aluma hyde experience? - Page 2

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Posted: 5/7/2010 6:49:54 PM EDT

[#1]

ok cured about 4 days now...sprayed some clear coat on this evening...no barrel inserted just the slide on the frame was black now stainless steel paint

Posted: 5/19/2010 9:29:45 AM EDT

[#2]

Followed the OP's cue and did this upper, lower and MI rail in Brownell's Coyote, followed by a Krylon clear flat. Here they are with some Magpul FDE parts and a VLTOR Modstock.

I painted the upper and lower together by duct-taping a coat hanger to a cardboard box and running it up through the grip screw..

Painted the MI rail by mounting it on a paper towel tube which was held by a coat hanger duct-taped to a box

Posted: 5/19/2010 4:03:49 PM EDT

[#3]

looks good man...i like it

Posted: 5/20/2010 2:58:19 AM EDT

[#4]

Will you guys stop posting this stuff ... you keep giving me more ideas and I already have to many projects going

guess I'm going to have to start a support group for all us alumahydeaholics

by the way ... that upper/lower really look good .. nice work

Posted: 5/22/2010 9:31:58 AM EDT

[#5]

beer inspired...the black and tan!!!

Posted: 5/22/2010 9:32:49 AM EDT

[#6]

These are just kind of pieced together after a week of drying/curing. I think it needs to cure a little longer. Fortunately all of the parts to complete it haven't arrived yet anyway, because I am not very patient

Posted: 5/23/2010 6:12:32 PM EDT

[#7]

i know your pain,,,dont touch, lol...

Posted: 5/30/2010 9:02:38 AM EDT

[#8]

Alumahyde Coyote brown applied to pistol grip, rail covers, fore grip, BUIS and stock. Not perfect but I'm pleased with the look. Very easy to apply.

http://i925.photobucket.com/albums/ad91/codavex/b6166020.jpg

Posted: 5/30/2010 9:05:47 AM EDT

[#9]

http://i925.photobucket.com/albums/ad91/codavex/96eaddd0.jpg

Posted: 5/30/2010 1:00:22 PM EDT

[#10]

did this for my Sabre rep on his gun

Posted: 6/4/2010 4:19:14 AM EDT

[#11]

Posted: 6/4/2010 5:37:05 AM EDT

[#12]

some new pics..

Posted: 6/10/2010 6:41:23 PM EDT

[#13]

RRA build done in Coyote Alumahyde II !

http://i437.photobucket.com/albums/qq96/HOTTCAMARO/AR15/AR15BUILD037.jpg

http://i437.photobucket.com/albums/qq96/HOTTCAMARO/AR15/AR15BUILD036.jpg

Posted: 6/15/2010 3:09:06 PM EDT

[#14]

Quoted:
http://i925.photobucket.com/albums/ad91/codavex/96eaddd0.jpg

your fakepoint needs to be rotated 90 degrees right

Posted: 6/17/2010 8:56:05 AM EDT

[#15]

You can accelerate curing of AH2 by using your oven. I bake my parts at 200* for 5 hours.

The smell isn't too bad, kinda like strong crayons, but don't do it when the wife is home. When you're done, run the oven at the highest setting for 1/2 hour to burn off any residual odors.

Posted: 6/17/2010 8:53:54 PM EDT

[#16]

Quoted:

Quoted:
http://i925.photobucket.com/albums/ad91/codavex/96eaddd0.jpg

your fakepoint needs to be rotated 90 degrees right

Thanks, but the fake point has been replaced by a Vortex SPARC,

Posted: 6/22/2010 11:49:58 PM EDT

[#17]

I have a Fulton Armory Titan upper on the way to me and I'm wanting to use Alumahyde II on it. Will there be any issues with the paint bonding to the upper? I think it has some kind of coating on it, not just anodizing. Did any of you guys do any prep work to the uppers that you painted?

Posted: 6/23/2010 5:38:44 PM EDT

[#18]

Quoted:
I have a Fulton Armory Titan upper on the way to me and I'm wanting to use Alumahyde II on it. Will there be any issues with the paint bonding to the upper? I think it has some kind of coating on it, not just anodizing. Did any of you guys do any prep work to the uppers that you painted?

I used a red scotchbrite pad on mine , then degreased with brake cleaner ! Didnt over do it with the pad , just a lil bit .

