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Posted: 8/3/2020 10:11:25 PM EDT
[#1]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Weapon shield CLP and grease works awesome,always has. |
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Posted: 8/3/2020 11:32:20 PM EDT
[#2]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I used to use oil on my ARs mainly but I recently switched to SuperLube grease and mix it with HbN and WS2 for increased heat resistance, increased tackiness, reduced friction, and increased corrosion resistance. When I shoot, it doesn't burn off, it stays put, has no smell, and lubricates and protects well. It's also non-toxic, safe, and not hazardous. Only problem is when I put WS2 in it, it gets messy because it's black in color. Otherwise, it's clear in color. This is my new favorite and it's cheaper than other options. A little goes a long way. Warmer environment Superlube grease works great. Really sheds water and doesn't wash off in a wet environment. Starts getting a bit sluggish as temp goes below 20 degrees or so though. Wipe it down to a very thin coat if you need to use it in the cold. |
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Posted: 8/13/2020 4:12:29 PM EDT
[#3]
I think it's been mentioned on this thread and others, but if you haven't read it yet, the "history of Gun Lubes" on the cherrybalm web site is really interesting and informative, and might change your thinking about oil vs. grease for guns. Long story short, oil is designed to flow; and it picks up and suspends contaminants. It can dry out or burn off under high heat. It's a good choice for closed systems where the parts rotate and you have a reserve capacity and a filtration system (like an engine crankcase) . Grease is made to stay where you put it, not evaporate or harden. It works well in places where parts are subjected to quick heavy impacts, it actually helps contaminants migrate away from the bearing area. and it resists burn-off. When you think about it, by nature, oil "wants" to go somewhere else; grease wants to stay where it is.
In working on my own cars, small engines and bicycles over the years, I'd observed what kinds of things used oil and which used grease, but I never applied that same thinking to guns. I'm now convinced grease has a place on guns, and I'm beginning to use it on things like AR bolt carriers and bolts, and 1911 rails. If you clean and lube your guns regularly, say every 100 rounds or so, and the gun doesn't get hot enough for the oil to burn off, just about any oil will work well. I've used Hoppes and CLP for years; I seldom shoot more than 50-75 rounds out of any one gun between cleanings, so oil has worked fine. But if I happen to run through a lot of ammo on a particular day, I feel better knowing the lube won't burn off my bolt carrier or the slide rails won't run dry. |
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Posted: 8/13/2020 5:28:47 PM EDT
[#4]
Funny thing I noticed recently. Took my suppressed SR15 CQB out shooting, lubed with CherryBalmz, and after about 3 mags there was no grease to be found. This gun uses a chrome Sandcutter so I’m wondering if the cutting effect it would have on sand/debris is doing the same thing to the grease and just removing it?
Just food for thought. |
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Posted: 8/13/2020 5:45:16 PM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Funny thing I noticed recently. Took my suppressed SR15 CQB out shooting, lubed with CherryBalmz, and after about 3 mags there was no grease to be found. This gun uses a chrome Sandcutter so I’m wondering if the cutting effect it would have on sand/debris is doing the same thing to the grease and just removing it? Just food for thought. I noticed that even CB would burn off the bolt tail and bolt contact surface after just 100 rds like any other lube will, but it did stay on the outer surface of the carrier rails and inside the upper and CH. Did you notice any grease in between the sandcutter rails on the carrier? Or was it all completely gone? |
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Posted: 8/13/2020 5:56:47 PM EDT
[#6]
Mobil 1
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Posted: 8/13/2020 6:02:05 PM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryQuoted: CherryBalmz |
