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I use Tetra oil and grease. I've done exactly as you have said, lubed it, stored it for a couple months, then took it to the range. No problem. I've tried... I have no idea how many lubes and settled on Tetra. I've tried more than a couple after I started using it and have gone back every time.
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Quoted:
I use Tetra oil and grease. I've done exactly as you have said, lubed it, stored it for a couple months, then took it to the range. No problem. I've tried... I have no idea how many lubes and settled on Tetra. I've tried more than a couple after I started using it and have gone back every time. View Quote |
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I’m in a similar position. I’ve long been a Slip EWL user. Still love the stuff. But, it tends to migrate a little too much (IMHO) on the rifles stored in an upright position. Although, I do think it could be my “fault”. As it’s the most prevalent with my ARs that sit with the bolt locked to the rear (done so to make things simpler for my wife in the event of a HD scenario).
Anywho...I recently picked up some Go Juice. Specifically, the “very thin grease” type. Started by trying it on just one AR. And I think it’s going to be a winner. Won’t replace my Slip EWL entirely. But the Go Juice VTG is definitely earning a spot in the rotation. Setting aside the fact that it looks to have solved my “problem”, it’s proving to be an excellent lube. |
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Since my supply of left over issued CLP is dwindling down to my last few ounces, I've been looking for a suitable replacement that will clean, lube and protect. Up until this weekend I have been using 5W Rotella T6, and it is a helluva lube and nothing will rust with it, but it is lacking as a cleaner, and I normally have some left over from when I change the oil in my truck. Well, since I also shoot black powder, both muzzleloaders and cartridge rifles, I bought a can of Ballistol to use in cleaning those. On a whim I cleaned and relubed my A4 to try the Ballistol, just because I like to experiment. Not only did that A4 run perfectly, as they always do, the bolt stayed wet, and this next part really blew me a way, I have never in 32 years of cleaning dirty AR type rifles, had one that cleaned up so easily. Every trace of carbon wiped easily away with a rag and Qtips. No brushing and no scraping. All the fouling was soft or liquidy. And to solidify my new found love for this stuff, I just cleaned a 50 year old .22 I've had for a while, that up to this point has been a basket case. Dark sewer pipe for a bore, big 25 yd groups. 1 wet patch and a bore brush pulled thru after a few minutes and I found the bore was leaded up pretty bad. It now looks bright and shiney. I literally pulled large flakes of lead out that Hoppes, CLP, RemOil, Frog lube oil and a couple other would never touch. I'm not making this up. View Quote |
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To the folks that have ordered from Cherrybalmz....how long did it take for them to ship after ordering?
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To the folks that have ordered from Cherrybalmz....how long did it take for them to ship after ordering? View Quote If you find yourself waiting too long, let me know and I'll kick you a bottle. |
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Quoted: First time I ordered was during a big rush from Reddit orders plus a shipping system snafu and it took around three weeks but they kicked in another free bottle. Ordered a five-pack last winter and it took between five and ten business days. If you find yourself waiting too long, let me know and I'll kick you a bottle. View Quote Just curious. I completely stripped and cleaned two carbines and am going to hold off on putting them back together till the CB comes in. |
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Quoted: I know a lot of folks who swear by Ballistol. Cool thing (IIRC) is that it can double as an antiseptic. View Quote |
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I’ve decided on both types of CherryBalmz black rifle grease. Plan on running it entirely on a 14.5” middy and 10.3” Carbine. Should have it next week and will report back after I get a few hundred rounds through it.
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I take it LSA weapons oil is way outdated I see no one uses it.
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Quoted: I'm an industrial machinist and light cuts and scrapes are a reality, and I can attest that it does work as an antiseptic, just tried it this week since I keep a small battle of it at work to clean my tools with. The cut never showed any sign of infection just the same as the other antiseptics. View Quote |
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Quoted: I'm an industrial machinist and light cuts and scrapes are a reality, and I can attest that it does work as an antiseptic, just tried it this week since I keep a small battle of it at work to clean my tools with. The cut never showed any sign of infection just the same as the other antiseptics. View Quote |
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My patrol rifle spends a lot of time in my trunk, in the heat. My duty gun often spends a lot of time in the sun, as do I. I am always looking for something that will stay put in the heat from that as well as from being fired.
