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Posted: 3/22/2018 8:19:12 PM EDT
I would like to build a can, however, I am trying to compare the cost difference and quality difference between building versus commercial. Currently, I am interested in a Sparrow can, however, if I can build one similar for around the same price, I would be happier.

What parts are recommended / standard for .22/.17 HMR?

Tube size?
Baffle types? (Cone vs freeze plugs)
Recommended adapter (threaded vs an adapter)

Any insight is appreciated. Thanks.
Link Posted: 3/22/2018 8:42:19 PM EDT
[#1]
What hosts?  Handgun as well as rifle?

To build a monocore like the Sparrow practically requires a mill.

A typical rimfire suppressor is 1" OD X 6" long.  If you don't have access to a lathe your best bet is signing up on the Form 1 suppressor boards and then PMing Diversified Machine to get details on their design/supplies. Once you have a max length you can send in your Form 1.  There's good tutorial, background info there.

In a rifle shooting subsonic rimfire pretty much any baffle design will work. On pistols K baffles have low first round pop, low back pressure, and a nice full tone. Supersonic .17 cal will always have a high 130s supersonic crack.

1/2-28 is most common threading for .22 barrels.

ETA: Tactical Machining has a bargain .22 rimfire only suppressor for around $130.  Capitol Armory still has the AAC Element 2 for $230.  Factory .22 cans aren't a bad bargain as they have access to 17-4 stainless or 7075 Al tubing that is hard to source in small quantities for a Form 1 build.  That leaves 6061 or 2024 aluminum or Grade 9 titanium. An all titanium home built doesn't save much.  When you factor in the $200 stamp a cheap home built is poor economy over a factory built unless you have some specific design that isn't available commercially.
Link Posted: 3/22/2018 9:27:54 PM EDT
[#2]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
What hosts?  Handgun as well as rifle?

To build a monocore like the Sparrow practically requires a mill.

A typical rimfire suppressor is 1" OD X 6" long.  If you don't have access to a lathe your best bet is signing up on the Form 1 suppressor boards and then PMing Diversified Machine to get details on their design/supplies. Once you have a max length you can send in your Form 1.  There's good tutorial, background info there.

In a rifle shooting subsonic rimfire pretty much any baffle design will work. On pistols K baffles have low first round pop, low back pressure, and a nice full tone. Supersonic .17 cal will always have a high 130s supersonic crack.

1/2-28 is most common threading for .22 barrels.

ETA: Tactical Machining has a bargain .22 rimfire only suppressor for around $130.  Capitol Armory still has the AAC Element 2 for $230.  Factory .22 cans aren't a bad bargain as they have access to 17-4 stainless or 7075 Al tubing that is hard to source in small quantities for a Form 1 build.  That leaves 6061 or 2024 aluminum or Grade 9 titanium. An all titanium home built doesn't save much.  When you factor in the $200 stamp a cheap home built is poor economy over a factory built unless you have some specific design that isn't available commercially.
View Quote
This is wisdom.
Link Posted: 3/22/2018 10:29:27 PM EDT
[#3]
There has been good advise already provided. I would suggest avoiding a monocore unless you have a cnc mill to build it on. I prefer radial cones over k baffles myself since k baffles will have a poi shift inherent to the design and cones can be clipped with a simple Double clip that will perform very well. Sig has just released a 22lr can that uses the double clip.

DM has a great 1"×6"  22lr solvent trap kit that has one ss radial cone and 6 titanium  radial cones ti thread adapter and ti endcap grade 9 Ti tube for $150.00 last time I looked.

What it comes down to is do you feel you have the mechanical skills and tools to do the drilling of the cones and keeping the hole centered then clipping the cones. There is more to it than just drilling holes.
Link Posted: 3/25/2018 11:26:07 PM EDT
[#4]
The first rimfire I built was a monocore and I simply drilled the chambers in a drill press.  I used a file to take a bit more metal out of the corners and shape the chambers.
Used scrap metal, only cost was a $5 ebay tap for the threads.

It works great on rifles but is a bit louder on pistols than commercial silencers.  But it cost $5 and I made it myself, I'm happy with it.
Link Posted: 3/26/2018 11:17:17 AM EDT
[#5]
A tube and cones would be easy.

If you really want a form 1 monocore, you could always start w/ one of these ebay designs. You'll just need to get creative with the tube.


