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Which BCG lube method? (Page 1 of 2)
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Posted: 7/15/2020 10:06:35 PM EST
[Last Edit: 1/20/2021 10:53:17 PM EST by j3_]
Getting ready to change into someone more comfortable. Name changes coming.
Link Posted: 7/15/2020 10:15:24 PM EST
[Last Edit: 7/15/2020 10:17:38 PM EST by ScoutH57]
They both pretty much say put a couple drops of CLP on it with different wording?


What in the world are you asking? Had me all curious if they had something dramatically different.


I just use a spray bottle of CLP or Lucas oil. Or leftover 5w30
Link Posted: 7/15/2020 10:38:05 PM EST
I'm guessing this is the difference that is being asked about.

FN:
Notice! Do not apply lubricant to the gas rings on the bolt or the interior of the bolt carrier. These components are not to be lubricated in any way.
Using lubrication in the gas system may damage the rifle and cause malfunctions.

Colt:
6. Generously lubricate cam pin hole, bolt rings and outside of the bolt body and a light coat on the extractor and pin.
7. Lightly lubricate charging handle and inner and outer surfaces of the bolt carrier. Generously lubricate sides and cam pin area of bolt carrier.

I lightly oil the bolt at the two spots where it makes contact and slides against the carrier. I thought I was running my rifle on the dry side but according to FN even my going light is to wet.

Link Posted: 7/16/2020 12:13:13 AM EST
WD40 in the chamber while on the range.
Link Posted: 7/16/2020 1:01:23 AM EST
Guess I've been doing it wrong this whole time because I soak the entire bcg and rub it all in really good with my fingers then I pop it in and cycle the action around to get it spread out real nice all around the inside. Then I go shoot it to spread the lube around to all the nooks and crannies. I never had a problem doing it like this.
Link Posted: 7/16/2020 3:47:01 AM EST
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p78CIdnkzNE
Link Posted: 7/16/2020 5:46:44 AM EST




Link Posted: 7/16/2020 6:13:56 AM EST
[Last Edit: 1/20/2021 10:53:36 PM EST by j3_]
Getting ready to change into someone more comfortable. Name changes coming.
Link Posted: 7/16/2020 6:38:58 AM EST
I’ve drenched my BCG in Slip for years and never had an issue.  The excess will either burn off or spray off.
Link Posted: 7/16/2020 6:59:55 AM EST
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By SirSqueeboo:
I’ve drenched my BCG in Slip for years and never had an issue.  The excess will either burn off or spray off.
View Quote

Link Posted: 7/16/2020 8:26:50 AM EST
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By SirSqueeboo:
I’ve drenched my BCG in Slip for years and never had an issue.  The excess will either burn off or spray off.
View Quote


I have been covering the bolt and firing pin with oil and then put it in the carrier. no problems yet and I don't have the build-up of carbon and fouling that has to be scraped off. scraping and grinding on pieces of a weapon doesn't appeal to me so I will continue putting oil on the bolt and everything else until results dictate I do otherwise.
Link Posted: 7/16/2020 9:39:23 AM EST
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History


Yes, this is the correct method to apply lubrication. The bolt carrier has 6 contact points: the 4 rails, the bottom where the hammer rides, and the cam pin. The bolt has 2 contact points: the center rail (the raised part of the bolt near the middle of the extractor), and the gas rings. The extractor has 1 contact point the springs.

All you need to do is lube those points and you're good to go. The manuals tend to be a "stupid" proof where they just tell people to lube the entire bolt carrier or bolt and not to over lube anything so nothing can collect. It's a sure bet that you'll likely touch the mentioned areas listed above, even in small parts and you'll be good to go.

