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Posted: 4/10/2021 2:54:38 PM EDT
I have an SBR that I run suppressed 75% of the time with an SLR adjustable gas block on it. After a week of hitting it with kroil and using 3 allen wrenches, I finally got it unstuck. However, I'm looking to figure out what I can do differently moving forward. I oiled the screw, but did not adjust it after each range trip. Given this is an SBR, I also cannot back the screw out more than a turn as it hits the muzzle device. Before I put red loctite back on the muzzle device back on, I want to have a decent plan of what to do moving forward.
Given the closeness of the adjustment screw to the muzzle device, I have to cut allen wrenches down to fit underneath the muzzle device, so it's a PITA process when it strips allen wrenches as I have to make new ones. The options I see moving forward are: 1) Wiggling it a few notches each time after shooting which I don't think will be sufficient, nor will I remember every time, so probably will happen again. 2) Permanently set the gas block to work unsuppressed, which means the gun will be a bit gassier than I want when suppressed, but the gas block essentially is fixed at that point and can just do it's normal seizing thing. 3) Since it strips allen wrenches, try and drill a small hole through the screw laterally so I can use a nail or small allen wrench to get more leverage which will allow me to adjust it, not have to worry about stripping allen wrenches, and be able to adjust it more forward/backward with oil. 4) Something else? Is there a better/different adjustable gas block? 
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Posted: 4/10/2021 3:00:51 PM EDT
[#1]
Superlative Arms bleed off.
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Posted: 4/10/2021 3:41:27 PM EDT
[#2]
This could potentially work, however based on some of the pictures I’m seeing it may be too long given how much the set screw protrudes.
Ideally I want to be able to still adjust the gas block to make it ideal for either suppressed or unsuppressed. I have very little space between muzzle device and screw, and this looks like it sticks out more than my current one does. Do you have one? If so, could you measure how much the screw sticks out with some calipers and how long the block is? The dimensions diagram only shows the front view so you can see if it fits under your rails. |
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Posted: 4/10/2021 3:49:26 PM EDT
[#3]
Have u tried using the Allen's with the ball at the end? It seems you have enough room for one. That's what I use on my SLR'ed 7.5in blaster
 
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Posted: 4/10/2021 4:19:45 PM EDT
[#4]
I have, however the problem is that the screw strips Allen wrenches because it seizes up due to the design. I went through four of those before I finally gave up. The ball design has far less engagement surface area so they instantly strip.
I either need a different mechanism that allows to turn the screw that allows for more leverage (drilling through screw head to make a lever) or a different gas block that doesn’t get gunked up with carbon. How much space do you have between the gas block and your brake? And do you ever adjust yours or just set it once? I can set it once and use a ball wrench, but beyond the first few shots it gets stuck so this adjustable gas block isn’t really adjustable past initial cleaning |
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Posted: 4/10/2021 5:20:44 PM EDT
[#5]
Grind flat spots on each side of the screw head, parallel from each other. Hit the spots with some cold blue. Use a small wrench to make adjustments.
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Posted: 4/10/2021 6:18:18 PM EDT
[#6]
Set it to best function and leave it alone?
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Posted: 4/10/2021 6:26:25 PM EDT
[#7]
Well there isn’t a set it and leave it alone as the rifle is either set to shoot suppressed and then under gassed when not suppressed and won’t cycle or set to shoot fine Unsuppressed but then over gassed when suppressed.
I like the idea of grinding flat spots / cold blue and then adjusting with a wrench. I think I’ll go that route as it will allow me to make changes and I’ll try and be better about loosening / oiling after range trips. I’m still interested in the superlative gas block so if anyone has one and can send the measurements that’d be great. |
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Posted: 4/10/2021 7:25:52 PM EDT
[#8]
I understand how adjustable gas works, thanks.
I don't understand why running perfectly suppressed and unsuppressed is a priority. Do you rezero every time you go back and forth? If I have a suppressed firearm it is suppressed. Unsuppressed is unsuppressed. |
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Posted: 4/10/2021 8:29:34 PM EDT
[#9]
Not sure where the confusion lies? I don’t always shoot the gun suppressed. This has nothing to do with zero. I like to run the gun with the least amount of gas coming back so I like to adjust the gas block. If I leave it and don’t touch it the gun is under gassed or over gassed depending on the scenario. It’s an adjustable gas block...I’m just trying to find a way to adjust it when it’s full of carbon.
