I have some bonus bucks at Primary Arms and I'm wanting to spend it on my pistol build. I have all these parts in but have not assembled them yet. This build will be a truck gun/bedside gun. I have another 16" AR in 5.56 for use on our farm and a .308 AR-10 for hunting. I'm excited about my first pistol build.

What would you add?

Lower:

Anderson Manufacturing Ghost Lower
SBA3 FDE Brace
Aero LPK with Magpul MOE FDE Grip
Anderson Trigger Group
Magpul BAD Lever

Upper:

Anderson Manufacturing Upper Receiver
Rosco Manufacturing Bloodline 10.5" Barrel
BCM BCG
AT3 Tactical 12" M-Lok handguard
KAK Slim Flash Can
Expo Arms Gas Block and Tube

Sights:

Magpul BUIS in FDE
Primary Arms Red Dot

Weapon Light:

Inforce WML in FDE

Edit: I mistakenly put Anderson lpk instead of aero lpk with Anderson trigger

Ditch the BAD Lever and never even think of using it ever again.


I would say a good sling considering I dont know what the bucks are or what you can get with it.
Get a weapon light made of metal

Not to rain on your parade but I’d not use Anderson anything. Aero as a minimum.

If that’s already set in stone I’d say metal sights (Troy, MI CRS, MBUS pro), a sure fire scout light, and an Aimpoint.

Dump the flash can and just get a longer barrel with an A2. Also, delete the Bad lever.  Nothing wrong Anderson lowers.  If it's in spec, it works exactly the same as any other lower that is also in spec.

FPNI

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I’d upgrade the trigger.

FPNI

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ETA
You can also get the regular paddle 1000lm version and a STL-69161 backplate (ON/MOMentary/OFF) from elsewhere if you would like a remote switch backplate that you can turn off if needed

ETA-X2 oops

I'm liking the sling idea.

Keep 'em coming.

I bought a BAD Lever for every rifle. First time I went out and actually shot a bit I changed my mind and took them off.

Good sling with some good swivels and mounts or QD cups

Parts brand bashing aside, you are missing a sling.

New trigger
Dump BAD lever
Get a sling
Dump the flash can for a flash hider and either get a shorter rail, or a longer barrel.  One of my early builds was the exact same way.  10.5 inch barrel with a 12 inch rail and flash can.   It looks cool, but it is wasted overall length.

Overall I think your list looks fine. I have a variety of uppers and lowers with some more expensive and less expensive like Anderson/ PSA and have never noticed a difference.  I have money but am a poor because I won't spend extra money on what I see as frivolous.  And I have kids  Barrels, BCGs and good triggers deserve extra expense and maybe rails within reason.  Here is what I would add or change over time to make the pistol fit MY needs/wants.

I also do not use a bad lever.  I do use a Seekins enhanced bolt catch with a bigger paddle but not huge which can cause accidental bolt release.  I chose Seekins because the price is reasonable and it is just a dang bolt catch for less than $15 Seekins Bolt Catch.

I have never used the WML light but have a Streamlight RM-1 $100 and a Streamlight 600 $270.  Both are great.
I like a hand/ finger stop on mine and run a cheap version of the Karve.  I also put M-LOK rail covers on to help with heat build up.  I like the BCM version so far.

I use the MFT Engage grip.  It is a decent price, fits my hand and puts it in a good position for shooting. YMMV

I upgrade triggers on my precision ARs.  I use a Mil-Spec on my pistol.  Unless you are doing competitions, the difference is not worth the cost.  Practice will improve your trigger manipulation.  I also assume if I am using a pistol AR it is HD CQB and I do not want a lighter trigger for that purpose. 6-8 lbs is fine IMHO.

Within reasonable price I will upgrade the charge handle.  I own a version of the Radian Raptor and it is my favorite.  I also own a Mil-Spec with enhanced release handle and a Gas Buster cause it came with an upper and like them better than Mil-Spec.  I do have Mil-Spec on others and it functions fine too.

If the PA RDS works for you, run it.  I recently purchased the 30mm SLX as a less expensive clone version of my issued Aimpoint M68 to go with my clone issued M4.  It zeroed and shot great out to 300. I will change the battery every year since it is a 14k battery life.  On my pistol I have the Holosun 403R with 100k hour battery life.  I really love this RDS and have many rounds and lots of practice with it. I will change the battery every 4-5 years.  Any SHTF/ HD builds I do in the future will probably have this or the 503 on them.
ETA; I have 2 Viking Tactics 2 point slings which I also ran issued.  Great sling.  The Vickers / Blue Force Gear looks good too.  I also forgot one of my favorite additions is the QD lower receiver end plate.  I have 3 different manufacturers and like them all.  Makes carry and reloads more efficient.

Post a picture. Most of us on here cant read.

I started putting it together last night but didn't finish before I went to bed.

I'll finish around lunch today and post a picture.

I do plan on getting a sling like was suggested and I still need to get a hand stop and rail covers for heat, and will look into a metal light.

Thanks for all the suggestions.

Do what you want, but I love the BAD lever. I have one on every AR I own.

I'd install a QD socket on the front of the handguard, a QD end plate and a Magpul MS4 sling.

Strike Industries extended latch is a wonderful upgrade.

