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Posted: 3/13/2021 7:15:13 PM EDT
My brother and I have tried everything from cleaning rod to oil and a mix of both. Any ideas on how to get it unstuck would be great.
Link Posted: 3/13/2021 7:17:16 PM EDT
[#1]
Case head still attached?
Link Posted: 3/13/2021 7:19:35 PM EDT
[#2]
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Quoted:
Case head still attached?
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Yes it is
Link Posted: 3/13/2021 7:31:43 PM EDT
[#3]
Look up johnnys reloading bench on youtube.
He used a grease gun to get one out.
Link Posted: 3/13/2021 7:39:01 PM EDT
[#4]
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Quoted:
Look up johnnys reloading bench on youtube.
He used a grease gun to get one out.
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Thanks, but we don’t have a grease gun currently.
Link Posted: 3/13/2021 7:48:00 PM EDT
[#5]
Wooden dowel  about the size of the barrel and a rubber mallet
Link Posted: 3/13/2021 7:54:11 PM EDT
[#6]
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Quoted:
Wooden dowel  about the size of the barrel and a rubber mallet
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We’ve been using a cleaning rod and a mallet but that hasn’t been working. Will a wood dowel be any different?
Link Posted: 3/13/2021 7:59:05 PM EDT
[#7]
You may have to ruin a good steel rod.
Do you have a steel one piece rod that is bent?
Everyone I thought had a one piece that perhaps they used too tight of a patch on that is tweeked.
You don't want anything contacting the crown but so you hold the rod 6 or 8 inches away from bottoming in the case, wake it with a ?? and hope that is enough.
If that doesn't do it, put in the whole way, again nothing strikes the crown, and use a bfh to bump the rod.
You want the rod to fit as close to the bore as possible even using electrical tape to snug it up.
Rifle is held with no play, ie braced against something.
If it's 30 cal or larger you may try to get a piece of round rod instead of a cleaning rod.
Bfh = big Fucken hammer.
Good luck.
Link Posted: 3/13/2021 7:59:50 PM EDT
[#8]
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Quoted:


We’ve been using a cleaning rod and a mallet but that hasn’t been working. Will a wood dowel be any different?
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It will not and in fact can get stuck in the bore.
Link Posted: 3/13/2021 8:00:25 PM EDT
[#9]
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Quoted:


We've been using a cleaning rod and a mallet but that hasn't been working. Will a wood dowel be any different?
View Quote
Dont use a wood dowel, I tried to pound out a bullet from a squib on a revolver, the dowel broke, couldn't pound it out, had to take to a 'smith to have the barrel removed and he pounded it out somehow from the other end.

A long brass rod would be best but who has one of those.

This'll work but have to remove the barrel to get to the case head, a stuck case remover that reloaders use to remove stuck cases from a die, can make a kit yourself or buy a pre-made one like from RCBS

https://www.rcbs.com/case-processing/accessories/stuck-case-remover/16-9340.html


Link Posted: 3/13/2021 11:05:01 PM EDT
[#10]
3/16" brass rod and a hammer.

It'll come out.
Link Posted: 3/13/2021 11:08:09 PM EDT
[#11]
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Quoted:


A long brass rod would be best but who has one of those.


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My local Ace store carries them.
Link Posted: 3/13/2021 11:23:51 PM EDT
[#12]
Alright I’ll head to Home Depot tomorrow to get a bigger mallet and a brass rod. I’ll update y’all if I make any progress. Thank you all for the help.
Link Posted: 3/13/2021 11:28:13 PM EDT
[#13]
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Quoted:


My local Ace store carries them.
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Cool.   They seem to come in 12" or 36" lengths, I'd go with the 36" one

Figure out how much length is needed for the rod to stock out of the flash hider about 1/2" then cut it there, then put in barrel make sure it reaches the case head and whack it.  For a larger striking surface put a 9mm case over the end to be whacked.  This would also allow use of a mini-sledge hammer and still not screw up the rod that much

