If you have reloading equipment, but want to skip the brass-forming step, I got 500 pieces of already-formed, and primed brass for 21.6 cents per case from this website:

https://www.brassmonkeycc.com/product-page/300-aac-blk-10k-pcs

Trimming, forming, chamfering, annealing, and priming is probably all great fun if you have the time and motivation.

I was concerned that the product received would be questionable somehow - such as too-thick necks. Everything looks really good. Necks are 0.008" thickness - which is same as the necks on Winchester white box 300BO.

I ordered a second bag of 500 after receiving the first bag this week.

Range-testing it Wednesday.

Quick range report for the Brassmonkeyz Lake City 300 Blackout brass.
Remember this is 5.56 brass that has been cut down and sized for 300 Blackout.
Headstamps were 17 and 18.

I fired about 50 pieces today.
No problems with the brass whatsoever.

There has been discussion about use of H-110 powder, and the pressures that can happen when it gets near a MAXIMUM load.
I think I gave that a pretty good test today.
I was trying to come up with a good load using H-110 and the common "M80" 150-grain FMJ bullet.

I ran several of those bullets with 17.0 grains H-110 -- which is expectedly fairly warm load according to Quickload.
I think its actually a good bit hotter than Quickload predicts.
My gun is an 8" barrel wearing a 9" suppressor.
Quickload says this load in an 8" gun should deliver around 1722 fps at a pressure of 53,664

I got an average velocity of 1899 fps, and some pretty healthy marks on the brass.
Biggest mark was from the ejector hole - causing a significant burr on the spent case.
Apologies for the weird coloration of the pic. I had to tweak a lot of the settings on the iphone pic to get the marks to show up. Remember the gun was running a suppressor, so the cases are really filthy. Until I adjusted the color/contrast the main thing that jumped out at the viewer was the DIRTINESS of the cases.
There is a fair bite too from the extractor, but not anything that would have given me heartburn if that were the only mark.
The ejector-hole mark is exessive. I intend to back this load down one full grain, and see if the issue with the ejector-hole mark resolves.

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I should mention that I fired the same M80-bullet/17.0-H110-charge in WINCHESTER cases, and I got no burr or mark worthy of photographing.

I weighed the H20 capacity of the Lake City and the Winchester (and Starline for that matter).
Each comes out to somewhere in the neighborhood of 23.5 to 23.9 grains H20.
I suck at measuring H20 in cases, so I make no representations of the consistency or quality of my water weighing.

I did notice that the 17.0 grains H-110 did cause the extractor to put a visible bend in the rim of the case.
I can never get the bent rims to show up properly in an iphone pic.
All I've got for you is this pic that sort of shows the "chomp" that the extractor put into the rim.

The bend is something to be concerned about.
It is more visible TO THE EYE when viewed from the headstamp side of the case - but that won't show up for me in a pic.
I don't think this pic really shows it sufficiently, but here it is anyway.

Attached File

So, long story short, H-110 will tell you when you are using too much of it.

17.0 grains with a 150-grain bullet is too much in my gun.

I've never reloaded, but have been doing a lot of studying while I am overseas.

I've watched this video a few times and thought I would share, I speed the playback up to 1.25x as its slow.





I saw you share this a week or so ago and ordered 500. Couldn't pass it up as primers are unobtainable and its ready to go. The only thing I am missing is a tumbler and media at the moment. I managed to scoop everything else up so these 500 cases will get me started nicely.

Thanks for sharing.

Right on Blackout Bro!

I've been working on a SUB-SONIC load for the M80 bullet.

I really like the CFE/BLK powder for 200-grain subsonics. Truly the ideal powder for the 200-grain bullets because of loading density.

Anyhow, I decided to pull a load out of my ass (with the help of Quickload) to try to come up with a "plinking" load for the M80 bullets.
I shot several rounds of my made-up load yesterday over the chronograph.
Loading density is less than ideal (~76%). But everything functioned just fine in the 8" Palmetto upper.
Velocity was lower than I had hoped, but I didn't miss it by too much. I'd prefer velocity to be around 1050 fps.
I did not shoot for accuracy. I can only vouch that the load shoots minute-of-not-hitting-the-chronograph.
I think I'll try 14.0 grains next time.
And its no big deal if a few rounds in a lot go supersonic. Main reason for this load is to just have a (mostly) subsonic plinking load using a less-expensive, and (formerly) widely-available bullet.
The bona-fide subsonic loads out of this gun are still "noisy," even though they aren't loud. All the clatter of the bolt operating is pretty significant compared to a bolt gun or such.