A flat wire buffer spring is nice.

Trigger upgrade is a must for any AR. I haven't tried the LaRue MBT trigger yet, but I'm going to try one on my next build.

Dump the Anderson garbage. Use metal sights like MagPul PRO or Troy. Dump the China red-dot and get an MRO, Steiner, or Aimpoint.

I definitely need a QD socket on the handguard. Figured I'd just use the QD point on the SBA3, but may pull off the buffer and throw on a QD end plate too eventually.

Opinions on it going in the M-Lok slots vs. picatinny rail on the top? Not sure it really matters.

Also, I love the BAD lever and will keep it. Not sure why it gets a bad reputation around here.

Ditch the Magpul BAD lever and the Anderson LPK and get a better quality LPK.

The flash can is dopey too, I'd rather have any flash hider on the market.

I'm right handed and put my QD socket on the front left side of my handguards. I don't know why people don't like the BAD lever either. Then again there's those people that don't know which bathroom to use too.

I have a flash can on my 7.5" AR and it was a necessary addition. It does exactly what it claims to do and without it, it's unbearable for anyone around. A suppressor is the best flash hider in my opinion.

I thought the BAD lever was a neat idea, but it is not a standard AR item. If I got used to it every AR I used would need this non-standard option. I want to be able to pick up any AR and know that it will always work the same. If I train with an option that does not exist on an AR, then what good did it do?

If you like it, then more power to you...just letting you know my reason.

Steve

Whoops. LPK is Aero and trigger was an Anderson I had lying around. Pretty good trigger to be honest.

I suppose he did already have a WML
But yes.
Pics OP

A good sling. Ferro/Edgar Sherman/HSP would be my suggestions.

If you want a BAD lever, get a BAD lever. I run one on every AR I own. Can I function an AR without one? Sure. Can I as fast? Well no that's what the bad lever is for. And I can still run an AR faster than an AK or SCAR or whatever the crap else you want to compare it to. That argument never really made sense to me.

Update:

Found a MS3 sling I had lying around and put it on the gun and I have an Odin Works light mount coming for a Fenix TK09 I’ve had on my shotgun for awhile that will find new life on this build. I’ll post pictures once it’s all installed :)

Keep the BAD Lever, train it to see how you get along with it, then keep or sell. - I love those friggen things.

On a 10.5", an actual Flash Hider should be way better - My 11.3 loved the EFAB.

I fucking love BAD levers.

And the Phase 5 EBR for the .308

My experience with Anderson has been hit and miss.  My first 3 builds have Anderson lowers.  The first 2 are excellent quality and compare equally to my Aero lowers other than color.  The Aero lowers are a shinier black that matches uppers better IMO.  The third Anderson I purchased recently because it was their new "Elite" version is horrid.  The pivot pin ears are too large and don't fit correctly on some uppers.  I guess they didn't remove enough material in the milling process.  The interior of the ears are good and the pin moves smoothly.  I really think Anderson like many other manufacturers right now are stretching their capabilities to the limit and cutting corners to make more product available.  Both of my great Andersons were purchased before 2020.

The out of spec Anderson is my spare lower that a Franklin Armory binary trigger lives in.

Forgot to update:

Lower:
Anderson Manufacturing Ghost Lower
Aero LPK with Magpul FDE Grip
Anderson Manufacturing Trigger Group
SBA3 Brace in FDE

Upper
Anderson Manufacturing Upper
Rosco Manufacturing 10.5" Bloodline Barrel
KAK Slim Flash Can
BCM BCG
BCM MOD 4 Charging Handle
AT3 12" M-Lok Handguard
Magpul Rail Covers

Optic/Sights
Old Primary Arms Red Dot
Magpul BUIS

Light
Fenix TK09 with Pressure Switch and Mount

Nothing wrong with Anderson except for some latent snobbery.

Strike Industries Extended Latch is a MUST HAVE for charging handle.

I have a BCM MOD4 charging handle, so I'm good

Looks solid.  Anderson is fine, I just don't like their barrels.  I'd save up for an Aimpoint to replace your PA red dot.  I have a PA Micro on my Buck Mark and it hasn't failed me yet, but I have a lot more confidence in my Aimpoint that I put on my HD gun.  You can find used ones for much less than retail on the EE.  They're as tough as can be and the battery life is perfect for a truck gun.

If it's an ongoing project I would upgrade the light, optic and trigger, in that order. Light or optic first is up to you really. I only put that order because personally I would trust that optic more than that light.

And if you're really looking to change things up down the line, a shorter rail and a standard flash hider is great on that barrel length, just don't put a muzzle brake on it.

I've run that light on my Remington 870 and it's held up to everything I've thrown at it. Light is a tank.

I'll likely upgrade the sight by adding a magnifier to it is all. I don't want to put a lot more $ into this build right now since I need more ammo (we had a break in a few years ago and I haven't been able to get back all that was stolen yet).

Definitely agree on the trigger. The trigger is a "nicer" milspec trigger (to me at least), but I'd love something lighter and crisper.

If I ever changed the handguard, it'd be for one I can put a suppressor underneath it.

Picatinny cup holder?

Looks good, OP!

Finally! An upgrade we can all support!

Thanks!