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Posted: 4/22/2018 5:48:30 PM EDT
I have no clue how important the trigger hole size is. I’m really hoping this isn’t just scrap.

Full gun

Trigger area

(Apparently Flickr doesn’t like forum linking. What photo sharing site do you all use)

As you can see, the hole is way oversized and ugly (I can clean it up into a more round shape using a hand file, but there’s no point if it’s just junk). I don’t know if any gasses escape down there though and need to be sure before firing this. Other than this problem everything else is spot on. It cocks and fired as it should, safety is right, everything is good. I didn’t realize the tip of my end mill broke though which made gauging depth impossible when cutting out below the safety selector which is how this resulted. Thanks for any info.
Link Posted: 4/22/2018 6:04:44 PM EDT
[#1]
Grip of shame! Grip of shame!  Oh wait....nvm.

It's probably ok structurally. Only down side I would say is it might let dirt into the action easier.  That might be able to be fixed with one of those receiver rugs that were designed to go into the bottom of lower to prevent loose blown primers from jamming up the trigger group.

I would shoot it no worries.

ETA: Welcome to arfcom!
Link Posted: 4/22/2018 6:05:17 PM EDT
[#2]
I dont see how it wouldnt function but it is ugly. use it till you can afford another blank?
Link Posted: 4/22/2018 6:11:12 PM EDT
[#3]
You can tape up the hole, fill the bottom of the reciever with 1/4 inch of JB Weld  and re-mill.
Link Posted: 4/22/2018 6:18:03 PM EDT
[#4]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
You can tape up the hole, fill the bottom of the reciever with 1/4 inch of JB Weld  and re-mill.
View Quote
Exactly, I would cut a small piece of aluminum flashing, put a small layer of JB down, then lay the aluminum on top and coat with JB and re-mill it, put some blue painters tape on the outside over the messed up cut so the JB weld don't run out the hole, let it sit for a few days with the JB weld so it cures good and hard, then redo it and nobody but you will know.

By the way, is that by chance a poly lower, it looks like white plastic, if it is, cut a piece of aluminum flashing or 1/8" plastic and glue it in place then cut the hole out.

Also, how the hell did you have that happen?
Link Posted: 4/22/2018 7:15:34 PM EDT
[#5]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Exactly, I would cut a small piece of aluminum flashing, put a small layer of JB down, then lay the aluminum on top and coat with JB and re-mill it, put some blue painters tape on the outside over the messed up cut so the JB weld don't run out the hole, let it sit for a few days with the JB weld so it cures good and hard, then redo it and nobody but you will know.

By the way, is that by chance a poly lower, it looks like white plastic, if it is, cut a piece of aluminum flashing or 1/8" plastic and glue it in place then cut the hole out.

Also, how the hell did you have that happen?
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
You can tape up the hole, fill the bottom of the reciever with 1/4 inch of JB Weld  and re-mill.
Exactly, I would cut a small piece of aluminum flashing, put a small layer of JB down, then lay the aluminum on top and coat with JB and re-mill it, put some blue painters tape on the outside over the messed up cut so the JB weld don't run out the hole, let it sit for a few days with the JB weld so it cures good and hard, then redo it and nobody but you will know.

By the way, is that by chance a poly lower, it looks like white plastic, if it is, cut a piece of aluminum flashing or 1/8" plastic and glue it in place then cut the hole out.

Also, how the hell did you have that happen?
I did the exact thing, thats how I know how to fix it.