If I do leave it static then I’d set it so it cycles I suppressed but then it gets decently dirty and there’s gas coming out the charging handle a bit. Just trying to have my cake and eat it too. |
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Posted: 4/10/2021 8:59:24 PM EDT
[#10]
Replace the socket head with a hex head screw.
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Posted: 4/10/2021 9:20:14 PM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Replace the socket head with a hex head screw. Thanks for the suggestion. This would be tricky as the screw they have is somewhat special in that it has flutes cut into it which allow for the gas to be adjusted. I don’t think I’d be able to replicate it exactly. One of the suggestions above was to grind it down so I might go that route and just make it a hex head myself. |
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Posted: 4/10/2021 9:34:25 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Thanks for the suggestion. This would be tricky as the screw they have is somewhat special in that it has flutes cut into it which allow for the gas to be adjusted. I don’t think I’d be able to replicate it exactly. One of the suggestions above was to grind it down so I might go that route and just make it a hex head myself. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Replace the socket head with a hex head screw. Thanks for the suggestion. This would be tricky as the screw they have is somewhat special in that it has flutes cut into it which allow for the gas to be adjusted. I don’t think I’d be able to replicate it exactly. One of the suggestions above was to grind it down so I might go that route and just make it a hex head myself. Gotcha. Never thought of the screw shank being proprietary. |
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Posted: 4/10/2021 9:35:50 PM EDT
[#13]
I’d recommend just going with the “set it and forget it” method. Most AGBs will seize up if not routinely adjusted/maintained. A little extra gas while suppressed is not the end of the world.
That, or look at a Noveske Switchblock if it’ll work with your handguard length. |
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Posted: 4/10/2021 9:52:42 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I’d recommend just going with the “set it and forget it” method. Most AGBs will seize up if not routinely adjusted/maintained. A little extra gas while suppressed is not the end of the world. That, or look at a Noveske Switchblock if it’ll work with your handguard length. BRT EZ Tune gas would be my personal choice. |
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Posted: 4/10/2021 10:18:24 PM EDT
[#15]
I run SA AGB. The body is 1" in length. The screw extends 5/16" to full open, then continues further into bypass mode. The screw is as low as the adjustment screw in your picture. There are AGB's with side adjustments if your handguard will allow access or you're willing to modify for a access hole/slot.
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Posted: 4/10/2021 10:46:11 PM EDT
[#16]
I have no trouble with any of mine seizing mad I use a ball end Allen. I go hundreds and hundreds of round up to over a thousand rounds between moving it.
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Posted: 4/10/2021 11:19:39 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I have no trouble with any of mine seizing mad I use a ball end Allen. I go hundreds and hundreds of round up to over a thousand rounds between moving it. What gas block are you using? Do you ever oil yours? |
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Posted: 4/11/2021 10:34:30 AM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted: What gas block are you using? Do you ever oil yours? Slr adjustable. I have 4. Two are shit less but the other two are run hard and all I’ve ever done is move it one click back and forth occasionally. |
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Posted: 4/11/2021 6:44:15 PM EDT
[#19]
This may be a factor I don’t know but I always adjust mine when the rifle is hot.
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Posted: 4/11/2021 7:47:49 PM EDT
[#20]
close it off and run an adjustable gas key- they are easy to mount and relativvely easy to adjust
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Posted: 4/11/2021 8:15:43 PM EDT
[#21]
Do they make replacement screws? I ripped mine out of the gas block and not using it now for that reason. Thanks for the information.