Attachment Attached File
Link Posted: 3/14/2021 2:07:03 AM EDT
[#14]
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Quoted:

Cool.   They seem to come in 12" or 36" lengths, I'd go with the 36" one

Figure out how much length is needed for the rod to stock out of the flash hider about 1/2" then cut it there, then put in barrel make sure it reaches the case head and whack it.  For a larger striking surface put a 9mm case over the end to be whacked.  This would also allow use of a mini-sledge hammer and still not screw up the rod that much

https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/59119/brassrod_jpg-1864559.JPG
View Quote


Awesome thanks for the tip! I didn’t think of using an empty case to help.
Link Posted: 3/14/2021 2:15:39 AM EDT
[#15]
thinking more on this: if you cut it higher then use a .223 case vs a 9mm case, want avoid jamming the .223 case on the whacking end into the barrel.  Won't be as much wobble with .223 vs a 9mm case on the whacking end

The rod needs to be as short as possible otherwise the energy of the hammer will go to flexing the rod vs knocking out the stuck case
Link Posted: 3/14/2021 8:41:17 AM EDT
[#16]
When I first got into ARs this happened to me. Brass rod and a hammer will do it. Penetrating oil down the barrel can help.
Link Posted: 3/14/2021 11:42:42 AM EDT
[#17]
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Quoted:
When I first got into ARs this happened to me. Brass rod and a hammer will do it. Penetrating oil down the barrel can help.
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Another good idea! Heading to Home Depot to get the stuff and the oil. Again, thank you all for the help. Will post update after trying the new stuff out.
Link Posted: 3/14/2021 11:49:10 AM EDT
[#18]
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Quoted:
Dont use a wood dowel, I tried to pound out a bullet from a squib on a revolver, the dowel broke, couldn't pound it out, had to take to a 'smith to have the barrel removed and he pounded it out somehow from the other end.

A long brass rod would be best but who has one of those.

This'll work but have to remove the barrel to get to the case head, a stuck case remover that reloaders use to remove stuck cases from a die, can make a kit yourself or buy a pre-made one like from RCBS

https://www.rcbs.com/case-processing/accessories/stuck-case-remover/16-9340.html


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Quoted:
Quoted:


We've been using a cleaning rod and a mallet but that hasn't been working. Will a wood dowel be any different?
Dont use a wood dowel, I tried to pound out a bullet from a squib on a revolver, the dowel broke, couldn't pound it out, had to take to a 'smith to have the barrel removed and he pounded it out somehow from the other end.

A long brass rod would be best but who has one of those.

This'll work but have to remove the barrel to get to the case head, a stuck case remover that reloaders use to remove stuck cases from a die, can make a kit yourself or buy a pre-made one like from RCBS

https://www.rcbs.com/case-processing/accessories/stuck-case-remover/16-9340.html




You can buy brass rods [even threaded work] at most decent hardware stores. And remember, don't have the BCG locked into the chamber, that is a great way to screw stuff up. If you can remove the upper, take out the bcg, place the rear of the upper on a piece of wood and then commence to smacking the rod with [preferably dead weight brass] hammer, it would be the best way.
Link Posted: 3/14/2021 12:01:31 PM EDT
[#19]
Hit the rod HARD. Don't pussyfoot around with it. Worst case, try compressed air at about 100psi. Should knock that case out.
Link Posted: 3/14/2021 12:32:12 PM EDT
[#20]
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Quoted:
Hit the rod HARD. Don't pussyfoot around with it. Worst case, try compressed air at about 100psi. Should knock that case out.
View Quote