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Posted: 8/13/2020 9:47:13 PM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I think it's been mentioned on this thread and others, but if you haven't read it yet, the "history of Gun Lubes" on the cherrybalm web site is really interesting and informative, and might change your thinking about oil vs. grease for guns. Long story short, oil is designed to flow; and it picks up and suspends contaminants. It can dry out or burn off under high heat. It's a good choice for closed systems where the parts rotate and you have a reserve capacity and a filtration system (like an engine crankcase) . Grease is made to stay where you put it, not evaporate or harden. It works well in places where parts are subjected to quick heavy impacts, it actually helps contaminants migrate away from the bearing area. and it resists burn-off. When you think about it, by nature, oil "wants" to go somewhere else; grease wants to stay where it is. In working on my own cars, small engines and bicycles over the years, I'd observed what kinds of things used oil and which used grease, but I never applied that same thinking to guns. I'm now convinced grease has a place on guns, and I'm beginning to use it on things like AR bolt carriers and bolts, and 1911 rails. If you clean and lube your guns regularly, say every 100 rounds or so, and the gun doesn't get hot enough for the oil to burn off, just about any oil will work well. I've used Hoppes and CLP for years; I seldom shoot more than 50-75 rounds out of any one gun between cleanings, so oil has worked fine. But if I happen to run through a lot of ammo on a particular day, I feel better knowing the lube won't burn off my bolt carrier or the slide rails won't run dry. The ones I dont clean, I use mil spec LSA.. Its a thick oil. Works great, if you can find it.. |
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Posted: 8/14/2020 12:52:31 AM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Funny thing I noticed recently. Took my suppressed SR15 CQB out shooting, lubed with CherryBalmz, and after about 3 mags there was no grease to be found. This gun uses a chrome Sandcutter so I’m wondering if the cutting effect it would have on sand/debris is doing the same thing to the grease and just removing it? Just food for thought. Interesting. I use CB on my SR-15 carbine (14.5”) with Sandcutter and it’s great. It’s definitely there after shooting. If anything the Sandcutter holds on to it better. Did you use plenty? |
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Posted: 8/14/2020 1:01:51 AM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I have certain guns I use all year and dont clean and others I clean every time. The ones I dont clean, I use mil spec LSA.. Its a thick oil. Works great, if you can find it.. Tell me more about the LSA. I found the NSN numbers for the different sizes and from what I can find it’s Castrol Braycote 646. What does yours look like? |
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Posted: 8/14/2020 6:25:06 AM EDT
[#11]
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Posted: 8/14/2020 9:36:03 PM EDT
[#12]
Quoted: I noticed that even CB would burn off the bolt tail and bolt contact surface after just 100 rds like any other lube will, but it did stay on the outer surface of the carrier rails and inside the upper and CH. Did you notice any grease in between the sandcutter rails on the carrier? Or was it all completely gone? Quoted: Interesting. I use CB on my SR-15 carbine (14.5”) with Sandcutter and it’s great. It’s definitely there after shooting. If anything the Sandcutter holds on to it better. Did you use plenty? Yep, I used quite a bit. None on the inside of the upper or the rails on the carrier, but the bolt still had some on it. It sure what to think. Maybe the can (Recce 5) has more back pressure than the CQB was designed for? I can say it stays on great on my SR15 Carbine with a standard carrier running a SOCOM RC, and my home build Noveske 10.5 stainless with the SOCOM as well 
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Posted: 8/16/2020 3:16:16 PM EDT
[#13]
Slip 2000 EWL Grease and EWL 30.
I tried tw25B and WANTED to like it, but it separated on me in numerous containers. One container was a clear bottle with a needle-point applicator. I could not get the stuff back in solution. I keep wanting to give it another try, but my previous experience prevents me from doing so. |
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Posted: 8/16/2020 9:26:32 PM EDT
[#14]
OP I know I posted one of my preferred lubes a bit earlier on in this thread and since then I have been experimenting with Breakfree LP with good results. It is thicker than Breakfree CLP and stays put better.