Also remember in the military you get CLP. They just tell you to wipe everything down with it, and simply wipe it off. They don't talk about friction or lube areas. Back when they had LSA, they would get into a little more detail with it but the problem is you had to use solvent, and generally what happens is you leave some solvent behind that evaporates and leave areas unprotected. With CLP, even if you missed spots, you left behind something that isn't totally destructive.
Link Posted: 7/16/2020 12:40:18 PM EST
Wetter is better.
Link Posted: 7/16/2020 12:58:07 PM EST
motor pool method.  

submerge in oil drum, remove  shake place in rifle.
Link Posted: 7/16/2020 7:39:25 PM EST
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Tigwelder1971:
Wetter is better.
View Quote



Yeah buddy.
Link Posted: 7/18/2020 8:53:31 AM EST
[Last Edit: 7/18/2020 8:57:23 AM EST by dalle0001]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Gregory_K:
motor pool method.  

submerge in oil drum, remove  shake place in rifle.
View Quote


Yes, this is a great way to do it as well. If you have a mason jar, you can fill it with oil, then you dip the front half of the carrier into it. Let it sit for a minute so all the oil gets into the carrier, then you take it out and let it drip for a bit and you shake it. You got a very wet bolt carrier that's ready to go.

I have seen several people do this method of oiling their bolt carrier. However, you need to shoot fairly soon as the oil can ooze into the lower and gum up after some time.

For me though I don't like applying oil all over the bolt carrier. I like applying grease to just the wear points and have gone into all day use for classes I had taken. In one case I got someone on a grease brand I like after they asked how I am able to have a functioning rifle while others had to put oil mid day.If you lube it right with a good quality lube (oil or grease) you can have a functioning rifle and shoot all day long in comparison to CLP method of wiping down the entire carrler/bolt surface.
Link Posted: 7/18/2020 1:00:40 PM EST
I’ve never understood why FN doesn’t want lube on the bolt or inside the carrier. I’m sure that the guys that wrote the manual are way smarter than me, but I like to generously lube the bolt, cam pin, and carrier rails before I reassemble everything. Once the BCG is assembled, I place a large drop of lube on both the front and rear of the cam pin. Lastly, I lube the gas rings by placing a drop of lube through each vent hole. After I put the gun back together, I wipe off any excess with the bolt closed. The guns are ready to shoot the crap out of them and they clean right up when the time comes.
Link Posted: 7/18/2020 1:54:28 PM EST
This is what CherryBalmz says:

“Gas rings and bolt tail: Leave dry, do not lube - the gas is direct, under pressure, and far too hot for any lube to endure long enough to matter, and the friction surfaces are not large enough to be significant in the total amount of friction surface in the gun to matter, if everything else is properly lubed.”

Source.

I go with the FN/CB method. I do not lube the rings or tail. I grease the bolt, cam pin, rails on the BCG and rails inside the upper. Done. Well, a bit of oil on the CH as well.
Link Posted: 7/18/2020 4:26:36 PM EST
Guess I've been doing it wrong this whole time because I soak the entire bcg and rub it all in really good with my fingers then I pop it in and cycle the action around to get it spread out real nice all around the inside. Then I go shoot it to spread the lube around to all the nooks and crannies. I never had a problem doing it like this.
View Quote

Same, until it doesn't work I'm not changing anything.
Link Posted: 7/18/2020 6:40:54 PM EST
[Last Edit: 2/22/2021 8:48:07 PM EST by Cressida]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By BIGSHOOTER414:
WD40 in the chamber while on the range.
View Quote


Good luck with that.....
I have had to work on may firearms that came into the shop, with the actions stuck,
and it was always someone who said "I don't understand, I keep it lubed with WD40".

Every one of them freed up after an over night bath in acetone.
Link Posted: 7/18/2020 7:56:08 PM EST
WD40 is a cleaner, nothing more.

Grease is great, until it's -20F and your gun deadlines.


Link Posted: 7/18/2020 9:28:22 PM EST
Thank god I live in Texas, and only see +30 degrees temps 1 or 2 times a winter.
Haven't seen anything in the negative temp range since I moved here from the Great White North.
Link Posted: 7/18/2020 10:04:49 PM EST
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Cressida:
Thank god I live in Texas, and only see +30 degrees temps 1 or 2 times a winter.
Haven't seen anything in the negative temp range since I moved here from the Great White North.
View Quote

Generally short lived here and honestly, the older that I get the less inclined I feel about shooting in subzero temps.

