I recently went to the range with my Ruger 10/22 and experienced FTEject. The empty round would stove pipe, but the rifle still fed a new round into the chamber. This happened on a new BX-15, new BX-25, and a known reliable aftermarket mag (HC3R). I was shooting CCI Standard Velocity out of a factory Ruger Threaded barrel I installed recently (I lined up the extractor slot to the extractor and torque the barrel down to spec). The bolt already has a VQ extractor installed. These problems started to a raise once I started shooting surpressed (Dead Air Mask HD). The 5 10rd BX-1 mags I own work perfectly.

How can I solve my stove pipe issue? Bad mags? Bolt moving too fast? New ejector? New extractor/ extractor spring? This gun (except the barrel) probably has 10-15k rds through it.

A simple solution.

Well shit, that’s easy! Any other advice is still welcomed!

I tried this, did a few yard pops and still having stove pipe issues. Any other ideas?

I already have a VQ extractor in there, that being said it has 15k rounds on it probably. Should I just buy a new one?

I’ll continue to work on the ejector

The ejector in the first video is a secondary ejector that’s only there to eject loaded rounds from the chamber when the magazine is removed. The gun will operate just fine without it installed.
The primary ejector is a very small step on the lip of the magazine. Doing the adjustment to the tension of the magazine release as shown in the second video may help but it’s only half of the problem. The factory extractor hook does two things, it extracts unfired rounds from the chamber and provides a pivot point for a fired cartridge case after the case hits the ejector. The extractor doesn’t always hold the case in exactly the same position every time With the tolerances in factory parts being what they are. Replacing the factory extractor with an aftermarket one from Tactical Solutions or Volquartsen will fix the problem for good. Installing a Tuffer Buffer bolt stop while you have your gun apart wouldn’t be a bad idea either.

Edited to add:
I just read that you already have a VQ ejector installed. I like the ones from Tactical Solutions better. Changing to that may help. Bolt speed could also be an issue with standard velocity ammo. I’d clean the gun and inspect inside of the receiver to see how smooth it is. Another thing you can do is send your bolt to Randy at CPC. For $60 he’ll radius the rear of the bolt, adjust the headspace and pin the firing pin to limit it’s vertical movement. He’ll replace the extractor to but I think he charges a little extra for that. I’m not sure, check his website.CPC bolt work

I already have an aftermarket (VQ) extractor but I am willing to buy another one (the VQ has 15k rds on it). I also already have a Kidd Buffer installed!

I edited my post after your reply. I think the bolt work is what you need. See the link to CPC above.

Agreed and will do

Thanks and I’ll look into that!!!

How dirty is the barrel/action? You mentioned suppressed use, so blowback can be making it shoot dirtier than usual. Also, the chamber can get carbon buildup near the throat/leade. Most folks typically just use a boresnake or similar on 10/22s because of the way it’s designed, this will not always clean the chamber well.

What is the condition of the action/recoil spring? Bolt stop/buffer?

I use a bore snake to clean it, I’ll clean the chamber tonight really good, the recoil/ action spring is OEM original (looks to be in good condition), the bolt buffer is in good shape and is from Kidd. I also clean and lube the gun after every time I shoot

While you are in there, polish the guide rod too.

Also, I only use a dry lube on 10-22's since any type of oil turns to sludge and slows things down.

Swap in some old parts and try again.

Roger will do some digging on that

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A good chamber cleaner is a .243 brush bent to an L shape. Stick the front end of the brush and rotate it back and forth with the handle you made by bending it.
Another thing you can try.... Kidd sells a 10% lighter recoil spring for 8 bucks.

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