Posted: 6/24/2010 5:49:52 AM EDT

[#19]

Quoted:

Quoted:
I have a Fulton Armory Titan upper on the way to me and I'm wanting to use Alumahyde II on it. Will there be any issues with the paint bonding to the upper? I think it has some kind of coating on it, not just anodizing. Did any of you guys do any prep work to the uppers that you painted?

I used a red scotchbrite pad on mine , then degreased with brake cleaner ! Didnt over do it with the pad , just a lil bit .

Scotchbrite sounds like a good idea if you have a glossy surface that needs to be taken down. My lower and upper were both pretty flat - or non-glossy - so all I did was hit them with Gum-out carb cleaner as a de-greaser, then washed them with water and let them dry.

Posted: 7/6/2010 8:30:05 PM EDT

[#20]

Question for you guys with AHII experience. I painted my Noveske upper (SWS Rail Coyote, stainless barrell Matte Black). In a rush, I forgot to let it "fully" cure as instructed between coats. I re-coated after about 24 hours (instructions say if you wait more than 30 minutes let it fully cure before re-coating). It seems fine, but is there any potential problem from doing this?

ETA crappy pic (it's dark in my bar where it's curing):

Posted: 7/7/2010 5:28:06 AM EDT

[#21]

Quoted:
Question for you guys with AHII experience. I painted my Noveske upper (SWS Rail Coyote, stainless barrell Matte Black). In a rush, I forgot to let it "fully" cure as instructed between coats. I re-coated after about 24 hours (instructions say if you wait more than 30 minutes let it fully cure before re-coating). It seems fine, but is there any potential problem from doing this?

ETA crappy pic (it's dark in my bar where it's curing):

http://i46.tinypic.com/4r851v.jpg

The glossy colors seem to take much longer to cure/dry ... the flat black I used on some mags seemed to cure/dry really quick so I went ahead and put on the second coat several hours later and by the next day they were GTG ... but I still let them sit for about a week before reassembling them. I don't think you'll have any problems as long as you didn't mare the finish while handling it ... I would let it cure real good (like a week) before shooting it.

Posted: 7/7/2010 6:58:50 AM EDT

[#22]

Thanks Gatorhunt. I didn't mar the finish when I put the rail back on. As you said, the matte black on the barrel was GTG so I wrapped it in paper and gently slid the rail over it. Went back on easy with no disruption of the finish on the barrel or rail.

Posted: 7/7/2010 8:33:13 AM EDT

[#23]

Quoted:
Thanks Gatorhunt. I didn't mar the finish when I put the rail back on. As you said, the matte black on the barrel was GTG so I wrapped it in paper and gently slid the rail over it. Went back on easy with no disruption of the finish on the barrel or rail.

No problem .. I think you'll be fine the matte colors seem to cure/dry really quick ... the glossy colors and clear coat however take every bit of the time stated if not more to cure/dry before you can handle it or re-coat.

Posted: 8/11/2010 11:06:03 PM EDT

[#24]

I did my 1991A1

My WASR

Quite a few AR15 mags and my brothers WASR in coyote. I don't have any pics of his.

All done with careful prep and heating to the parts that were painted. Then baking them again to degas it. Then they sat for 2 weeks just to be sure. So far everything is holding up quite well.

Posted: 8/12/2010 4:22:27 AM EDT

[#25]

Nice job balloo93

That WASR looks brand new almost

Yep ... just follow the directions do a good job on the prep and give plenty of cure time ... I did a couple of mags and they are holding up great.

Posted: 8/12/2010 8:21:59 AM EDT

[#26]

I just got my alumahyde shipment in yestereday. I'm thinking of doing a camo with green alumahyde and using the original black factory finish for the dark. Here's my basic run down, please sharpshoot as needed and I'll do pics when done.

Degrease rifle and remove plastic bits (necessary?)
Dry and use netting/tape off pattern
Spray on green
Carefully remove netting and tape
Clearcoat within 20 min
Ovenbake @ 200 (how long?)
Reassemble and either cry or giggle
Repeat as necessary.

Oh I forgot get the wife drunk so she doesnt complain about the oven.

Posted: 8/12/2010 4:58:22 PM EDT

[#27]

Quoted:
I just got my alumahyde shipment in yestereday. I'm thinking of doing a camo with green alumahyde and using the original black factory finish for the dark. Here's my basic run down, please sharpshoot as needed and I'll do pics when done.