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Posted: 8/18/2020 12:38:25 AM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted: OP I know I posted one of my preferred lubes a bit earlier on in this thread and since then I have been experimenting with Breakfree LP with good results. It is thicker than Breakfree CLP and stays put better. Yeah I’ve seen folks speak highly of it on the BITOG (Bob Oil Guy) forum. I’m not a fan of CLP anymore for anything. The LP is a different story though. |
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Posted: 9/20/2020 7:17:10 AM EDT
[#16]
I’ve tried many brands of CLP . A lot of types of grease. I have most of the brands many speak of. But my go to clp is still Break free . The style in the gallon jug . Works like it’s suppose to. My go to lube only is Break free LP. I still dabble with the other lubes from time to time. I use go juice on my glocks. Go juice Lights grease on My 1911’s. LSA on my roller lock hk rifles, and FALs . M14’s and garands, get plastilube. Ar’s, aug, Tavor gets Breakfree LP . Everything gets cleaned and wiped down with BF clp. If I only could have one set , it would be the Breakfree group. Cheers Wardawg
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Posted: 9/20/2020 8:52:24 AM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Mobil 1 I’ve been using on a quart of that for many years When the subject of lubricants comes up, I think of what Charles Petty (American Rifleman writer) asked when shown a new miracle lubricant: If a gun is not functioning with standard lubes, will it start running properly with the new oil? If the gun is functioning with the new oil, will it have problems if switched to a standard lube? |
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Posted: 9/20/2020 12:59:15 PM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I’ve tried many brands of CLP . A lot of types of grease. I have most of the brands many speak of. But my go to clp is still Break free . The style in the gallon jug . Works like it’s suppose to. My go to lube only is Break free LP. I still dabble with the other lubes from time to time. I use go juice on my glocks. Go juice Lights grease on My 1911’s. LSA on my roller lock hk rifles, and FALs . M14’s and garands, get plastilube. Ar’s, aug, Tavor gets Breakfree LP . Everything gets cleaned and wiped down with BF clp. If I only could have one set , it would be the Breakfree group. Cheers Wardawg I use Breakfree exclusively to clean and in the bore. For everything else, I use grease. Grease seems to protect the bore much better than CLP and it doesn't move. People say that grease in the bore or chamber causes overpressure, but I've never had issues. I love Breakfree however. Lately I've experimented with adding HbN (for corrosion inhibition and chemical stability), WS2 (for heat resistance and lubrication), PTFE (corrosion inhibition and lubrication), and peppermint oil (slight viscosity reduction, corrosion inhibition, and scent) in grease. I've had real good results. Studies show peppermint oil is a "green" solution for corrosion inhibition and naturally hydrophobic. Crazy thing is that when the grease gets super hot, the "oil/grease" burns away and leaves a very very every thin and lubricious dry layer of the above (minus peppermint because it's thermal stability is not very high) to continue to protect and lube the metal. |
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Posted: 9/20/2020 11:00:57 PM EDT
[#19]
After almost a year of using CB and having some guns in storage that were “lubed” with it, I did notice that while it doesn’t dry up by any means, it does seem to change viscosity just a tad. I left one with dust cover open and the BCG rail facing the ejection port did seem to need some reapplying. Not enough reason for concern, just a note. Still better than the ones I’ve used oil on, as after a year oil is all but disappeared.
I’m trying Sprinco Machine Gunners lube on an AR and a Glock right now. In my few months of using it, it definitely stays put more than SLIP or any CLP, LP I’ve personally used. |
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Posted: 9/25/2020 11:13:35 PM EDT
[#20]
I shoot a lot even during these times. My average round count is 1k a month. I use whatever is free and around. Have never noticed any difference.
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Posted: 9/30/2020 9:37:04 AM EDT
[#21]
I have recently acquired some Radcolube CLP which I am going to test out on the AR platforms. From what I can find on it, it is better than the original stuff, and not as thick. It also does not separate like the first generation
military issued CLP. |
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Posted: 9/30/2020 10:14:46 AM EDT
[#22]
Another vote for Slip 2000. Though I've personally been using synthetic diesel engine oil for 10 years and I prefer it for multiple reasons.
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Posted: 10/3/2020 7:09:27 AM EDT
[#23]
I've gone around and around on different kinds of lubes over the years but the products I returned back to repeatedly are TW25B for a lightweight grease, Super Lube oil which is a thick oil similar to LSA, and Break-Free CLP. Speaking of CLP, the latest revision F Break-Free is the best I've used so far. It cleans well, has no perceptive smell, and hangs around longer than previous versions.
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Posted: 10/6/2020 5:22:58 PM EDT
[#24]
Synthetic Wheel Bearing Grease. $7 gets you enough to last a lifetime.
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Posted: 10/9/2020 10:59:34 AM EDT
[#25]
Slip 2000 EWL. It stays put much longer than CLP.
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Posted: 10/18/2020 4:23:29 PM EDT
[#26]
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Posted: 11/30/2020 3:42:35 PM EDT
[#27]
So School of American Rifle did a video on his home brew lube. Easy and I'm sure it works great. Not as thick as grease, not as runny as oil. This dude knows his stuff so I wouldn't hesitate to trust it.
