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Posted: 7/1/2018 8:08:06 PM EDT
What would it take to make a 30 caliber rifle can around the 7.5” range, preferably about 16-20 oz or so and uses a keymo muzzle device? If not keymo I’d like other qd, probably yhm.

It would see use on 10.5”, 11.5”, and 16” 5.56 AR, and 20” 6.5 creedmoor.

Sorry haven’t had time to look at all the links hat have been posted.  I’m just hoping y’all will point me in the right direction.  I don’t want to mess with trial and error, id like to basically just follow a recipe and end up with a good, durable rifle can.

Cost isn’t a big concern
Link Posted: 7/1/2018 9:33:14 PM EDT
[#1]
Quoted:
What would it take to make a 30 caliber rifle can around the 7.5” range, preferably about 16-20 oz or so and uses a keymo muzzle device? If not keymo I’d like other qd, probably yhm.

It would see use on 10.5”, 11.5”, and 16” 5.56 AR, and 20” 6.5 creedmoor.

Sorry haven’t had time to look at all the links hat have been posted.  I’m just hoping y’all will point me in the right direction.  I don’t want to mess with trial and error, id like to basically just follow a recipe and end up with a good, durable rifle can.

Cost isn’t a big concern
View Quote
I think I can help you out. Contact me at [email protected]
Link Posted: 7/2/2018 10:11:30 AM EDT
[#2]
Rusty will help you build an awesome can, and if you have him do any work or supply any parts he will stand behind them 100%!

I don't know about the mounting system you mentioned, but I have built several cans, I used the yankee hill mount for two of them and it works great. I used the Griffin mount on one and it works really well too. Since you mentioned the 6.5 Creedmoor I would use the Griffin taper mount set up, it seems like it would be more precise then the yankee hill.

You can get everything you need from devesified machine. Rusty makes his RCS baffles and might be offering tubes now too.

James
Link Posted: 7/4/2018 10:27:49 AM EDT
[#3]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Rusty will help you build an awesome can, and if you have him do any work or supply any parts he will stand behind them 100%!

I don't know about the mounting system you mentioned, but I have built several cans, I used the yankee hill mount for two of them and it works great. I used the Griffin mount on one and it works really well too. Since you mentioned the 6.5 Creedmoor I would use the Griffin taper mount set up, it seems like it would be more precise then the yankee hill.

You can get everything you need from devesified machine. Rusty makes his RCS baffles and might be offering tubes now too.

James
View Quote
Thanks for the feedback. I do make my all my tubes now and custom thread adapters. I use SPC for end caps since they do have the edge in performance.

I have been making tubes for years but started offering tubes because I found I was doing more tube repairs on 20 tpi tubes. The long undercuts at the lead in and at the base of threads along with the excessive length of the threads makes for a weaker tube. I do not have the long undercuts or excessive threads on my tubes which make for a stronger tube. I use the same process on 24 tpi tubes and full profile threading inserts on both 20 and 24 tpi tubes.
Link Posted: 7/28/2018 9:22:19 AM EDT
[#4]
I can vouch for Rusty. He did a 6.5” can for me last year that is equal to or slightly quieter than my Griffin Armament Alpha.

Also, stick with GA qd muzzle devices. They are simple, repeatable, and compatible with most F1 adapters out there.
Link Posted: 7/28/2018 1:36:10 PM EDT
[#5]
DM ASR tube
Plan B from Q with cherry bomb
60 degree cones in titanium with 17-4ph stainless steel blast baffle (can order from DM also, just send a message with the tube order telling him how many you want and what spacer lengths you want when you find a recipe on the blow forum)
Your choice of end cap

All you’ll need to do is bore the cones and end cap and do whatever baffle clips you choose (many to choose from and vary in difficulty).

https://diversifiedmachine.us
Recipes
http://form1suppressor.boards.net

They’re fun to make. Take the time and enjoy making one on your own and marvel in your creation.
Link Posted: 7/29/2018 2:39:21 PM EDT
[#6]
Quoted:
What would it take to make a 30 caliber rifle can around the 7.5” range, preferably about 16-20 oz or so and uses a keymo muzzle device? If not keymo I’d like other qd, probably yhm.

It would see use on 10.5”, 11.5”, and 16” 5.56 AR, and 20” 6.5 creedmoor.

Sorry haven’t had time to look at all the links hat have been posted.  I’m just hoping y’all will point me in the right direction.  I don’t want to mess with trial and error, id like to basically just follow a recipe and end up with a good, durable rifle can.

Cost isn’t a big concern
View Quote
I suggest using a 1.625 x 1.5 × 7.8" tube from RustysCans. 3 RSC SS heat treated to H900, 4 RSC grade 5 TI spaced for performance.. The RSC when clipped with the DHC will outperform 60° cones and radials on all calibers. You will need the 3 ss cones for the 556 sbr. And the larger tube for the 6.5 cm. He will make you an asr adapter to use on the tube to fit the keymo or sico asr module so you can use your current brakes.

I just finished a build exactly like this that weighed 15.7 ounces. You can purchase all the solvent trap components from RustysCans or have him build it.
Link Posted: 7/29/2018 10:52:07 PM EDT
[#7]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:

I suggest using a 1.625 x 1.5 × 7.8" tube from RustysCans. 3 RSC SS heat treated to H900, 4 RSC grade 5 TI spaced for performance.. The RSC when clipped with the DHC will outperform 60° cones and radials on all calibers. You will need the 3 ss cones for the 556 sbr. And the larger tube for the 6.5 cm. He will make you an asr adapter to use on the tube to fit the keymo or sico asr module so you can use your current brakes.

I just finished a build exactly like this that weighed 15.7 ounces. You can purchase all the solvent trap components from RustysCans or have him build it.
View Quote
Having to talk in third person to act like you're not advertising?
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