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Posted: 3/13/2020 9:58:25 PM EDT
[#1]
Grey.
Paint it if you have too. |
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Posted: 3/13/2020 11:24:38 PM EDT
[#2]
Quoted:
So, I'm planning on making an SP1 style rifle on an 80% lower. More for function, not so much a 100% clone. I have a few questions: 1) Is black anodizing on the upper/lower receiver sacrilege? 2) Based on the answer to the previous question, who makes a good slab side upper receiver? If grey is the only way, who makes a good quality 80% lower in grey anodizing. 3) Where to source a good quality A1 furniture set? I've heard Brownell's isn't very strong, not to mention they're out of stock. 4) Barrel? I'm looking at a 1:9 twist, I don't necessarily require Chrome Lining. I was looking at a NBS barrel on ar15discounts but I'm not so sure. Thanks, Chase Get the brown furniture, then dip em in some black rit dye. Works for me. I use a retangular metal cake pan on the stove top, and get it plenty hot. Use tongs. A simple no brainer operation. Love my Brownell furniture. Weak? Not really. Check out JSE. They have nice barrels there. Furniture sets too for a few bucks more than Brrownells. |
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Posted: 3/14/2020 9:37:43 AM EDT
[#3]
why an SP1, why not just an early 604?
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Posted: 3/14/2020 10:59:05 AM EDT
[#4]
I have the ar15discounts barrel, while I havent shot it yet I'm happy with my purchase. Just be aware it does not come with front sight post or sling swivel.
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Posted: 3/14/2020 12:28:14 PM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I have the ar15discounts barrel, while I havent shot it yet I'm happy with my purchase. Just be aware it does not come with front sight post or sling swivel. |
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Posted: 3/14/2020 12:36:15 PM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
why an SP1, why not just an early 604? Looks like the 601 is the slab side variant. The following variants have forward assists? |
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Posted: 3/15/2020 10:21:10 AM EDT
[#7]
New questions:
1) Any source for A1 80% lowers? I'm seeing NoDak Spud as the only producer I can find currently. 2) Any source of raw aluminum A1 upper receivers, not 80 percent. I can't find any of these. I'm going to engrave the lower, so I need raw aluminum. And I'm planning on coating it in John Norrell's Moly Resin. With that being said, I'd like the A1 upper receiver to match, so I think it should be raw aluminum as well? Maybe John Norrell's Moly Resin works on regular anodizing just fine. |
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Posted: 3/15/2020 10:49:42 AM EDT
[#8]
The upper does not need to be raw aluminum. Norrell's greyish flat black will be a close match to an original grey upper or a new one anodized in XM grey. If you want the colors exact, you can spray Norrell's over anodizing.
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Posted: 3/15/2020 11:20:00 AM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
The upper does not need to be raw aluminum. Norrell's greyish flat black will be a close match to an original grey upper or a new one anodized in XM grey. If you want the colors exact, you can spray Norrell's over anodizing. Do you need to rough up anodizing to ensure Moly Resin sticks well, if so how would you go about roughing it up? |
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Posted: 3/15/2020 11:53:50 AM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I suppose a 601/602/603/604 is what I'm going for. I really don't know the distinction between each variant. Just looking for a slab side upper receiver, three prong flash hider. Looks like the 601 is the slab side variant. The following variants have forward assists? https://bpullignwolnet.dotster.com/retroblackrifle/ModGde/RflGde.html |
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Posted: 3/15/2020 12:06:32 PM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Do you need to rough up anodizing to ensure Moly Resin sticks well, if so how would you go about roughing it up? If it's shiny, like a lot of older, used, uppers I would rough it up before spraying it. The best way would be to give it a light dusting in a blast cabinet to give the Norrells a little "tooth" to adhere to. |
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Posted: 3/15/2020 1:08:55 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted: The one I'm looking at for $169.95 says it does come with a FSB? It's a lightweight contour barrel. |
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Posted: 3/15/2020 2:00:27 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted: do a little homework before you buy anything https://bpullignwolnet.dotster.com/retroblackrifle/ModGde/RflGde.html |
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Posted: 3/15/2020 2:02:04 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted: It depends on the anodizing. If it's a good, matte finish, then you can spray right over it after a thorough degreasing. If it's shiny, like a lot of older, used, uppers I would rough it up before spraying it. The best way would be to give it a light dusting in a blast cabinet to give the Norrells a little "tooth" to adhere to. |
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Posted: 3/15/2020 2:03:21 PM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Yes it has the sight base but no front sight post, detent or spring. I bought a a1 kit off of tnte sales. Came with the front sight post,spring,detent, sling swivel and rivet to finish it off |
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Posted: 3/15/2020 3:45:35 PM EDT
[#16]
Where was this style of rollmark used? I know of the mainstream M16A1 rollmark where it lists "PROPERTY OF U.S. GOVT." & you have the option of it saying "COLT AR-15" or not.
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Posted: 3/15/2020 5:24:32 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Where was this style of rollmark used? I know of the mainstream M16A1 rollmark where it lists "PROPERTY OF U.S. GOVT." & you have the option of it saying "COLT AR-15" or not. https://i.imgur.com/B8m8ELH.jpg My sp1 roll mark says: COLT AR-15 CAL .223 MODEL SP1 SER SP XXXXX If you want a 601 Dogfight ink has the stencils for a 601 except on actual 601’s the “Safe, semi and auto” markings are only on one side 
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Posted: 3/15/2020 5:28:42 PM EDT
[#18]
If you’re going for an SP1 this is the roll mark you want.
