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Posted: 9/23/2018 11:32:16 AM EDT
[#1]
A big taper punch with a flat tip and a 5lb hammer. Back it up on a big dense wood block. Once the pin is flush it's loose and can be tapped out with anything.
Colt and BCM taper pins are literally one minute ordeals to take out with the right punch, hammer, and block. |
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Posted: 9/23/2018 11:35:33 AM EDT
[#2]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
A big taper punch with a flat tip and a 5lb hammer. Back it up on a big dense wood block. Once the pin is flush it's loose and can be tapped out with anything. Colt and BCM taper pins are literally one minute ordeals to take out with the right punch, hammer, and block. |
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Posted: 9/23/2018 11:36:36 AM EDT
[#3]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
A big taper punch with a flat tip and a 5lb hammer. Back it up on a big dense wood block. Once the pin is flush it's loose and can be tapped out with anything. Colt and BCM taper pins are literally one minute ordeals to take out with the right punch, hammer, and block. |
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Posted: 9/23/2018 11:42:44 AM EDT
[#4]
Smack the ever living shit out of them. Don't pussy foot around. Hit 'em hard . . . really hard.
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Posted: 9/23/2018 11:49:55 AM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
So use the bigger punch first then the skinny one? Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
A big taper punch with a flat tip and a 5lb hammer. Back it up on a big dense wood block. Once the pin is flush it's loose and can be tapped out with anything. Colt and BCM taper pins are literally one minute ordeals to take out with the right punch, hammer, and block. Use the largest punch that matches the small end diameter and whack them hard. Once they budge, they're super easy to get out. If reinstalling them, use the biggest punch you have and smack them in until the large end is flush with the FSB, if the pin needs to be driven in further, you would then grab your punch that matches the large pin end diameter |
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Posted: 9/23/2018 12:01:50 PM EDT
[#6]
Thank you, everyone. I think I understand now.
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Posted: 9/23/2018 12:02:39 PM EDT
[#7]
The punch I use has a 3/8" flat tip. Much bigger than the small end of the pin. The punch is about a foot long and probably weighs a pound. When you hit it with a 5lb hammer it drives the pin flush in one lick, and that's all you need. It's loose now and you can use a little 8oz hammer and an 1/8" punch to tap the pins through.
You want to break the pins loose in one hit, or as few as possible because the more you beat on it, the more you chance to slip off and dick something up with a hammer and punch. |
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Posted: 9/23/2018 12:07:39 PM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Thank you, everyone. I think I understand now. 
The way you worded your post before this it sounds like you may have been trying to drive them out from the wrong side. Just remember to knock them out of the FSB, you push from the small end of the pin, if knocking them back into a FSB, you drive the pin from its larger end |
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Posted: 9/23/2018 12:09:17 PM EDT
[#9]
I use a bronze punch that is thick. I put one side of the fsb on a wood block and hit it from the other side with the bronze punch. Once loose, I use a regular punch to drive them through.
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Posted: 9/23/2018 12:17:25 PM EDT
[#10]
3mm cup-tip punch. the longer one for knocking out, the shorter one for re-installing.
Brownells cup-tip punches |
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Posted: 9/23/2018 12:22:15 PM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Now be honest.....were you hitting the large end of the taper pins?
The way you worded your post before this it sounds like you may have been trying to drive them out from the wrong side. Just remember to knock them out of the FSB, you push from the small end of the pin, if knocking them back into a FSB, you drive the pin from its larger end |
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Posted: 9/23/2018 12:48:08 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
3mm cup-tip punch. the longer one for knocking out, the shorter one for re-installing. Brownells cup-tip punches |
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Posted: 9/23/2018 12:55:53 PM EDT
[#13]
I use a section of brass round, 7/8" or so. 3 lb BFH and shock them loose.
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Posted: 9/23/2018 3:28:59 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Thanks. Looks like what I am looking for! Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
3mm cup-tip punch. the longer one for knocking out, the shorter one for re-installing. Brownells cup-tip punches go get a nailset set from a big box store. I have bought/broke the speciality punches from brownells I only use a nail set now and a 5 lb sledge |
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Posted: 9/23/2018 4:21:11 PM EDT
[#15]
I use a cupped taper pin punch and a ball peen hammer. If the pins are really stubborn, I use a 7/16" piece of round stock that has some nice taper pin shaped indents in it. I used to use wood as a block, but I've found my Magpul BEV block works perfectly as a front sight block.