Outside of deer or coyote hunting I ride my Lazyboy on those days.
Link Posted: 7/18/2020 11:19:15 PM EST
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Tigwelder1971:
Wetter is better.
View Quote


Yep. Just use the proper lube and your good to go. It's simple
Link Posted: 7/19/2020 4:45:11 PM EST
[Last Edit: 7/19/2020 4:46:43 PM EST by 77Bronc]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By chubbs878:


I have been covering the bolt and firing pin with oil and then put it in the carrier. no problems yet and I don't have the build-up of carbon and fouling that has to be scraped off. scraping and grinding on pieces of a weapon doesn't appeal to me so I will continue putting oil on the bolt and everything else until results dictate I do otherwise.
View Quote



This, I lube the bolt very well, use SLIP 2000

Carrier with SLIP 2000 grease and grease on the BC underside rails, cam pin

Been doing this for many years, never an issue.

Link Posted: 7/19/2020 4:45:16 PM EST
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Tigwelder1971:

Generally short lived here and honestly, the older that I get the less inclined I feel about shooting in subzero temps.

Outside of deer or coyote hunting I ride my Lazyboy on those days.
View Quote



When I was a kid I loved going out in sub zero temps.  Most people don't go out then so I liked not having to contend with a bunch of people & I just liked cold weather.  If you don't have the right gear though it's not so good.  Now that I'm older & my body wants to fight me even when its nice out, going out in temps even in the teens makes me wince.
Link Posted: 7/20/2020 6:02:06 PM EST
We had all our ARs out when we hit -50f.  No issues at all.  Tw25b grease.  10.5" through 20" uppers.  A buddies AR greased in the same manner, but with Tetra grease, was a single shot until the 4th or 5th round.  No jams, but the carrier was too sluggish to strip the next round.
Link Posted: 7/20/2020 9:22:03 PM EST
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By RULE762:
We had all our ARs out when we hit -50f.  No issues at all.  Tw25b grease.  10.5" through 20" uppers.  A buddies AR greased in the same manner, but with Tetra grease, was a single shot until the 4th or 5th round.  No jams, but the carrier was too sluggish to strip the next round.
View Quote

@ - 50F my balls would be in my shirt pocket.

I've had my carriers on my 1100s do that same thing, cycling like it was in mud while deer hunting in extreme cold/freezing rain.  I blamed Rem Oil for that shit.

Never tried Tw25b on my ARs, use it on pistol slide rails though.

I'm sure there are greases rated to suit, EP Moly is what I run in the warmer months along with G96. I may have to up my grease game some.

Link Posted: 7/21/2020 12:53:18 PM EST
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By socommatthews:
This is what CherryBalmz says:

"Gas rings and bolt tail: Leave dry, do not lube - the gas is direct, under pressure, and far too hot for any lube to endure long enough to matter, and the friction surfaces are not large enough to be significant in the total amount of friction surface in the gun to matter, if everything else is properly lubed."

Source.

I go with the FN/CB method. I do not lube the rings or tail. I grease the bolt, cam pin, rails on the BCG and rails inside the upper. Done. Well, a bit of oil on the CH as well.
View Quote

I've been using CB for the last couple of years and have been very happy. Application is fairly easy:


Link Posted: 7/22/2020 5:33:44 PM EST
I’ve used Mobile 1 full synthetic for more than 10 years. Lube any where there is metal to metal contact. I never cared for CLP, it seemed to gum up real quick.
Link Posted: 7/22/2020 5:40:12 PM EST
surprised FN would state that about the bolt and gas rings.  To those who use grease, do you put oil on the rings?  not sure if grease would migrate into the rings.
Link Posted: 7/22/2020 5:46:02 PM EST
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Grumpy5:
I’ve used Mobile 1 full synthetic for more than 10 years. Lube any where there is metal to metal contact. I never cared for CLP, it seemed to gum up real quick.
View Quote


That was my experience as well.  I've heard the newer stuff is supposed to be better, but IDK.  When you have to shake the bottle to get all the white stuff that is supposed to be either the L or P in CLP you have to wonder how it's going to keep from separating like that after it's on the weapon.  First pkg I sent my kid in basic was weapons cleaning stuff.
Link Posted: 7/22/2020 7:22:44 PM EST
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By 11C1P:


That was my experience as well.  I've heard the newer stuff is supposed to be better, but IDK.  When you have to shake the bottle to get all the white stuff that is supposed to be either the L or P in CLP you have to wonder how it's going to keep from separating like that after it's on the weapon.  First pkg I sent my kid in basic was weapons cleaning stuff.
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By 11C1P:
Originally Posted By Grumpy5:
I’ve used Mobile 1 full synthetic for more than 10 years. Lube any where there is metal to metal contact. I never cared for CLP, it seemed to gum up real quick.