 Home Brew AR Lube & AR Lubrication |
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Posted: 11/30/2020 10:27:49 PM EDT
[#28]
I use Clenzoil and it works great as a lube and a cleaner. Carbon wipes off very easily after a range session.
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Posted: 11/30/2020 10:57:48 PM EDT
[#29]
I've gravitated to the Wilson combat lubes or the Lucas oil lubes.
My current favorite is the Lucas oil. https://lucasoil.com/products/out-door-line/extreme-duty-gun-oil  Attached FileLucas Extreme Duty Gun Oil is a special blend of oil and petroleum-extracted additives producing a lubrication specially formulated for high volume, high heat and friction firearms. Lucas Extreme Duty Gun Oil is designed for semi-auto rifles, shotguns and pistols as well as full auto firearms and suppressors. It offers superior burn-off resistance. Its polymeric film protects metal from rust, moisture and dramatically reduces wear during all shooting conditions. Applying Lucas Extreme Duty Gun Oil to bores, bolt carriers and gas pistons makes clean-up of powder residue, copper and carbon fouling a much easier task. Apply a light coat to suppressor baffles and mounts to resist carbon build up and to make cleaning quicker and easier. It neutralizes acids from fingerprints and resists drying for long term storage use. Lucas Extreme Duty Gun Oil is great for lubrication on all high heat high use firearms and NFA items. |
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Posted: 11/30/2020 11:24:52 PM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I've gravitated to the Wilson combat lubes or the Lucas oil lubes. My current favorite is the Lucas oil. https://lucasoil.com/products/out-door-line/extreme-duty-gun-oil https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/322543/Screenshot_20201130-215703_Chrome_jpg-1709217.JPG I checked out the Wilson lubes this summer and am sticking with them now after noticing they were not burning off as early as the Lucas extreme. The Wilson universal is thicker like the Lucas but it seemed to stay put longer. Their grease is like SLP 30 weight and their regular oil is thinner. I'm pretty happy with them so far. |
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Posted: 11/30/2020 11:47:25 PM EDT
[#31]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I checked out the Wilson lubes this summer and am sticking with them now after noticing they were not burning off as early as the Lucas extreme. The Wilson universal is thicker like the Lucas but it seemed to stay put longer. Their grease is like SLP 30 weight and their regular oil is thinner. I'm pretty happy with them so far. I actually use a combination of different lubes. I use the Wilson grease on my bolt, but use the Lucas stuff pretty much everywhere else. Hell, there doesn't really seem to be a pattern really. I just randomly use the Lucas and the Wilson lubes and greases almost interchangeably. The only real consistency is I always use the Wilson grease on the bolts. I've got all the Wilson lubes and they're definitely good lubes.  Attached File |
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Posted: 12/3/2020 12:30:13 AM EDT
[#32]
I have used them all, and made many along the way, including using oils & lithium/cobalt greases each with MoS2 or WS2 powders mixed in, and a few cots dry lube products.
Any synth EP hi temp grease will work where grease is needed. Any full synth motor oil will work where oil is needed. Use sparingly. The firearm should function 100% dry. Lubes just make it run smoother. If you want to get fancy, specialty MolyKote treatment lubes from DuPont (formerly DOW) can be used, which makes the dry gun a bit smoother. |
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Posted: 12/4/2020 1:22:55 PM EDT
[#33]
I laughed when I saw this topic, because it's obvious at first glance that it is the kind that will garner a ton of replies. That's because it's super easy to opine on: Buy a lube, use it, witness the world not ending, then emotionally imbibe that product and become a de-facto endorser. People meld their egos with the products they choose to buy and use, and I'm tired of no one acknowledging this.
