Hi All,

I'm new here. Not new to firearms in general. However, I am new to ARs and building them. I'm looking for muzzle device recommendations. I live in a communist state and don't have the luxury of having a removal muzzle device so the one I choose will have to be pinned and welded - making it kind of permanent. If the background of my build is important to your suggestions, this is what I have so far:

1. AP M4E1 stripped lower
2. AP Standard AR15 stripped upper
3. AP lower parts kit
4. Fail Zero BCG (on the way)
5. BA .223 Wylde 1/8 Stainless Steel barrel at 20"

Thanks in advance.

I just put a thread protector on my 20.  It is long enough already.

A2 Birdcage

Find one of these.

https://www.brownells.com/rifle-parts/muzzle-devices/compensators-amp-muzzle-brakes/battlecomp-1-5-22-caliberbattlecomp-1-5-22-caliber-prod86713.aspx

Assuming your state bans flash hiders, you have 3 choices:

Thread protector - simple, inexpensive, no recoil or muzzle rise control, doesn't need to be timed, doesn't re-direct concussion to the sides.

Muzzle brake - huge variety, can reduce recoil and/or muzzle rise, generally re-directs concussion to the side, which can be annoying to painful to your neighbors at the range, or to you if you shoot with walls next to you.  Search on this forum, or on the web for best muzzle brakes and prepare for a ton of reading.

Linear compensator - doesn't need to be timed (generally), redirects flash and concussion out the front, generally increasing felt recoil but reducing the sound and concussion you and your neighbors hear and feel.

As a Californian, where we can't have flash hiders (including muzzle brakes that include any flash reduction) but don't need to p&w beyond 16", I mostly use thread protectors.  I'm working on an AR15M4 build that needs a muzzle device to look more authentic, and am wobbling between a muzzle brake and a linear comp.  I'd rather avoid the extra concussion of a muzzle brake (my tinnitus is well fed already), but the better rated linear comps all look like space gun gear.  For now, I have a thread protector.

What does "timed" mean? I live in NJ and need to replace flash hider on a threaded barrel as well. Don't want to pin and weld anything since may move to a "free" state soon and don't feel like screwing up the threads. Thanks!

Anyone know if in NJ I can use thread protector on 16" AR ?

Cherry Bomb!

Attached File

Look at these - They look like fun:
http://www.kineti-tech.com/ar-15/
I bought one but have yet to install and try it.

Considering NJ, I read the law on the conservative side since I wouldn’t fair well in prison. Any threaded barrel is illegal. Therefore, something must be pin and welded.

Considering NJ, I read the law on the conservative side since I wouldn’t fair well in prison. Any threaded barrel is illegal. Therefore, something must be pin and welded.

Too many to list.

But, YHM QD brake mount and then cap it with their linear blast can. Later you can then use a YHM QD suppressor.

Timed means lining up the features on the muzzle device so they point in the right direction.

A brake typically doesn't have holes on the bottom, because the muzzle blast from them kick up dust and grit, and can damage anything that's under the barrel, like a bench or whatever.  Some have holes all the way around, though.

A crush washer or shims are used for this - you install the device, tighten it, then continue to turn it until the holes are all oriented correctly.  Lots of videos and sites with info on this - search for muzzle brake crush washer or muzzle brake shims:
https://kahntrol.com/index.php/faq/how-to-install-a-muzzle-brake-or-flash-hider-using-a-crush-washer/

Thread protectors and linear comps don't typically have external holes, so you just tighten them to the required spec and it's good to go.

Pinning and welding is a whole 'nother issue.  If you're not into drilling and welding steel, it's  best to have a pro do it for you.  

I don't know about NJ, but in California, the legal definition of a flash hider isn't clear, so it's important to buy a device that doesn't claim any flash reduction at all for plausible deniability.  YMMV, as always.

As another option, you can get a muzzle device that uses a shroud. It would add a little flexibility to a device that's pin and welded.

http://www.kineti-tech.com/kineti-tech-muzzle-brake-with-sound-redirect-with-13-16-x-16-threaded-sleeve-2-piece/

I P/W'ed a BRT comp to a 14.5" barrel to make it legal length. I have these on a couple rifles. 6.8 and 223. Lightweight and not too costly. Your neighbor at the range and hunting partner will appreciate it. https://blackrivertactical.ecwid.com/Muzzle-Devices-c1799361

On a 20” a muzzle brake just adds length, weight, and obnoxious concussion. Linear comps won’t throw as much concussion, but are still virtually useless.  If it were me I’d have a thread protector turned to match the barrel profile and high temp silver solder it on, then paint exposed barrel to match.

This was exactly the feedback I was looking for. I’m new to the AR platform. Is a muzzle device even necessary for a 20” barrel? Since I live in NJ and a threaded barrel is illegal, I only want to have the pin/weld done once. Just looking to experienced members for real feedback...

Thanks!

you might consider getting a 1/2 x 28tpi mild steel nut then turn down the o.d. to match barrel contour , then solder or pin it and cold blue it

hard to beat a smith vortex  imo

A muzzle device isn’t necessary. At night even a 20” will put out enough flash with most ammo to interrupt night adapted vision. Expensive LE loads can use flash inhibiting powder and those are low flash in a 20” even without a flash hider, but ammo choice availability and expense sucks currently. FHs aren’t on your plate anyway.

Many brakes with upper compensating ports that work well to keep a muzzle flat on a 16” will actually push a muzzle down on a 20”, and are both flashy and concussive. Brakes are good for competition where fast double taps help score in a timed game. A 20” build isn’t normally a gamer build as the longer barrel is slower to swing and has more momentum to control to not overshoot/swing past target transitions.  If action matches are in your future a lighter 16” barrel is better. Faxon even has one with integral slimline brake but finding one in stock is unlikely right now.

Try posting in the NJ hometown forum. Other in-state folks have probably faced the same issue and might have more ideas.

You could just have a smith turn the threads clean off and crown the barrel. Might be more cost effective and produce better accuracy over rolling the dice on a brake.