Anyhow, here's the Quickload screenshot, and the load data I used, and the record/average of yesterday's chronograph work.

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Lehigh Defense has 194-grain subsonic projos in stock

https://www.lehighdefense.com/all/308-maximum-expansion-194gr-subsonic-bullet

Not inexpensive.

@W_E_G
In the future please post this kind of info in the tacked "where to find" thread at the top of the page. dryflash3

So I've been slowing preparing to load 300 Blackout for the first time. I will be using some balm 200 grain bullets from Midway. Using the .250 ogive method, but I'm thinking it will be too short. They are at 2.04 OAL. Never loaded something like this before. I've loaded some photos of how it looks. The small scratch on the bullet shows where it measures .250.




Also I have N110, CFEBLK, and Lil Gun. Which should I try to work up load with first for subs.

For subs I use lil gun, but I'm loading up 245s and not 200s.  I'd bet it would work fine, though.  As far as bullet length goes, I've loaded as short as 2.032 with some 150s before and they fed ok after I opened to the feed ramps a touch with a Dremel.  Their profile was a bit less pointy than those, however, so yours might load fine without the need to mess with the ramps

Thanks, I corrected it. Loaded only four rounds today with different charge weights to test for function. I noticed load data says a max of 8.2 of Lil Gun but people load up to 8.5 grains. I loaded one each at 7.4, 7.7, 8, and 8.2 to try out.

I can not find anything specific for loading 200 grain ELD-X for 300 blackout. Looking for a SUBSONIC load really using A1680 and CFEblk. Any info you kind gents would be great. I will be shooting out of ar platform with 8" barrel.  Thanks for the help.

See

https://www.falfiles.com/threads/range-report-300-blk-and-308-subs-and-supers.452059/

And see

https://www.falfiles.com/threads/300-blackout-i-took-the-day-off-from-pre-death-confinement-for-“exercise”-today.451803/

I purchased some Gallant powder coated 240 gr bullets last year. Can anyone point me to a starting point for these. Traditionally I have used A1680 for my subs. Shooting an 8" barrel with a can.

TIA

Anyone have any data for CFE BLK with Hornady 150gr FMJ for plinking rounds

Went off the 150gr Hornady IB round info but want to double check

100% full case (17.3 grains) will give you about 1360 FPS and around 34,000 PSI pressure.

The best use for CFE-BLK in 300BLK is for subsonics, but it will certainly work with the load I mentioned.

From my 8-inch barrel gun, I get 1000-1050 fps with 12.3 grains and the 145-150 grain bullets.

Wow.

So the IB info is waaaay off then....

Looking at the Barnes 150gr FMJ at 18.8gr is 1800fps with the same powder

Guess I need to take down those bullets....

Where you getting those numbers?

Something published somewhere ore your actual testing?

Lots of manufacturers published velocity numbers use a longer barrel than my 8-incher.

So no problem cycling the 150 running them as subs?  I run 8.5" so it certainly should be close.

The 150's run 100% as subs in my 8.5" Palmetto upper. Standard (3.0 ounce) carbine buffer and standard carbine buffer-spring.
Built on this "kit" https://palmettostatearmory.com/psa-8-5-pistol-length-300aac-blackout-1-8-phosphate-7-lightweight-m-lok-classic-shockwave-pistol-kit-5165449142.html

That Palmetto upper is amazing as far as what it will run. With or without a suppressor. Its fucking loud and bright with supers and no suppressor.
I've shot at least a dozen loads, running the gamut of powders and bullet-weights, in it. The ONLY load that didn't cycle in it was TRAIL BOSS. The gun is literally BB-Gun quiet with a full case of Trail Boss, but only gets the 150's out at around 900-950 fps.

I have a good supply of the surplus 145-150 bullets, so I played around with them to see what would work. Everything worked.
H-110, both of the IMR pistol powders, AA1680, CFE-BLK. And Trail Boss as noted.
I may load a few with medium-burning rifle powder just to see what happens. Something like VARGET or TAC.
Quickload says a full case of VARGET should make 1100 FPS with the 150-grain. I bet it cycles the gun - and big muzzle flash, because Quckload predicts ony 50% burn out of the 8.5" barrel. Probably want to be careful with those sorts of loads if you are using a suppressor. Might fill up the suppressor with unburnt powder - until the accumulation DOES burn, and does bad shit to your suppressor.

