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Posted: 9/24/2018 3:28:32 PM EDT
[#1]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Many of my Colts have been/are 2 marked. I think that's more so who drilled the taper pins than who made the FSB. Then again I don't use blocks....I've always just layed the barrel and carpet, propped the pins level and smacked away. Now that I think about it the only thing I even use a smith for is barrel lathe work. Other than that I prefer doing everything myself. Same with my vehicles https://i.imgur.com/ATZPu6m.jpg Quote HistoryQuoted:
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And just to add... You can't assume all FSBs are installed the same way. The blocks from Brownells, Andersons, etc. are cut so that you place the FSB in one way to remove pins and the other way to install. Two weeks ago I was changing to a rail and needed to remove one. Looking at the pins I wasn't sure which end was bigger. Put it in the block to remove.... nope. Flipped it over to install - they popped right out. you need to drill another pair of holes if you want to do that i just skip it now and take it to a gunsmith if i get one of those if you have a front sight block that has a 2 on it, just fucking run, or throw it away from you in disgust. the pins are probably installed backwards https://i.imgur.com/ATZPu6m.jpg |
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Posted: 9/24/2018 5:34:31 PM EDT
[#2]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Who installs them reverse of standard? |
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Posted: 9/24/2018 5:59:42 PM EDT
[#3]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
The one I had was an S&W 5.45 upper. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Who installs them reverse of standard? |
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Posted: 9/24/2018 6:01:15 PM EDT
[#4]
 JT did mine after I hammered the living shit out of it to no avail |
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Posted: 9/24/2018 10:47:53 PM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/5205/BB128FAD-EE72-4117-8456-2BFF06CAAFAD-495930.jpg JT did mine after I hammered the living shit out of it to no avail |
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Posted: 9/24/2018 10:55:15 PM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Have y'all ever knocked out the pins BCM puts in with brass? Seems like it would deform before the pin moved. BCM whips 'em in retard tight. I put heat on them to get things agreeable before proceeding with driving them out. |
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Posted: 9/24/2018 11:14:44 PM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryQuoted: the specialty punch from Brownells is quite literally a Starrett nail punch the tip is fully concave a nail set has a concave dimple but it has more metal on the sides mine broke because the edge was too thin |
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Posted: 9/25/2018 1:25:49 AM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
no its not the tip is fully concave a nail set has a concave dimple but it has more metal on the sides mine broke because the edge was too thin Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted: the specialty punch from Brownells is quite literally a Starrett nail punch the tip is fully concave a nail set has a concave dimple but it has more metal on the sides mine broke because the edge was too thin |
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Posted: 9/25/2018 5:12:47 AM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Have y'all ever knocked out the pins BCM puts in with brass? Seems like it would deform before the pin moved. BCM whips 'em in retard tight.  I bought a big set and use the largest punch to knock loose, I think the heavy hammer is more important lol
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Posted: 9/25/2018 1:09:34 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote History |
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Posted: 9/25/2018 1:58:26 PM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted: thats it, it broke and is a POS the cheap nail sets from harbor freight work better. but here's the thing, i'm not sure why they work better i never want to wail away on anything that a) costs that much, and b) says Starrett on it i'm never afraid to pound on anything from harbor freight though |
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Posted: 9/25/2018 2:15:55 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
A big taper punch with a flat tip and a 5lb hammer. Back it up on a big dense wood block. Once the pin is flush it's loose and can be tapped out with anything. Colt and BCM taper pins are literally one minute ordeals to take out with the right punch, hammer, and block. If in doubt about which side to hit, get out your calipers and measure. Sometimes it is hard to tell. My Armalite M15 used hardened dowel pins that weren't tapered. I use a 3 lb. hammer. 
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Posted: 9/25/2018 2:17:35 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I use a cupped taper pin punch and a ball peen hammer. If the pins are really stubborn, I use a 7/16" piece of round stock that has some nice taper pin shaped indents in it. I used to use wood as a block, but I've found my Magpul BEV block works perfectly as a front sight block. http://www.avantlink.com/click.php?tt=cl&pw=55963&ctc=jmi1mm5sqd00zk8a00y51&mi=10077&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.brownells.com%2Fuserdocs%2Fskus%2Fp_827530320_1.jpg https://www.metalmaniauk.com/product-images/Normal/6ee0726c-351e-402e-ba85-a4d4887895f6-1.jpg The top item in your photo appears to be a "nail set" which usually aren't very hard. They are used to set finish nails on things like baseboards. |
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Posted: 9/25/2018 2:55:49 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
agreed, it's a piece of shit the cheap nail sets from harbor freight work better. but here's the thing, i'm not sure why they work better i never want to wail away on anything that a) costs that much, and b) says Starrett on it i'm never afraid to pound on anything from harbor freight though Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted: thats it, it broke and is a POS the cheap nail sets from harbor freight work better. but here's the thing, i'm not sure why they work better i never want to wail away on anything that a) costs that much, and b) says Starrett on it i'm never afraid to pound on anything from harbor freight though The end of the punch mushroomed on my first FSB taper pin removal attempt and it was destroyed, I wasn't able the get the taper pins to budge so I had to send the barrel back to the manufacturer to have the FSB removed.