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Posted: 9/23/2018 4:40:05 PM EDT
[#16]
The only thing I do different than using as big a punch and hammer as I can is put the FSB/barrel in a padded vise. I use a vise that allows me to turn the jaws into a vertical orientation. Allow just enough clearance to access the pins. Whack them hard. Usually comes out in one or two hits.
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Posted: 9/23/2018 5:05:14 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I use a cupped taper pin punch and a ball peen hammer. If the pins are really stubborn, I use a 7/16" piece of round stock that has some nice taper pin shaped indents in it. I used to use wood as a block, but I've found my Magpul BEV block works perfectly as a front sight block. https://www.brownells.com/userdocs/skus/p_827530320_1.jpg https://www.metalmaniauk.com/product-images/Normal/6ee0726c-351e-402e-ba85-a4d4887895f6-1.jpg |
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Posted: 9/23/2018 5:38:11 PM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
What punch is this? Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
I use a cupped taper pin punch and a ball peen hammer. If the pins are really stubborn, I use a 7/16" piece of round stock that has some nice taper pin shaped indents in it. I used to use wood as a block, but I've found my Magpul BEV block works perfectly as a front sight block. https://www.brownells.com/userdocs/skus/p_827530320_1.jpg https://www.metalmaniauk.com/product-images/Normal/6ee0726c-351e-402e-ba85-a4d4887895f6-1.jpg 
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Posted: 9/23/2018 5:42:16 PM EDT
[#19]
That actually isn't the brand of mine, but it's pretty close to the one I have (I just picked a similar one, that's a stock photo from Brownells). I think mine is actually a really old Stanley, maybe? If so, they no longer make that style. I'd have to look.
ETA: Here is the actual product in the photo. Price is a little high IMO. https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/rifle-tools/pin-tools/taper-pin-starter-prod26485.aspx |
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Posted: 9/23/2018 5:43:37 PM EDT
[#20]
I've used a standard punch set from harbor freight with success my last couple of builds.
For me, using a Heavy(5lbs. or more) / short handled hammer works great. Main thing is not being afraid to wack the pins.
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Posted: 9/23/2018 6:26:59 PM EDT
[#21]
I use a Snap-on 3/8" flat punch to get them started, and the smaller one to punch them through.
Put it on a concrete floor, and smack the shit out of that punch with a 4 pounder. I use the Brownells puck to make life a little easier. ETA my spelling |
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Posted: 9/23/2018 6:32:54 PM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Larger view of pic in link posted by @krdt https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/416992/Screenshot_20180923-163631-680919.png dont waste the money |
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Posted: 9/23/2018 6:47:04 PM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I use a section of brass round, 7/8" or so. 3 lb BFH and shock them loose. Usually, one or 2 good hammer blows and the pin will pop free, from there it's cake. No marring to the fsb either. |
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Posted: 9/23/2018 6:47:40 PM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
That actually isn't the brand of mine, but it's pretty close to the one I have (I just picked a similar one, that's a stock photo from Brownells). I think mine is actually a really old Stanley, maybe? If so, they no longer make that style. I'd have to look. ETA: Here is the actual product in the photo. Price is a little high IMO. https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/rifle-tools/pin-tools/taper-pin-starter-prod26485.aspx 
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Posted: 9/23/2018 6:49:30 PM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
broke that on the second pin dont waste the money Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Larger view of pic in link posted by @krdt https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/416992/Screenshot_20180923-163631-680919.png dont waste the money |
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Posted: 9/23/2018 6:51:06 PM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Actually, I just double checked and my brass rounds are 5/8" and 3/4". Usually, one or 2 good hammer blows and the pin will pop free, from there it's cake. No marring to the fsb either. |
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Posted: 9/23/2018 7:04:07 PM EDT
[#27]
the best thing to use to remove taper pins on an FSB is a taper punch
in the hands on a gunsmith |
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Posted: 9/23/2018 7:05:53 PM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryQuoted: dont waste your money go get a nailset set from a big box store. I have bought/broke the speciality punches from brownells I only use a nail set now and a 5 lb sledge |
