Nice Winchester '73!

I got the '66 in .38 WCF to be a bit different. I was already setup to load for it from when I had an 1892 in the caliber. My Cimarron Henry, 1873 and Uberti Bisley are in .44 WCF.

Let's try this again...

Picked up this old thing a while back...

Couple more shots:

I realize that the above isn't for everyone...

But, I've always liked the looks of old, used, but cared for lever guns.  I've thought about buying one many times over the years but every time I did, I'd decide against it since they're always in calibers that I don't have a use for.

But then, since I had revolvers in .45 Colt, a lever gun in that caliber made sense.  But, old, well used lever guns in .45 Colt aren't really a "thing" from what I see.

So, I ordered a Rossi '92 to at least have a lever gun in a pistol caliber.  Then, once I got it, I wasn't thrilled about the look.  Don't get me wrong, it's a nice enough gun.  I'm not knocking it.  It just didn't look "interesting" to me.  So, I said to myself, "Myself, the worst thing that'll happen is you'll fuck it up..."  So, I started looking at vintage lever guns online and at gun shows and concocting a plan.  The above is the end result.

As I said, it's not to everyone's taste.  But, I'm very happy with the outcome.

Here it was as it came out of the box:

I like what you did there. Might have to distress my Rossi now.

I kept wondering why an old Winchester find would have an electro penned serial number, and wondered how worn down it would have to be to necessitate such an action.

Then I saw the bolt safety and your subsequent post.

I like what you did. It looks waaaaay cooler and full of character. It reminds me of a friend's early 20th century 1894 in 38-55. You captured that look! Nice!

Thanks!  I really like it.  One of the nice thing is that .38-40 ammo/brass should be one of the last things to go away in a panic.

Thanks, it was a fun project.




While I didn’t set out to “fool anyone”, it’s gratifying to know that the end result gives the visual impression that I was shooting for to someone other than myself.  There a few clues that easily give it away…  The serial number and safety as you noted, and also the shape of the Rossi’s receiver is different from the Winchester, just to name a few.  But, I was going for the overall look, and with that I’m pleased with the way it turned out.




Thanks!  Giving it a bit more character was my goal.  It was an enjoyable little project.  Now, I’m on the lookout for a .357/.38 version with which to do something similar.  Gotta find something to do with all this “social isolation” time…  

@Imaposer2

That looks great!

What is your tips on doing the distressing?

Thanks.

I'll try to explain the basics steps I used....

First, I looked around online and at gun shows for examples of actual old guns of this type, to get an idea of where normal wear occurred and for how I wanted mine to look.  Then, I removed the wood and used a gray synthetic abrasive pad, judiciously, on the metal parts to create the wear in the areas that seemed right to me.  At this point, the "distressing" was done.  Or at least to the point of removing areas of the original finish.  I then detail stripped the rifle in order to remove all screws, bolt, lever, etc., from the receiver.  To achieve the color change and brown "patina" that is usually seen on old guns, I used Laurel Mountain Barrel Brown.  For this step, I basically followed the instructions on their website.  To protect the bore, I swabbed it with a liberal coat of oil, then degreased the exterior of all parts with denatured alcohol.  In order to accelerate the flash rust process, I ran my shower on hot, and used a small portable heater to get my bathroom hot and humid.  After applying the solution according to the instructions, I hung all metal parts in my bathroom and waited a few hours.  I did much the same with all of the screw heads and placed them in a small magnetic tray in the bathroom.  After a few rusting/carding cycles, I began to use either the gray pad again, or in some cases a light rubdown with 0000 steel wool.  I just continued this process until I had the look I desired on all of the parts.  Once I was satisfied, I thoroughly washed all metal parts with a concentrated solution of hot water and baking soda, a good rinse with hot water, followed by a good cleaning with Windex.  These last two steps neutralize the solution and arrest any further oxidation of the metal.  Once it was neutralized, I gave it a liberal coating of engine oil and let it sit for a few days while out of town for work.  That's the basics of my process at least.  The rest is just down to the "artistic" aspects of the individual's combination of these steps.

All of the above was done concurrently with refinishing the wood...

