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Nice. I like that you use a standard flash hider. And thanks for the extra info on the rail. Real big help
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To be honest I used to use all the wonder muzzle device but they cost a lot of $$$ and not a whole lot of change. Yes muzzle breaks mitigate some recoil but the difference is pretty minimal on a 223/5.56 rifle but the boom and concussion annoy my tinnitus more than what they are worth to me. So most all my rifles have standard A2's on them. I am not air dropping into the middle east for a covert mission to knock off some high value target where my flash would get me killed or doing some super dooper black ops top secret missions so the A2 is way more that sufficient. Rather spend the money on ammo, mags, range membership, and upgrading my optics line up. If I get a suppressor someday I will change the muzzle devices but not going to drop a ton of coin on that till I decide on suppressor.
On the FSB cutting few things to note you will need to contour the front of the gas block to fit under the handguard and you can take off more material than you might think especially from the font. I hack saw off the A portion about a minute to cut it off and the bayonet lug, bench ground down as much as I could since it makes much shorter work of the removing material than the dremel. Once you get the gas block shaped 95% that is when you can keep using the dremel or file to remove any excess that might be to close or touching inside the handguard. If you have never removed the taper pins or never removed taper pins in general either get an armorer's block for removing the front sight or make one from a 2x4. Use a punch that has a lot of surface area to contact the pin I have a really large probably 1/2" punch I use to get the pins moving. They may be in there tight so it will take a good whack do not be delicate and use a BFH to get it moving. Once you get them moving it is cake walk but sometimes they are tight in there and need a swift hard strike to budge them. When reinstalling them I use my small handheld sledge and a normal ball peen hammer get the pins in about 90-95% and rest the sledge on the pen head and strike the sledge to with the ball peen hammer as I hate missing a punch and striking my hand to seat the pin.