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Posted: 4/11/2021 10:37:17 PM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryQuoted: close it off and run an adjustable gas key- they are easy to mount and relativvely easy to adjust Valid option. Standard gas block with a Bootleg BCG. Bootleg BCG |
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Posted: 4/12/2021 12:16:00 AM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Slr adjustable. I have 4. Two are shit less but the other two are run hard and all I’ve ever done is move it one click back and forth occasionally. What exactly is shit less? Legitimately curious. |
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Posted: 4/12/2021 9:54:26 AM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Thanks for the suggestion. This would be tricky as the screw they have is somewhat special in that it has flutes cut into it which allow for the gas to be adjusted. I don’t think I’d be able to replicate it exactly. One of the suggestions above was to grind it down so I might go that route and just make it a hex head myself. Seems like a simple hex head nut welded to shaft versus grinding flats will work. Likely can buy spare screws just in case to revert back to stock. |
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Posted: 4/12/2021 9:21:46 PM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryQuoted: What exactly is shit less? Legitimately curious. Shot less haha |
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Posted: 4/12/2021 9:45:38 PM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryIf you want adjustable gas, this in my experience has been a lot more trouble-free (read: completely trouble-free). Plenty of adjustment, they don't seem to fail at anywhere near the same rate, and if you need to service it the offending part is out of the rifle in five seconds. That or BRT tubes are what I'm using on all my ARs at this point. Bootleg carrier + DD bolt has been flawless for me and I'm terrible about cleaning guns. |
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Posted: 4/13/2021 7:38:55 AM EDT
[#27]
Thanks for all the replies. I looked into the adjustable gas key and all of these solutions are really oriented towards set it once and then be done with it for initial tuning. The only thing that appears to be oriented towards what I’m trying to do, which is have an easy swap between suppressed and unsuppressed, is the noveske switch block but it doesn’t fit under my hand guards.
I think I’m going to make the set screw a hex screw so I can more easily adjust it but I’d bet that it’ll just seize up at some point in the future so I’ll probably default to leaving on the unsuppressed setting to make sure it cycles. |
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Posted: 4/13/2021 8:39:57 AM EDT
[#28]
I have an uninstalled
Strike Industries Collar Adj block It has a ring that has a selections of ports that rotate inline with the gas tube https://www.strikeindustries.com/si-ar-cagb.html |
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Posted: 4/13/2021 9:46:19 AM EDT
[#29]
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Posted: 4/13/2021 1:37:50 PM EDT
[#30]
I ran into the same issue with my 11.5 pin and welded upper. Installed a Superlative block and machined a groove into the flats of the muzzle brake for clearance for the wrench.
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Posted: 4/13/2021 6:28:45 PM EDT
[#31]
I have three rifles equipped with the SLR AGB and a drop or two of CLP on/in the adjustment screw keeps them operational for me. nothing stuck and that's shooting suppressed full time. Having said that, I do like the Bootleg Adjustable Carrier better. You can simply switch it in ten seconds.
This would be the best use for you IMO, as you can easily go from suppressed to non suppressed very quickly. |
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Posted: 4/14/2021 1:07:00 AM EDT
[#32]
Contact Todd at SLR and ask for spare rebuild parts. Hell give you whatever you want within reason.
An AGB takes a small amount of maintenance. Every 1000 rounds or so, add any type of oil to the fastener threads, adjust in, adjust out. Good to go. Kroil is a joke. Soak the end of your barrel in Chem-Dip carb cleaner for 6-12 hours and the adjustment fastener will move freely. If you abuse the internals, disassemble and check the health of your ball bearing, detent and the adjustment fastener. Gas will eventually begin eroding the adjustment fastener. Check for function afterward and replace parts if refurbishing fails to restore condition to feeling like new. |
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Posted: 4/14/2021 6:12:55 AM EDT
[#33]
Option 2. Set to minimum for unsuppressed and leave it. You won't feel the difference between the suppressed optimized and unsuppressed optimized setting if you have a lighter carrier and standard spring. You won't get excessive gas to face etc.
If you shoot subs (300 BLK), the Superlative Arms gas block set to vent will produce a lot of gas block port pop. For supers you would not notice but it will reduce the gas delta between suppressed and unsuppressed for a super only set and forget setup. I gave up on a reliable suppressed and unsuppressed setting long ago. It is not a reliable or worthwhile endeavor IMO. An over gassed unsuppressed rifle with a can is horrible to shoot. A well gassed unsuppressed rifle is fine with a can. Eventually the switching between suppressed and unsuppressed settings always gets stuck or caused me some other heartache. I say just avoid it. If you are really anal, a gas block set to unsuppressed minimum and the adjustable carrier to cut it to suppressed levels seems like a viable idea. You also might consider a lightweight carrier for unsuppressed and a full weight carrier for shooting with your can using the same gas block setting for unsuppressed. |
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Posted: 4/14/2021 1:02:42 PM EDT
[#34]
Or if you're intent on abusing the SLR gb by not maintaining it, ditch it and find a MicroMOA Govnah and have your two or three modes and be done. I like as few proprietary parts as I can manage and that definitely goes for adjustable gas tubes and carriers.
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