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Posted: 2/17/2021 6:55:28 PM EDT
[#1]
I use some of the lubes and methods above BUT I've had a failure to fire hunting on a very cold day. That leads me to believe the firing pin and channel should be dry of oil?
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Posted: 2/17/2021 7:08:57 PM EDT
[#2]
No, you just need to use a quality oil that won’t gum up in the cold. What were you using?
There is no legitimate reason an ar should fail to fire on any day in Kentucky when we have members in Alaska. |
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Posted: 2/17/2021 7:10:52 PM EDT
[#3]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Wetter is better. Yep CherryBalmz But I do lube the interior of the BCG and bolt tail because it can help prevent corrosion. If I am shooting a lot over a couple of days it won't matter until the gun gets put away long term. |
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Posted: 2/17/2021 7:14:36 PM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Had it fail on me around 0 to -5* in my ruger american. It gummed up enough to cause light strikes. I don't think it would be an issue in a centerfire. If you use the original G96, you need to get ALL of the old petroleum oil off the metal. G96 complete gun treatment is plasticizer based and will get gooey if you mix it with Break Free in the right circumstances. I think the G96 CLP is petroleum based and doesn’t have this issue. |
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Posted: 2/17/2021 11:21:25 PM EDT
[#5]
That happened so long ago on a very cold Ky. day and I don't remember the oil I used or if the rifle was unused for months or if it was cleaned recently. Have since used Break-Free but I still leave the firing pin clean but dry.
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Posted: 2/18/2021 7:59:07 AM EDT
[#6]
Always used Break Free CLP. A light coat on everything and a drop or two on any contact surface or moving part. Never had any function issues. Operated between roughly freezing to >100 degrees. Yeah, you gotta shake it, but I believe the teflon particles only settle in suspension and, unless you over oil, stay pretty well put on a surface.
Mind you, I'm neither a lubricity expert nor a chemist. Just an ex grunt and armorer so I would take it as anecdotal. |
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Posted: 2/18/2021 9:32:43 AM EDT
[#7]
They took the Teflon out of CLP two decades ago. Shaking it does distribute the solvents.
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Posted: 2/18/2021 11:52:59 AM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted: They took the Teflon out of CLP two decades ago. Shaking it does distribute the solvents. Lol, well that tells you how long I've had the same jug of CLP. Now I'm sad that it's almost gone. |
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Posted: 2/22/2021 6:57:52 PM EDT
[#9]
Light coat of oil (usually CLP or MPRO-7) on entire bolt carrier, bolt, and inside upper receiver.
Rails get a heavier application of oil. I have found that a little lube on the places that don't even need it makes it easier to clean. |
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Posted: 2/22/2021 9:45:25 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I’ve drenched my BCG in Slip for years and never had an issue. The excess will either burn off or spray off. Sorry, don't want to wear a rain coat while shooting.....  |
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Posted: 2/23/2021 3:18:30 PM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted: WD40 is a cleaner, nothing more. Grease is great, until it's -20F and your gun deadlines. Several of us did the Cola Warrior Northwest in Idaho a couple of weeks ago using Winter Balm from our sponsor Cherry Balmz with no issues....well issues from guns not functioning.  I’ve used the Cherry Balmz on rifles used for classes, qualifications, range days and Cola Warrior runs...all without rifle function issues. Doesn’t include the loose screw behind the G trigger. 
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Posted: 2/23/2021 6:04:51 PM EDT
[#12]
At the range remove BCG, spray the working end with CLP sling it off with a vigorous wind milling motion like the guitarist from The Who, replace BCG.
Not even joking. "Just lube the rails, place a drop on the cam pin..." wtf ever man. It ain't rocket surgery. |
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Posted: 2/23/2021 6:51:22 PM EDT
[#13]
At reassembly after cleaning:
1. drop on the spring under the extractor 2. drop or two on the gas rings 3. drop or two on the large diameter part of the bolt in front of the gas rings 4. drops, several, down inside the carrier where the bolt fits into 5. drops, two or three, where the cam pin fits into the bolt/carrier 6. drop or two on the firing pin 7. drop in the hole for the firing pin retaining pin before I insert the pin 8. drop or two on the carrier rails where they contact the receiver 9. drop or two on the bolt lugs before inserting the bolt into the receiver Not to mention the oil I put on the charging handle channel and inside the upper receiver before I insert the bolt. Yeah, oil runs out sometimes. No, the rifles run fine. I won't be wearing any of mine out in this lifetime. Confessions of a compulsive over oiler. |
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Posted: 2/23/2021 8:26:38 PM EDT
[#14]
Anything that is a moving part gets wet. More movement more wetness is needed. Friiction is an enemy of metal. It can be as bad or worse than corrosion. Also more wetness less corrosion.
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Posted: 3/8/2021 6:12:21 PM EDT
[#15]
After my trip to the range I disassembled my AR, Came across these markings on the underside of my BCG. How can I repair these gouges ? Why would my hammer cause this ? Is this normal bolt wear? Shouldn’t gouge especially since the markings are perpendicular? Carrier Marks
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Posted: 3/10/2021 11:15:17 AM EDT
[#16]
gunsmith39
No need to repair as it won't hurt anything. I've had a couple do that when new but it usually stops pretty soon as everything gets worn in. You could check the surfaces on the hammer where it makes contact for any sharp edges or burs and smooth with some 400 grit sandpaper. |
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Posted: 3/29/2021 11:54:25 PM EDT
[#17]
Per bigbore:
One drop on the top of the charging handle One drop on the body of the bolt One drop on the gas rings One drop on the firing pin One drop on the cam pin Two drops on the bottom rails of the carrier Two drops on the top of the carrier "That's it. That's all I ever use, whether I'm plinking at the range for a few minutes, or an all day carbine class. 99% of my shooting any more is suppressed, and that is still all the lube I have ever needed. I don't lube in the receiver, I don't lube my buffer/spring." |
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