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Posted: 5/9/2022 5:04:11 PM EDT
[#1]
Measure the pin diameter on both sides so you know you are hitting it in the right direction. Support the bottom, hit the larger side of the pin with a large punch and big enough hammer.
If brute force is enough, pin will be moving on the first blow. We have a build-it-yourself forum too. |
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Posted: 5/9/2022 5:14:55 PM EDT
[#2]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Measure the pin diameter on both sides so you know you are hitting it in the right direction. Support the bottom, hit the larger side of the pin with a large punch and big enough hammer. If brute force is enough, pin will be moving on the first blow. We have a build-it-yourself forum too. Soo.... 1. Read 2. Secure Hammer 3. Whack In other words, not a big deal and just educate myself and go for it? |
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Posted: 5/9/2022 5:15:15 PM EDT
[#3]
As usual, its about having the right tools.
 How To Swap An A2 Front Sight For A Free Float Handguard |
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Posted: 5/9/2022 5:23:54 PM EDT
[#4]
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Posted: 5/9/2022 7:44:27 PM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Measure the pin diameter on both sides so you know you are hitting it in the right direction. Support the bottom, hit the larger side of the pin with a large punch and big enough hammer. If brute force is enough, pin will be moving on the first blow. We have a build-it-yourself forum too. Don't you want to hit it from the SMALLER side? The pin(s) are tappered so you want to drive it from the smaller side of the pin, because whacking on the larger side is only going to drive it like a wedge in further. Honestly if it were me, with the low price of barrels, uppers, complete uppers - I'd probably just buy a new upper, barrel & install your handdguard |
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Posted: 5/9/2022 8:15:12 PM EDT
[#6]
You can also simply cut the A Frame off with a hacksaw or Dremel, touch up the edges with a file to round it out, and then reblue with a touch up pen.
It's the crappier way to do it, but it can save you time and energy if you've got really stubborn pins and you don't care what it looks like because it'll be hidden under the handguard. |
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Posted: 5/9/2022 8:29:45 PM EDT
[#7]
I wouldnt say it's a crappier way to go. It makes for a very secure and low profile gas block.
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Posted: 5/9/2022 9:31:36 PM EDT
[#8]
I just dremeled the top off and put a two piece extended handguard over it.
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Posted: 5/9/2022 9:43:05 PM EDT
[#9]
I have one of these myself. But if I was to do it again I would have just put another gas block on and gotten the experience of replacing one.
It's more or less a bubba move, but not something to be ashamed of (so long as it's under a handguard). |
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Posted: 5/9/2022 11:37:22 PM EDT
[#10]
Is it a big deal? Yes. You need a lot of tools to convert from a traditional FSB to an MLOK gun.
Vise Roll pin punch for gas tube Mini sledge hammer Dremel and spray paint if you are going to re-use your gas block Clamshell or Midwest URR to support the receiver for the barrel nut Large torque wrench Barrel nut wrench Wrench for flash suppressor Geissele reaction rod or clamp barrel in vise for flash suppressor Fixture or bench block to support the FSB for taper pin work Small torque wrench for handguard screws |
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Posted: 5/10/2022 1:17:36 AM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Is it a big deal? Yes. You need a lot of tools to convert from a traditional FSB to an MLOK gun. Vise Roll pin punch for gas tube Mini sledge hammer Dremel and spray paint if you are going to re-use your gas block Clamshell or Midwest URR to support the receiver for the barrel nut Large torque wrench Barrel nut wrench Wrench for flash suppressor Geissele reaction rod or clamp barrel in vise for flash suppressor Fixture or bench block to support the FSB for taper pin work Small torque wrench for handguard screws Technically he could do a CasV MLok and not remove any of the barrel nut components and get rid of most of those tools.  Edit: or Dremel off the delta ring and spring, just leaving the barrel nut in place. Some handguards use it (Samson Evo for one). |
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Posted: 5/10/2022 9:52:09 AM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Measure the pin diameter on both sides so you know you are hitting it in the right direction. Support the bottom, hit the larger side of the pin with a large punch and big enough hammer. If brute force is enough, pin will be moving on the first blow. We have a build-it-yourself forum too. Smaller end for removal.  OP, it's a no brainer. EZPZ. Support/drift punches/ big damn hammer. I use a section of 5/8" round to shock them loose initially. Hit them like you mean it. |
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Posted: 5/10/2022 1:04:30 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Smaller end for removal. OP, it's a no brainer. EZPZ. Support/drift punches/ big damn hammer. I use a section of 5/8" round to shock them loose initially. Hit them like you mean it. This. And there are M-Lok modular free float rails that do not involve removing the barrel nut. Gas tube is reusable. |
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Posted: 5/10/2022 1:30:19 PM EDT
[#14]
I have a PSA that had a canted one, I cut the top off.