Link Posted: 3/26/2018 6:27:49 PM EDT
[#6]
It does not have to be a monocore. I like DM, but I haven't received a response back from him in a week... Im just interested in building sometjibg reliable and efficient. I would love to order a kit from DM if he sells them.
Link Posted: 3/27/2018 3:38:25 PM EDT
[#7]
If I was in your shoes, I wouldn't have an issue with either of these.

https://kmtactical.net/22lr-solvent-trap-1-2x28.html


http://www.quietbore.com/#!/22LR-Solvent-Trap/p/77431822/category=22034117


Specifically going with baffle design, I'd choose the KM Tactical kit.
They're both Aluminum so using the dip would not be an option, but there's always ultrasonic. TBH, I don't clean suppressors so it's moot for me.
The QB kit does offer a Ti upgrade, for an additional $100. Aluminum is fine, Ti is stronger (and heavier), so you'll need to weigh this. I'd stick with the Aluminum, if it fits your needs (no full auto, etc). If, in a couple years, you need a new suppressor, the $100 you saved can be put towards a newer model/design.
Link Posted: 3/27/2018 9:53:02 PM EDT
[#8]
I actually have all 3, DM, kM, and quiet bore. The qb is much louder than the other two and the k baffles are k baffles at all. The slots on the flat above the cone doesn't help.

The km cones are probably closer to 46 degree than 60° cones but perform better than the QB.

The DM KIT with ti radials and ti tube outperform the other two. A simple double clip is all that is needed.

Have you tried to email DM at [email protected]
Link Posted: 3/28/2018 7:51:54 AM EDT
[#9]
From what I've read, the DM kit is going to cost around $300. You'll need to add the cost of engraving and any coating you may want as well as your time to finish the baffles. All said and done, you could have bought the suppressor you wanted and had a warranty. If you got into the suppressor game simply to build your own, regardless of cost, go for it. If you want to leave some room in your pocket to possibly build another, well, I think you know the answer to that one . I'm not going to engage in a rehash of a previous argument. I'd rather have a suppressor that was 5dB louder and $200 cheaper.
Link Posted: 3/29/2018 10:28:04 AM EDT
[#10]
A couple of months ago DM was selling his titantium 1" × 6" 22lr kits for $150.00.  Any solvent trap kit purchased will require marking to comply with regulations.

Like I have said many times everybody has different goals.
Link Posted: 3/30/2018 12:03:59 PM EDT
[#11]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
I actually have all 3, DM, kM, and quiet bore. The qb is much louder than the other two and the k baffles are k baffles at all. The slots on the flat above the cone doesn't help.

The km cones are probably closer to 46 degree than 60° cones but perform better than the QB.

The DM KIT with ti radials and ti tube outperform the other two. A simple double clip is all that is needed.

Have you tried to email DM at [email protected]
View Quote
Have you weighed the 3 kits?  I'm interested in how they compare.
Link Posted: 3/31/2018 9:55:27 PM EDT
[#12]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:

Have you weighed the 3 kits?  I'm interested in how they compare.
View Quote
I've sold the QB can and km can both were lighter than the DM can but I do have one of his and will weigh it and let you know.
Link Posted: 4/3/2018 12:41:55 AM EDT
[#13]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:

Have you weighed the 3 kits?  I'm interested in how they compare.
View Quote
The DM 1"× 6" kit weighs 7.2 oz. 1 ss & 5 ti radials
Link Posted: 4/11/2018 7:24:16 PM EDT
[#14]
I went with the DM kit for several reasons. The quality and reputation was the first reason. I plan on purchasing my own mill and following the form 1 process. My first can was an AAC SDN-6, however, I like the idea of owning a mill and being able to finish this myself. DM was great to work with. I'm hoping to purchase more kits from him. Thanks everyone for the help.
Link Posted: 7/24/2018 1:15:20 AM EDT
[#15]
Anyone ever heard of Rusty's Cans? I can personally attest that his designs will equal if not substantially outperform ANY commercial can. Google it, you won't find a website, but what you will find is a top contributor on another forum who provides a wealth of knowledge and experience to countless others, all of whom as I can attest will confirm that his products regularly outperform their favorite commercial cans, at probably half the cost of commercial if not less. His products are simply second to none. With all due respect, those who believe that DM components are too expensive and would rather pick up a $150 commercial can or throw together a FP contraption while disregarding quality will be lucky to have an operational can in a year, just as crappy and inaccurate as it was from day one, if it works at all.  Alternatively, Rusty's Cans or one with quality DM components will cost more, but you will end up with the quietest, spot-on accurate can with minimal if not zero POI variation that is a lifetime investment (to me, at least...)  Don't wish to offend anyone here, simply trying to help you find what you're seeking, just as I was; after years of experimenting, research, testing and sampling different manufacturers and varying design methods, I FINALLY found "panacea":  buy the best can available from Rusty's Cans, or at least use top-quality DM or zmachineworx components. (And no, rest assured that I'm no DM or Rusty's Cans shill by any means, just an extremely satisfied customer with both!)   Do what your budget will allow, but if you truly seek a quality can that'll save you 10-15+ db, not throw flyers in every direction when trying to actually hit what you're aiming at, not to mention something that'll last a lifetime, take a look...
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