This summer I have been trying Geissele Go-Juice grease. So far, so good. It has not pooled on one side of the upper (like lividity in a body) from laying in the case in the heat, and the same for oozing out of my duty gun. So far I have had the same result with my MP5 that runs best a little on the wet side. It is staying where it should be so far, but the summer ain't over yet. Prior to this I have used Wilson Combat grease in the summer and back to a traditional oil in the winter. I'm not sold on it yet, but it looks like it has potential. |
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I ordered one of the free samples of the cherry balmz grease when I came across this thread previously and I am very satisfied with it so far. I didn’t expect it to smell delicious but then again, I should have due to the name of the company. I also saw a post from the battlefield Vegas dude in his massive thread about what oil he uses and he had mentioned he had just tried out the Lucas oil (possibly a several year old post) and was highly satisfied with it (I think his armorers said it didn’t burn off nearly as fast as the previous stuff they were using). I had just ordered the cherry balmz and came across the Lucas gun oil at Orielly auto parts for about $5 for a 4oz or so bottle that has a great needle point applicator. I picked one up to use as oil and have applied it to a couple guns but haven’t shot it yet. It’s fairly viscous so it can penetrate and act as a proper oil while the cherry balmz black rifle (I think that’s what it’s called) is definitely thicker, almost like a nail polish, and coats well. Certainly to be treated as a grease. A little seems to go a long way with the cherry balmz.
One interesting thing with the cherry balmz. It warns not to use on sears because it’s too slippery. So of course I lubed up my trigger groups on a couple rifles ( S3g and mbt). What a difference. Pulls and resets are super smooth compared to whatever was on them previously (break free clp possibly). |
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Quoted:
I ordered one of the free samples of the cherry balmz grease when I came across this thread previously and I am very satisfied with it so far. I didn’t expect it to smell delicious but then again, I should have due to the name of the company. I also saw a post from the battlefield Vegas dude in his massive thread about what oil he uses and he had mentioned he had just tried out the Lucas oil (possibly a several year old post) and was highly satisfied with it (I think his armorers said it didn’t burn off nearly as fast as the previous stuff they were using). I had just ordered the cherry balmz and came across the Lucas gun oil at Orielly auto parts for about $5 for a 4oz or so bottle that has a great needle point applicator. I picked one up to use as oil and have applied it to a couple guns but haven’t shot it yet. It’s fairly viscous so it can penetrate and act as a proper oil while the cherry balmz black rifle (I think that’s what it’s called) is definitely thicker, almost like a nail polish, and coats well. Certainly to be treated as a grease. A little seems to go a long way with the cherry balmz. One interesting thing with the cherry balmz. It warns not to use on sears because it’s too slippery. So of course I lubed up my trigger groups on a couple rifles ( S3g and mbt). What a difference. Pulls and resets are super smooth compared to whatever was on them previously (break free clp possibly). View Quote |
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Slide Glide ( lite )
Every semiautomatic I own, I use it in: shotgun, pistol and rifle. Been using it since '05. Extremes of hot and cold. It's always worked. Easy to clean up, too. Used it in my issue pistols and rifles on deployments to Iraq and Afghanistan. I love the stuff. |
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EWL30 on a nitride or chrome carrier will make a rifle so smooth you won't believe it.
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Read this on firearm lubrication:
https://www.grantcunningham.com/2006/05/lubrication-101/ The NGLI-0 grease is available on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01JA5RRGA/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 That 16 oz tub should be nearly a lifetime supply. It doesn't take much. I put little dots of grease on with a 10 ml syringe and large bore needle (guesstimated at a 14 ga needle) and smear it out with a finger. It's thinner and easier to apply than Superlube which someone else recommended. I've been using ATF as gun oil for many years. Ed Harris brought it to the attention of shooters in his formula for Ed's Red and recommended it as a general purpose lubricant as well. I can attest that over time it doesn't get gummy, like some oils. Grease for things that slide like the bolt carrier group and bolt. Oil for things that rotate, e.g. trigger pins. CherryBalmz gives a nice history of gun lubricants: https://www.cherrybalmz.com/history-wwii--emergence-of-newer-lubri |
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Mobil 1 leftover in the bottles after an oil change. Right now that's 0w40. I was using Hoppes 9 but was getting surface rust. Plus it turns to gummy mess after a while in storage.
Another poster said WD-40. Bad idea. It was originally intended as a water displacing surface treatment to keep thin bare sheet steel missile bodies from rusting. Most of the weight of the stuff evaporates leaving behind a very thin film. Not a lubricant. It's also not self healing film like LPS3. |
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Enos Slide Glide
I have been using it for about 11 years. You can get it on Amazon in small tubs and Brownells in tiny tubes... Brian Eno's forum's store has it for sale but I like to just get it on Amazon (supplied by their store). Their store seems a little wonky sometimes. Competition shooters seem to like it so I decided to give it a try. It comes in 3 levels of viscosity: Light, standard, and heavy. Light is for .22s and guns that are tight. Standard for just about everything else. Heavy for hot climates or if you get your guns really hot. I have the light and Standard and its the only grease i will use. It not only makes a gun slicker than snot, it softens recoil. the only problem is that it gets dirty fast but if you clean your gun regularly then it wont matter. I recommend using a toothpick, tiny Flathead screwdriver, and a one of those brushes you use when soldering to apply it. Highly recommend it. I haven't come across anything better. It will make your guns feel nicer. I kid you not. I say, give it a try and if it works you will know. if you dont like it then switch to something else. Get a small tube from Brownells to try it out. edit: For oil, I use Lucas extreme duty. But you asked about something that really stays put. |
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So I’ve started using Cherrybalmz. Both the field grease and black rifle. I’m sold.