I've wasted a huge amount of cash on absolute garbage products... Phew, that was liberating to admit to. I have been using Breakthrough Clean's products because they're non-toxic, because they have worked really well for me so far, and because they readily publish safety data sheets and technical data sheets (SDS and TDS). It also helps that they're very responsive to inquiries. Some other makers not only don't publish TDS with ASTM data, they refuse to produce them even upon request. I will never use a lubricant that I can't review, for example, four-ball wear test results on. Why would I? Why would someone produce a lubricant and either not have it tested, or have it tested, but then avoid publishing the test results? I can think of a couple reasons... I've noticed how rude people get when arguing about this barrel or that hand guard or this BCG or that trigger or what have you... That's because even though those are physical items that can be objectively measured, it just doesn't happen that way. So, with those things, we work with subjective impressions instead. It's not as easy to do that with oil. Of course there are a ton of alternatives that meet my requirements... I'm not saying there aren't. But lubricants can be proven to be safe and effective with data. Show me, don't tell me. The only thing left to discuss should be cost. Show me an oil that is as safe and effective as Breakthrough Clean HD Pro and cheaper, and I'll switch in a heartbeat. |
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Posted: 12/6/2020 1:13:51 AM EDT
[#34]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I laughed when I saw this topic, because it's obvious at first glance that it is the kind that will garner a ton of replies. That's because it's super easy to opine on: Buy a lube, use it, witness the world not ending, then emotionally imbibe that product and become a de-facto endorser. People meld their egos with the products they choose to buy and use, and I'm tired of no one acknowledging this. I've wasted a huge amount of cash on absolute garbage products... Phew, that was liberating to admit to. I have been using Breakthrough Clean's products because they're non-toxic, because they have worked really well for me so far, and because they readily publish safety data sheets and technical data sheets (SDS and TDS). It also helps that they're very responsive to inquiries. Some other makers not only don't publish TDS with ASTM data, they refuse to produce them even upon request. I will never use a lubricant that I can't review, for example, four-ball wear test results on. Why would I? Why would someone produce a lubricant and either not have it tested, or have it tested, but then avoid publishing the test results? I can think of a couple reasons... I've noticed how rude people get when arguing about this barrel or that hand guard or this BCG or that trigger or what have you... That's because even though those are physical items that can be objectively measured, it just doesn't happen that way. So, with those things, we work with subjective impressions instead. It's not as easy to do that with oil. Of course there are a ton of alternatives that meet my requirements... I'm not saying there aren't. But lubricants can be proven to be safe and effective with data. Show me, don't tell me. The only thing left to discuss should be cost. Show me an oil that is as safe and effective as Breakthrough Clean HD Pro and cheaper, and I'll switch in a heartbeat. How's it working for long term storage? Like a month or two? I tried it a couple years ago and it gummed up on me just like frog lube did. The guns I used weekly were fine with it, but it burned up very quickly. I'm wondering if they may have changed the formula, since you seem to like it? I think back then it was plant based like FL and Fireclean which caused them too gum up pretty good when they sat for more than a couple weeks. |
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Posted: 12/6/2020 9:45:06 PM EDT
[#35]
Quote HistoryQuoted: How's it working for long term storage? Like a month or two? I tried it a couple years ago and it gummed up on me just like frog lube did. The guns I used weekly were fine with it, but it burned up very quickly. I'm wondering if they may have changed the formula, since you seem to like it? I think back then it was plant based like FL and Fireclean which caused them too gum up pretty good when they sat for more than a couple weeks. |
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Posted: 12/6/2020 10:05:01 PM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I've never had either of those issues at all. I'm still using the HP Pro oil I bought in early and late 2017. Maybe they had QC issues? No idea. I have their solvent and hp pro on the way. Going to give it another shot and do a test on it comparing to what I already have. They didn't have HP Pro at the time when I first tried it. The original high purity oil was what got all gummy on me. It was weird being that the viscosity is so thin on that one. |
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Posted: 12/6/2020 10:16:52 PM EDT
[#37]
For oil I like Breakfree LP. It does a pretty good job on the P part. Some guns dont get shot. I take them out 1-2 times a year and wipe them down with the LP and it doesnt dry out.
I like the cherrybalmz for most stuff for lube. Im particularly impressed with the rimefire remedy. Ruger MKIV shot suppressed goes a ridiculously long time both before needing more lube, and then needing to be cleaned before returning to normal function. For my ARs I usually clean them just to make myself feel better way before I need to, but I like that I can have a dirty gun with cherrybalmz sit for 2-3 months and work perfectly when I pull it out. For actual cleaning I found the hoppes just makes quick work of most fouling. Im pretty sure its responsible for the coating peeling off on my glock connector, so I no longer use it on that. |
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Posted: 12/7/2020 9:33:09 AM EDT
[#38]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I have their solvent and hp pro on the way. Going to give it another shot and do a test on it comparing to what I already have. They didn't have HP Pro at the time when I first tried it. The original high purity oil was what got all gummy on me. It was weird being that the viscosity is so thin on that one. All of their lubricants are 100% synthetic, though, so I wouldn't expect any of them to ever gum up. May I also add that their product names are idiotic and annoying... |
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Posted: 12/8/2020 9:28:04 AM EDT
[#39]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Mobil 1 |
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Posted: 8/13/2021 6:38:07 AM EDT
[#40]
All good recommendations here. Basically anything that’s 100% synthetic, zero chlorinated esters, and made specifically for guns. Just make sure it’s 100% synthetic. I personally like grease because it stays put, lasts forever, and protects what it’s attached to. Slip2000 EWL grease, Superlube, Redline grease, all are 100% synthetic and last forever. One small bottle will last decades and can be used underwater too.