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Posted: 5/10/2022 6:54:46 PM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Is it a big deal? Yes. You need a lot of tools to convert from a traditional FSB to an MLOK gun. Vise Roll pin punch for gas tube Mini sledge hammer Dremel and spray paint if you are going to re-use your gas block Clamshell or Midwest URR to support the receiver for the barrel nut Large torque wrench Barrel nut wrench Wrench for flash suppressor Geissele reaction rod or clamp barrel in vise for flash suppressor Fixture or bench block to support the FSB for taper pin work Small torque wrench for handguard screws Ugh. This really makes me want to find a competent person to do it for me. Thanks to everyone for the info and encouragement! Sorry if this is the wrong forum, I didn't want to dumb-down the "build your own" space. |
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Posted: 5/11/2022 12:05:06 AM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Ugh. This really makes me want to find a competent person to do it for me. Thanks to everyone for the info and encouragement! Sorry if this is the wrong forum, I didn't want to dumb-down the "build your own" space. Another alternative is to cut off the top of the FSB with a dremel and just cold blue it to get rid of the front sight. Then just use Magpul plastic handguards. Or just buy another upper. Or run a red dot with the lower 1/3rd optic height. You can still cowitness and the front sight shouldn't bother you much. |
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Posted: 5/16/2022 3:39:15 PM EDT
[#17]
It is easy, do it yourself.
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Posted: 5/17/2022 8:09:10 PM EDT
[#18]
If you plan to hide it under a floating handguard, I’d just cut it down. That’s what I did to my first upper.
Hacksaw, grinder, black paint. Done. $200 gets you a nice handguard. |
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Posted: 5/20/2022 11:40:07 PM EDT
[#19]
Many (most?) dual set-screw, lo-pro gas blocks will interfere with the rear taper pin groove. You may find something like the YHM clamp-on is a better fit if that's the route you elect to go.
https://yhm.net/accessories/gas-blocks/low-profile-gas-block-clamp-screw/ As mentioned above though, removing the FSB & cutting it down to fit under a FF handguard is a great, secure, and cheap(er) option. |
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Posted: 5/20/2022 11:57:29 PM EDT
[#20]
Cut off the tower.
Easy as that, and now you have a low pro gas block for free. |
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Posted: 5/21/2022 1:30:37 PM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Cut off the tower. Easy as that, and now you have a low pro gas block for free. |
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Posted: 5/21/2022 2:01:32 PM EDT
[#22]
You can do it OP, but think carefully before you do it. I almost did that to one about ten years ago, but glad I didn’t. It’s one of my favorites now. I’ve removed several fsp before and wound up putting them back on. I would just buy a new barrel.
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Posted: 5/22/2022 7:32:15 PM EDT
[#23]
Block of wood, 3lb mini sledge, and a 5/16" steel punch is all you need IF your FSB has taper pins per TDP. Wrap the end of the steel punch with packing tape to protect your finish and help keeping it from slipping. Usually one firm strike is all you need. Might need a couple taps with a smaller punch and hammer but once the taper pin moves it'll go fast.
If you have a barrel with straight pins that sucks and I wish you the best of luck. Usually those barrels have the FSB installed before parkerizing and it's a bitch to remove. |
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Posted: 5/22/2022 9:59:47 PM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryQuoted: FYI for the OP, if you just cut off the top, it will not fit under most MLOK handguards. You need to do quite a bit more additional grinding with the Dremel to get it to be truly low profile. Yes, you have to do some shaping. I have done several this way, and depending on the rail, more or less smoothing is required. |
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Posted: 5/22/2022 10:11:03 PM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Yes, you have to do some shaping. I have done several this way, and depending on the rail, more or less smoothing is required. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: FYI for the OP, if you just cut off the top, it will not fit under most MLOK handguards. You need to do quite a bit more additional grinding with the Dremel to get it to be truly low profile. Yes, you have to do some shaping. I have done several this way, and depending on the rail, more or less smoothing is required. Quick work with a belt sander or Dremel wheel.
