, I go back to 50-yds, and start vetting POI from there, then 100-yds, then 200-yds.

With a 7.62 and a 300-yd zero, you shouldn't need to adjust the optic at all for shorter ranges, and you really shouldn't need much hold over either from 50- to 300-yds, as 7.62 M80 ball ammo shoots pretty flat out to 300-yds.

But don't just 'assume' anything about POI at a given range WITHOUT vetting it by live fire with the ammo you'll actually be shooting in THAT rifle.

Most of what you’re worrying about is academic. You won’t notice it at the range, or in any practical shooting. Zero at 50 and call it a day.

45 yards s very close to 200

realize the BC of the 556 and 762 are close enough that w/n 400 yards they do about the same thing

I wasn't trying to follow a chart. Just looking for a place to start. I always shoot real world distances after to confirm mi POI.

Such as with 5.56, a 50 m zero will generally put you on a human target at 200m. With a couple inches over and under in between.

Don't want to be my friend who zeroed a rifle at 15 yards and was flustered he wasn't hitting at 200 yards.

I was wrong about my mount. It is an LT152.

I guess I'll go with 50 yards.

I have several .308's of various type and all have a 200yd zero.   When obtaining zeros by starting at 50yds, they all shoot low at 200.
For me it doesn't work like .223 50/200 at all.   I have learned to try for groups 2" to 3" high at 50yds to get me on paper at 200.