The 150's aren't the "best" bullet for 300BLK, but they sure as hell cycle the gun and kill shit. Go for lung shots if you're shooting deer with FMJ's. Absolutely NOTHING goes far with a through-and-through hole in the lung. Something about ability-to-breathe as being necessary for living. Collapsed lung is not helpful in that regard. Even just an entry with a BB-gun (city deer) makes 'em DRT with lung shots. They don't even act like they've been shot until they just pass out and fall over.

I can't promise you a subsonic bullet won't bounce off the skull of a deer. I've seen FMJ 9mm bullets at hello-front-door distance bounce off the skull of humans (actually enter the skin in the front, and exit the skin in the back - without penetrating bone - two band-aids for treatement - I shit you not). So, there's that. Go for the lung shot.

Good info...and we're running almost identical BO's.

I’ve got a bunch of PRVI 174gr FMJ’s that I’m going to try with 300blk for subs.  Sierra lists Reloder-7 as a capable Subsonic powder with their 175’s and has load data printed.  Anybody try it?

ETA - the Sierra data is 11.2gr of RL-7 for 1050fps from a 16" barrel with a 175gr HPBT or TMK.  11.4gr of H4198 or 11.3gr of IMR 4198 are also listed for subs with the 175's.  I'll be using a 9" AAC and a 8" Seekins, both 1/7 twist with cans.

I dialed in a load for 147 grn subs.  I set the oal at 2.050. This seats the bullet with the cannelure at the case neck.  I tried the 13.3 grns of CFE black.  It was 1160 fps.  I dialed it all the way back to 10.8 grns.  Bolt would not lock back at 10.6.  Im getting 800 fps with 10.8.  Its quiet and shoots to point of aim.

Darn it.  This thread is going to make my try 147 subs.  My LGS has some CFE black still on the shelf......

BUY!... BUY!!!

Please leave the memes and such in GD. dryflash3

Haven't reloaded in years but with the ammo situation, I'm going to start up again.

Would be loading for a 5.5" Sig Rattler and a 8.3" Noveske.

Used to reload 9mm, 380, 45acp, 45 super, and did some 5.56.

Years ago I intended to start loading 300blk and bought the dies, primers, 2000 pieces of converted brass, and 8lbs of IMR4227 (what I found at the time). Someone had a killer deal on Hornady 178gr HPBT bullets so I picked up an 800 count box. Wasn't sure what I was going to do with them, 300blk or 308, but I remember the price being such that I just bought them.

Here's my questions,

1. How do those experienced reloaders feel about loading some subs with the 178gr bullets using IMR4227? Can I work something up with the above listed components that will be decent in the barrel lengths listed or should I save the 178gr for some future 308?

2. What are some decent bullets for supers? Don't need anything special. I don't hunt and the ammo would just be for range use, etc. Don't want garbage but don't need anything too expensive or fancy.  Not sure where to start here.

Thanks.

The Hornady manual doesn't show a sub load with the bullet you have. I'm sure it's doable, just not with the Hornady manual.

For super sonic plinking loads on the cheap, I like the 147 grain bulk bullets sold by Wideners.

I think the 125gr TNT is your best bet for cheap supers

For cheap supers I load 147gr M80s when I can find them but just bought 125gr TNTs from Midway for under .20 each which seems like a deal these days.

178's will work fine as subsonics with IMR4227. Try 10.0 grains loaded to 2.260" OAL.
If you are running pistol-length barrel should give you 1000 - 1100 fps.

For supers at the target-range, any bullet will work. I shoot the cheap (they were cheap when I bought a lifetime supply) 147-grain FMJ bullets.
The 147 with IMR4227 can take a full case (about 17.8 grains) and should give you around 1650 FPS from your pistol-length barrels.

Bullets with a boat-tail are easier to load than anything with a flat-base.

I don't know what you mean by "garbage." If you want to shoot match grade bullets from a pistol-length 300BLK, by all means have at it.
In my opinion, the only cadillac bullets worth shooting from the 300BLK are the bonded bullets that expand dramatically, and without coming apart, at 300 BLK velocities; or the subsonic bullets that expand completely at subsonic velocities.
That said, anything shot through the lung with any bullet whatsoever, falls down and dies as soon as the lung collapses. That's just basic biology.