Degrease rifle and remove plastic bits (necessary?)
Dry and use netting/tape off pattern
Spray on green
Carefully remove netting and tape
Clearcoat within 20 min
Ovenbake @ 200 (how long?)
Reassemble and either cry or giggle
Repeat as necessary.

Oh I forgot get the wife drunk so she doesnt complain about the oven.

I do my project early in the morning after the kids are in school. Open a window and put a fan in there to blow it out. Most of the smell is gone after about 5hrs.

I baked mine at 225* for about 45 mins.

Posted: 8/13/2010 8:22:55 AM EDT

[#28]

Good deal. I take it leave the oven open afterwards to air it out? Also how is resprayability? Does the can gum up after usage or can I spray some stuff now and spray my upper when it gets back from adco later without worrying about a clogged nozzle? Also will plastic grips and such survive at 225 for 45min?

Posted: 8/13/2010 9:36:18 AM EDT

[#29]

Quoted:
Good deal. I take it leave the oven open afterwards to air it out? Also how is resprayability? Does the can gum up after usage or can I spray some stuff now and spray my upper when it gets back from adco later without worrying about a clogged nozzle? Also will plastic grips and such survive at 225 for 45min?

They do get clogged a little ... I cleaned off the nozzle with some mineral spirits after I was done and they were fine when I reused them. Someone else in here was talking about replacement nozzles they purchased from Brownell's for that vary reason but said they sucked and didn't work worth a crap. YMMV

Posted: 8/13/2010 10:27:40 PM EDT

[#30]

Quoted:
Good deal. I take it leave the oven open afterwards to air it out? Also how is resprayability? Does the can gum up after usage or can I spray some stuff now and spray my upper when it gets back from adco later without worrying about a clogged nozzle? Also will plastic grips and such survive at 225 for 45min?

I hold the can upside down and press the nozzle until it sprays clear. The wipe the nozzle end with mineral spirits or alcohol.

Remove the plastic parts when baking.

Yes, I crack open the oven and keep the heat on for a couple of minutes then turn it off and leave the door cracked for a few hours.

I used metal Kabob skewers that were bent in shapes to hold the barrel and receiver. I then removed the bottom shelf of the oven. I then put the top rack at the highest position.

Painted the item, my AK had two coats, my colt got 2, and my brothers Ak got three coats. I gave it about an hour to sit.

Then carefully removed any painters tape and hung the item in the oven so that it was suspended from the top rack.

Slid it in and then closed the door and heated up the oven. Once done, I let it sit for a bit and then moved it from the kitchen to the garage and hung it there for a few days to a week before I put everything back together.

Posted: 8/14/2010 8:59:19 AM EDT

[#31]

Awesome, that should do it. I'll put up pics when I'm done but I'm sending of my bbl to adco for reprofiling so it may be a bit.

Posted: 8/14/2010 1:31:05 PM EDT

[#32]

Be sure to read the direction about the time between coats. It's pretty easy to do, and just so you know, Brake Cleaner will remove the AlumahydeII pretty easily, so screw ups are easily repairable.

Posted: 9/4/2010 7:25:26 PM EDT

[#33]

My 1911 I re-finished with 3 coats of aluma-hyde 2 flat black that was let cure in between then wet sanded and polished after the last coat to a satin finish ... came out pretty nice.

Posted: 9/25/2010 12:52:43 PM EDT

[#34]

Posted: 9/27/2010 6:44:08 AM EDT

[#35]

c

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Posted: 9/27/2010 11:44:36 PM EDT

[#36]

Non-Chlorinated Brake Clean and Acetone also work great to clean out the nozzles if they are clogged beyond poking with a skewer.

Brownells also sells replacement nozzles for a couple bucks and usually includes 10-12 nozzles. In my experience with AH2, it takes about a month to fully cure, at least in Northwest Oregon, that is.

I've done a bunch of AR mags and if they aren't allowed to fully cure before use or cleaning, the finish will chip, scratch or just plain come off when using something like Gun Scrubber or Brake Clean.

After I coat something with AH2, I basically hang it in my garage and forget about it for a month or so. This has served me well as I did my PASGT helmet in FDE and OD and after letting it dry for over a month, I can't put a mark in it.

Link one.

Link two.

Posted: 10/27/2010 6:25:38 PM EDT

[#37]

Does anyone have a pic with different items finished in a bunch of AH colors side by side for comparison? OP, you've used a lot of different colors - got any pics of them all together?