Air is a waste of time.
Link Posted: 3/14/2021 1:34:59 PM EDT
[#21]
Hit it harder
Link Posted: 3/14/2021 5:08:13 PM EDT
[#22]
Alright update, after bending multiple rods due to the force of a 3 pound mallet. The casing is still in there tighter than a nuns asshole. I called wolf asking if they have any ideas before I take it to a Smith. Will update once I hear back or if anyone else has any other ideas.
Link Posted: 3/14/2021 5:37:43 PM EDT
[#23]
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Quoted:
Alright update, after bending multiple rods due to the force of a 3 pound mallet. The casing is still in there tighter than a nuns asshole. I called wolf asking if they have any ideas before I take it to a Smith. Will update once I hear back or if anyone else has any other ideas.
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Is the upper still attached to the lower? Where is the BCG in all this?
Link Posted: 3/14/2021 5:39:08 PM EDT
[#24]
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Quoted:


Is the upper still attached to the lower? Where is the BCG in all this?
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We were able to take the gun completely apart. IE separate the two halves and take the BCG out.

Edit: we had to mortar the rifle open but it is taken apart. Then we started all the work with the oil, hammer, and different rods. Still stuck in there.
Link Posted: 3/14/2021 5:42:57 PM EDT
[#25]
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Quoted:



We were able to take the gun completely apart. IE separate the two halves and take the BCG out.

Edit: we had to mortar the rifle open but it is taken apart. Then we started all the work with the oil, hammer, and different rods. Still stuck in there.
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Quoted:
Quoted:


Is the upper still attached to the lower? Where is the BCG in all this?



We were able to take the gun completely apart. IE separate the two halves and take the BCG out.

Edit: we had to mortar the rifle open but it is taken apart. Then we started all the work with the oil, hammer, and different rods. Still stuck in there.


Have you sprayed anything like Kroil around the base or down the barrel? You can always try to spray liquid carbon dioxide down the barrel for a few seconds, let the case shrink a bit then give it a few whacks before the chamber starts to contract also.
Link Posted: 3/14/2021 5:44:47 PM EDT
[#26]
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Quoted:


Have you sprayed anything like Kroil around the base or down the barrel? You can always try to spray liquid carbon dioxide down the barrel for a few seconds, let the case shrink a bit then give it a few whacks before the chamber starts to contract also.
View Quote


Answer and question. Yes we have sprayed penetrating oil around the base, and where does one get this liquid carbon dioxide? We haven’t tried that yet.
Link Posted: 3/14/2021 5:50:38 PM EDT
[#27]
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Quoted:


Answer and question. Yes we have sprayed penetrating oil around the base, and where does one get this liquid carbon dioxide? We haven’t tried that yet.
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Quoted:
Quoted:


Have you sprayed anything like Kroil around the base or down the barrel? You can always try to spray liquid carbon dioxide down the barrel for a few seconds, let the case shrink a bit then give it a few whacks before the chamber starts to contract also.


Answer and question. Yes we have sprayed penetrating oil around the base, and where does one get this liquid carbon dioxide? We haven’t tried that yet.


Keyboard duster, flip the can upside down when you spray, wear gloves. Thermal shock works quite well when done right.
Link Posted: 3/14/2021 5:51:55 PM EDT
[#28]
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Quoted:


Keyboard duster, flip the can upside down when you spray, wear gloves.
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That’s what I was thinking, but didn’t want to assume. Going to get some now. Will update later. Thank you so much.
Link Posted: 3/14/2021 6:38:02 PM EDT
[#29]
Thanks for the ideas, but still not budging. Any other ideas anyone?

Edit: posted photosAttachment Attached File
Attachment Attached File
Link Posted: 3/14/2021 6:45:17 PM EDT
[#30]
How much rod do you have sticking out of the front of the barrel? Have you measured the depth to see if you have a bore obstruction before the actual case? I wouldn't have more then an inch of free rod sticking out of the barrel to prevent bending and losing force at the base of the rod.