Thanks for the recommendations. |
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I have seen some recommendation "M-Pro7". Didn't use it, But, seems good to me.
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Frog lube extreme CLP is amazing and the paste is good to go as well. The extreme stays put pretty good but the paste stays put no doubt. Don't knock it until YOU try it. It works well and I use it with the Froglube solvent for cleaning. I have run rifle courses with nothing but an initial lube of the paste and my stick ran like a champ and I will disclose this was in the summer months. I use the extreme and paste combo now but when it is expected to get cold outside I run just the extreme with excellent results. Just sayin I spent time in the military and we used two different lubes depending upon the extreme environments we may be in. I do not use the liquid Frog lube because it does gum up in my experience when it sets for a week or so. OP, try it and then decide. It is what it is bro. Edited to add content.
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Quoted:
Frog lube extreme CLP is amazing and the paste is good to go as well. The extreme stays put pretty good but the paste stays put no doubt. Don't knock it until YOU try it. It works well and I use it with the Froglube solvent for cleaning. I have run rifle courses with nothing but an initial lube of the paste and my stick ran like a champ and I will disclose this was in the summer months. I use the extreme and paste combo now but when it is expected to get cold outside I run just the extreme with excellent results. Just sayin I spent time in the military and we used two different lubes depending upon the extreme environments we may be in. I do not use the liquid Frog lube because it does gum up in my experience when it sets for a week or so. OP, try it and then decide. It is what it is bro. Edited to add content. View Quote |
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I'm sure you have noticed here that a lot of members are very adamant and defensive about the lube that they have chosen and can get kind of bent out of shape sometimes when somebody mentions they like something better here.
So here's mine I'm using Spartan systems accuracy lube. It's based on a cutting oil that is designed not to burn up when using any kind of drilling or lathing equipment. I've tried a lot of the mentioned lubricants, and they all seem to burn off after only hundred rounds or so, and this stuff doesn't seem to do that, it wipes clean very easily. Even though, it's not a thicker viscosity like a lot of the lubricants that will "stay put” on your weapon it does seem to stay put. The others that I have tried had all ran off after being stored for a period of time. When stored for long periods of time it does not get all goofy or gum up. At full disclaimer though I will mention that they claim that their lube is also good for running down your bore for better accuracy which I think is a load of crap, but I did go ahead and try it, and I am really digging it so far. It has become my go to. OP just about all the lubricants mentioned in this thread will do you fine. This happens to be the one that works for me for my personal use and environment. You'll just have to try a bunch of different ones and see what you like. |
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Quoted:
Since my supply of left over issued CLP is dwindling down to my last few ounces, I've been looking for a suitable replacement that will clean, lube and protect. Up until this weekend I have been using 5W Rotella T6, and it is a helluva lube and nothing will rust with it, but it is lacking as a cleaner, and I normally have some left over from when I change the oil in my truck. Well, since I also shoot black powder, both muzzleloaders and cartridge rifles, I bought a can of Ballistol to use in cleaning those. On a whim I cleaned and relubed my A4 to try the Ballistol, just because I like to experiment. Not only did that A4 run perfectly, as they always do, the bolt stayed wet, and this next part really blew me a way, I have never in 32 years of cleaning dirty AR type rifles, had one that cleaned up so easily. Every trace of carbon wiped easily away with a rag and Qtips. No brushing and no scraping. All the fouling was soft or liquidy. And to solidify my new found love for this stuff, I just cleaned a 50 year old .22 I've had for a while, that up to this point has been a basket case. Dark sewer pipe for a bore, big 25 yd groups. 1 wet patch and a bore brush pulled thru after a few minutes and I found the bore was leaded up pretty bad. It now looks bright and shiney. I literally pulled large flakes of lead out that Hoppes, CLP, RemOil, Frog lube oil and a couple other would never touch. I'm not making this up. View Quote |
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SLP2000 EWL 30. Sully introduced me to it in an armorer class a year ago. Put it to the test in an instructor school. Cleaned and lubed the rifle, 20 rounds to rough sight the irons and optic. Didnt clean it and ran just under 3000 rounds through it in 5 days. Rain and sun. By the end of day 3 guys guns were going down. By day 5 it was a nightmare. Mine ran like a champ with no cleaning and no re-lube the entire week.
The ewl30 is a bit thicker than standard ewl and stays put a bit better. Will never use anything else......unless sully shows me something better ;) |
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All of my firearms (and reloading press, and damned near anything else that needs grease) get Magnalube. Good corrosion resistance, excellent lubricity, and cheap.
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