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Posted: 3/15/2020 5:31:45 PM EDT
[#19]
If you’re going for a 604 (no forward assist) this is the roll mark you’d want
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Posted: 3/16/2020 1:41:45 PM EDT
[#20]
It's too bad, but Dogfight Ink doesn't/can't offer any stencils with Colt's logos or information any more.
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Posted: 3/16/2020 5:22:48 PM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
It's too bad, but Dogfight Ink doesn't/can't offer any stencils with Colt's logos or information any more. |
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Posted: 3/16/2020 8:11:40 PM EDT
[#22]
Just wondering, what is the purpose of serializing an 80 percent lower. Is it just a random serial number for visual purposes or are people legitimately serializing their lowers and registering them.
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Posted: 3/16/2020 8:55:11 PM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Just wondering, what is the purpose of serializing an 80 percent lower. Is it just a random serial number for visual purposes or are people legitimately serializing their lowers and registering them. |
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Posted: 3/16/2020 9:45:10 PM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Usually visual purposes unless the owner has someone mill it out, but who ever does it has to be a licensed manufacturer where they legally have to put their name and a serial number on the gun. Most people just mill them out themselves. I have an 80% with the same markings as one of my Colt XM16E1 demilled receivers right down to the same serial number. (It was too far gone for Braceman to resurrect) |
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Posted: 3/18/2020 9:31:37 AM EDT
[#25]
Okay, so after a few days of hardcore research I have a pretty good understanding of the 601, 602, 603, and 604.
With that being said, now comes engraving the lower. I have two methods, one seems experimental - the other is obvious. 1) Basic method: Take a raw 80% lower, electro etch, sand blast, cover in moly resin, bake. 2) Experimental method: Take an anodized 80% lower, remove the anodizing only from the rollmark areas with oven cleaner, electro etch, sand blast etched areas, cover in moly resin, bake. I'm thinking of using an already anodized receiver because all of the nooks and crannies are anodized and have a protective coating. I feel as if you could just remove the anodizing from the areas you're going to etch, leave everything else anodized. Once it's covered in Moly Resin who'd know? |
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Posted: 3/18/2020 10:10:27 AM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Okay, so after a few days of hardcore research I have a pretty good understanding of the 601, 602, 603, and 604. With that being said, now comes engraving the lower. I have two methods, one seems experimental - the other is obvious. 1) Basic method: Take a raw 80% lower, electro etch, sand blast, cover in moly resin, bake. 2) Experimental method: Take an anodized 80% lower, remove the anodizing only from the rollmark areas with oven cleaner, electro etch, sand blast etched areas, cover in moly resin, bake. I'm thinking of using an already anodized receiver because all of the nooks and crannies are anodized and have a protective coating. I feel as if you could just remove the anodizing from the areas you're going to etch, leave everything else anodized. Once it's covered in Moly Resin who'd know? |
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Posted: 3/18/2020 5:50:49 PM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Okay, so after a few days of hardcore research I have a pretty good understanding of the 601, 602, 603, and 604. With that being said, now comes engraving the lower. I have two methods, one seems experimental - the other is obvious. 1) Basic method: Take a raw 80% lower, electro etch, sand blast, cover in moly resin, bake. 2) Experimental method: Take an anodized 80% lower, remove the anodizing only from the rollmark areas with oven cleaner, electro etch, sand blast etched areas, cover in moly resin, bake. I'm thinking of using an already anodized receiver because all of the nooks and crannies are anodized and have a protective coating. I feel as if you could just remove the anodizing from the areas you're going to etch, leave everything else anodized. Once it's covered in Moly Resin who'd know? |
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Posted: 3/18/2020 5:57:31 PM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryQuoted: If I were you I’d take a raw 80% get yourself a colt stencil from Dogfight ink (they’re less than $20), electro etch it, and have the whole thing anodized, you get what you want a whole lot easier and it’ll look WAY better. To do option 2 is VERY redundant. |
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Posted: 3/18/2020 6:30:43 PM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I thought you can't get AR lowers anodized if they aren't serialized? |
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Posted: 3/18/2020 7:04:06 PM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryQuoted: That’s the first time I ever heard that. I’d contact SNF finishing or Victor at US Anodizing and verify if that’s true or not. (I have my doubts it’s true but I could be wrong)But if you get a stencil from dogfight you can make up any serial number you want |
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Posted: 3/27/2020 6:29:46 PM EDT
[#31]
Here is the question I asked Victor:
Hey Victor, I've been asking around in regards to creating my own M16A1 lower receiver and I've been sent to you in regards to anodizing 80% lowers. I had a few questions. I plan on starting from scratch with a raw lower from NoDak Spud. 1) Will you anodize an already milled receiver? 2) Do you require a serial number to anodize a lower? 3) Will you anodize lowers with electro etching on them. Thanks, Chase Here is Victor's reply: Hi, Sorry, but we are not able to take any new work at this time. With all the stuff going on now with this virus, it is going to be a few months or more. We are only processing contract parts right now, and doing that short handed. Also, we are no longer processing 80% self manufactured receivers. Victor |
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