This happens when your end mill comes loose from the router collet.
Link Posted: 4/22/2018 7:24:22 PM EDT
[#6]
Second it with jb weld and flashing to re-do
Link Posted: 4/22/2018 9:23:47 PM EDT
[#7]
Salvagable, but DAMN! that’s ugly. JB Weld is your friend.
Link Posted: 4/22/2018 9:28:18 PM EDT
[#8]
It will function... but damn, that'd be a waste of good JB Weld.
My vote: Kill it with Fire or sell it on Armslist for $20
Link Posted: 4/22/2018 10:24:36 PM EDT
[#9]
No it’s 7075 t6 forges aluminum, not poly. It’s a lot from vision defense, Cerakoted in Snow White. They do them in a variety of colors for around $480 for a complete build with a jig. The end mill I used snapped a hit of the tip off on one side, so I didn’t realize how deep the good side was cutting vs the bad side and once I cleared out all the shavings that’s what I found. Was majorly disappointed. It’s my first one though, so I learned a few things, next one will be better. Need better bits, all the bits I used had horrible “walk” to them. And a carbide end mill shouldn’t break on aluminum.... I didn’t use a router, I used a drill press with an x/y slide vice attached to it. Has anyone here ever used both? I’d love to know from someone who’s used both which is a better way to go, drill press vs router. I want to make several more (call me crazy but I want them in different colors). And would like to perfect the process....
Link Posted: 4/22/2018 10:37:31 PM EDT
[#10]
Link Posted: 4/23/2018 2:14:30 AM EDT
[#11]
Any suggestions on brand/model numbers of routers that are good for this kinda work then? I’m most likely going to be getting the gen 2 jig from 80percentarms.com before my next build. Their jig and tools are made for plunge routers but I’m not really sure what models would work out well. Can you point in the right direction?
Link Posted: 4/23/2018 4:33:36 AM EDT
[#12]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Any suggestions on brand/model numbers of routers that are good for this kinda work then? I'm most likely going to be getting the gen 2 jig from 80percentarms.com before my next build. Their jig and tools are made for plunge routers but I'm not really sure what models would work out well. Can you point in the right direction?
View Quote
https://www.ar15.com/forums/AR-15/NEW-UPDATE-12-17-17-Review-of-the-NEW-5D-Tactical-PRO-Jig-for-cutting-out-80-Lowers-/4-720803/

https://www.ar15.com/forums/AR-15/NEW-UPDATE-12-17-17-Review-of-the-NEW-5D-Tactical-PRO-Jig-for-cutting-out-80-Lowers-/4-720803/
Link Posted: 4/23/2018 7:44:25 AM EDT
[#13]
Link Posted: 4/24/2018 7:32:47 AM EDT
[#14]
You need both drill press and router IMO

Yes a mill would be great..but if no mill..see above

Drill out the majority plunge cutting with the press and finish it up with the router

I like the Makita router Makita makes great tools, I have many and at 99$ its competitive to lesser tools

My first one the router got away from me and made a ragged hole from the trigger pocket to the cavity for the mag release..diddnt affect anything, not sure if gunk build up might one day be an issue but to remove the mag release and spray carb cleaner isn't much of a problem

That sure is an ugly trigger hole : (

Is that rough finish typical of that product?..seems lumpy
Link Posted: 4/25/2018 12:42:32 AM EDT
[#15]
Sean M76:

I've done four of them.  First two scrapped, third and fourth were great.

My advice:

Recommend a drill press, which you have, and router.  A plunge router would be perfect, but I used a new Ridgid 1 1/2 HP Compact Router.  I think the sku is R24012.   It worked very well.  I think technically it's called a laminate trimmer, and it comes with that bit.

Without the plunge feature, you manually lower the bit by about 1/8" each time you make a pass, and carefully put the bit down into one of the holes you drilled with the router, then turn it on and make your pass.  Also, do not ever raise the router out, until it's stopped.

If you're not sure about the runout on your drill press, drill some holes in metal and check how your trigger and hammer pins fit.  If runout is excessive, they will be too loose.  Ditto for the larger hole for the safety.
Link Posted: 4/26/2018 7:05:51 AM EDT
[#16]
In addition to what everyone else has said: as soon as you noticed that bit was broken - cease and desist! Throw it away. You shouldn't have kept going with it. Even under optimal operating conditions, you shouldn't use a damaged bit, the risk is exponential trying to use it on a drill press with an X-Y table. You're lucky that the only thing suffering from it is that receiver, and that you still have all of your soft parts intact.

As for the receiver, As long as there is enough material left for the legs of the trigger return spring to rest on, the weapon will function.
Link Posted: 5/26/2018 2:05:24 PM EDT
[#17]
Back to the repair, as recommended fill with JB weld or other epoxy resin, but I will add, use a smooth packing tape for the bottom dam, as any texture from the tape will be reproduced in your filler, also you can add some of the aluminum filings from the machining process, just for added structure, speaking from experience......
And since I'm editing, it's not ruined by any means fix it and shoot it.
Link Posted: 5/26/2018 11:15:39 PM EDT
[#18]
Sweet Jesus!  After reading your post I had a picture in my head of what your mistake might look like........then I saw the pic!  I’d get a new lower and try again.
Link Posted: 5/27/2018 9:24:23 PM EDT
[#19]
I did an 80% with a bad jig that buggered the safety hole.
Wound up drilling it to 1/2 inch and JB welding in a plug.
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