That was my experience as well.  I've heard the newer stuff is supposed to be better, but IDK.  When you have to shake the bottle to get all the white stuff that is supposed to be either the L or P in CLP you have to wonder how it's going to keep from separating like that after it's on the weapon.  First pkg I sent my kid in basic was weapons cleaning stuff.

Synthetic CLP, it rocks.
Link Posted: 7/22/2020 7:24:14 PM EST
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By kymarkh:
surprised FN would state that about the bolt and gas rings.  To those who use grease, do you put oil on the rings?  not sure if grease would migrate into the rings.
View Quote

I do a light coat of grease on the rings outside of freezing temps.
Link Posted: 7/23/2020 12:32:59 AM EST
Originally Posted By Tigwelder1971:
Wetter is better.
View Quote

Originally Posted By recon:


Yep. Just use the proper lube and your good to go. It's simple
View Quote


Sounds like what I told my wife last night

Getting back to the topic, I use one pre moistened sheet of Break Free CLP for all my AR15 BCG and upper receiver lubrication needs after I'm done cleaning. Gun runs like a sewing machine after that.

I've got a tray of about a couple dozen containers of cleaning and lubricant products I've amassed over the years. I've almost always gravitate back to Break Free CLP. Just ordered a gallon of Break Free CLP from Brownells to replace the supply I had which lasted me a long while.
Link Posted: 7/23/2020 12:51:19 AM EST
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By RULE762:
We had all our ARs out when we hit -50f.  No issues at all.  Tw25b grease.  10.5" through 20" uppers.  A buddies AR greased in the same manner, but with Tetra grease, was a single shot until the 4th or 5th round.  No jams, but the carrier was too sluggish to strip the next round.
View Quote

Many years ago RCMP tested a bunch of firearms lubes at (IIRC) -40 degrees. TW25b was one of the four that passed their testing. The others were FP10, Eezox and G96. This was before many of the now-popular products were on the market, but those at least are known to work in the cold.
Link Posted: 7/23/2020 9:09:50 AM EST
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Gamma762:

Many years ago RCMP tested a bunch of firearms lubes at (IIRC) -40 degrees. TW25b was one of the four that passed their testing. The others were FP10, Eezox and G96. This was before many of the now-popular products were on the market, but those at least are known to work in the cold.
View Quote

G96 really is near amazing IMO. I have been very happy with it.
Link Posted: 7/25/2020 1:40:42 PM EST
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Tigwelder1971:

G96 really is near amazing IMO. I have been very happy with it.
View Quote


Had it fail on me around 0 to -5* in my ruger american. It gummed up enough to cause light strikes.

I don't think it would be an issue in a centerfire.
Link Posted: 7/25/2020 2:58:11 PM EST
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By FritzTKatt:


Had it fail on me around 0 to -5* in my ruger american. It gummed up enough to cause light strikes.

I don't think it would be an issue in a centerfire.
View Quote View All Quotes
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Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By FritzTKatt:
Originally Posted By Tigwelder1971:

G96 really is near amazing IMO. I have been very happy with it.


Had it fail on me around 0 to -5* in my ruger american. It gummed up enough to cause light strikes.

I don't think it would be an issue in a centerfire.

Surprised to hear that. Shotgun and AR use it has been great IME. Never had it gum up due to cold or dirty guns.

Original is rated to like -50F, synthetic to -75ish.
Link Posted: 8/7/2020 9:16:43 AM EST
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Tigwelder1971:

Surprised to hear that. Shotgun and AR use it has been great IME. Never had it gum up due to cold or dirty guns.

Original is rated to like -50F, synthetic to -75ish.
View Quote


Yeah, but we are talking about a rimfire in this case. At first I thought it was the ammo, but after doing a half dozen fail-to-fires and getting pissed I didn't get this big old fox squirrel, I picked up the couple rounds I could out of the snow, reloaded, and tried shooting more. Gun was bricked. Went home, warmed it up, and it fired those rounds.

