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You may be able to twist the rail and barrel nut off together. Remove gas tube and gas block and use a URX 4 wrench to twist the entire rail assembly.
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Call it a "Sport" - you don't really need it. Maybe you'll set a trend.
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Strike industries makes a dust cover that just pops in there. May not be as nice looking as the regular but in your situation it might be the easiest.
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You can actually install it from the otherside, bit of pain but very doable.
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Tape the receiver, tap it in from the rear of the receiver, install c clip, done
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IDK about the barrel nut, but you can probably get the dust cover on by removing the c-clip or what ever it's called and inserting the pin from the rear. It'll involve flexing the pin, but it will work.
edit; should have typed faster |
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Remove C-clip, slide rod into position from rear, replace C-clip.
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Didn't know putting loc-tite on the barrel nut was a thing.
Degrease the nut and cold blue it. |
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Tried heat and felt it still not budging. View Quote Heat from what? Blue loctite doesn't take much. Note to self, never get a URX3.1 rail |
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Next time you can just order this.
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Yea I did the backwards assembly on the last upper because the door was on another order that showed up late.
I got it in the backwards way then launched the c clip into space never to be found in this dimension. 70satvert hooked me up by mailing me a spare paying it forward. He is . |
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Originally Posted By Jeepsnguns81: Next time you can just order this. View Quote This or next time I won't be such a dumbass. Thanks for the link man. |
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This is how we learn, next time you notice it just smile and move on knowing you certainly wont make that mistake again. Could have been a trigger guard, those are fun the first time.
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Send me that tiny little c clip and just leave the dust cover off.
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Originally Posted By DirtDivision: Strike industries makes a dust cover that just pops in there. May not be as nice looking as the regular but in your situation it might be the easiest. View Quote While I like the concept, if I spent $300 on a handguard and presumably countless $$ on the rest of the build, I'm not slapping Made In Taiwan parts one it. There are other options. |
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I'd rather be the guy with some beauty marks on my build than a pussy scared to pick up a tool and try personally.
Cold blue that bbl nut and shoot it. |
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Gonna grab some high temp engine black paint tonight and touch it up.
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Originally Posted By KCode98: You can't cold blue aluminum View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By KCode98: Originally Posted By Tigwelder1971: I'd rather be the guy with some beauty marks on my build than a pussy scared to pick up a tool and try personally. Cold blue that bbl nut and shoot it. You can't cold blue aluminum Goddamn aluminum bbl nuts! I won't use them. Alumablack that bitch then. |
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Originally Posted By SteelonSteel: I got it in the backwards way then launched the c clip into space never to be found in this dimension. View Quote Probably somewhere near the pivot pin detent from my first lower build two weeks ago. I found it the first time I launched, not so much the second... |
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Built my first pistol lower today. No tools, no real work bench other than my desk. Wife provided a 3rd hand when needed (hammering in those damn roll pins).
Lost several roll pins (I hold them in place w/ fly tying micro-size hemostats, if something goes wrong they tend to go flying) but fortunately my local Ace Hardware has replacements at 4/$1... |
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Originally Posted By LastRites: Didn't know putting loc-tite on the barrel nut was a thing. Degrease the nut and cold blue it. View Quote Im not all that familiar with the KAC URX 3 but it doesnt appear to have any anti rotation features, my guess is that the loctite is to keep the handguard/barrel nut assembly from rotating as one. I really hope that is not the case. |
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Blue loctite doesnt set up nearly strong enough to be problematic. Sure you didnt use red?
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I had a GI barrel nut missing so many teeth that there was only about one way left to get the wrench on. It happens.
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Originally Posted By AFCarbon15: While I like the concept, if I spent $300 on a handguard and presumably countless $$ on the rest of the build, I'm not slapping Made In Taiwan parts one it. There are other options. View Quote Personally, I like a lot of what Strike Industries offers. But, if you don't like them or want something that looks milspec but doesn't require the rod and c-clip: https://www.midstatefirearms.com/Ar15-Easy-Install-Ejection-Port-Dust-Cover-spring-loaded-rod-ezDC.htm |
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Quoted: This is how we learn, next time you notice it just smile and move on knowing you certainly wont make that mistake again. Could have been a trigger guard, those are fun the first time. View Quote |
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Originally Posted By JupiterMaximus: A blackened part. Done the same with brass. One of those times when I couldn’t find my aluminum black and improvised. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By JupiterMaximus: Originally Posted By Tigwelder1971: And what was the end result? A blackened part. Done the same with brass. One of those times when I couldn’t find my aluminum black and improvised. Interesting. I've never had cold blue agents take to aluminum worth a shit. Also the chems in cold blue are aggressively corrosive to AL. Maybe I'm using the wrong product or application method. I've blacked brass and SS with success, carbon as well. |
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Dwilson used to make steel URX barrel nuts which were far less prone to getting easily boogered up.
The good news is it still works and you learned. I've made plenty of high dollar mistakes in this hobby but I feel like know and understand what I'm doing now more than ever. Tuition to the school of hard knocks I guess. |
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Don't worry I fucked up my first build and a bunch of parts. I recommend investing in a heat gun and some gunsmithing tools, especially torq wrenches in addition to a fix-it-sticks to keep yourself from fucking up in the future.
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Happens to the best of us. Use the Strike plastic door that pops in.
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