You got it. I thought about it for months..which was months wasted that could of been part of my jail time...

Figure out what hosts you are gonna use and get to shopping..

Thanks guys!

My poor bank account...

--- moved

What to do when you move to a new residence (within the same state)

Before I start a new thread, thought I would ask here. I have been out of the suppressor buying game for awhile. The last can I bought was just before that 41F nonsense happened. I am now toying around with the idea of getting another one. I do have a trust, but the wife and friend on it probably wont want to get printed so I will probably just go individual for the next one since you no longer need CLEO signoff which is why I went the trust route initially. My question is in regards to the SS kiosk. If I go to a LGS in my area that has one and do everything there, does that mean I can only get one from SS? I ask because I watch the deals thread here and I see the guy from Hansohn Brothers always posting deals. If I buy a can from him and have it transferred to my dealer, can it go through the SS kiosk? How does buying a can from someone other than SS work with the kiosk? I only ask because it seems that the kiosk is the easiest way to submit prints. My local FFL who I usually go though does NFA transfers, but he says I am on my own for doing the printing, so that is of no help. There is another LGS by me that has the SS kiosk and would most likely transfer the can through them because I used them last time. I know I will probably have to pay whatever their transfer fee is where buying from SS direct all the fees are included from what I remember. Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Mav

Once your info is in Silencer Shop, the dealer would just add the silencer from Hansohn or whoever to his inventory in SS and then SS will email you about buying a tax stamp and digitally signing the form.

I believe the dealer can charge up to $40 to use the kiosk if the silencer is not through SS/local stock but that should be a one time deal, since your info will be in the system after that.  There should be no charge if you buy from SS first and get in their system.

Also be aware of NFA transfer fees.  The dealers in my area charge $75 so take that into consideration with online deals.  However, SS also charges tax.

Thanks for your help.
I plan on buying one from first from SS directly as they have a promotion on some of them for $100 gift certs, then go to my LGS after online purchase and complete the kiosk stuff-that would put me in their system. By doing this I would avoid whatever fee the LGS normally charges to use their SS kiosk. Then if I buy another suppressor from someone else after that I am just looking at whatever the LGS charges for NFA transfer fees. Am I missing anything?

No problem. You're not missing anything at least from my experience. When I got setup with SS my dealer took my photo and associated it with my account.  After that I use the website to update my own photo (has to be updated every year I think).

Also for your first order, wait until SS sends you a code for the kiosk. It should be a QR code or something you type in, and have that available for the kiosk.

Excellent-thanks for confirming. I'll keep an eye out for that QR code email after I do so before I go into do the kiosk stuff. Thanks!

I see that filing as an individual has less wait time. I don't have a need for a trust as no one will be using it but me. How does that work then. Do I just buy it and the tax stamp from SS and then use the kiosk at the dealer?

Really?  I was just going off the SS page where it shows the wait times. This will be my first suppressor. I just want to go whatever is the fastest route. I am just learning as I go.

Just to be clear -

I can buy a .30 cal can and it be perfectly safe to use on a .223/5.56 gun.  Just don't use it on .22cal rimfire.

For the most part yeah.  There are a few 30 cals that are meant for 300 Blackout only but that's rare.

Also - I don't necessarily want a user serviceable can do I?

There are not a lot of rifle rated and user serviceable silencers out there.  They are heavier for sure, some manufacturers have said all welded is stronger too.

But serviceable or not, rifle cans do get gunk build up, they are not "self cleaning."  I wouldn't worry about it too much.  Maybe soak it in something safe for the materials every few thousand rounds.

I came in this thread looking for the material types used in silencers and the pros/cons of each.

This is my understanding but I could be totally off, looking for conformation:

Steel:  Usually less expensive and really durable / pretty heavy (and might rust?)

Stainless Steel: More costly that plain steel but easier to clean otherwise similar to steel except the rust part if that happens

Titanium:  Light weight for size decent durability / Cost is an issue and durability is more how you treat it, mag dumps not recommended as it can have heat stress but under normal conditions will last a long time

Aluminum: I think I have only seen these on rimfire cartridges, I would say durability could be a real issue on how you use it

I will go back and look but didn't see how to clean each can in the OP, saw it asked in this thread.  Not sure if each material type has a better cleaning method or stuff not to do.

ive only been in the NFA game a few years, but i dont recall ever seeing a regular ole steel can. i dont think any big name (or up and comers) are making any regular steel cans. theres much better materials out there.

aluminum can be found on pistol cans as well. for example: the mod9s have a SS blast baffle and the rest are aluminum.

generally speaking, the harder/more durable the material, the more freedom you have to clean the baffles. for example, aluminum youre basically locked into soda blasting. you cant use the dip or ultasonic to clean your aluminum baffles.

Like my two Banish 45 models.  I've got one setup on a glock 19 and one set up on a Glock 21.  A few questions.  I know that some gas and "soot" coming back at you/in your face is expected. How can one reduce that? I've also notice that they become loose, backing out of both the muzzle screw part as well as the individual segements, and you've got to hand tighten again after a mag or two. Anyway to keep them tight without doing anyting permanent or destructive?

I agree with this, but a lot of people, think your average deer hunter that shoots maybe a box of ammo a year, would be very happy with a cheap suppressor that only lasts for 1,000 rounds.  That would be a lifetime for them.   I lived overseas for six years, at the time suppressors were an over the counter purchase.  I only had  .22 rifle, a suppressor for it was the equivalent of $25 USD.  It was a simple steel tube with baffles that were nothing more than a freeze plug with a hole drilled in them, not even clipped baffles or cone shaped.   But it worked just fine on a bolt action .22 rifle.

I guess my point is, I agree with you, get rid of the NFA and the average can will be garbage compared to what we have now.   But, there will be a lot of those garbage cans out there, and still those willing to pay for quality.