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Posted: 5/22/2022 11:34:39 PM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Quick work with a belt sander or Dremel wheel. I'm actually a big fan of whizzy wheels. 
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Posted: 6/5/2022 2:28:40 PM EDT
[#27]
Sell URG
Buy new one https://palmettostatearmory.com/psa-14-7-mid-lenght-premium-5-56-nato-1-7-13-5-m-lok-pinned-welded.html  OP didn't indicate the quality of the URG he owns so I'm guessing 16" Carbine Government bbl.  The PSA is a 14.7 midlength which would be an upgraded setup. |
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Posted: 6/5/2022 3:00:32 PM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryThis is not such a bad idea. You don't have to buy a whole new upper, you could just buy a new barrel. By the time you have bought all the tools and paid the medical bills for mashed fingers etc. it is probably cheaper - as well as much easier. Those front-base taper pind are probably the worst part of an AR. If you are lucky, they will knock right out. If you are too hesitant, use a small hammer or don't have everything supported correctly, or maybe just find yourself with softer than normal pins, they can mushroom - then best of luck ... |
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Posted: 6/5/2022 3:30:29 PM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryQuoted: This is not such a bad idea. You don't have to buy a whole new upper, you could just buy a new barrel. By the time you have bought all the tools and paid the medical bills for mashed fingers etc. it is probably cheaper - as well as much easier. Those front-base taper pind are probably the worst part of an AR. If you are lucky, they will knock right out. If you are too hesitant, use a small hammer or don't have everything supported correctly, or maybe just find yourself with softer than normal pins, they can mushroom - then best of luck ... I really like the Wheeler Gas block taper pin tool. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07792P951?tag=arfcom00-20 The key is to place the block on a concrete floor, use a big solid punch that barely fits through the holes of the Wheeler block, and use a 3 lb handheld sledge hammer. I think where people get into trouble with the taper pins is when they use a plastic or wood block or their punches are too small and weak. Once I shock the pins and get them moving, then I switch to a smaller punch that can fit through the holes in the FSB and gently knock the pins out that way. One note is that I did drill cavities on the opposite side of the Wheeler tool to give the pins somewhere to go when I am knocking them out. Not sure why they didn't do that at the factory. |
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Posted: 6/5/2022 3:38:27 PM EDT
[#30]
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Posted: 6/6/2022 2:10:59 PM EDT
[#31]
OP Here... Well I went ahead and took it to a local gun shop and had them do it. I pick it up tomorrow (they were closed Sunday/Monday and I was at work Saturday when I got the call that it was finished). Including the cost of the low profile gas block they used it came to $71. I don't think I could have bought the tools I needed for that amount so it seems a good call. Although seeing it tomorrow will tell the true tale. I'll post pics.
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Posted: 6/11/2022 1:21:55 AM EDT
[#32]
I was little intimidated too, the first time. I end up taking it to a local gunsmith who knocked the taper pins out for me for a can of Dr. Pepper. I brought it in to him and he said go buy me can of Dr. Pepper from the machine across the street and I will have them out when you get back. I bought him two cans. He said the pins were a bit stiff but a little heat and a big hammer they cam right out. I have done dozens of them now so no longer a big deal, infact I knocked some out tonight, but I have all the tools now.