I'd heat up a rod end red hot and drop it into the barrel once I measured and made sure it's actually hitting the base of the case, let it heat the area up well, I'd probably do that several times, let the chamber get hot also, then spray duster down the barrel again and immediately give it a good hard whack.
Link Posted: 3/14/2021 6:49:47 PM EDT
[#31]
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Quoted:
How much rod do you have sticking out of the front of the barrel? Have you measured the depth to see if you have a bore obstruction before the actual case? I wouldn't have more then an inch of free rod sticking out of the barrel to prevent bending and losing force at the base of the rod.

I'd heat up a rod end red hot and drop it into the barrel once I measured and made sure it's actually hitting the base of the case, let it heat the area up well, I'd probably do that several times, let the chamber get hot also, then spray duster down the barrel again and immediately give it a good hard whack.
View Quote


On the smaller rod I would say about an inch or 2 and the big rod we bent it to get the correct length. How do you suggest to heat the rod up? We have no way to physically cut the rod to the specific length which leads me to taking it to a Smith at this point.

Edit: we are fairly confident that we do not have a bore obstruction.
Link Posted: 3/14/2021 6:53:26 PM EDT
[#32]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:


On the smaller rod I would say about an inch or 2 and the big rod we bent it to get the correct length. How do you suggest to heat the rod up? We have no way to physically cut the rod to the specific length which leads me to taking it to a Smith at this point.

Edit: we are fairly confident that we do not have a bore obstruction.
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Quoted:
Quoted:
How much rod do you have sticking out of the front of the barrel? Have you measured the depth to see if you have a bore obstruction before the actual case? I wouldn't have more then an inch of free rod sticking out of the barrel to prevent bending and losing force at the base of the rod.

I'd heat up a rod end red hot and drop it into the barrel once I measured and made sure it's actually hitting the base of the case, let it heat the area up well, I'd probably do that several times, let the chamber get hot also, then spray duster down the barrel again and immediately give it a good hard whack.


On the smaller rod I would say about an inch or 2 and the big rod we bent it to get the correct length. How do you suggest to heat the rod up? We have no way to physically cut the rod to the specific length which leads me to taking it to a Smith at this point.

Edit: we are fairly confident that we do not have a bore obstruction.


You can't beat on a bent rod, it transmits very little force straight down. Use a hacksaw or dremel to cut to length. Use a propane torch to heat the last inch or two of the rod up. Use the largest diameter rod possible you want as tight a fit down the bore as possible.
Link Posted: 3/14/2021 6:58:08 PM EDT
[#33]
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Quoted:
Thanks for the ideas, but still not budging. Any other ideas anyone?

Edit: posted photos https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/529569/5EF0DDEC-6400-4B33-9F95-C313D42DC93D_jpe-1865643.JPG
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is that the bent rod? Doesn't look like it's brass and its way too long, as short as possible sticking out of the barrel, remove the flash hider if you have on

Saw your update, just need a hacksaw to cut the brass rod length, friend or neighbor have one?
Even bolt cutters will work, I'd use the cut portion down the barrel first, leaves as much flat area for the mallet to strike on the other end
Link Posted: 3/14/2021 7:05:33 PM EDT
[#34]
What about drilling out the primer, and then using an Easy-Out and a pair of thin vise grips to put some twist torque on the shell?
Link Posted: 3/14/2021 7:09:51 PM EDT
[#35]
is this .223, that looks like a large rifle primer
Link Posted: 3/14/2021 7:10:54 PM EDT
[#36]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:


You can't beat on a bent rod, it transmits very little force straight down. Use a hacksaw or dremel to cut to length. Use a propane torch to heat the last inch or two of the rod up. Use the largest diameter rod possible you want as tight a fit down the bore as possible.
View Quote


We don’t have the tools to cut the rod which is the issue we are having. With the hacksaw and propane torch and all the other stuff adding up I might as well just take it to a Smith to fix it. Thanks for the help though.
Link Posted: 3/14/2021 7:12:40 PM EDT
[#37]
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Quoted:
is that the bent rod? Doesn't look like it's brass and its way too long, as short as possible sticking out of the barrel, remove the flash hider if you have on