I cleaned the excess oil off the firing pin and haven't had an issue since.

Wonder how it will work this year with a 10/22 clone. It cycles in normal weather fine using SV and a silencer, but has a pretty high failure rate without the can. Runs HV any which way. It's a pretty dirty gun so I keep it lubed up. All that oil may not work well in the cold.
Link Posted: 8/7/2020 9:54:16 PM EST
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By FlamingDragon:
Guess I've been doing it wrong this whole time because I soak the entire bcg and rub it all in really good with my fingers then I pop it in and cycle the action around to get it spread out real nice all around the inside. Then I go shoot it to spread the lube around to all the nooks and crannies. I never had a problem doing it like this.
View Quote


The downside of all the extra lube is that it can gum up faster if you don't clean it often. If you lube only the contact points it'll last longer without cleaning
Link Posted: 8/7/2020 10:46:40 PM EST
I’ve been very happy with Slip2000 EWG on the BCG.
Link Posted: 8/28/2020 4:44:19 AM EST
[Last Edit: 8/28/2020 4:46:27 AM EST by bossco14]
I’ve been using this Wilson combat grease and greasing all wear points only. Works great.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x0dGQ3MDN-Y&feature=share
Link Posted: 8/28/2020 6:12:21 AM EST
I guess I run mine quite a bit wetter than those recommendations.

Oil on the bolt everywhere one piece touches another or the carrier touches the upper receiver.  The oil runs out of the upper/lower while it's lying in the gun safe.  Amazing I guess, that they still work at the range.  

And, no more than I fire in a range trip the oil is still burnt off parts of the bolt.
Link Posted: 8/28/2020 6:31:14 AM EST
wtf, you're supposed to lube the bcg?
Link Posted: 8/28/2020 9:40:00 PM EST
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By bossco14:
I’ve been using this Wilson combat grease and greasing all wear points only. Works great.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x0dGQ3MDN-Y&feature=share
View Quote


Not using Wilson's but firm believer of grease.
Actually using an industrial high pressure moly grease,
and also cherry balmz.
Link Posted: 10/27/2020 4:31:13 PM EST

Mixed grease and Mobil 1 synthetic oil 50/50.. more or less. It still flows like oil but is kind of grease-like in its properties in that it doesn't evaporate, blow off and tends to stay there longer than 'normal' oil.
Link Posted: 11/6/2020 4:17:05 PM EST
Wet it down!!  Any excess will be removed by the 2nd or 3rd shot.
Link Posted: 11/6/2020 10:52:10 PM EST
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By socommatthews:
This is what CherryBalmz says:

“Gas rings and bolt tail: Leave dry, do not lube - the gas is direct, under pressure, and far too hot for any lube to endure long enough to matter, and the friction surfaces are not large enough to be significant in the total amount of friction surface in the gun to matter, if everything else is properly lubed.”

Source.

I go with the FN/CB method. I do not lube the rings or tail. I grease the bolt, cam pin, rails on the BCG and rails inside the upper. Done. Well, a bit of oil on the CH as well.
View Quote


This is the product and method that I use
Link Posted: 11/7/2020 12:24:09 PM EST
[Last Edit: 11/7/2020 12:24:46 PM EST by AS556]
I will continue to lube the gas rings like I always have. I have a drawer full of Gucci lubricants but I always go back to Breakfree CLP. I've never had a single problem using breakfree even shooting 500 rounds in a day.

I do use Cherrybalmz on my NiB bolts and 1911 frames etc.
Link Posted: 11/7/2020 12:35:12 PM EST
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By RULE762:
We had all our ARs out when we hit -50f.  No issues at all.  Tw25b grease.  10.5" through 20" uppers.  A buddies AR greased in the same manner, but with Tetra grease, was a single shot until the 4th or 5th round.  No jams, but the carrier was too sluggish to strip the next round.
View Quote


I like tw25b as well. Regular oil tends to disappear quickly in the dry az heat.
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Which BCG lube method? (Page 1 of 2)
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