New to bows and wanting to get an entry level long or recurve bow to target practice to fill some time gaps. Eventually would use to hunt with but that will be a few years.

Looking at the three rivers archery.com sammick sage bow.  Any other options in this price range or recommendations??

Thinking about their $219 entry package. Probably 35-40# pull. Can get bow target locally.

That is a very fine option; one of the best starter recurves out there. If you are starting as a brand new shooter (not transitioning from a compound) I'd go with the 35#

Any idea on the type of arrows or accessories that come with that kit?

Not familiar with that brand of arrow that comes with the kit but in your weight range you certainly don't want to go any stiffer than the 500's. Too bad the don't offer 600's for the 35# one. You may find you need a bit of Point weight    at 35#. I shot Beman Centershots 500's cut at 30.5" with 150gr up front from my 45# bows (I drew 28").

It looks like the Sage is offered in kit form only on 3Rivers. I tend not to like kits as I prefer to have all the options open for gloves/tabs, arrows etc. While I prefer carbons I have to tell you they are tougher to tune than aluminums. If you have someone who can help you with arrow tuning no issue but if you are going to have to learn as you go I would start with aluminums and then play with carbons once you get some tuning experience under your belt. You will find small changes in length with carbons can make a big difference

Yea it looks like I can get just the bow for $100 on eBay new and add 12 aluminum arrows from amazon for $30. Then only need a glove. So I m going to just purchase separately. Any deals on the safe you are aware of websites to look into?

Thanks

I grew up shooting recurve target archery through college. I've also hunted with compounds, recurves and longbows.

I would start off with a barebow recurve. You're going to get some more speed out of it, and they are a lot more comfortable for your shooting wrist.

The smoother shooting longbows get expensive, fast.

Most of the stuff in that samick kit, you'll be throwing away soon. You'll be upgrading that bow quickly too.

Three piece recurves have the benefit of breaking down for transport, plus you can always upgrade the limbs later too.

yea makes me feel better about buying the items separately. Most kits seem like lots of fluff included.

Barebow. Never heard of that.

Barebow is a recurve or a longbow without sights.

You'll also hear it referred to an instinctual, or traditional.

Some of the diehard traditional guys will make their own bows, their own arrows, some even knap their own flint broadheads.

I'll snap a pic of my longbow when I get back to the house.

I have a 50# Samick Sage that I really enjoy shooting. What an awesome bow for the money.

I would buy just the bow itself in 30-35#, then go to a proshop to get measured for your drawlength.

I have had issues with getting the correct arrows by just going off the spine charts on the back of the arrow boxes. I've been using this Spine Calculator from 3 Rivers and it's been really accurate.

I shoot 3D with the Sage, using Easton 6mm FMJ 470's cut at 29.5" with three 5" feathers and 125gr points.

That is good advice too. 35# is a good way to start. You'll still be a little sore, but that will go away fast.

If you start too high of a draw weight, it won't be fun to shoot for a while, it will hurt, plus it's a lot easier to develop good consistent form when you aren't close to giving yourself a hernia every shot.

Here's my Martin Savannah. 45#, shoots pretty smooth for production longbow. 45# for me to shoot casually is perfect to casually shoot 3d, small game, or javelina. I'd be bringing my compound on a deer or an elk hunt.

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Just bought the Samick Sage from Lancaster with 30# limbs. Also order 8 Easton Tribute starter arrows.

Now to make myself a box target. Post pics when it’s ready to go. Thanks for the help   Any tips on targets let me know. .

Are you in Eastern NC?

Now that I think about this... you sound very familiar.

Got my bow in last week and my target built. Used the DIY target skins and some old wood I had laying around. Stuffed target 3’x3’ with old clothes works great.

Shot a few times last night going to mark off distances tonight and get a glove

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The absolute hardest part of shooting a trad bow for me was learning how to tune arrows. Now that I’ve got all kinds of tip weights, inserts, etc it’s not that bad, but when I first started I couldn’t hit shit and couldn’t figure out why.

OP give 3 rivers archery a call. They will get you in the ballpark with tuning. After that google “bare shaft” tuning and start learning.

Traditional archery is a bit like golf. I’ll shoot one day and can’t miss, and grab my bow the next day and can’t hit shit. Frustrating, but rewarding all at the same time. I refer to it as “real” archery. Even more satisfying when you kill an animal with a bare bow.

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I was shooting in Michigan last week.  Man was it fun.  Look at my friend Big Jim’s web site for used bows.  I scored a Centaur from Montana at the Spring Fling in Tennessee.  Trad bow hunting is so much more satisfying for me at least.  Caution however it’s addictive.

If you shoot "off the shelf" you'll need arrows fletched with feathers.  If you choose to use an arrow rest that is compatible with plastic vanes then your arrows can use the vanes.

Shooting arrows with plastic vanes, off the shelf, will throw the arrows sideways and angled up or down towards the target.

Overweight bow is a problem.  I'd start with something like a Samick Journey in 25 lb weight, even if you can draw more.  Get heavier draw weight limbs as your shooting progresses.

Lower draw weight makes it easier to torque the string in pitch, roll and yaw, all of these will throw a shot.  If you master the technique of accuracy with low draw weight and short fletching, then higher draw weight with longer fletching is easier because you will have good form and release.

Use a tab or glove that gives you good feel of the string, this will help you get a good and consistent release.

Edit to add, Journey over Sage because the Journey is longer and thus has less angle of the string at the tab or glove.  Less angle reduces finger pinch and has less chance of string torqueing in roll, pitch or yaw.  Longer bow also has less chance or bow torqueing at the bow hold hand.  Open the bow hand, cradle the bow, instead of gripping the bow, gripping can torque the bow in roll, pitch and yaw.  Yep, just like the string.

Edit again, compound bows are usually shorter, so archers use a release to prevent string torqueing.  It, a release, works!