This is why you should have chest seals in your ifak.

Thanks for the replies everyone!

Now I just have to find some 147gr or some of the 120gr TNT bullets in stock.

Going to dig my press out of storage this weekend, go thru all my supplies, and get it ready to go. May look into some upgrades for it as well. I'm sure some new stuff came out since last time I reloaded anything.

Is there a current consensus on the best Dillon 550 tool head for the trimmer? I need to order
one and the GSI tool head is the one I have book marked.

I bought the Whidden Gunworks version.
It’s very nice.

ETA: I have the 650 version.

I use the Harbor Freight chop saw with the jig attached.  I just replaced the blade on it, but I'm still seeing an issue I'd hoped a new blade would fix.

At the end of the cut, the cartridge kind of "bends" and ends up leaving a not-square end to the cut.  I have tried to cut slower to avoid this, but no difference.  Does anyone else run into this?  Is the blade not sharp enough?  RPMs too low?  How do I keep this from happening?


thanks!

MG

Have a question that was probably answered some where in the thousands of posts in this thread, but I see you bump the bullet out to the middle of “posts” in 5.56 mags (.250” (?)).

Does that also hold true for .300 blk mags as well? Is it more of a feeding or chambering issue?

110 grain vmax, varmageddon, tac tx.
Also 150 or 155 grain hornady fmj
All supers

How many bell their cases a little for the flat base bullets? Standard? Or only if issues?
Thanks

I have the same setup and it will not make a perfect cut. I just chamfer it inside and out, run through the sizing die then use my case trimmer to square it up and get the length right.

ETA: it makes a better cut if you cut 3/4 of the way through then spin the case to get the last part.

Wow! Thank you for sharing that. I had no idea such a thing existed.

The Dillon short trim toolheads on the 550 are frankly... not good. The torque of the motor starting tends to loosen the die no matter what I do.

I was planning on drilling and tapping the toolhead for a set screw with a piece of lead shot to keep the die from moving, but ordering one of these seems a lot easier!

Good idea.  Thanks!


MG

I tried drilling and tapping a dillon short toolhead to lock the dies in place.

It did not work well. Still loosens up and I feel like I wasted my time.

That different tool head seems awesome! May have to pick one up.

After building a 6.5" 300 blackout pistol 3 years ago, I'm finally getting around to reloading for it.

I'm gathering, from what little I've read of this thread, that Lil' Gun is a pretty good powder for a bullet like a 110 gr Vmax or GMX. Forgive me if this has been beaten to death, but would it also be good for subsonics with a 190 gr bullet? What about trail boss?

CFE black looks pretty interesting too. Going to try using this for hunting, but I am a little apprehensive about it.

Hey all,

I'm wondering what everyone's go-to subsonic bullet choice is?  I've only loaded the 208gr Hornady A-Max and I am down to under 500 of those left.  I'm told these have been replaced by the 208gr ELD-M bullet but I've never seen any in stock.  Does the collective wisdom have any recommendations on a decent sub bullet for plinking and HD?

Use any bullet whatsoever for "plinking."

Use bullets that expand for hunting or defense.
The good ones are not cheap.

You get what you pay for.

A full case of trail boss (remember to subtract the area consumed by the ass-end of the bullet),... a full case of Trail Boss will be subsonic with any bullet 125 grains + you load.
Won't cycle an AR.

You can just make supersonic with full case of Trail Boss and bullets 110-grain and less.
I don't know whether that will cycle. I doubt it.

CFE-BLK cycles 200-grain subs in my 8.5" Palmetto upper.

Attached File

I purchased 3lbs of cfe blk on this 110g data.

(1) Obviously not all 110g are equal but shouldn’t it “work” with any 110g assuming I work it up and can stuff enough in there?

(2) Or should I just stuff some of my vmax in there and get something better (not any time soon) for the barnes 110 and or use it for the Hornady 150g?

(3) Using no41 primers if that would help it along in 8.3” bbl

(4) Attached File

I appreciate your reply but you really didn't give me any actionable advice here...

I found the A-Max's both reasonably priced yet with excellent performance.  I'd love something similar...