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Posted: 8/14/2021 12:47:30 AM EDT
[#41]
I’m still a fan of Cherrybalmz and their “Bolt Balm” really is slick on my bolt actions.
However, I’ve been exclusively using the Mobil 1 Synthetic grease and Mobil 1 synthetic oil mixture for the AR’s and Glocks and it’s what I’ll stick with going forward. It’s safe, stays put, and you can control the viscosity for your environment. |
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Posted: 8/14/2021 1:14:37 AM EDT
[#42]
Any pure synthetic high viscosity motor oil will revive contamination, minimize carbon and make cleaning easier. It’s also 1/10th the cost of its gun specific counterparts.
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Posted: 8/15/2021 11:39:16 PM EDT
[#43]
Lucas Extreme Green is thick enough to stick.
I use kroil to get in deep if I need something thin. If my handguns are real dirty I spray them out with brake cleaner. Hit with kroil, wipe clean then lucas extreme since the kroil is pretty thin and half of it flashes off. |
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Posted: 9/13/2021 6:01:24 PM EDT
[#44]
Anyone tried StrikeHold. I'm going to give it a shot. I have used all the above and with same results. CorrosionX and machine gunners lube has worked pretty well over the years.
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Posted: 9/14/2021 12:06:11 AM EDT
[#45]
John Deere Cornhead Grease.
It’s more like a thick gear lube than a solid grease. Seriously…it’s amazing. |
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Posted: 9/14/2021 12:32:34 AM EDT
[#46]
Trying Lubriplate Grease and Oil the past few weeks. Still in testing for me.
Whatever type of oil you use if you have it in a bulk container these bottles are great:  Attached File |
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Posted: 9/14/2021 12:20:41 PM EDT
[#47]
For grease, I purchased disposable syringes, and non-sharpened, large bore (14 ga.) needles off eBay.
Use them for multiple grease varieties. To fill them, I have a length of brass hobby tubing (K&S), with an aluminum rod 'plunger' that fits the ID of the tube. With the rod inserted into the tube so the the tips of both are even, they are put in contact with the surface of the grease, and while holding the rod at that level, the tube is pushed into the grease. When they are pulled out, the tube is filled without air bubbles, and is then easily injected into the top side of the syringe. Besides needles & syringes, they also have screw-on caps for the syringes, and many sizes of the push-on rubber caps for the needles. |
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Posted: 9/14/2021 12:45:42 PM EDT
[#48]
Quote HistoryQuoted: CherryBalmz Yup, especially for suppressed. |
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Posted: 9/14/2021 12:49:47 PM EDT
[#49]
On a side note, grease is a bit sub optimal in the AR.
It is discussed above...but grease tends to sugar cookie with grit and carbon. All lubes do to a degree, but grease can almost become a lapping compound with it. Try it suppressed for a quick lesson. At most, the lubes labeled "Semi Fluid" are about as thick as I would go. I have run them a good bit and they work...but aren't superior overall. Cornhead grease is great for firearms and I use it occasionally, but regular CLP works fine too. I somewhat don't get why this is an issue. You can take an AR lubed wet with basic CLP and run it for more ammo than you can carry in mags...as in 750 rounds or more...with no lube related issues. Add a few drops more and you are in business. Grease doesn't improve that... YMMV. |
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Posted: 9/15/2021 11:39:33 PM EDT
[#50]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Any pure synthetic high viscosity motor oil will revive contamination, minimize carbon and make cleaning easier. It’s also 1/10th the cost of its gun specific counterparts. What would you fellas recommend as a good "high viscosity" weight? 10-W30 seems a bit thin and wants to run. |
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