To accomplish this, I first chemically stripped the original finish off thoroughly, followed by washing well with warm water... let dry, then dewhisker... dampen again, let dry, and dewhisker again.  Repeat the dewhiskering step a few times to ensure the whiskers have all been raised and removed.  Once the wood was all dewhiskered and thoroughly dry, I set about the coloring process.  I used brown Fiebings leather dye diluted with denatured alcohol for the overall color.  Diluting it before applying allows much greater control of the coloring process because it allows you to apply many subsequent dye coats to “sneak up” on your color.  As you can see from the before photo, the wood doesn’t have a lot of natural figure.  To create a little more visual interest, I used a dilute solution of black Fiebings, with a fine artist brush to apply some “figure” before applying the overall brown color dye.  Since I was distressing the metal parts, I figured it wouldn’t look right for the wood to look perfect, so…  To simulate the “oil staining” often seen on old guns in areas of the wood that comes close to metal parts, I used a similar dyeing technique to darken these areas.  Although the photos don’t show it much, I also created some mild “handling marks” prior to doing any of the dying.  In these areas, I applied a little of the black solution to highlight them.  Once I was satisfied with the color, I used REAL Tung Oil from Real Milk Paint.  This is a time consuming process due to the long drying periods between applications.  And while you will get a hundred different opinions on wood finishes, this is the only one I use for wood used on guns.  In my opinion, the look and feel is superior to anything else and worth the extra time required. Once satisfied that the Tung oil was cured adequately, as a final protective coating, I applied a light coat of Renaissance Wax, followed by a light rub down with 0000 steel wool to reduce the gloss of the wax coat.

That’s my basic process.  Although, like most things, the devil is in the details…

It was a fun little project.  I learned from it, and will likely do another sooner or later

Wow.. that is some detailed work. Thanks for the write-up.

You certainly took a rifle built today and made it look a 130 years old.

Well done!

Thanks again!  That was my goal, so I'm glad others see the results that I was hoping to achieve.

And yeah, it was some detailed work, but not as bad, or time consuming as some of my other past gun projects, or as bad as my description probably makes it sound.  While it sounds like a lot, most of it doesn't really take all that much time.  For example, the "distressing" of the metal parts with the abrasive pad took just a few minutes as I watched TV.  The dye dries almost instantly, so the dyeing process for the wood went really quickly too.  Applying the browning solution was as simple as moistening a cotton pad lightly and quickly wiping it over the surfaces.  The "carding" was done with scraps of denim, cut from an old pair of jeans and wet with warm water.  You're really just knocking off the loose rust here so it's as fast as a quick vigorous rubdown, between reapplications of the solution.  And there's not a lot of surface area to deal with so it's quick.  Most of the time was just waiting, and that doesn't really take time since I'm doing something during those times anyway.  Waiting for the rust to form with each application, and waiting for each application of Tung Oil to cure were done over the same time period.  Under the right conditions, the browning could be done over the course of one full day, although I think I did it over a weekend because I wasn't in a huge hurry.  The Tung Oil is the slowest part, but then again, it's mainly just waiting for it to cure.  I think I had the gun apart for two full weeks, only working on it over the weekends because I was out of town during the week at that time.  And I think I waited one more week to allow for more applications of Tung OIl and for it to cure fully, although I probably could have gotten by with less.

Of course, this was the first time I've done this sort of thing, so if I do end up with a .357 version, and do the same, it'll go much easier and quicker.  Other than the Tung Oil curing time, I could easily do the entire thing over the course of one weekend.  And even still, most of that time would be waiting for rust to form.  Of course, I'm one of those guys that enjoys little hobby related projects like this, so it wasn't like it was "work" or anything....  

