Haha alright guys, I got another noob question. Bet you haven't heard this one before. I only have irons on my AR at the moment (first AR) and I want to become proficient in shooting with just iron sights. I've been experimenting a bit at the range with the different adjustments and I feel like the elevation is spot on (front sight). My question is, does the windage adjustment (rear sight) only depend on if there's actually wind, or does head position/shouldering actually play a role in where you line up your back sight along its axis? If head position doesn't play a role, and there is no wind, shouldn't the back sight be kept perfectly in the middle? If head position/shouldering does play a role, how do you account for different shooting positions (standing, prone, etc)? Should the rifle be completely straight when shooting it (ideally?) or is it normal for it to be slanted slightly in either direction? Soo many questions..

Im using the magbus MBUS and at the moment, I have the rear site completely centered (i think). Im planning on going to the range tomorrow to shoot and adjust at 25 yards. I just want to know that if I shoot and I'm off target, whether it is the sights or I that need adjustment. I don't plan on shooting at more than 30-50 yards consistently and I just wanna be able to hit stuff accurately around that range.

There are lots of factors that can make your left/right difference between the rear and front sights off. Things such as - hand guard not perfectly aligned with upper receiver when clamped to barrel nut, barrel extension and receiver shoulder not being perpendicular to the bore, clamping force differences between rear sight and front, handguard center axis not being parallel with barrel bore center axis. You should watch some videos on zeroing sights on a rifle so you understand exactly what the bullet does at what distance compared to where you are aiming. Also, as long as you are looking through the aperture in the rear sight to sight in the front, your face position does not matter. That is the concept behind the rear aperture. I tend to set the sights up so that at 100 yards the point of impact is right at the top of the front iron sight blade, and not being covered by the front sight blade. good luck!

See above in bold. Keep notes as you zero, refine as you increase distance and - when you have your zero - write it down in terms of clicks/which direction from a centered or "mechanical" zero of the sight. Remember that it takes twice as many clicks to accompliish the same move of the bullet strike at 25yds as it does at 50.

This is basic marksmanship stuff but ya gotta start sometime. Now go lie down on the living room carpet & practice dry-fire at that electrical socket on the wall across the room.

The windage adjustment isn't actually for wind, at least on modern arms. It's to adjust the lateral impact of the rounds from the point of aim. It should start out centered before zeroing. Head position should also remain consistent.

I would not zero a weapon if there's a strong wind, btw.

Thank you for all the help everyone. I took everything into consideration and am looking forward to zeroing my irons.

If you can attend an Appleseed event/training weekend - DO IT!  No better fundamental marksmanship (for iron sights or scopes) out there for the price.

And, eye position behind the rear sight (or scope) is always important.  Nose to the charging handle - the reason for that is to help you develop/get a consistent eye position behind the rear sight.  If your eye position changes then bullet impact on the target changes.  Even happens with a scope.  BTDT.

for the distances stated i would just maintain a consistent sight picture (as the sights look) while you zero

you'll adjust the rear sight according to the impact on the target, no real need to adjust according to wind blowing left or right

wind won't meaningfully effect your shot group at the distances you stated. the only people that really use rear sight adjustment are position shooters, i.e. service rifle competitions

i wouldn't read into it if i were you

thanks for the advice man; yea ive been getting pretty good groups at 25 yards by just keeping everything consistent once the rear was adjusted.

don't be scared to stretch it out man. if you can get to a range with more distance, do it

you'll probably enjoy it

Thanks, I tend to like going shooting outdoors better! Out there, I can usually get around 50 yards, though i've been finding it very difficult to tell where my shots are landing..? Might need to invest in some steel plates to get some auditory verification. Is that how most people do it?

And then, one day:

inexpensive spotting scope

tripod

this is the exact setup my students use for spotting rounds and calling wind under 400 yards