Saw your update, just need a hacksaw to cut the brass rod length, friend or neighbor have one?
Even bolt cutters will work, I'd use the cut portion down the barrel first, leaves as much flat area for the mallet to strike on the other end
View Quote


No one in town had a brass one so we had to get a steel one. They also didn’t have the correct length we needed so we had to make due with what we had. We don’t really have any tools that we can use to cut the rod, and with how much this is adding up, I’m feeling like I might as well take it to a smith.
Link Posted: 3/14/2021 7:12:47 PM EDT
[#38]
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Quoted:
Any other ideas anyone?

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Ahh, don't shoot steel?
Link Posted: 3/14/2021 7:13:01 PM EDT
[#39]
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Quoted:
is this .223, that looks like a large rifle primer
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It’s wolf steel cased .223
Link Posted: 3/14/2021 7:13:18 PM EDT
[#40]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:


Ahh, don't shoot steel?
View Quote


Bingo
Link Posted: 3/14/2021 7:14:23 PM EDT
[#41]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
What about drilling out the primer, and then using an Easy-Out and a pair of thin vise grips to put some twist torque on the shell?
View Quote


With the upper I don’t think I can get a drill in there. Also what would drilling out the primer do?
Link Posted: 3/14/2021 7:15:22 PM EDT
[#42]
Where in TX?  I've succesfully used the steel 3 piece cleaning rod that comes with the military kit to punch one out before.
Link Posted: 3/14/2021 7:18:36 PM EDT
[#43]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Where in TX?  I've succesfully used the steel 3 piece cleaning rod that comes with the military kit to punch one out before.
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DFW and we used a similar rod and it bent
Link Posted: 3/14/2021 7:26:51 PM EDT
[#44]
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Quoted:


With the upper I don’t think I can get a drill in there. Also what would drilling out the primer do?
View Quote

It would allow you to insert the Easy-Out into the hole and turn.

Reconsidering that you don't have a hacksaw or a torch, maybe you are right in going to a smith. Have the smith check the dimensions on that thing after he gets it out.

Order yourself an assortment of brass rods for the future. I have some, but haven't had to use one, yet.
Link Posted: 3/14/2021 7:28:14 PM EDT
[#45]
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Quoted:


Ahh, don't shoot steel?
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I shoot the shot out of it. Non issue.

Shitty chambers and/or powder blow by are to blame.
Link Posted: 3/14/2021 7:28:49 PM EDT
[#46]
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Quoted:


No one in town had a brass one so we had to get a steel one. They also didn’t have the correct length we needed so we had to make due with what we had. We don’t really have any tools that we can use to cut the rod, and with how much this is adding up, I’m feeling like I might as well take it to a smith.
View Quote

Smith time.
Link Posted: 3/14/2021 7:29:08 PM EDT
[#47]
At this point take to 'smith.  Steel rods are bad, they'll scratch a steel barrel.  Why a brass rod is recommended.  The Wolf lacquer or polycoat probably melted gluing the case to the chamber
Link Posted: 3/14/2021 7:34:39 PM EDT
[#48]
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Quoted:
 The Wolf lacquer or polycoat probably melted gluing the case to the chamber
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Web lore.
Link Posted: 3/14/2021 7:38:45 PM EDT
[#49]
Thanks all for the help. After trying everything I could with the tools I have. I’m just going to stop fucking with it and take it to a smith. Thank you all for the help. I do have a chrome lined delton barrel so idk if that constitutes as a bad barrel (I’ve read about their barrels and head good things and shot this gun with a lot of brass and never had this issue). The main takeaway from this is my rifle clearly hates steel cased ammo
Link Posted: 3/14/2021 9:57:54 PM EDT
[#50]
Yeah, I've had a barrel or two that hated steel cased.  Others that eat it all day long.  Good luck.
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