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Posted: 9/23/2018 7:35:49 PM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Actually, I just double checked and my brass rounds are 5/8" and 3/4". Usually, one or 2 good hammer blows and the pin will pop free, from there it's cake. No marring to the fsb either. |
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Posted: 9/23/2018 7:38:28 PM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
the best thing to use to remove taper pins on an FSB is a taper punch in the hands on a gunsmith With the proper tools pretty much anyone can do it. |
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Posted: 9/23/2018 8:00:15 PM EDT
[#31]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Brass punch, you mean? Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Actually, I just double checked and my brass rounds are 5/8" and 3/4". Usually, one or 2 good hammer blows and the pin will pop free, from there it's cake. No marring to the fsb either. |
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Posted: 9/23/2018 8:15:21 PM EDT
[#32]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Brass punch, you mean? Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Actually, I just double checked and my brass rounds are 5/8" and 3/4". Usually, one or 2 good hammer blows and the pin will pop free, from there it's cake. No marring to the fsb either. so, don't use the cheap drifts you can get from china via amazon or ebay |
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Posted: 9/23/2018 8:16:23 PM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryQuoted: If I paid a gunsmith every time I've removed taper pins that gunsmith would have a new wing on his house. Unless you have no tools and absolutely zero mechanical ability, paying someone to drive out two pins is a waste of money IMO. With the proper tools pretty much anyone can do it. |
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Posted: 9/23/2018 8:22:02 PM EDT
[#34]
Quote HistoryQuoted: brass won't mar, but it will attach to the surface if it's not hard enough so, don't use the cheap drifts you can get from china via amazon or ebay Alloy 360 brass round. It will not stick/transfer onto your fsb. 
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Posted: 9/23/2018 8:39:53 PM EDT
[#35]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
you should look into gunsmithing as a second career Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted: If I paid a gunsmith every time I've removed taper pins that gunsmith would have a new wing on his house. Unless you have no tools and absolutely zero mechanical ability, paying someone to drive out two pins is a waste of money IMO. With the proper tools pretty much anyone can do it. |
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Posted: 9/23/2018 8:48:20 PM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Brass punch, you mean?
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Posted: 9/23/2018 8:50:32 PM EDT
[#37]
Have y'all ever knocked out the pins BCM puts in with brass? Seems like it would deform before the pin moved. BCM whips 'em in retard tight.
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Posted: 9/23/2018 8:53:51 PM EDT
[#38]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Have y'all ever knocked out the pins BCM puts in with brass? Seems like it would deform before the pin moved. BCM whips 'em in retard tight. Colt/PSA/RRA/DD only here. |
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Posted: 9/23/2018 9:07:38 PM EDT
[#39]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Have y'all ever knocked out the pins BCM puts in with brass? Seems like it would deform before the pin moved. BCM whips 'em in retard tight. |
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Posted: 9/24/2018 10:32:04 AM EDT
[#40]
Quote HistoryQuoted: This^^^^ Alloy 360 brass round. It will not stick/transfer onto your fsb. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/416992/sm_brassround-681115.jpg Would a 1/4" one work? |
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Posted: 9/24/2018 10:42:53 AM EDT
[#41]
Quote HistoryQuoted: 3/4" of that thing is one thick and fat MFer, and expensive. Would a 1/4" one work? No more expensive than a good punch. 
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Posted: 9/24/2018 10:48:05 AM EDT
[#42]
This rod was used for a fsb removal last week, 4 hammer strikes to pop the pins free. Much better than fucking up a $25 hardened punch, IMO.
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Posted: 9/24/2018 10:51:07 AM EDT
[#43]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Never used one less than 5/8". No more expensive than a good punch. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/416992/Screenshot_20180924-094124-681530.png What's the reason that it needs to be so thick? |
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Posted: 9/24/2018 11:01:05 AM EDT
[#44]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Thanks. Found a cheaper deal on Amazon. What's the reason that it needs to be so thick? I swing a BFH at it and hit it with all I got, I like a larger landing pad. |
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Posted: 9/24/2018 11:40:17 AM EDT
[#45]
And just to add...