And a little tip for working with REAL Tung Oil...  Notice I keep saying "REAL" Tung Oil?  This is to differentiate it from commercial products that say things like "Tung Oil finish" and the like.  They aren't the real deal, and likely don't contain much if any of the real thing.  Those types of products are actually just a rubbing varnish, which while aren't necessarily a bad product for some applications, aren't in the same league as Tung Oil for a gun finish, IMO.  REAL Tung Oil is a natural drying oil made from the nut of the Tung tree.  The real McCoy can be purchased from Real Milk Paint, and I'm sure other places.  But, I know I can trust the oil they sell, so that's who I recommend.  One bottle will do MANY stocks so it's really cost effective as well.  It's similar to Boiled Linseed oil in the way it cures through a polymerization reaction with the oxygen in air, although it does have advantages over BLO.  I won't go into it all here, but as I said before, it's the only finish I use on wood for guns that I care about how they look and feel.  TO is NOT a building finish.  It is IN the wood, not on it.  This tends to give wood a natural rich glow and feel that other products won't duplicate.  Anyway, my point was, because it is a drying oil, the same caution has to be observed as with BLO in regard to spontaneous combustion of rags used with it.    TO is applied by hand, by just rubbing a light coat on the wood with a finger or two.  Let it soak in for about an hour, then wipe off with a soft cotton cloth.  Let cure overnight and repeat.  Once you're satisfied with the applications, it'll take several days to a couple of weeks to cure.  This is where the TIP comes in...  Because TO is a drying oil, you can radically speed the curing process with VERY small amounts of Japan Drier.  I pour maybe 1/4 - 1/2 tsp in a small mixing container at a time, then add a FEW DROPS of Japan drier and mix it well.  This is for each application as you discard each small batch after it's used once.  I've learned about how much I need so waste very little.  It takes very little for each application.  I don't do the Japan drier trick for the first few applications as I prefer to mix the TO 50/50 with mineral spirits to thin it and allow good penetration into the wood.  But after the first few applications, I switch to my quick cure concoction to speed things along.  You read it here FIRST!  Haha.  I've been researching and refinishing wood for guns for quite a few years, and I've never read of anyone using Japan drier with TO before.  I'm sure others have done similar but I'd never read of doing it before trying it myself.   And, it works!

And to those that may be tempted to try something similar, I say go for it.  I mean, after all, the worst thing that'll happen is you'll fuck it up...

Damn I love that Rossi up above ^

Finally picked up a lever rifle. I haven’t been this excited about a gun purchase in a while.

Uberti 1873, 45 Colt

That shore is a purdy rilfe!  

Winchester Ranger 100 year model. Burris 2-7 Scout Scope.

Totally agree!  That's why I got one just like it!  Everyone should have one.

There are times I find myself carrying it around the house and outside. Sometimes I just sit on the front porch with it in my lap and rock back and forth

My GBL w/ Holosun 510C-GR

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Installed a Williams FP-94/36 on my Rossi 92 last night.

that is very nice!

New Leather for the big dog

@CaptShiess How's the 336 Dark with the Sandman S? Once I can find one in stock I'm planning on running that exact setup.

Honestly I haven’t been out to shoot it yet.  I’ll be going this coming weekend, but I expect it to be amazing!

Some 45-70 dark love!

Curious to see how it does. I can't find the 336 in stock anywhere man lol.

I found one at a local gun store for $759.  Such a good price I had to jump on it!  They had a few at the time.

Finished up the Henry X in 44mag.  Dead air ghost and vortex venom as additions.

Brand new. Haven’t even shot it yet.

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My latest acquisition, a Marlin 1894 CSBL .357

Really nice! I would like to possibly add one in either 357 or 44. I have the CST, so perhaps the 44. Either way, they're nice rifles. I hope you enjoy your new lever!

The balance on this one is fantastic due to the shorter, round barrel (as compared to the 18-20" models they make, and the heavy octagon models Henry produces).  The center of gravity is roughly at the front of the receiver/between my hands, so it's easy tracking, light weight, compact, and handy.

Updated pic.  Sold the rossi and added the Henry X in 44mag and Marlin SBL in 44mag.  Lever guns are a disease with the only cure being more lever guns!

Jeezus!  amazing collection.

A couple of parts got bolted on today.

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Just finished up the 44mag sbl.  Just waiting for my hybrid for the 1895.  Love these rifles!

My new Uberti 1873, with the '73 Cattleman.

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Most excellent.  If I ever get a full length lever gun, a '73 just seems right for it.

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