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Posted: 6/11/2022 4:04:30 PM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryQuoted: OP Here... Well I went ahead and took it to a local gun shop and had them do it. I pick it up tomorrow (they were closed Sunday/Monday and I was at work Saturday when I got the call that it was finished). Including the cost of the low profile gas block they used it came to $71. I don't think I could have bought the tools I needed for that amount so it seems a good call. Although seeing it tomorrow will tell the true tale. I'll post pics. |
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Posted: 6/11/2022 4:04:59 PM EDT
[#34]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I was little intimidated too, the first time. I end up taking it to a local gunsmith who knocked the taper pins out for me for a can of Dr. Pepper. I brought it in to him and he said go buy me can of Dr. Pepper from the machine across the street and I will have them out when you get back. I bought him two cans. He said the pins were a bit stiff but a little heat and a big hammer they cam right out. I have done dozens of them now so no longer a big deal, infact I knocked some out tonight, but I have all the tools now. |
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Posted: 6/17/2022 6:36:19 PM EDT
[#35]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I just dremeled the top off and put a two piece extended handguard over it. I took an angle grinder to mine followed by some heat resistant grill paint. Saved a lot of money that way. I didn't even remove them from the barrels first - I just wrapped the barrels up nice and tight to protect them and ground away. |
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Posted: 6/20/2022 1:32:52 AM EDT
[#36]
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Posted: 6/29/2022 12:31:52 PM EDT
[#37]
Quoted: I'd like to remove the A2 front sight gas block and replace it with a low profile gas block for a m-lok handguard. I really like the idea of a clean field of view through an optic and then full co-witness flip-up buis. (already have a magpul rear) So the question is, with no gunsmithing experience, is this a project I can tackle myself, or should I just find a local gunsmith to handle it for me? After you get the A2 front sight gas block off you can, indeed install the new low pro gas block and the rail of your choice. You do need a barrel nut wrench (armorer's wrench), a clam shell type receiver vise block (better than the fancy reaction rods and cheaper) and a vise to hold the block while you work. A Harbor Freight torque wrench is good enough for this kind of work. Those are all inexpensive and things you should have anyway, just to service and maintain your AR. There are good videos on YouTube on the process. Here is one: How To Swap An A2 Front Sight For A Free Float Handguard |
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Posted: 7/10/2022 6:26:57 PM EDT
[#38]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Ugh. This really makes me want to find a competent person to do it for me. Thanks to everyone for the info and encouragement! Sorry if this is the wrong forum, I didn't want to dumb-down the "build your own" space. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Is it a big deal? Yes. You need a lot of tools to convert from a traditional FSB to an MLOK gun. Vise Roll pin punch for gas tube Mini sledge hammer Dremel and spray paint if you are going to re-use your gas block Clamshell or Midwest URR to support the receiver for the barrel nut Large torque wrench Barrel nut wrench Wrench for flash suppressor Geissele reaction rod or clamp barrel in vise for flash suppressor Fixture or bench block to support the FSB for taper pin work Small torque wrench for handguard screws Ugh. This really makes me want to find a competent person to do it for me. Thanks to everyone for the info and encouragement! Sorry if this is the wrong forum, I didn't want to dumb-down the "build your own" space. Using a hacksaw or a Dremel is super easy. Some paint and it's ready to go. Rock solid. |
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Posted: 7/30/2022 11:07:09 PM EDT
[#39]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I just dremeled the top off and put a two piece extended handguard over it. This is the answer you seek. Shave as required to fit inside your FF hand guard. |
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Posted: 8/12/2022 9:25:24 PM EDT
[#40]
Trim off the front sight and profile it with a grinding wheel. Instead of hammering pins to re-attach, chase the holes with a tap and use set screws.
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Posted: 8/16/2022 12:17:23 AM EDT
[#41]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Trim off the front sight and profile it with a grinding wheel. Instead of hammering pins to re-attach, chase the holes with a tap and use set screws. |
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Posted: 8/16/2022 12:41:33 PM EDT
[#42]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Why? Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Trim off the front sight and profile it with a grinding wheel. Instead of hammering pins to re-attach, chase the holes with a tap and use set screws. Ease of modification plus windage adjustable would be my guess. |
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Posted: 10/4/2022 6:23:28 PM EDT
[#43]
100% you can do this yourself if you have basic mechanical comfort. Do your research and take your time.
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Posted: 10/19/2022 9:14:13 PM EDT
[#44]
It is easy enough to tackle for a new guy, just watch some how-to vids. Make sure you have a heavy hammer (hand sledge) and you hit the pins the right way. It might be necessary to put your barrel against something heavy like concrete if they are super tight. If worse comes to worse, you can also cut the front sight off with something like an angle grinder or dremel.
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