You can't assume all FSBs are installed the same way. The blocks from Brownells, Andersons, etc. are cut so that you place the FSB in one way to remove pins and the other way to install. Two weeks ago I was changing to a rail and needed to remove one. Looking at the pins I wasn't sure which end was bigger. Put it in the block to remove.... nope. Flipped it over to install - they popped right out. |
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Posted: 9/24/2018 2:48:11 PM EDT
[#46]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
And just to add... You can't assume all FSBs are installed the same way. The blocks from Brownells, Andersons, etc. are cut so that you place the FSB in one way to remove pins and the other way to install. Two weeks ago I was changing to a rail and needed to remove one. Looking at the pins I wasn't sure which end was bigger. Put it in the block to remove.... nope. Flipped it over to install - they popped right out. you need to drill another pair of holes if you want to do that i just skip it now and take it to a gunsmith if i get one of those if you have a front sight block that has a 2 on it, just fucking run, or throw it away from you in disgust. the pins are probably installed backwards |
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Posted: 9/24/2018 2:53:04 PM EDT
[#47]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
the dumb orange hockey puck from brownells won't let you remove pins that are installed backwards you need to drill another pair of holes if you want to do that i just skip it now and take it to a gunsmith if i get one of those if you have a front sight block that has a 2 on it, just fucking run, or throw it away from you in disgust. the pins are probably installed backwards Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
And just to add... You can't assume all FSBs are installed the same way. The blocks from Brownells, Andersons, etc. are cut so that you place the FSB in one way to remove pins and the other way to install. Two weeks ago I was changing to a rail and needed to remove one. Looking at the pins I wasn't sure which end was bigger. Put it in the block to remove.... nope. Flipped it over to install - they popped right out. you need to drill another pair of holes if you want to do that i just skip it now and take it to a gunsmith if i get one of those if you have a front sight block that has a 2 on it, just fucking run, or throw it away from you in disgust. the pins are probably installed backwards |
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Posted: 9/24/2018 2:58:57 PM EDT
[#48]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
the dumb orange hockey puck from brownells won't let you remove pins that are installed backwards you need to drill another pair of holes if you want to do that i just skip it now and take it to a gunsmith if i get one of those if you have a front sight block that has a 2 on it, just fucking run, or throw it away from you in disgust. the pins are probably installed backwards Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
And just to add... You can't assume all FSBs are installed the same way. The blocks from Brownells, Andersons, etc. are cut so that you place the FSB in one way to remove pins and the other way to install. Two weeks ago I was changing to a rail and needed to remove one. Looking at the pins I wasn't sure which end was bigger. Put it in the block to remove.... nope. Flipped it over to install - they popped right out. you need to drill another pair of holes if you want to do that i just skip it now and take it to a gunsmith if i get one of those if you have a front sight block that has a 2 on it, just fucking run, or throw it away from you in disgust. the pins are probably installed backwards 
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Posted: 9/24/2018 3:14:12 PM EDT
[#49]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Many of my Colts have been/are 2 marked. I think that's more so who drilled the taper pins than who made the FSB. Then again I don't use blocks....I've always just layed the barrel and carpet, propped the pins level and smacked away. Now that I think about it the only thing I even use a smith for is barrel lathe work. Other than that I prefer doing everything myself. Same with my vehicles ... with the ease of drilling taper pins and no idea how any of the retailers source their barrels (if it's not made in-house) it could be anyone really i always attempt it myself, but without wanting to risk getting mad at the barrel and block and chop them into little sections to use as fucking beads on a necklace used to warn other horribly-assembled parts away, i'll just send it out now |
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Posted: 9/24/2018 3:20:47 PM EDT
[#50]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
yeah, i know all the B 2 blocks aren't to blame, and i don't know who made those barrels. i've had a few from DS, Anderson, even had a colt barrel with one backwards and i have no idea how it happened with the ease of drilling taper pins and no idea how any of the retailers source their barrels (if it's not made in-house) it could be anyone really i always attempt it myself, but without wanting to risk getting mad at the barrel and block and chop them into little sections to use as fucking beads on a necklace used to warn other horribly-assembled parts away, i'll just send it out now Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Many of my Colts have been/are 2 marked. I think that's more so who drilled the taper pins than who made the FSB. Then again I don't use blocks....I've always just layed the barrel and carpet, propped the pins level and smacked away. Now that I think about it the only thing I even use a smith for is barrel lathe work. Other than that I prefer doing everything myself. Same with my vehicles ... with the ease of drilling taper pins and no idea how any of the retailers source their barrels (if it's not made in-house) it could be anyone really i always attempt it myself, but without wanting to risk getting mad at the barrel and block and chop them into little sections to use as fucking beads on a necklace used to warn other horribly-assembled parts away, i'll just send it out now  I've been there with at least 1 barrel that comes to mind. One of my BCM SOCOM barrels had a loose index pin that would pop out with any torque applied to the barrel nut. I was about ready to throw that fucker in a chop saw by the last attempt. I don't even remember what I did with it, but I know its gone lol
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