Now I have three more of these punches and I only use them for installing taper pins, and so far they've worked great for that. Oddly enough, most of the reviews on it are good. Maybe some of them just aren't getting heat treated correctly. |
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Posted: 9/25/2018 3:25:07 PM EDT
[#15]
I've used the Starrett taper pin punch, and mine hasn't failed or mushroomed or anything like that. The only drawback I've experienced with it, since it has a sturdier design than the Brownells cup-tip punches that I also have, I like to use it for hammering out the more stubborn ones. but you have to watch out, because once the pin starts moving, you have to switch to the Brownells punch, because if you use the Starrett punch to fully drive out the pin, when the pin gets loose suddenly, you've driven the Starrett punch tip into the pin hole, and since it has a tapered tip, well, you've just wallered out the skinny end of the hole just a little bit, now you're seeing shiny metal around the pin when you reassemble.
no biggie, easily touched up. but avoidable if you're paying attention. a little annoying, sorta like, "oh crap". it's sorta like choose your weapon carefully to suit the task at hand. switch tools at the right time, resist the reflex urge to do "one more whack and it's out". just my 2 cents. |
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Posted: 9/25/2018 4:46:19 PM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Who installs them reverse of standard? Took pics, posted them to Smith and Wesson, got ZERO RESPONSE, BUPKUS. Saddened me to see that from them. And we have had a couple of Rugers come in the same way IIRC. There might have been a couple of others as well, but I dont remember them by name at the moment. As bad as that is, what I think is worse is the companies that feel it is necessary to install the pins with a f***kin 20 ton hydraulic press. Totally unnecessary under any circumstances. I have seen that on several different makers uppers over the years. |
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Posted: 9/25/2018 4:52:48 PM EDT
[#17]
You don't use a small punch for this type of work. Get a big heavy punch, and a nice mallet. Smack that fuckin' pin hard. Make sure the back of the FSB is supported on a surface that won't cause it to bounce, and remember that it's tapered, so hit it from correct side. Then finish with a smaller punch.
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Posted: 9/25/2018 5:03:41 PM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted: For starters, I have had at least 6 S&W ARs in the last year or so come through the shop for hand guard swaps, and EVERY ONE OF THEM HAD THE PINS IN WRONG! And even looking closely with magnification, it was difficult to determine which was the smaller end. Came down to trying it the CORRECT way first, and reversing the barrel and trying it from the WRONG side. Took pics, posted them to Smith and Wesson, got ZERO RESPONSE, BUPKUS. Saddened me to see that from them. And we have had a couple of Rugers come in the same way IIRC. There might have been a couple of others as well, but I dont remember them by name at the moment. As bad as that is, what I think is worse is the companies that feel it is necessary to install the pins with a f***kin 20 ton hydraulic press. Totally unnecessary under any circumstances. I have seen that on several different makers uppers over the years. |
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Posted: 9/25/2018 5:20:54 PM EDT
[#19]
Big oversized heavy punch hit hard with a big, heavy hammer will break it loose, then tap it through with the small punch.
It's a matter of simple physics: force = mass times acceleration. |
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Posted: 9/25/2018 5:38:30 PM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryQuoted: For starters, I have had at least 6 S&W ARs in the last year or so come through the shop for hand guard swaps, and EVERY ONE OF THEM HAD THE PINS IN WRONG! And even looking closely with magnification, it was difficult to determine which was the smaller end. Came down to trying it the CORRECT way first, and reversing the barrel and trying it from the WRONG side. Took pics, posted them to Smith and Wesson, got ZERO RESPONSE, BUPKUS. Saddened me to see that from them. And we have had a couple of Rugers come in the same way IIRC. There might have been a couple of others as well, but I dont remember them by name at the moment. As bad as that is, what I think is worse is the companies that feel it is necessary to install the pins with a f***kin 20 ton hydraulic press. Totally unnecessary under any circumstances. I have seen that on several different makers uppers over the years. |
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